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PRS Build

GoatLD259

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 23, 2020
196
45
United States
Good Evening

I recently took an interest to PRS after a friend of mine showed me a few things with precision rifles, and shortly after was having me hit targets at 600, and 800 yards, right away. I am looking to get into it and start competing. I already compete USPSA and would like to get in the PRS game now. Through some research and scouring the message boards here, for a build this is what I have in mind for a build.

ACC chassis
Impact precision action
Trigger Tech diamond.

Am still deciding for a scope and barrel. As for caliber I am leaning towards 6.5 CM. However have heard good things about 6 dasher.
Also, can someone point me a good thread for MRADs? Through another post on this site, there is a good thread concerning MRAD here on the Bolt-action rifles sub-forum.

Thank you for any help.

Goat
 
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Ok. I was leaning towards 6.5 CM because of availability. As far as reloading, to be competitive, is it something that is necessary?

What are some recommendations for a scope and barrel length?

Thank you!

Goat
 
Barrel length 26"-28"
Scope is a personal preference
Vortex gen ll
Leupold mark 5
S&b
Zco
Kahlas
All depends on what you want to spend
 
My first prs build was a 6 dasher. I had never reloaded at all so it was a learning experience. Went with a tl3 in a ACC chassis and used the mdt br mags, never had a issue with feeding. However I felt like I spent up a lot of rounds just feeling things out and finding a load I would settle on. Lots of trial and error, so that’s something to think about if you aren’t currently reloading for anything.
 
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Go with a 6 Creedmoor instead of a 6.5. As soon as you get into it you'll learn everyone is using 6mm and for good reason. 6mm Creedmoor is an awesome cartridge and has very good ammo availability. If you are getting an Impact Action you might as well get a Stuteville barrel to put on it. Just get one of his M24 contour 26" 6 Creedmoor barrels and you will not regret it.
 
Where are you located?

If you are shooting mostly shorter range matches <900yds and are even the slightest bit interested in reloading.....go straight to 6BR. You can pretty much fill the cartridge with literally dogshit and it will be sub 1/2moa and single digit SD. Recoil is the lightest out there......so you will be able to see impacts.....even from terrible positions. Barrel life it awesome too......no need to worry about a hotrod 6creed going tits up when you are just getting comfortable with it.

The dasher is good too, since Alpha Munitions solved the BS forming shenanigans that soured a lot of dasher opinion at first.......mine included.

I think its a toss up between the two really.....some will argue velocity this (dasher) or relaxed shoulder angle better feeding that (BR).

I've never came across a 6BR miss from "not enough velocity". That little guy is dead nuts consistent and stupid accurate. If the shooter is on point......you will take home the gold.

There are better options for longer range and windy matches in the midwest......but unless you are a no shit top ten shooter......you are not going to tell a difference anyway.

Take the above as you wish.......I don't know shit about fuck.....ha.

Ern
 
Ok. I was leaning towards 6.5 CM because of availability. As far as reloading, to be competitive, is it something that is necessary?

What are some recommendations for a scope and barrel length?

Thank you!

Goat

Depends on your definition of competitive. I’ve never had a club level match where factory ammo would’ve kept me out of the top 10.
 
Good Evening

I recently took an interest to PRS after a friend of mine showed me a few things with precision rifles, and shortly after was having me hit targets at 600, and 800 yards, right away. I am looking to get into it and start competing. I already compete USPSA and would like to get in the PRS game now. Through some research and scouring the message boards here, for a build this is what I have in mind for a build.

ACC chassis
Impact precision action
Trigger Tech diamond.

Am still deciding for a scope and barrel. As for caliber I am leaning towards 6.5 CM. However have heard good things about 6 dasher.
Also, can someone point me a good thread for MRADs? Through another post on this site, there is a good thread concerning MRAD here on the Bolt-action rifles sub-forum.

Thank you for any help.

Goat
I’m not a top tier shooter by any means but I just finished a similar build. I’m really liking the Impact action. I had Hawk Hill make me a 24” M24 barrel in 6.5x47. I put an Area 419 brake on it. First 5 shots of shoot 1 and clean were under half an inch with some 120 Amax loads I had laying around. Shawn makes good stuff. Just a thought. Also get a Spuhr scope mount for whatever scope you end up with. I like the Kahles 624 with the SKMR3 reticle (and I tried a lot of scopes) It keeps me competitive where I shoot.

