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Gunsmithing Removing factory muzzle brake

Mad_Mikee

Private
Minuteman
Sep 26, 2011
2
0
48
Calgary, AB, Canada
I have Remington MLR with a factory muzzle brake installed. I'd like to replace it with a gill style brake so I dont eat dirt when shooting prone.

Any suggestions or tips to help with the removal of the factory brake? heat? big pipe wrench?
 
Re: Removing factory muzzle brake

Pipe wrench prolly work but scar the hell outta brake. IMO would not apply heat to it, that could be damaging to bore and barrel. If you can secure barrel in vise and run a punch thru the port holes of brake to hit with hammer in the direction to loosen it should break loose then just screw off by hand.
 
Re: Removing factory muzzle brake

Put it in a vise and stick a punch or a screw driver through the old brake and twist it off. If it needs a little more force, do not smack it with a hammer. Put a cheater bar on whatever you put through it and turn. If you don't care about the old brake, a pipe wrench will do fine.
 
Re: Removing factory muzzle brake

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> punch or a screw driver through the old brake and twist it off </div></div>

This is what I would suggest. ^^^ Above Also, Ive heard that you may need to use a heat gun (high tech blow dryer like real hot) because they use some sort of threadlock or something when they attatch them and you may need the heat to break it free they can be tough to get off.
 
Re: Removing factory muzzle brake

Welcome to the hide Mikee,

Here is the scoop:

I have removed a couple. Remington puts their permanent thread locker on these and it must be melted to get it to go. Put the barrel in a vise to hold it securely. Using a propane torch and using a Raytek temp gun to watch the temperature, heat the brake up to 450-470 degrees. Stick two phillips screws drivers through the holes opposing each other and twist off counter clock wise. It is torqued on to about 75 foot pounds or no more than a lug nut. It will not even bend the little #1 phillips screw drivers. No pounding. No bs. Once it breaks loose it will spin off freely.

If you still have trouble email me and I will walk you through this.
 
Re: Removing factory muzzle brake

Just did mine last week. 470F and a close fitting punch turned by a crescent wrench from the end on with a long extension through the hole in the end of the wrench - it took a bit of muscle.

I was worried about the heat but it's shooting better than ever with the new brake.