Questions on the M1A

aur0ra145

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
May 25, 2012
391
7
35
DFW, TX
Howdy,

I just got an AR-10. It's a great little rifle; but, I want something that's more different from my AR-15's as the ar-10 just feels much more clunky.

So, what about the M1A? Are there any inherent problems with the platform? Is there a scope mount out there that has very good repeatability after removing it and placing it back on?

I'm on the fence about trading the AR-10 and trying to pick up a M1A. Just looking for the ups and downs of the M1A.

Thanks
 
Re: Questions on the M1A


I would highly reccomend the bassett mount.
The bassett machine mount has been off and on at least a dozen times, with No loss in zero.. They make two models, one so you can see the irons also, one you cant.


Ch
 
Re: Questions on the M1A

Sadlak make a very good mount for the M-1A.AR type rifle are lot easier to mount a scope and remove one.Cheap mounts will not work well on a M-1A.The M-1A needs to be glass bedded for max accuracy or mounted in a high tech stock with aluminum block.I have shot an M-1 A for over twenty years.Its a good platform but will need a little more maintenance than an AR Platform.Its harder to find a good smith for the M1-A when you need to do a barrel change or bedding job.Out of the box a Ar will probably shoot a little better.When it come to custom M1-A it all about the skill of the armorer.
Hope this helps.
Regards,Mike
 
Re: Questions on the M1A

I've had both, still have the M1A but when I get some more cash I'm going to do a 260 AR.

Inherent problems would be the op-rod design/receiver geometry/springfield parts.

Op rod design may keep you from running hot loads, I've had functioning problems with hotter 4064 and varget loads that ran great in my AR. Action moving too fast, almost as if it's overgassed, people also talk about bent/broken op rods.

Receiver geometry can get you when you try to mount a scope, you may buy one of the popular ones and have no issues (basset arms sadlak) or you may buy all 3 and still pull your hair out.

Springfield parts like the extractor, ejector springs and trigger pins/springs may fail WAY too early in the life of the weapon. Just Google search about broken trigger pin, extractor flying out, etc etc.

Scope mounting can get you in a number of ways. Mine had a springfield mount when I got it, it was shit so I tossed it for a sadlak. Sadlak holds zero perfectly and can still cowitness irons however it didn't go on straight (receiver geometry). It points to the side and a bit low. Called sadlak, messed with it a bit, have satisfactory zero now but it was definitely *not* the same as with an AR. With an AR you just buy a mount, stick it on and go play. May also have to modify your ejector spring to get it running with a scope mount attached.

Honestly I probably should have kept my 308 AR. It was 100% trouble free and accurate. However I like to tinker so for me it's a whole new challenge (and reason to spend money).
 
Re: Questions on the M1A

I put my Springfield Scout in a Sage stock to avoid the bedding issue.

I feel the main thing to keep in mind is that the M1A is a gas system and the ammo must be appropriate for this machine. As others have stated hot loads are a no-no. Save those for the bolt Rifle. I suspect most op rod failures are do to the wrong powder, in burn rate or charge.

I don't have any great love for Springfield but the platform can be sound - with the properly manufactured parts.

I have a Sadlak mount on order for my 2.5x10 scope. Scope mounts for the M1A's were afterthoughts.

I believe that the biggest thing going against the M1A is that they are out of fashion.

I tend to beat it like a rented mule.
 
Re: Questions on the M1A

It took me a long time to accept the AR platform because I was stuck on M1A's. M1A's are a great weapon but much more complicated than the AR system and much more expensive to accurize.

The M1A was designed to shoot with irons and the ergonomics of the stock. But, Smith, Sadlak, and Bassett over very good mounts that maintain zero and are perfect. I have the Smith and Sadlak mounts and they work perfect. While they are fairly pricey, you pay for what you get. Stay away from Springfield mounts are they are garbage.

As previously mentioned, some of the Springfield parts are prone to early failure. The extractor, ejector and op rod are much weaker than orginal GI parts. You can buy spare parts/replacements as it's wise to have backup parts on hand. I purchased a few bolts from Freds M14 stocks that are cut in half, but have the ejector, extractor, and springs with it for a fraction of the cost and are original GI parts. As far as dealing with Fred's now, it's fairly risky if you'll get the parts or not and he has very bad reviews.

For more information on M1A's and good places for resources, go to http://m14forum.com/forums.php
 
Re: Questions on the M1A

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BCP</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've had both, still have the M1A but when I get some more cash I'm going to do a 260 AR.

Inherent problems would be the op-rod design/receiver geometry/springfield parts.

Op rod design may keep you from running hot loads, I've had functioning problems with hotter 4064 and varget loads that ran great in my AR. Action moving too fast, almost as if it's overgassed, people also talk about bent/broken op rods.

Receiver geometry can get you when you try to mount a scope, you may buy one of the popular ones and have no issues (basset arms sadlak) or you may buy all 3 and still pull your hair out.

Springfield parts like the extractor, ejector springs and trigger pins/springs may fail WAY too early in the life of the weapon. Just Google search about broken trigger pin, extractor flying out, etc etc.

Scope mounting can get you in a number of ways. Mine had a springfield mount when I got it, it was shit so I tossed it for a sadlak. Sadlak holds zero perfectly and can still cowitness irons however it didn't go on straight (receiver geometry). It points to the side and a bit low. Called sadlak, messed with it a bit, have satisfactory zero now but it was definitely *not* the same as with an AR. With an AR you just buy a mount, stick it on and go play. May also have to modify your ejector spring to get it running with a scope mount attached.

Honestly I probably should have kept my 308 AR. It was 100% trouble free and accurate. However I like to tinker so for me it's a whole new challenge (and reason to spend money).

</div></div>


Hey BCP, I may know a fix for you in regards to your hot load shooting. I use my M1A scout squad for black bear and wolves, so naturally I built some pretty hot handloads. now the trick is to get an adjustable gas plug, and an op rod recoil buffer. Brownells has both of them. The gas plug is awesome because you can tune it to give your rifle the perfect amount of recoil gas no matter the load, and just in case, the recoil buffer (in reality just a 1/8 inch thick ring of plastic you slide onto your recoil spring) will prevent the oprod from overtravelling, hitting the action and busting in half.

right now I'm shooting 220 grain Hornady round noses stacked on 42 grains of Varget attaining a velocity ~2380 FPS with around 2700 foot pounds of kinetic energy at the muzzle. what can I say, I'm a sledgehammer kinda guy.

Though I must warn you, when doing load development, shut off your gas system and operate it as a bolt action to prevent any unfortunate destruction, then once you've developed the load, open the adjustable gas plug to maximum, and slowly close it up until the action functions smoothly.
the parts didn't cost much at all, and considering my rifle can now deliver the same amount of firepower at close range as my Marlin 1895 in 45/70... I think it is money well spent.
 
Re: Questions on the M1A

I own a couple 308 ARs, but I shoot a couple different 16" M1As frequently. Just personal preference, but I actually like the M1A better (than the ARs) as an iron-sight only gun. The SA compensator on the socom model works great for quick shooting at multiple targets between 50-200 yards (obviously capable much further, thats just how we play with those). That comp is equivalent to your average thunderclap, however, and mags were $50+ before the retardation. We just shoot bone stock out of the box models, and although we don't shoot for groups, they will put that round wherever you aim it. All in all it's a FUN gun to shoot and easily justifies leaving the cash at the store and having one follow you home
cool.gif


I also think the prices on these will return to normal soon. The only thing I would look for now are 20rd mags if you can find them at semi-reasonable cost