Don‘t forget you’ll need an action wrench, barrel vise and torque wrench if you are going to install your barrel (and swap to other calibers down the road.) That is one of the advantages of the Impact and other like it. you aren’t locked into the first caliber you try. Start with 6.5 CM and see if you shoot enough to justify the other options. By then, if you shoot a lot, you’ll see what other folks are shooting successfully. You aren’t going to give up a lot of points due to the cartridge in your first year. Lots of folks still shoot the 6.5 CM pretty well. JM2C
 
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Where are you located?

If you are shooting mostly shorter range matches <900yds and are even the slightest bit interested in reloading.....go straight to 6BR. You can pretty much fill the cartridge with literally dogshit and it will be sub 1/2moa and single digit SD. Recoil is the lightest out there......so you will be able to see impacts.....even from terrible positions. Barrel life it awesome too......no need to worry about a hotrod 6creed going tits up when you are just getting comfortable with it.

The dasher is good too, since Alpha Munitions solved the BS forming shenanigans that soured a lot of dasher opinion at first.......mine included.

I think its a toss up between the two really.....some will argue velocity this (dasher) or relaxed shoulder angle better feeding that (BR).

I've never came across a 6BR miss from "not enough velocity". That little guy is dead nuts consistent and stupid accurate. If the shooter is on point......you will take home the gold.

There are better options for longer range and windy matches in the midwest......but unless you are a no shit top ten shooter......you are not going to tell a difference anyway.

Take the above as you wish.......I don't know shit about fuck.....ha.

Ern

Listen to this man!
 
Any interest in going past 1,000 yds? If so you might consider 6mm or 6.5 Creedmoor. Easier to see impacts on steel than 6 Dasher.
 
-26” 6mm Creed prefit from any of the reputable shops.
-Run Prime factory ammo and save your brass
-APA or Area 419 brake
-My personal scope preference is a Leupold Mark 5 but their are many good options.
These items in addition to what you already listed would create a rifle that wouldn’t hold you back in any way.
 
Ok. I was leaning towards 6.5 CM because of availability. As far as reloading, to be competitive, is it something that is necessary?

What are some recommendations for a scope and barrel length?

Thank you!

Goat

6 or 6.5 Creed would be a good place to start. Both will allow you to get a feel for the sport and shooting it and also have factory ammo available, which will work fine for you. I wouldn't recommend getting into any of the shorty calibers where you need mag kits or anything else. Get a solid caliber like the ones above and go shoot. After that barrel is gone then you can see where you want to go from there.

For barrel length, I would recommend 26-28" and as mentioned a heavier contour like M24/40 and a good brake.

What's your budget for a scope? Lots of good options out there.

ETA: Something else you might think about is getting a .308 barrel when you get the other and use that as your practice barrel. Mainly for two reasons. One is barrel life. You don't want to burn out your match barrel practicing. Second is learning to manage recoil and wind. After you can do it with a .308 then going to any 6.5 or 6 makes it feel much easier.
 
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Where are you located?

If you are shooting mostly shorter range matches <900yds and are even the slightest bit interested in reloading.....go straight to 6BR. You can pretty much fill the cartridge with literally dogshit and it will be sub 1/2moa and single digit SD. Recoil is the lightest out there......so you will be able to see impacts.....even from terrible positions. Barrel life it awesome too......no need to worry about a hotrod 6creed going tits up when you are just getting comfortable with it.

The dasher is good too, since Alpha Munitions solved the BS forming shenanigans that soured a lot of dasher opinion at first.......mine included.

I think its a toss up between the two really.....some will argue velocity this (dasher) or relaxed shoulder angle better feeding that (BR).

I've never came across a 6BR miss from "not enough velocity". That little guy is dead nuts consistent and stupid accurate. If the shooter is on point......you will take home the gold.

There are better options for longer range and windy matches in the midwest......but unless you are a no shit top ten shooter......you are not going to tell a difference anyway.

Take the above as you wish.......I don't know shit about fuck.....ha.

