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Suppressors Pre-treatment for baffles

S

SniperGod

Banhammer
Banned !
Minuteman
Feb 6, 2019
33
10
Has any one tried a pre-treatment on their baffels for easier cleaning?

So far I have tried just plain hopps gun oil. It was burned off almost immediately.

The next thing I tried was anti-seize. Do not do this. It is very foul smelling and smokes. I can only assume it has to be toxic. The anti-seize baked on and was hell to clean.

Next was silicon based oil. Dot 5 I believe. This I read was supposed to have microscopic particles that would soak into the metal allowing nothing to stick to it. Well it just baked on as well and is even harder to clean.
So for nothing works. It only makes the problem worse.

I'm thinking about trying a penetrate oil and then maybe 20w50. What do you guys think?
 
What kind of suppressors are you trying this on? I wouldn't recommend putting anything in a centerfire rifle can. Besides I don't think anything would hold up to the heat generated. I've used Lithium grease in a .22 can, just for some added noise reduction, not an attempt to pre-treat.
 
if that is a non serviceable center fire rifle can why are you trying to clean the baffles? Just shoot it
 
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If the baffles are steel and so is the sleeve I would ultrasonic the parts then as long as nothing is cerakoted.
 
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SniperGod said:
This would obviously be on a serviceable silencer.
Click to expand...
You have been asked a question and given a pretty vague answer. If you want help the more details the better . You are not doing yourself or anyone else a favor by being vague.
Serviceable or not what are you shooting through it?
I personally have had amazing results with silicone in 22lr suppressors. The fact you have not tells me you are shooting center fire, and rifle at that. Silicone can handle temps to just below 700 degrees F. Shooting 22lr rapid fire through a 22lr can (big can would be even colder) I can not get my cans to get to even 350 degrees. Even on a hot day. 22lr just doesn't have much energy.
Shooting 30rds 9mm in about 7 sec and my Hybrid can doesn't even get to 400 degrees.
But 30rds of 223 in 10 sec will get many suppressors pushing 800 degrees, which is starting to exceede titanium's safe working temp.
Silicone oil on 22lr baffles is the cats meow. On a center fire rifle I can see it getting burnt/melted.
There is a product that is absolutely amazing at removing carbon. Due to unknown metallurgy reactions some people have a shit fit if you mention it around here. Others have had excellent results. No one has had any known bad effects, some just like to be arm chair quarter backs.

CLR
 
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2ndamendfan said:
You have been asked a question and given a pretty vague answer. If you want help the more details the better . You are not doing yourself or anyone else a favor by being vague.
Serviceable or not what are you shooting through it?
I personally have had amazing results with silicone in 22lr suppressors. The fact you have not tells me you are shooting center fire, and rifle at that. Silicone can handle temps to just below 700 degrees F. Shooting 22lr rapid fire through a 22lr can (big can would be even colder) I can not get my cans to get to even 350 degrees. Even on a hot day. 22lr just doesn't have much energy.
Shooting 30rds 9mm in about 7 sec and my Hybrid can doesn't even get to 400 degrees.
But 30rds of 223 in 10 sec will get many suppressors pushing 800 degrees, which is starting to exceede titanium's safe working temp.
Silicone oil on 22lr baffles is the cats meow. On a center fire rifle I can see it getting burnt/melted.
There is a product that is absolutely amazing at removing carbon. Due to unknown metallurgy reactions some people have a shit fit if you mention it around here. Others have had excellent results. No one has had any known bad effects, some just like to be arm chair quarter backs.

CLR
Click to expand...
My Apologies you are correct. This is a 45 caliber Silencer CO octane that I shoot 9mm but mostly subsonic 300 blkout. I also have a .22 can that I used dot 5 on and it is next to be cleaned. Maybe the biggest problem I'm having is that I am waiting way too long in between cleaning sessions.
 
The slickest coating I have encountered is TB41. It is designed for friction reduction but makes cleaning carbon very easy. It might be overkill for this application though.
 
I’m using a SUREFIRE 7.62 RC2 can. I apply FIREClean liberally to the muzzle brake. The QD amount attaches & detaches like a dream. I clean after each use & this strategy seems to work really well as I clean it after each range session.
 
Pretreatment only really works on cans that do not get very hot. Silicone and DEXRON III work the best for 22 lr cans. Lead does not stick, carbon comes out easily. Pistol cans need cleaning if you run lots of subsonic through them, but that is for the carbon. If you use plated bullets (no exposed lead at the base and run your NON 22lr cans with supersonic ammo, then you don't need to clean them.

biffj is absolutely correct.
 
1551030672430.png


1 part CLR Cleaner, 3 or 4 parts water, in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Once the parts are rinsed clean and dry, hose them down with Weld Kleen, let them sit and drip dry.

Re-assemble and go shoot. If you put the can back together with wet Weld Kleen on the baffles, dB's go down ;)

DO NOT put any aluminum/titanium parts in the ultrasonic cleaner and DO NOT put any blued parts in CLR solution.

