Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

[Adirondack47]

I recently acquired a Remington MLR and am in the process of building it up the way that I want to. I ordered a PWS PRC comp and went to install it tonight but had real trouble getting the factory ported comp off of the rifle. I heated up the muzzle area with a propane torch for several minutes and then gave it then gave it hell with no success whatsoever.

I did this 3 times and had the same result. Anybody got any tips for getting this darn thing off? Im open to any and all suggestions. Thanks in advance

 

[exhogflyer]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

Seems I've read somewhere about having to clamp the barrel in blocks and jaw-wrenching the brake off.I don't think you will save it.

 

[Badshot308]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

Have a look at this thread on the MLR http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2669517&page=1 Most people have managed to get them off. My rifle was one of the first to be released to the market in early 2008 and it's muzzle brake would not come off even with considerable heat. When I rebarrel, then I'll go to an FTE brake.

 

[Adirondack47]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

Thanks for the link. Without having to read through all 20+ pages, do you happen to know where posters discuss the issue im referring to (like betweem pages 15-20 for example)

 

[turbo54]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Adirondack47</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the link. Without having to read through all 20+ pages, do you happen to know where posters discuss the issue im referring to (like betweem pages 15-20 for example) </div></div>

Going from memory, I wanna say fellas were heating the brake to 450°F (measured), finding a phillips screwdriver that fit the holes nicely, and giving the driver a whack with a hammer.

 

[Texar2]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

Use a dremel cut off tool and cut slots (parallel to the bore)almost all the way through to the threads. Then heat and apply pipe wrench. This will decrease your chances of stripping the threads. Works great. I just apply tape to the barrel so I dont scratch it.

 

[lmhans4440]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

I got mine off and saved it. I heated the brake until the locktite smoked off (approx. 450 degrees f) and used two phillips screwdrivers to turn it off. It is torqued to like 75 ft lbs. so you really have to whack it to get it off. I replaced it with one I got from RWS here on the hide. Noticeably less recoil and it doesnt spray dirt when shooting prone anymore.

 

[DP425]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

Also may not be a bad idea to use something like PB Blaster- apply heat and heavily spray- what doesn't smoke off should flow into the threads easily and assist in the effort

 

[Adirondack47]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

Thanks for all the input fella's, its much appreciated. Im gonna give it another go this weekend.

 

[Nimzoblanca]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

Wow, I don't understand all the difficulties mentioned here, mine came off with minimal fuss. Here's what I did:

- Clamped the barrel in a vice, between two blocks of wood (each with a channel cut in them to follow the contour of the barrel). Basically a poor man's barrel vice.

- Heated the brake with a plumber's propane torch. Important: apply flame to the brake only, not the barrel.

- With 2 Phillips head screwdrivers, broke the brake loose. You don't need to whack it with a hammer or gorilla grip it. It should twist off with minimal force. If it doesn't, apply a little more heat with the torch until it breaks loose.

Easy to do. I was amazed at how easy it came off, and I didn't have to torch my barrel to do so.

 

[jagged77]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nimzoblanca</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow, I don't understand all the difficulties mentioned here, mine came off with minimal fuss. Here's what I did:

- Clamped the barrel in a vice, between two blocks of wood (each with a channel cut in them to follow the contour of the barrel). Basically a poor man's barrel vice.

- Heated the brake with a plumber's propane torch. Important: apply flame to the brake only, not the barrel.

- With 2 Phillips head screwdrivers, broke the brake loose. You don't need to whack it with a hammer or gorilla grip it. It should twist off with minimal force. If it doesn't, apply a little more heat with the torch until it breaks loose.

Easy to do. I was amazed at how easy it came off, and I didn't have to torch my barrel to do so. </div></div>

I'm glad you got yours off without much effort. I did pretty much exactly what you described - with two torches. The brake would not budge one bit. I actually bent a couple of good quality philips head drivers. I'm not surprised others are having problems as it seems some are welded on and others can be removed.

Mines at the smiths to machine the fkn thing off, loose an inch off the barrel and install a side ported brake.

 

[HPLLC]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I'm glad you got yours off without much effort. I did pretty much exactly what you described - with two torches. The brake would not budge one bit. I actually bent a couple of good quality philips head drivers. I'm not surprised others are having problems as it seems some are welded on and others can be removed.

Mines at the smiths to machine the fkn thing off, loose an inch off the barrel and install a side ported brake. </div></div>

Sounds like quite an ordeal! Too bad it wasn't easier for you.

 

[turbo54]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

Note: if you heat loctite too much, it gets tight/sticky again. There is a temp window you need to be in for it to stay loose.

 

[exhogflyer]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nimzoblanca</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow, I don't understand all the difficulties mentioned here, mine came off with minimal fuss. Here's what I did:

- Clamped the barrel in a vice, between two blocks of wood (each with a channel cut in them to follow the contour of the barrel). Basically a poor man's barrel vice.

- Heated the brake with a plumber's propane torch. Important: apply flame to the brake only, not the barrel.

- With 2 Phillips head screwdrivers, broke the brake loose. You don't need to whack it with a hammer or gorilla grip it. It should twist off with minimal force. If it doesn't, apply a little more heat with the torch until it breaks loose.

Easy to do. I was amazed at how easy it came off, and I didn't have to torch my barrel to do so. </div></div>

I'm glad you got yours off without much effort. I did pretty much exactly what you described - with two torches. The brake would not budge one bit. I actually bent a couple of good quality philips head drivers. I'm not surprised others are having problems as it seems some are welded on and others can be removed.

<span style="color: #CC0000">Mines at the smiths to machine the fkn thing off, loose an inch off the barrel and install a side ported brake. </div></div></span>
Dear god that barrel is short enuff already!

 

[jagged77]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

Done and dusted now, got a call today saying it was ready so will collect tomorrow. I wanted to remove all of the factory thread and have a new M18x1.5 cut.

Every Rem 700 I've owned has always shot better having been recrowned (not surprisingly), however more to the point they've all shot better having had some length lopped off too - maybe something to do with stiffness perhaps?

This particular R700 shot well at 100 on load developement but struggled to hold MOA past 500. Will see what happens this weekend if the gale force winds subside!

 

[Who Dat]

Re: Remington 338LM MLR owners: Muzzle brake question-

Check out Hired Gun's post alot of us used his directions and we had no problems. I purchased a temp gun for forty bucks and read the temp on the brake while heating it up. Worked like a charm.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2669517&page=14