Ern

I am located in the midwest and am interested in shooting past 1000 yards. If I do this build I would rather go all the way the first time, to keep buying of new parts to a minimum. So that is why I am curious as to what round to use. So far on this post, good things have been said about 6 BR, 6 CM, 6.5 CM, and 6 dasher. What is your choice for long ranges and windy matches that I may encounter in the midwest?
 
6 or 6.5 Creed would be a good place to start. Both will allow you to get a feel for the sport and shooting it and also have factory ammo available, which will work fine for you. I wouldn't recommend getting into any of the shorty calibers where you need mag kits or anything else. Get a solid caliber like the ones above and go shoot. After that barrel is gone then you can see where you want to go from there.

For barrel length, I would recommend 26-28" and as mentioned a heavier contour like M24/40 and a good brake.

What's your budget for a scope? Lots of good options out there.

ETA: Something else you might think about is getting a .308 barrel when you get the other and use that as your practice barrel. Mainly for two reasons. One is barrel life. You don't want to burn out your match barrel practicing. Second is learning to manage recoil and wind. After you can do it with a .308 then going to any 6.5 or 6 makes it feel much easier.


As far as scopes I am leaning towards going with a scope that has Mils. AS far as a budget for it, I am willing to spend, this is a marathon, not a race. haha
 
Go with a 6 Creedmoor instead of a 6.5. As soon as you get into it you'll learn everyone is using 6mm and for good reason. 6mm Creedmoor is an awesome cartridge and has very good ammo availability. If you are getting an Impact Action you might as well get a Stuteville barrel to put on it. Just get one of his M24 contour 26" 6 Creedmoor barrels and you will not regret it.
Does the 6 CM have less recoil than a 6.5 CM? Shoot flatter? Not as much bullet drop at longer distances?
 
Mils is fine but what is your price range? Will help. What is spending to you might be $1000 or $4000. Need a more specific range to help out.

As for caliber, again get a basic caliber that will allow you to do well in the wind, be affordable to shoot, and will shoot well in matches. The 6 or 6.5 Creed will do this for you. Remember you are getting into the game and won't be burning down the house to get on the podium so not having to worry about the more specific calibers like the Dasher or BRs etc and their idiosyncrasies will do you better to start. And if you stay in it and burn out a barrel then you will see what will work better for you then but now you would be better served with a more standardized cartridge. More shooting and less gear drama will do you better to start in the game.

The 6mm does shoot flatter but in today's matches you have ranges so shooting flat isn't as big of a deal as it was a decade ago. Wind is important and both do well there.
 
I am located in the midwest and am interested in shooting past 1000 yards. If I do this build I would rather go all the way the first time, to keep buying of new parts to a minimum. So that is why I am curious as to what round to use. So far on this post, good things have been said about 6 BR, 6 CM, 6.5 CM, and 6 dasher. What is your choice for long ranges and windy matches that I may encounter in the midwest?

I like your thinking, I assumed your position from your intial post. Already being a competitive shooter in another discipline, you understand the reality of good gear. Nothing turns off a new shooter more than running shit gear and placing dead last at a gimme match.

Take a look at the course of fire for matches you intend on shooting frequently and whether or not they use target hit indicators or someone on glass.

I would still stay 6mm for longer/windy matches. You could use more velocity for that situation for a little benefit......but it will come at the cost of more recoil. A heavy rifle and all the latest coolguy gamer add-ons will help with recoil mitigation.

Depending on match courses of fire......I would go Dasher for longer/wind and stick with BR for everything else......but in truth all the common 6mms are close enough you can throw a dart and pick a winning cartridge.

My favorite is the 6BR......just because of the extreme accuracy it yields. Some will say a boost in velocity will give you a larger error margin. I believe the same can be said about accuracy.

Some will also say get a 308 practice barrel. I think it has some merit.......but if you "practice" a lot.......are you going to brainfart while stressed at a match and hold for 308 instead of your 6mm cartridge......I've done it multiple times.

So I just pick a cartridge with good barrel life, lowest recoil, extreme accuracy potential, and quality reloading components.

If you are worried about feeding, go with the 6xc.......I have a couple shooters running that and we have been quite pleased with feeding, accuracy potential, barrel life, and quality reloading components (Alpha brass and 115 dtacs).

