I just read that as well. Good article. Another one that mentioned that they really tamed the recoil with that brake. Sweet rig!
Quick psa stocky stocks has an additional 10% off rpr prefits from proof research. I jusr picked up the steel 6.5 creed for $390
Here's another place I just though of to find a good price on RPR Timney triggers:
https://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/timney-ruger-precision-two-stage-straight-trigger/
Has anyone attached the Area419 ARCA rail to their RPR factory hand guard? If so what’s your thoughts?
- Donaldsonville – Palo Alto Rifle and Pistol Club, 1393 Hwy 943 N, Donaldsonville, LA 70346.
Phone: 225-753-7675
Facilities include: Outdoor Pistol (50,100), Outdoor Rifle (100,600)
Range Access: Private Louisiana Gun Club
Web Site: www.paloaltogunclub.com
Email: [email protected]
Click here for a map to the business:
Just did mine today....
AR barrel nut wrench, 3/16 Allen Key (i think) aluminum barrel vise blocks, piece of leather, dead-blow hammer
Once you get it down to the point where you have the barrel in the vise and about to remove barrel nut...
I had a Geissele barrel nut wrench on standby.... But I wanted to try a chinky NcStar wrench because... well, because.
I tried to gently increase torque to remove the barrel nut.... Negative.
I placed the barrel nut wrench parallel to the ground and did 2-3 quick and forceful smacks with the dead-blow hammer about 12" from the nut.... done deal, and the barrel nut loosened up.
Just fitted a 6.5 with a Proof Research 1:8, 24" M24 Contour pre-fit barrel. On the end is an APA Little Bastard.
The green is rattle can. Grip is Anarchy outdoors. Lefty. What can I say? I'm classy like Coors. It's a RPR, not a fancy shmancy AI or Surgeon ??
Consequently, I have a RPR 6.5 Creedmoor barrel with like 550 rounds through it sitting around. LOL
I bet she'll shoot a keg at click all day.
The green is rattle can. Grip is Anarchy outdoors. Lefty. What can I say? I'm classy like Coors. It's a RPR, not a fancy shmancy AI or Surgeon ??
Consequently, I have a RPR 6.5 Creedmoor barrel with like 550 rounds through it sitting around. LOL
I bet she'll shoot a keg at click all day.
Nice! I put my action in the vise. Came off no problem. I do use a long torque wrench though. The gen ones seem to be a little easier for some reason
Thanks be fire to let me know how it shoots. I have narrowed it down to proof and Krieger. Probably make the purchase in early January.
You got it, Buddy. I'm working on the 24th, 25th, and 26th, so I'll take it to my 50y indoor range at work and do the Proof recommend break in (3 shots, clean, 3 shots, clean, 5 shots, clean). I got a shit-ton of Prime 130 ammo, so that'll be my ammo of choice for the next few hundred rounds.
Ont of my SWAT snipers has a rifle put together by Spartan Tactical out of San Jose, CA. It has a Proof Stainless barrel. It's stupid accurate, so I have faith in this barrel.
DAMMIT!! Fuckshitass!!!
I used to shoot Prime 130g through my RPR. Shoots really well.
Want soo bad... I've pretty much settled on the Proof SS barrels from Stockys, but with 1,800 rds on my factory barrel, I don't really need one yet.
Token picture of my bone stock Gen 1:
Second round hit at 1,020 yds the other day, not bad for a factory rig and shifty wind.
When reinstalling the barrel, how do you know it’s tight enough
It’s not about tight or loose. You have to use a caliber specific GO - NO GO gauge set to make sure the head space is correct before reinstalling the barrel nut
Sorry to hear you are having issues. I have a Timney in both my 5.56 and 6.5. Both work smoothly and have a crisp smooth release.
You can apply 60-70 ft-Lbs of torque using a 1/2" drive torque wrench, or....
Give it 3-4 solid wacks with a dead blow hammer like me.
I like to keep it spicy.
Yes correct. Thou shalt use go/no go gauges along with applying a good amount of torque on the barrel nut.
Anyone know if there is profit barrels out there chambered is 25 creedmoor? I did some searching and didn’t come up with anything.
As long as it doesn’t come loose I’m not sure how much it matters. I’ve heard guys say they use 35 ft-lbs, while Ruger has Thor tighten them to god knows what. I torqued mine to 70 ft-lbs and that’s been just fine
I have the original keymod version on mine, not the arca lock system. I love it. It’s easy to change the bipod position, gives me a flat surface so the rifle isn’t trying to roll when laying it on a bag, and is very well made.
Thanks Shooter! I’ll go to their site and look it over. My thought is to use a Arca rail or something similar rather than buy another hand guard. Not sure what to do. Our local range has monthly matches so I will shoot a couple with this rifle before I make any changes.
Just go to Harbor Freight and get a cheap ass torque wrench, its not that accurate but its close enough for barrel nuts.
