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Opinions on switch barrel

Tugboater

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 6, 2014
89
89
Out in the brush eastern wa.
I'm going to send my rig in for a new 243 barrel and while its there I though I might get a short 22-250 barrel as well. I'm thinking a 20" barrel for the 22-250 for hunting yotes. What do you guys think about switch barrels? Is that to short of a barrel for a 22-250?

Thanks in advance
Bob
 
I have a Win M70 and have 3 barrels for it. 2 - .243 AI barrels, one being a fire forming barrel and the other is a 6mmbr. I like being able to switch barrels and shoot something different.

As for the .22-250, you might want to go to a 24" barrel with a longer shank. that way, when the throat gets worn you could have it re chambered.
 
I'm a switch barrel guy. (Savage) The utility of changing calibers is great. I also have alot of experience with the 22-250. IMHO the 20" would be a mistake. The 22-250 can be loaded to perform like the .243 if you use the heavy 80g bullets. My 26" 8 twist 22-250 barrel had the 80g Amax's moving 3200 FPS which easily surpassed what you could get out of the 87g .243 rounds and equalled the 100 grainers. Once you shorten up the barrel you loose alot of what the 22-250 has to offer which is speed. There is alot of powder pushing a small bullet so you need all the barrel you can get. Minimum for me in 22-250 would be 24". The .243 suffers the same problem with short barrels in that you can't get max velocity with the small bore and big case capacity. The .243 is a superb varmint caliber so adding a 22-250 barrel would be kind of redunant IMO. Make your second barrel a .260 Reminton. I have a 20" .260 Remington barrel which is shooting the 140g Amax's to 2720 with hand loads. The 107g bullets I get to 3400 which is flat ass haulin and one wicked long range yote round. This combo would be much more versitile.
 
I also think a 20" bbl for 22-250 is probably too short.

I also have some switch barrel guns set up.
If you want to barrel up a 22-250, do it.. Why not?
The 22-250 is fun to shoot in light weight class pills too.
 
Switch barrels work great, especially on Remington's and clones. Have it headspace once and swap as much as you want with just a barrel vise and action wrench, no setting headspace like you have to do every time with a savage.

One thing I do recommend for a switch barrel is if it has a recoil lug that not built into the action, have it pinned. It makes it much easier when switching barrels because you don't have to align the lug every time.

I agree with what the others said about 22-250 being so close to 243. If anything I'd have a fast twist 243 barrel done for heavies and a slow twists done for light bullets. That way you have one less set of dies and use the same brass too but you still have a second barrel for varmints so you aren't burning up your target barrel more than you have to.
 
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I like having switch barrel rifles (and Glocks), but it is NOT like having 2 rifles in my opinion.

I can swap a barrel from start to finish in about 10 minutes without rushing but nonetheless, I don't do it nearly as much as I thought I might. Guess I'm just lazy.
 
Thanks a bunch guys for the help. I'm going to stick with the good old 243 finished at 24 to 25". I'm just making this harder than it has to be! I was looking for something short to put a Thunderbeast 30ps on and not have the whole rig super long. I'm going to hunt with this rig so... It will work!
 
If you want something short and handy I'd buy a R700 AAC-SD 20" or 16.5" version for less than you will spend for a second barrel. If it's for hunting and critter control you don't need a match grade barrel on a custom rifle. It's cool but lots of shit gets knocked down with factory rifles.
 
If you want something short and handy I'd buy a R700 AAC-SD 20" or 16.5" version for less than you will spend for a second barrel. If it's for hunting and critter control you don't need a match grade barrel on a custom rifle. It's cool but lots of shit gets knocked down with factory rifles.
Best suggestion for your needs.