Again, just my worthless opinion.

Ern
 
I am located in the midwest and am interested in shooting past 1000 yards. If I do this build I would rather go all the way the first time, to keep buying of new parts to a minimum. So that is why I am curious as to what round to use. So far on this post, good things have been said about 6 BR, 6 CM, 6.5 CM, and 6 dasher. What is your choice for long ranges and windy matches that I may encounter in the midwest?

As has been said either the 6mm or 6.5 will serve you well.

On a real windy day and at distance the 6.5 will cut the wind a little better than the 6mm.

If you do a hot 6mm it's going to be hard on the barrel life wise. The 6.5 will have an advantage here as well. So something to think about.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
 

.


Is the 6.5 CM easier to spot just because it does not have as nearly much velocity?
Not quite. I’m running 6.5 Creedmoor kinda fast. Pushing a 140 RDF at 2900 FPS, which at 1000yards gives me ~1760 FPS and ~965 ftlbs of energy.
Compare this to a 6 dasher pushing a 109 hybrid at 2950 FPS. You’d have 1660 FPS at 1000yds, and 670 ftlbs of energy.
6.5 Creedmoor is easier to spot impacts due to more energy on target at virtually every range. Of course this is completely velocity and bullet weight dependent. But this is how it typically pans out.
 
Uh, never mind. Not good reading comprehension this morning.
 
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6xc gives you nothing over the Creedmoor in performance.

And if you are messing up .308 wind with 6.5/6 at a match then the cartridge you are shooting doesn’t matter as you are no where near the point it will matter. The game is very mental
 
I am located in the midwest and am interested in shooting past 1000 yards. If I do this build I would rather go all the way the first time, to keep buying of new parts to a minimum. So that is why I am curious as to what round to use. So far on this post, good things have been said about 6 BR, 6 CM, 6.5 CM, and 6 dasher. What is your choice for long ranges and windy matches that I may encounter in the midwest?

There are cartridges with better ballistics and lower wind drift numbers, but if you look at the top PRS shooters in the midwest most all of them are running either 6BR, 6BRA, or 6 Dasher.

The "game" of this sport is positional shooting, being able to shoot accurately from less than stable shooting positions. Then once you can do that, it's being able to see where your bullet went each shot and refine your wind hold to keep your bullet on the center of the target. The smaller cartridges listed above are helpful because they combine lower recoil (perhaps 30% less recoil than a 6.5 Creed) with exceptional accuracy and reasonable barrel life.

The thing you'll need to be prepared for if you select one of those cartridges is the need to reload, the need to fireform brass (6BRA, 6 Dasher unless you use Alpha or Peterson brass), and the potential need to dial in your magazine/feeding with spacer kits for the shorter case and possibly adjusting feed lips on the magazine. Most people have good luck and can run with a spacer kit and no adjustments, but you should have a bit of DIY skills just in case.

I wouldn't sweat the choice too much, since most of your first year is spent learning the positional shooting side of things and that will be the hurdle rather than ballistics vs recoil. You'll also likely go through a barrel as well, so the opportunity to change caliber is always going to be there down the road. If you pushed me for a recommendation I'd say 6BR if you wanted to reload, 6.5 creed if you wanted to run factory ammo.
 
Im in the same boat as OP. I went with a vortex gen 2 FWIW. Liberty optics has some amazing deals on them. Debating If Im going to burn out my tikka in 6.5 or get a custom gun. From what im reading 6.5 creed isnt a big difference from 6mm. But its also fishy that no one is really running the 6.5 competitively right now.
 
6xc gives you nothing over the Creedmoor in performance.

And if you are messing up .308 wind with 6.5/6 at a match then the cartridge you are shooting doesn’t matter as you are no where near the point it will matter. The game is very mental

Mr. O,

I never said I wasn't mental.......ha.

As for the 6xc vs 6creed......they are close enough to call a wash......but based on my experience I'll take the 6xc over 6creed any day. Your mileage may vary.

I mainly threw the XC into the conversation to address the topic of "feeding reliability" from standard mags while being plenty capable of holding its own against ANY of the mentioned cartridges.

BTW why hasn't anyone mentioned the 6GT? Just curious?

