Gunsmithing Remington 40X action screw torque?

[davere]

I have two 40X rifles that I inherited from my grandfather. One is a triple deuce, the other 22-250. As far as I know, neither rifle is bedded or pillared - they seem to be pretty much as he bought them in the late 60s or early 70s. I haven't pulled the actions, yet, to check the bedding situation though because I'm having trouble finding what torque value to use when I put them back together. I know it should likely be lower torque than my tactical rifle (which is pillar bedded in a Manners T4A), and it's likely very rifle dependent as far as the exact number it will like. But, the only numbers I seem to be finding are for rimfire 40X rifles, and not centerfire. Anyone have some help, here?

Oh, and... the 2oz trigger on the .222 is... spooky... but that's a topic for another day... ha ha

 

[Supersubes]

There’s no difference between the fasteners of a 40x and a standard remington 700 or clone. Really the only issue is applying torque without crushing the wood. I dont think this is a critical issue at all. Id tighten them by feel. Thats the only thing that will tell you how the wood is doing underneath. If you have the torque tools, you can tinker with different values after that.

 

[Yoteslayer50]

On the ones I have had I would torque to 45-50 inch Pounds if it doesn’t have Pillars but just pay attention to the feel you can feel when you start crushing the stock hope this helps good luck

 

[Threadcutter308]

I've always torqued them to 60 inch pounds (for pillar bedded stocks). Non pillar or wood, probably 45-50 (per Yote, above). Just make sure of your action screw length for both front and back. You should have full thread engagement and not have any of either screw sticking up into the raceway or breach. If you do, you'll tear up your bolt when you re-insert it.

 

[davere]

Thanks, gents! I used my FAT wrench to "reverse engineer" the torque on one rifle - the front screw was at about 28, middle and rear screws about 20. That rifle is definitely not bedded in any way. I'll carefully work the torque up on that one and see what happens.

 

[NukeMMC]

Thanks, gents! I used my FAT wrench to "reverse engineer" the torque on one rifle - the front screw was at about 28, middle and rear screws about 20. That rifle is definitely not bedded in any way. I'll carefully work the torque up on that one and see what happens.

With wood-stocked, unbedded rifles, you could drive yourself absolutely stark raving chasing bedding screw torque and the order in which you torque the screws. Old timers who used to shoot smallbore rifles without bedding would spend about a brick of ammo chasing what torque would group best. I did some experimenting with my Schultz and Larsen M62 free rifle trying to figure out what would work best and finally said F-it and put the Marine-Tex to it. Torqued them to 45in-lbs and was met with about 1/2moa.

 

[davere]

finally said F-it and put the Marine-Tex to it. Torqued them to 45in-lbs and was met with about 1/2moa.

My first thought after removing the action from the stock was... "looks like I'm going to learn how to bed an action"... ha ha

 

[Mike Casselton]

Might want to shoot them before you spend time bedding them.
Might not be needed.

For that 222, small rifle primer, 4198 and a 50 or 52gr bullet.
Should be magic if you let it free recoil.

 

[davere]

They'll definitely get shot before anything happens. Thanks for the load suggestion