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Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

s11033 said:
Thanks a lot for the picture and info Shooter405. And beautiful camo job!

Can anyone tell me what the approximate radius of the Gen 2 handguard is from the center of the bore to the top of the rib that runs along the upper edge of the handguard?

Also, would you guys dissuade me from using a 12"-18" fully enclosed carbon fiber handguard (ie. no cooling slots)? I've never used carbon fiber, so I don't know if it's somehow different from aluminum in terms of its effect on barrel temp. I'm told that cutting cooling slots would weaken the tube significantly, and that it might break if I attach a bipod way out at the end of it.

Thanks again guys,

Steve
Click to expand...
You guys have me wondering...
Why would you want to lighten a long range rifle?? Seems to me (from what I have read) that heavier increases stability and to an small extent reduces recoil. Seems if you want something lighter you would buy a standard field rifle in the caliber of your choice and go with that.
Again, not criticizing, just wondering as I said.

Oh, And I am using 1.5 Inch rings with a 5-25 S&B scope.
 
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FlaShooterG said:
You guys have me wondering...
Why would you want to lighten a long range rifle?? Seems to me (from what I have read) that heavier increases stability and to an small extent reduces recoil. Seems if you want something lighter you would buy a standard field rifle in the caliber of your choice and go with that.
Again, not criticizing, just wondering as I said.

Oh, And I am using 1.5 Inch rings with a 5-25 S&B scope.
Click to expand...
It's funny, when the RPR first came out and for the next couple of years people said "it's too damn heavy for PRS", now the best PRS shooters are running around shooting custom rifles several pounds heavier than an RPR and "free recoiling" their shots.
 
FlaShooterG said:
You guys have me wondering...
Why would you want to lighten a long range rifle?? Seems to me (from what I have read) that heavier increases stability and to an small extent reduces recoil. Seems if you want something lighter you would buy a standard field rifle in the caliber of your choice and go with that.
Again, not criticizing, just wondering as I said.

Oh, And I am using 1.5 Inch rings with a 5-25 S&B scope.
Click to expand...

I only shoot bench or prone so I like a heavier rifle. I’m still using the factory stock and only got the Paper City handguard cause I didn’t like the factory Samson one. My rifle/load likes me to have an average grip, and load the bipod with some pressure from my shoulder only, then allow about a 1/2” max of recoil after firing (most likely for those 190 SMK’s) That seems to produce the best accuracy for me. It’s all about trigger time and figuring out your particular setup.
 
FlaShooterG said:
You guys have me wondering...
Why would you want to lighten a long range rifle?? Seems to me (from what I have read) that heavier increases stability and to an small extent reduces recoil. Seems if you want something lighter you would buy a standard field rifle in the caliber of your choice and go with that.
Again, not criticizing, just wondering as I said.

Oh, And I am using 1.5 Inch rings with a 5-25 S&B scope.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info on the scope rings. For me it's just another odd OCD. I personally don't like to buy modern firearms that I don't feel like I could fight with if I had to, and I think I'd want to shed a couple pounds off this one if feasible without compromising accuracy. It's probably a stupid approach when talking about a precision rifle, but it's just one of those things I haven't gotten over yet...
 
LongRangeLefty said:
^ I went with the 16.5” RPR handguard from Paper City Firearms. You might wanna check it out. It’s both lighter and thinner
Click to expand...

I did see that. It might be an option for me depending on how much I can sell the Gen 2 handguard and stock for. I'll probably just wait till I've received the rifle and then see what needs to happen regarding the scope mounts and handguard. Thanks!
 
Anyone have recent experience with the Jard 8oz RPR trigger?

I’ve been trying to find some recent reviews on them and I haven’t been able to find anything.
 
Total unexpected consequence of a Proof Barrel....

After firing 20 rounds the other day, after the warranty-recommended break in process. Here are the cleaning patches:

From right to left: 2 with Hoppe's #9, 2 more to clean that out, 1 with little bit of Kroll, 1 to clean that out, last one with a light bit of Militec-1 before I put her away in the safe.