More food for thought - Unless you are a tinkerer.....I find that switching cartridges upon seasonal re-barrel is a pretty costly undertaking. I recommend starting out with something that you can "grow into" and not be in a constant state of flux chasing the latest hotness and having this same conversation before EVERY re-barrel.

Any of the cartridges mentioned will be capable of winning in the hands of a good shooter......

Ern - 6BR the cartridge of gentlemen
 
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I almost mentioned the 6GT but figured he would fair better with a more main stream cartridge for his first barrel. Something he could find ammo for as well as ease and choice of components.

A 6mm bullet does not know the difference if it came from a 6BR, 6XC, Dasher or Creedmoor. It knows it's velocity. I think he would be making a mistake going to a more specialized caliber just getting in to the sport and trying to be on the cutting edge. He is new at this sport no matter what he is coming from and he will need to learn it and he needs to spend time shooting and not making/forming brass or hunting for components. His money and time though. Time is better spent on the range.
 
Agreed, range time is much more useful than keyboard time.

Only the original poster truly knows his desires and current skill set. I just run into a lot of talk about start small....get a factory remington, get a 308, get a this or that. In the end this might work for a guy who jerks off to American Sniper and brags to his buddies about his new sniper rifle.....but if they are a passionate shooter who runs with this hobby and stays serious......they are going to offload all that stuff at a loss in relatively short order and buy premium......or battle a serious buzzkill when they get smoked at gimme matches (which may happen anyway with premium gear).

Just a few things I've learned over the years.

If you wanna compete in Formula 1......don't start off buying a Ford Escort.

Ern
 
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Agreed, range time is much more useful than keyboard time.

Only the original poster truly knows his desires and current skill set. I just run into a lot of talk about start small....get a factory remington, get a 308, get a this or that. In the end this might work for a guy who jerks off to American Sniper and brags to his buddies about his new sniper rifle.....if they are a passionate shooter who runs with this hobby and stays serious......they are going to offload all that stuff at a loss in relatively short order and buy premium......or battle a serious buzzkill when they get smoked at gimme matches (which may happen anyway with premium gear).

Just a few things I've learned over the years.

If you wanna compete in Formula 1......don't start off buying a Ford Escort.

Ern

Who said buy a Ford Escort? Never told him to buy a factory rifle or start with cheap gear. He is buying good parts and that is good. He needs to be smart about the caliber as well. He will gain nothing going into the sport going with a BR or similar because the top guys use it. He is not a top guy and won't be anytime in his first barrels life. Just a fact. He will spend more time off the range making it run when if he chose a more mainstream cartridge he would be shooting and getting better at the sport. That is what he needs to worry more about than small differences in ballistics of very similar rounds.

He said in his first post his desires and where he is in his skill set. He needs to spend more time shooting and less at the bench. That is what I meant and not keyboard time.

Just some of the stuff I learned over my years also.
 
I know, I just thought the Escort comment was witty......doesn't happen very often with me....ha.

I think we have given the OP enough info to seek further info on his own and make a decision. If there is one geewhiz cartridge that's all anyone would run....like the 6PPC in benchrest. Clearly this isn't the case.

I throw in the towel......ha.

OP - there is a wealth of very good information here from some real no-shit gentlemen who know their stuff......obviously myself excluded.....ha. Whatever you decide will most likely be very appropriate for your desired outcome.

Welcome to the sport, enjoy, and always be polite......even when you are eating shit or getting a bad call at a match.

Ern
 
Good advice guys! Sorry to hijack. Im going to take this advice and get a cheap chassis for my 6.5 tikka for my first season and burn out the barrel before I spend 3k on the best gear.
 
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Mils is fine but what is your price range? Will help. What is spending to you might be $1000 or $4000. Need a more specific range to help out.

As for caliber, again get a basic caliber that will allow you to do well in the wind, be affordable to shoot, and will shoot well in matches. The 6 or 6.5 Creed will do this for you. Remember you are getting into the game and won't be burning down the house to get on the podium so not having to worry about the more specific calibers like the Dasher or BRs etc and their idiosyncrasies will do you better to start. And if you stay in it and burn out a barrel then you will see what will work better for you then but now you would be better served with a more standardized cartridge. More shooting and less gear drama will do you better to start in the game.

