Call Fritz @ Black Canyon Customs
- Thread starter Islas82
- Start date
Pivoting or solid bolt handle with that swept one?
Curtis Axiom short action 6.5PRC in an AT-X AICS. Pretty snappy, not great for PRS.
That's way too many thumbholes, you should sell me one instead :,)
53 in/lb as per printed instructions included with the AT-X AICS chassis.
Hey guys, I have a post 14 AX AICS and I am looking for a short arca rail that is designed for the 14 slot extended palm/hand guard. I know that sawtooth makes one for the 11 slot but I was wondering if anybody knew of one that would be compatible with the 14 slot for the long action configuration.
BAX Accuracy International Plate
Explore the AI BAX Plate from RRS. Engineered for precision alignment, it offers a robust, reliable mounting solution for your advanced outdoor equipment.
rrssoar.com I think this is what you are asking about, not sure though.
Got a couple, FuAX and fake at. Badger 2013s, 6.5prc 
2013 6.5creed, there's 4 other barrels for it in 6-6.5creed
2013 6.5creed, there's 4 other barrels for it in 6-6.5creed
Is the panels green on the inside or are they black as well?
Skins were black.
Awesome. Bought a used ai aics chassis 1.5 legacy which is black on the outside but the od green on the inside of the panels so i guess they are painted. Need to remove the black paint somehow, its pretty stuck atm.
Blast cabinet with aluminum oxide. Or MEK or paint stripper.
Thanks. What is MEK?
It is also known as methyl ethyl ketone (MEK)
2-Butanone is a manufactured chemical but it is also present in the environment from natural sources. It is a colorless liquid with a sharp, sweet odor. 2-Butanone is produced in large quantities. Nearly half of its use is in paints and other coatings because it will quickly evaporate into the air and it dissolves many substances.
2-Butanone is a manufactured chemical but it is also present in the environment from natural sources. It is a colorless liquid with a sharp, sweet odor. 2-Butanone is produced in large quantities. Nearly half of its use is in paints and other coatings because it will quickly evaporate into the air and it dissolves many substances.
Would it not harm the panels with the blasting ?
I'd be more worried about a paint solvent melting plastic.
Not sure if the cost of all the hardware on this thing still qualifies as “poor”, but… 
New 30 inch Brux heavy varmint 1-10 twist for one of my thousand yard rifles by my favorite PWS 2112.
Previous barrel was 23.5 inches
Previous barrel was 23.5 inches
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Not sure if the cost of all the hardware on this thing still qualifies as “poor”, but…
View attachment 8367739
Ken- is that a Barrett BORS? Is it operable?
Hey, Al. Yup, it’s a Barrett BORS on a S&B 5-25x56 PMII. Just got the setup in hand very recently. The BORS turns on and cycles through the menu options fully, from what limited time I have spent fiddling with the unit so far. Reading through the operations manual now before giving the BORS a test run (hopefully soon).
Need more pictures of that rifle, sooo nice
Static function test of the BORS menu options, including selection and zero of cartridge, and spinning the elevation dial post “zero cartridge”, indicates the unit is fully operational. Will look forward to seeing how the unit holds up on the range.
Which magazines are you using with this? Also, what did you do about the trigger hanger? Thanks.
AIAW magazine. Like the ATX magazine, but without the small lip at the top front.
Trigger hangar fits just fine. But I did remove the rear magazine guide bracket. Runs fine without it.
I like the MKMachining grip, and added a self-made thumb rest and rear bag rider.
Here’s this R700 LA in an AICS life cycle, so far.
Originaly built in 2007 by a local gun plumber on an E prefix action with a PTG bolt he had lying around for use in unofficial F class matches on Quantico’s Range 4.
It was in green AICS 1.5 I bought new for under $600 from Midway, probably, and wore an 8.5-25X50 Mk IV on an BO base, rings and had an FTE brake.
All the pictures of this version are on a hard drive somewhere. Shot 208 Hornady AMAX over RL22 and 155 Scenars over IMR 4895. Barrel lasted 1800 rounds.
For the next version I had a PWS 2112 install another barrel and shit can the PTG bolt for a Rem LA bolt. This barrel is 23.5in
I used it for matches on Range 4 still with the Mk IV
Then I scored a used Gen 2 Razor for it
And hit the milk jug cold bore at 1K. A hit is a hit.
With 208 ELDMs over RL17
Then came a surplus Mk13 AICS 2.0
And a NF 35X ATACR and I found some green skins
This barrel lasted 1800 rounds so it currently wears the 30in 10 twist Brux by the same PWS 2112
Same reamer by the same dude with head space within .001 of the last barrel.
The additional 6.5in added quite a bit of velocity for the same 208 Berger over RL17 load.
I think I need to back it down.
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Bolt handle broke off of it due to poor brazing from PTG. Should have been TIG welded to begin with. This is why I referred to the original builder as a gun plumber.
Before it broke, the handle was also improperly timed for primary extraction- mostly ejected the cases back on to the magazine follower.
I hated it.
But this is a thread about AICSs right? So what happened to the LA 1.5 AICS?
I put black skins on it and sold it to another Range 4 guy. The green skins go sold to a guy who “liked” my previous post.
The Range 4 guy decided he wanted an AICS 2.0 so I converted his 1.5 to a 2.0 because I had all the parts.
Howzat done? First remove the skins.
Use MAPP gas to heat the reciver/butt skeleton joint until it smokes and smells like burning hair. Drive out both 8mm pins with a punch.
Drive the butt skeleton off the receiver section with a block of wood
Remove all the old epoxy from the joint and install the hinge and folding butt skeleton. Drive the pins back into the joint.
The dimensions have not changed from the AICS to the new style AT AICS, so either kind will work. The only difference is the hinge.