So, 6 to clean it, 1 to throw some oil up in it.
IMG_20181229_1315045.jpg


The factory barrel would have had all kinds of blue copper fouling on the Hoppe's patches, tons of carbon, etc...
 
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So I’ve got a question for you guys. We talk a lot about barrel life. Of course there are also differences in opinion on the proper cleaning method/intervals and how that effects barrel life as well. To me, cleaning my action/chamber has become more important and more frequent than my bore. But, how about the life of the bolt/action/receiver? About how many rounds before your action will either become unsafe or begin to lose accuracy? I have 3400 rounds through my factory action/barrel now. I performed the sharpie test on all of my lugs and it passed with flying colors. But how long will that last? Can you keep it going for a lifetime?...
 
LongRangeLefty said:
So I’ve got a question for you guys. We talk a lot about barrel life. Of course there are also differences in opinion on the proper cleaning method/intervals and how that effects barrel life as well. To me, cleaning my action/chamber has become more important and more frequent than my bore. But, how about the life of the bolt/action/receiver? About how many rounds before your action will either become unsafe or begin to lose accuracy? I have 3400 rounds through my factory action/barrel now. I performed the sharpie test on all of my lugs and it passed with flying colors. But how long will that last? Can you keep it going for a lifetime?...
Click to expand...

The only real damage your bolt will endure is when you have a loose primer issue and you'll have a jet of hot gasses escape past the primer and erode a circular area around your firing pin hole.

As far as damage/wear to your receiver/action...

The heat treatment on the action should be somewhere between 45-55 on the Rockwell C which should be plenty durable to stand tens of thousands of rounds.

I base this on my knowledge and experience of being a Colt 1911 armorer and working on those for years and some metallurgy knowledge of knife making, and unicorn feces.
 
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LongRangeLefty said:
So I’ve got a question for you guys. We talk a lot about barrel life. Of course there are also differences in opinion on the proper cleaning method/intervals and how that effects barrel life as well. To me, cleaning my action/chamber has become more important and more frequent than my bore. But, how about the life of the bolt/action/receiver? About how many rounds before your action will either become unsafe or begin to lose accuracy? I have 3400 rounds through my factory action/barrel now. I performed the sharpie test on all of my lugs and it passed with flying colors. But how long will that last? Can you keep it going for a lifetime?...
Click to expand...

Here's an excellent article written by Daniel Lilja of Lilja Barrels. Goes into good technical info on bolt strength.

http://riflebarrels.com/a-look-at-bolt-lug-strength/
 
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Nailing down a load. The Sierra's group better than the Hornady. The bottom two groups consist of H4350 with 39.0 and 40.5 respectively. .614" and .314" respectively. The lower left is a tight group and the one out of the group was my fourth shot I would call a choke. May go with this load to save barrel life. Again no chrony this day. No concerned with speed just accuracy. next step depth test with Sierra 107 and 39.0 gr h4350

20181230_121500.jpg
 
LongRangeLefty said:
I’ve used a few different bipods on my gen one 308. I find the Sinclair tactical or the Harris to be the best. The Sinclair is very steady, and the Harris is well known for its lack of slack. The first thing to go for me was the crappy hard plastic grip, which I replaced with a rubber overmolded Hogue. Next was the handguard. I went with a Paper City for more comfort and better cooling. After that would be the stock. I really like the feel of an XLR. However, there is no substitute for more and more trigger time.
Click to expand...


Ordered the Timney trigger and going to get a magpul gen3 stock. Can’t wait to get them on and see how they feel.

Good grouping, I’ve found that 41 grains works well for me so far. Been using the magnum primers and had my buddy load some with just the “ normal large rifle” primers to see if that changes much.
 
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10ring1 said:
Nailing down a load. The Sierra's group better than the Hornady. The bottom two groups consist of H4350 with 39.0 and 40.5 respectively. .614" and .314" respectively. The lower left is a tight group and the one out of the group was my fourth shot I would call a choke. May go with this load to save barrel life. Again no chrony this day. No concerned with speed just accuracy. next step depth test with Sierra 107 and 39.0 gr h4350

View attachment 6994717
Click to expand...