The 6mm does shoot flatter but in today's matches you have ranges so shooting flat isn't as big of a deal as it was a decade ago. Wind is important and both do well there.

I shot my friends Arken EP4 6-24X50 FFP MIls, EPR reticle, with zero stop, when I was shooting. I liked it fine but don't have anything else to compare it to because of lack of experience. It is a decent price at $600 as well. I was also considering a Vortex Strike Eagle, as that has a decent price as well. I have read and been told both these are capable scopes to hit out to a mile. What justifies a price tag on a Leupold Mark 5 costing over $2000? Is it just a name or that much better than a cheaper scopes such as the one I mentioned?

Thank you.

Goat
 
Agreed, range time is much more useful than keyboard time.

Only the original poster truly knows his desires and current skill set. I just run into a lot of talk about start small....get a factory remington, get a 308, get a this or that. In the end this might work for a guy who jerks off to American Sniper and brags to his buddies about his new sniper rifle.....but if they are a passionate shooter who runs with this hobby and stays serious......they are going to offload all that stuff at a loss in relatively short order and buy premium......or battle a serious buzzkill when they get smoked at gimme matches (which may happen anyway with premium gear).

Just a few things I've learned over the years.

If you wanna compete in Formula 1......don't start off buying a Ford Escort.

Ern

I agree with what you are saying. I want to build a rifle that great right away that I can grow into. I don't want to spend money on cheaper parts only to upgrade later. That cost a lot of money, which I should be using for range time and training courses.

That brings on the next question, where are some good training course for PRS? I am in the Midwest, and not afraid to do a little traveling for some top notch training.


Goat
 
I agree with what you are saying. I want to build a rifle that great right away that I can grow into. I don't want to spend money on cheaper parts only to upgrade later. That cost a lot of money, which I should be using for range time and training courses.

That brings on the next question, where are some good training course for PRS? I am in the Midwest, and not afraid to do a little traveling for some top notch training.


Goat

Ive asked many this same question. I just went from a $400 nikon to a 1600 vortex razer gen 2. The best I've found is true tracking and glass quality. The true tracking has been amazing for me. I tested it and it was spot on. So I know that's one more piece that isn't failing me. I couldn't justify 3k on a NF tho.
 
I shot my friends Arken EP4 6-24X50 FFP MIls, EPR reticle, with zero stop, when I was shooting. I liked it fine but don't have anything else to compare it to because of lack of experience. It is a decent price at $600 as well. I was also considering a Vortex Strike Eagle, as that has a decent price as well. I have read and been told both these are capable scopes to hit out to a mile. What justifies a price tag on a Leupold Mark 5 costing over $2000? Is it just a name or that much better than a cheaper scopes such as the one I mentioned?

Thank you.

Goat

This is why I asked you to specify as most saying "spending" would be $2500+ range. It means something different to everyone. Seeing as you said this is a marathon I would recommend holding off and buying something a little better. There is no reason to chase the most recent gucci cartridge and worry about minimal differences in ballistics and spend a lot on a rifle with the best parts and then buy a cheap scope. I would say start at a Gen II Razor and work up. They are about $1600. What you get for more money is reliability and tracking. Imagine you spend all that money on a rifle, ammo, practice, travel, match fee etc and you buy a $400 Arken and take time off work and go to a match and the scope goes down and you are out of the match. Don't skimp on glass. One of the biggest new guy mistakes.

Also no one told you to go to cheaper rifle parts. That was an assumption FNG23 made. The rifle quality doesn't have to do with caliber selection. From your posts you really should go with one of the Creedmoors. Both will be more than enough in ballistics for your first year of matches.
 
Just a thought on glass. I have high end Kahles, Steiner, NF on some of my guns and certainly like them but there are some good mid range scopes that won’t hold you back much in your first year. $1000 to $1500 buys a lot more than it did a few years ago. True tracking and repeatable clicks are important since it is common to click for elevation. I know a lot who hold for wind so a reticle that’s supports that is helpful.

All that said, I just bought an Athlon Ares ETR 4.5-30 X 56 with the APRS1 reticle from Cameraland to try out. They get pretty good reviews for a mid-range scope that is certainly adequate for PRS. There is a recent post on them and the Midas Tac on the hide. Call Doug for a SH deal. If it turns out to be as good as others say, I’ll put it on a build for my son.