Now you have to figure out where the latching mechanism goes into the receiver section of the chassis.
Use a M5-08 screw that the head has been cut off of and pointed to locate the spot for the male portion of the latch by screwing in into the flooding butt skeleton female latch screw hole.
You’ll need the male and female latches for this.
Center punch and use a drill press
Thread
Install male latch
Install female portion into butt skeleton and test
Put the skins back on and make sure you haven’t ruined your chassis by drilling holes in the wrong place.
And you’re done
I put black skins on it and sold it to another Range 4 guy. The green skins go sold to a guy who “liked” my previous post.
The Range 4 guy decided he wanted an AICS 2.0 so I converted his 1.5 to a 2.0 because I had all the parts.
Howzat done? First remove the skins.
Use MAPP gas to heat the reciver/butt skeleton joint until it smokes and smells like burning hair. Drive out both 8mm pins with a punch.
Drive the butt skeleton off the receiver section with a block of wood
Remove all the old epoxy from the joint and install the hinge and folding butt skeleton. Drive the pins back into the joint.
The dimensions have not changed from the AICS to the new style AT AICS, so either kind will work. The only difference is the hinge.
Now you have to figure out where the latching mechanism goes into the receiver section of the chassis.
Use a M5-08 screw that the head has been cut off of and pointed to locate the spot for the male portion of the latch by screwing in into the flooding butt skeleton female latch screw hole.
You’ll need the male and female latches for this.
Center punch and use a drill press
Thread
Install male latch
Install female portion into butt skeleton and test
Put the skins back on and make sure you haven’t ruined your chassis by drilling holes in the wrong place.
And you’re done
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So nice, cant get enough of these chassis! Its just something special about them.Here’s this R700 LA in an AICS life cycle, so far.
Originaly built in 2007 by a local gun plumber on an E prefix action with a PTG bolt he had lying around for use in unofficial F class matches on Quantico’s Range 4.
It was in green AICS 1.5 I bought new for under $600 from Midway, probably, and wore an 8.5-25X50 Mk IV on an BO base, rings and had an FTE brake.
All the pictures of this version are on a hard drive somewhere. Shot 208 Hornady AMAX over RL22 and 155 Scenars over IMR 4895. Barrel lasted 1800 rounds.
For the next version I had a PWS 2112 install another barrel and shit can the PTG bolt for a Rem LA bolt. This barrel is 23.5in
View attachment 8375348
I used it for matches on Range 4 still with the Mk IV
View attachment 8375349
Then I scored a used Gen 2 Razor for it
View attachment 8375351
And hit the milk jug cold bore at 1K. A hit is a hit.
View attachment 8375350
With 208 ELDMs over RL17
View attachment 8375359
Then came a surplus Mk13 AICS 2.0
View attachment 8375355
And a NF 35X ATACR and I found some green skins
View attachment 8375356
This barrel lasted 1800 rounds so it currently wears the 30in 10 twist Brux by the same PWS 2112
View attachment 8375357
Same reamer by the same dude with head space within .001 of the last barrel.
The additional 6.5in added quite a bit of velocity for the same 208 Berger over RL17 load.
View attachment 8375358
I think I need to back it down.
Hi guys.
Posting this in here as it's not a proper one
It's actually a .243 Remington 700 action and barrel on an AI chassis. Timney 2 stage trigger. Wildcat predator 12 mod. Alas B10 bipod.It's topped with a Hik Alpex A50E day/night scope and Weaver mounts.
I rattle canned it myself some 18 years ago. Still going strong.
Posting this in here as it's not a proper one
I rattle canned it myself some 18 years ago. Still going strong.
so, let me get this straight.
you can use an AT chassis and then get the "old school" AICS/AW thumbhole folding skins and everything lines up GTG?
you can use an AT chassis and then get the "old school" AICS/AW thumbhole folding skins and everything lines up GTG?
Yes. And no. The chassis frame itself is mostly exactly the same. However, there are some slight differences in two main areas, the bolt handle and front sling attachment points, that will either require modifying the legacy skins (different cutout for the AT’s flush cups vs AW and legacy AICS HK style sling hook attachment plates) or will just look a bit funky (legacy AICS had a square shroud surrounding the bolt handle area, which means the legacy skins have a big square cutout right there for them).
Check this out:
AT rifle vandalism part 1
Strip AT rifle, remove all flush cups because we don’t need no stinkin’ flush cups, mark cuts for skins with tape.
View attachment 8352844
View attachment 8352831
Cut skins as necessary with razor saw
View attachment 8352832
View attachment 8352833
Test fit
View attachment 8352834
View attachment 8352835
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Hey! One of the skin screws won’t pass through the chassis fore end! Use a 1/8” transfer punch to mark it.
View attachment 8352837
And drill a 15/64 hole because that’s what all the other holes in the chassis are.
View attachment 8352838
To be continued…
What about the barrel clamp bolt access hole?
Stop whining.
Use a 17/32 transfer punch and your AT fore skins to mark it and then drill a hole.
Start with a small bit and work your way up to 17/32.
Don’t be an idiot. Drill a 1/8 hole from the inside and then work up to the final size from the outside in. Chamfer the hole from the outside.
Dremels are for pussies who vape strawberry flavored shit.
View attachment 8352852
View attachment 8352854
Real men smoke Pall Malls and have COPD by age 50.
Check your work, if a 4mm allen socket fits, you’re golden.
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Holy cow, this is awesome! Keep posting updates
I painted my shit with WWII OD Green DuraCoat a couple days ago since the weather is less sucky.
Done.
Obviously this is an Accuracy International AT rifle with AE Mk1 skins but this also works on AT AICS chassis with AICS skins for R700s.
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