Sierra groups better for me than anything else I’ve tried even if it was same design and weight
 
Does anyone know the specs on the RPR 308 chamber? Is it a regular SAAMI chamber or is it cut differently? I have a load that shoots lights out in my RPR and I am trying to build up another 308 bolt gun and would like to get a chamber that is close to that in a RPR. I know that I can have a custom reamer made but I don't want to do that. The chamber options that my barrel source has are regular 308, M118LR, and 308 F-TR.
Thanks
 
MK20 said:
Does anyone know the specs on the RPR 308 chamber? Is it a regular SAAMI chamber or is it cut differently? I have a load that shoots lights out in my RPR and I am trying to build up another 308 bolt gun and would like to get a chamber that is close to that in a RPR. I know that I can have a custom reamer made but I don't want to do that. The chamber options that my barrel source has are regular 308, M118LR, and 308 F-TR.
Thanks
Click to expand...

I'm gonna go with its probably a SAAMI chamber because it's a mass production gun. Which one of those chamber choices matches your "load" the closest?

I completely understand the need to use common ammo on multiple platforms. That's precisely why I don't do near-max loads in anything I make.
 
It has been hard to get in touch with my barrel guy because of the holidays so I just figured I would ask the question on here to see if anyone had any specific insight into the RPR chamber. I would expect it to be SAAMI too , but you never know. My load is doing 2650 with a 178gr bullet out of a 20" barrel. This is not a max load. It will shoot into .3 if I do my part so I really want to use this load in my new rifle.
 
MK20 said:
It has been hard to get in touch with my barrel guy because of the holidays so I just figured I would ask the question on here to see if anyone had any specific insight into the RPR chamber. I would expect it to be SAAMI too , but you never know. My load is doing 2650 with a 178gr bullet out of a 20" barrel. This is not a max load. It will shoot into .3 if I do my part so I really want to use this load in my new rifle.
Click to expand...
Doing research I read a review that stated Ruger was cutting the chambers a little on the SAAMI tight side and that is where a lot of their out-of-box accuracy potential was coming from. My personal observation with factory rifles I own, based on the .308 cartridge is that this is true. Inspecting the fired cases, both factory and my personal reloads, is that there is very little case expansion. The Savage .308 I own is on the far loose end of SAAMI, both fully resized and new factory ammo would have noticeable swelling above the web. Your best bet would be to send several fired cases to the folks you are planning to buy the barrel from and let them determine the best chamber reamer.
 
ken4570tc in WY said:
Doing research I read a review that stated Ruger was cutting the chambers a little on the SAAMI tight side and that is where a lot of their out-of-box accuracy potential was coming from. My personal observation with factory rifles I own, based on the .308 cartridge is that this is true. Inspecting the fired cases, both factory and my personal reloads, is that there is very little case expansion. The Savage .308 I own is on the far loose end of SAAMI, both fully resized and new factory ammo would have noticeable swelling above the web. Your best bet would be to send several fired cases to the folks you are planning to buy the barrel from and let them determine the best chamber reamer.
Click to expand...

I noticed that case expansion gig as well. When I compare a fired 6.5 case from my stock Ruger barrel to my Proof, the shoulders of the casings fired from the stock barrel are 3-4 thou wider and take much more effort to resize that those fired through my Proof barrel. But, the Proof fired cases are .002" longer than the stock barrel fired cases which would indicate the headspace on the stock barrel is close to absolute SAAMI minimum. Proof advised me to set the headspace on their barrel at minimum +0.003", which I did.
 