In the first year(s) I lost more points to finding targets and running out of time than I ever did because of scopes or cartridge selection. You need good equipment so you know it’s you and not the equipment but you don’t need to get caught in the equipment race like a lot of competitive shooting sports. JA2C.......almost a nickel’s worth now.
 
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I would highly recommend the 6.5 creedmoor for starting since factory ammo is much more available if you aren’t reloading. You can find 6 creed factory ammo, but it is not quite as plentiful and costs more. Plus, you can find the american gunner 6.5 creed ammo for $.70-80/round. If you’re just starting long range, that won’t hold you back. I would also recommend going to local matches and trying out other people’s rifles to find what you like and don’t like if you haven’t done so already. All the 6mm rounds mentioned above will certainly work fine, but if you’re new to the game it’s unlikely you’ll be able to see a significant difference between them and 6.5.
 
This is why I asked you to specify as most saying "spending" would be $2500+ range. It means something different to everyone. Seeing as you said this is a marathon I would recommend holding off and buying something a little better. There is no reason to chase the most recent gucci cartridge and worry about minimal differences in ballistics and spend a lot on a rifle with the best parts and then buy a cheap scope. I would say start at a Gen II Razor and work up. They are about $1600. What you get for more money is reliability and tracking. Imagine you spend all that money on a rifle, ammo, practice, travel, match fee etc and you buy a $400 Arken and take time off work and go to a match and the scope goes down and you are out of the match. Don't skimp on glass. One of the biggest new guy mistakes.

Also no one told you to go to cheaper rifle parts. That was an assumption FNG23 made. The rifle quality doesn't have to do with caliber selection. From your posts you really should go with one of the Creedmoors. Both will be more than enough in ballistics for your first year of matches.

Thank you for the advice. I have been researching and have checked out the Gen II Razor. However, I can not find the $1600 price tag that goes with it.

https://vortexoptics.com/riflescopes/razor-hd-gen-ii.html

These are both over $2,000. But like I said, I am willing to spend if need be.

https://vortexoptics.com/riflescope...-2-e-1-6x24-riflescope.html?vortex_reticle=26

This one is $2000 but is only a 1-6.

Thank you.

Goat
 
I believe if you call liberty optics you can get that lower price. They’re a commercial supporter of the site
 
Thank you for the advice. I have been researching and have checked out the Gen II Razor. However, I can not find the $1600 price tag that goes with it.

https://vortexoptics.com/riflescopes/razor-hd-gen-ii.html

These are both over $2,000. But like I said, I am willing to spend if need be.

https://vortexoptics.com/riflescope...-2-e-1-6x24-riflescope.html?vortex_reticle=26

This one is $2000 but is only a 1-6.

Thank you.

Goat

Those are all MSRP. Not street prices. Give Liberty Optics a call.
 
Everyone, thank you for the advice. Here is what I have so far..

ACC Chassis
Impact Precision Action
Trigger Tech Diamond
Scope- Either an Arken EP4 FFP
or Vortex Gen II 4.5-27x56 FFP (Either go cheap or spend a fortune it seems. :LOL:)
Caliber- I have decided to start out with a 6.5 CM. Due to longer barrel life and ammo availability, this will give me a chance to learn.
Ammo- I am considering shooting 6.5 CM 140 Gr BTHP American Gunner Match.
Rear Bag- Armageddon Gear game changer
Bipod- Harris HBLMS 9-13" with swivel.
Brake- Have not decided on this yet.

When it comes to PRS, does a heavier grain bullet help with reducing recoil as it does with pistols?

Thank you.

Goat
 
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does a heavier grain bullet help with reducing recoil as it does with pistols?
Not sure I understand how accelerating a heavier bullet at the same rate as a lighter one will result in less actual recoil (vice perceived recoil) whether in a rifle or pistol. Physics is physics...mass x acceleration = force
 
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Not sure I understand how accelerating a heavier bullet at the same rate as a lighter one will result in less actual recoil (vice perceived recoil) whether in a rifle or pistol. Physics is physics...mass x acceleration = force

.


And what are you referring to "They don't dial the barrels in" remark from another post?

Goat