DO Clean aluminum/titanium/blued parts with brake cleaner/rag/brush. DO spray Weld Kleen in interior of clean suppressor, aluminum OK.

Let me know how it works out. You can buy a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight for $60.00 or $70.00 to get started.
 
Stainless steel pins and a tumbler with detergent. This is safe for steel and titanium baffles, do not do this with aluminum baffles. Tumble for an hour or two. Whatever remains is fine, reassemble the can and get it dirty again. You do not need to get it spotless, for 22lr just knock out the lead and carbon and put it back together.

Only bother cleaning 22lr cans. Centerfire Rifle is good to go as is, no cleaning. Pistol cans you can wipe the carbon every now and then with any gun solvent, doesn’t matter in the long run.

Pre-treatment is a waste of time. Anything you apply will be vaporized from heat and pressure. Do you want to be breathing in DOT brake fluid while you shoot?

Edit: just saw OP was banned. Whatever, point above still stands for anyone visiting this thread and questioning pre-treating baffles.
 
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2ndamendfan said:
You have been asked a question and given a pretty vague answer. If you want help the more details the better . You are not doing yourself or anyone else a favor by being vague.
Serviceable or not what are you shooting through it?
I personally have had amazing results with silicone in 22lr suppressors. The fact you have not tells me you are shooting center fire, and rifle at that. Silicone can handle temps to just below 700 degrees F. Shooting 22lr rapid fire through a 22lr can (big can would be even colder) I can not get my cans to get to even 350 degrees. Even on a hot day. 22lr just doesn't have much energy.
Shooting 30rds 9mm in about 7 sec and my Hybrid can doesn't even get to 400 degrees.
But 30rds of 223 in 10 sec will get many suppressors pushing 800 degrees, which is starting to exceede titanium's safe working temp.
Silicone oil on 22lr baffles is the cats meow. On a center fire rifle I can see it getting burnt/melted.
There is a product that is absolutely amazing at removing carbon. Due to unknown metallurgy reactions some people have a shit fit if you mention it around here. Others have had excellent results. No one has had any known bad effects, some just like to be arm chair quarter backs.

CLR
Click to expand...

Do you have to re-treat your baffles periodically? In other words, after several shooting sessions and cleaning afterwards have you felt the need to re-treat the baffles with silicone oil?
 
So how long should I let the baffles soak in silicone oil after heating them in the oven? I'm thinking of taking them out as soon as the cool.
 
I suppose one could use on of the spray on anti-spatter treatments but the stuff we use at my shop is mostly a concoction of Methlyene Chloride and something sticky like casein or lanioin. Might increase the cleaning time between shooting but could decrease the time of the shooter on the planet!
 
Longshot231 said:
He also told me that instead of using tap water in the US cleaner, he used distilled water and it really made a difference.
Click to expand...

That makes sense. No salts or minerals in it to interact with whatever cleaner your using with the water.

It is easiest to clean the can if you do it right after using it. While everything is still soft.
 
nikonNUT said:
I suppose one could use on of the spray on anti-spatter treatments but the stuff we use at my shop is mostly a concoction of Methlyene Chloride and something sticky like casein or lanioin. Might increase the cleaning time between shooting but could decrease the time of the shooter on the planet!
Click to expand...

I don’t remember this hobart stuff being that caustic. Aside from that I use my brain 🧠(what little there is), and spray them outside wearing long sleeve shirt, rubber gloves, glasses and a respirator.....

A6B23C24-DD60-4A49-BDD1-6E4E67139977.jpeg


66909163-CE0F-417E-8C9A-C9562D86FD7C.jpeg
 
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I had horrible experience with DOT 5 in a 9mm can. Smoked and smelled horrendous. For rimfire cans I don't pretreat SS baffles. But I always pretreat AL baffles with silicone grease, specifically dielectric grease. It's still pliable and can be wiped off with paper towels after 1000 rounds. I doubt an oil would still be around that long, but haven't tried after the 9mm experience.
 
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CountryShooter said:
I had horrible experience with DOT 5 in a 9mm can. Smoked and smelled horrendous. For rimfire cans I don't pretreat SS baffles. But I always pretreat AL baffles with silicone grease, specifically dielectric grease. It's still pliable and can be wiped off with paper towels after 1000 rounds. I doubt an oil would still be around that long, but haven't tried after the 9mm experience.
Click to expand...

I haven't tried the silicone oil on my 9mm and 45 can. The baffles are titanium. So I just run them through the tumbler with citric acid, dawn and steel chips. Sometimes, it take a couple sessions in the tumbler but everything comes out looking like new.

I got a QB in 45 ACP with aluminum baffles. The aforementioned cleaning method won't work with aluminum. Hence the search for the perfect pre-treatment.
 
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Silencer Cleaning

Read this first! The following content is for information only. Make sure you follow the service and maintenance suggestions by your silencer manufacturer before trying any of these techniques...
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