Today was my first load work up session for my RPR 6 Creedmoor.
I have scoured the loads others have had the best results. Used that data to start. Also looked at Hornady data too.
Note these are the first rounds through this rifle with H4350.
First five rounds were fired through the rifle using 41.6 IMR 4831. Group was very good.
I’m not sure if the barrel is settling down as I progress through the loads or if the loads themselves are rising to the top.
I put the COAL, bullet, powder and primer on the target.
I cleaned the barrel in between the loads with the exception of load #4.
Hornady Brass was new. I prepped the case mouth and nothing more.
I will put the loads through a chronograph in the next couple of days.
 

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Netman8718 said:
Today was my first load work up session for my RPR 6 Creedmoor.
I have scoured the loads others have had the best results. Used that data to start. Also looked at Hornady data too.
Note these are the first rounds through this rifle with H4350.
First five rounds were fired through the rifle using 41.6 IMR 4831. Group was very good.
I’m not sure if the barrel is settling down as I progress through the loads or if the loads themselves are rising to the top.
I put the COAL, bullet, powder and primer on the target.
I cleaned the barrel in between the loads with the exception of load #4.
Hornady Brass was new. I prepped the case mouth and nothing more.
I will put the loads through a chronograph in the next couple of days.
Click to expand...
That is pretty sweet that 40.0 and 42.2 give the exact impact location. Is that approx. 0.5 MOA for 5 shots right out of the box? My 6 CM arrives in 2 days:)
 
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I have a RPR 6.5 CM, I was wondering if anyone has a VORN Lynx and know if the RPR will fit open or folded?
 
Brent and netman. Gotta try the load components I show above. H4350 and Sierra 107. I tried the hor108 and gave a load shooting in the .6s but the Sierra's basically cut that in half before a depth test. Worked this combo up across 3 gr using 0.5 gr increments and the Poi is virtually identical. I have never experienced this before. The poi was within 1" across that testing
 
10ring I grabbed three boxes of the Hornady 108 just to get started. I really like the Sierra bullets for steel targets. My plan is to grab up some of the SMK 107’s soon and have them worked up before my first match the end of January.
 
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That MDT looks cool! And the price is much better than the Cadex, very close to a PRS gen 3 stock.

I am wondering whether MDT skeleton stock V5 works the same? Need an adapter?

Ruger should really change their design with that stock.

LongRangeLefty said:
^ Thats badass. I like the MDT as well except you have to buy the bottom rail attachment separate
Click to expand...
 
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10ring1 said:
Brent and netman. Gotta try the load components I show above. H4350 and Sierra 107. I tried the hor108 and gave a load shooting in the .6s but the Sierra's basically cut that in half before a depth test. Worked this combo up across 3 gr using 0.5 gr increments and the Poi is virtually identical. I have never experienced this before. The poi was within 1" across that testing
Click to expand...
Thanks 10ring1, I have H4350 and the 107s ready to go.
 
After turning my gears for a month or so finally pulled the trigger and order a prefit hawk hill barrel in 6.5 creedmoor today. Anyone here have one on their RPR?
 
clcustom1911 said:
What length and profile did you get?
Click to expand...
Marksmen contour, which is hawk hills inbetween Heavy and medium Palma. But closer to the heavier side. Barrel length is 26”, i was fighting 26” or 24” went with 26” I plan to try to do a few
Competition this year just for fun.
 
ironsight1000yard said:
Have to use a Allen rench to adjust? Neh...
Click to expand...

Yeah. I never really worry too much about adjustability on my stocks. I’m the only one who shoots my rifles and I pretty much always keep the same setup. I guess for easy adjustment I’d go with a PRS or Luth AR depending if you want it lighter or heavier. Both are a snap to adjust
 
Has anyone on here done a side by side test with a silencerco omega vs harvester vs factory brake? Possibly looking into one of those for my 6.5 but really don’t need it on there if it’s gonna cause less accuracy. I’ve been reading reviews on suppressed vs none but it seems so up in the air depending on many factors.
 
Who here has taken their bolt and firing pin apart? How hard is it to break down and put back together? Other than the take down tool is anything else needed? Saw LRI has a tool that is pretty pricey.

Need to take mine apart to properly headspace a new barrel.
 
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