I have used the anarchy outdoors action wrench... I have used the wheeler AR plastic vise thingie.... I have used a homemade barrel vise and a viper vise. They all have removed barrels off of RPR's. The ones post gen1 have all been tighter than f'ing tight. The last one was a current gen 6cm and I used a torque wrench and a steel fence post ie breaker bar to get that SOB off. It almost turned over the work bench and scared the living shit out of me when it finally broke loose.
I have used the anarchy outdoors action wrench... I have used the wheeler AR plastic vise thingie.... I have used a homemade barrel vise and a viper vise. They all have removed barrels off of RPR's. The ones post gen1 have all been tighter than f'ing tight. The last one was a current gen 6cm and I used a torque wrench and a steel fence post ie breaker bar to get that SOB off. It almost turned over the work bench and scared the living shit out of me when it finally broke loose.
You should not be using a torque wrench to brake things free. That is what ratchets and breaker bars are for.
Yeah the gen ones seem much easier. I actually wonder if they thought they didn’t put them on tight enough. Ever since I’ve done it myself, I’ve torqued the nut to 70 ft-lbs and haven’t had any problems. However, when it was new and tightened at the factory, it actually came loose on its own one day during a long string on a hot day.
Its a cheap harbor freight that no longer works its the longest big SOB I have and works great for that purpose... but ya you shouldnt use a nicely calibrated torque wrench for breaking a bolt
Moon Rocks / Dog Skin Mountain, Nevada: "New To Me" Range Day
(This post is mostly centered around my RPR, but if it is in the wrong Forum Section, please let me know.)
It took hours of exploring but I finally found the correct area in the BLM public land area near my house that everyone apparently shoots at. I was wanting a long shot capable area, and boom! This hillside ranges out past 1,000 yards, with a dead-end jeep trail along the left side for relatively easy target area access.
RPR 6.5 Creedmoor Gen 3 (Stock)
Hornady 140 Grain ELD-Match Factory Loads
537 Yards
12" Steel Plate
10-15 mph Variable Wind
Missed 1st shot high/right with Hornady 4DOF App calculated dope (not blaming it, I was very much guessing on the wind). I'm a Long Range newbie so I'll chalk it up to luck, but based on the hill strike and using the reticle, I adjusted once, and next 9 shots were on the plate! I almost packed up right then...
Instead, I took a break and shot my new Ruger Mark IV 22/45 Tactical. Fun little pistol! It will be an excellent host for the Dead Air Mask, my first can!
(In Jail)
After the interlude I didn't think about it, but the wind had died down to nothing. Went 0/6 while adjusting (fumbling with) the windage. Seventh shot hit, then 23 more straight hits to finish the day!
I am now officially having Long Range fun. Total: 33/40 hits
Pushing out to 750 next time!
(FYI, I partially demolished the 2x4 under the plate with my M1A yesterday. Tried it at 250 yards with iron sights from my "car door rest")
(This post is mostly centered around my RPR, but if it is in the wrong Forum Section, please let me know.)
It took hours of exploring but I finally found the correct area in the BLM public land area near my house that everyone apparently shoots at. I was wanting a long shot capable area, and boom! This hillside ranges out past 1,000 yards, with a dead-end jeep trail along the left side for relatively easy target area access.
RPR 6.5 Creedmoor Gen 3 (Stock)
Hornady 140 Grain ELD-Match Factory Loads
537 Yards
12" Steel Plate
10-15 mph Variable Wind
Missed 1st shot high/right with Hornady 4DOF App calculated dope (not blaming it, I was very much guessing on the wind). I'm a Long Range newbie so I'll chalk it up to luck, but based on the hill strike and using the reticle, I adjusted once, and next 9 shots were on the plate! I almost packed up right then...
Instead, I took a break and shot my new Ruger Mark IV 22/45 Tactical. Fun little pistol! It will be an excellent host for the Dead Air Mask, my first can!
(In Jail) After the interlude I didn't think about it, but the wind had died down to nothing. Went 0/6 while adjusting (fumbling with) the windage. Seventh shot hit, then 23 more straight hits to finish the day!
I am now officially having Long Range fun. Total: 33/40 hits
Pushing out to 750 next time!
(FYI, I partially demolished the 2x4 under the plate with my M1A yesterday. Tried it at 250 yards with iron sights from my "car door rest"
) I purchased a Viper for my barrel swap. Ended up not needing it this time, but it's a bitchin tool and I'll definitely keep it around.
Barrel: Proof Research all-stainless 24", M24 profile, RPR Pre-Fit.
Brake: APA Little Bastard
Installer: Me.
Headspace: set to Minimum +.003" as recommended by Proof.
Just did the 3, clean, 3 clean, 5, clean break in as recommended by Proof Research. The cleaning patches after the final 5 rounds came out looking like:
All ammo fired was 6.5CM Prime 130g factory ammo at 50y indoor range, sitting, from a bipod with just my hand supporting the rear of the stock on a cheap folding table that already collapsed once. Final 5 round "break-in group" looked like:
What method did you use to determine the +.003"?
U
Nice looking group! Thanks for the range report! How did the install go? Anything Advice or anything I should know before getting started? Assembled several AR my self and got the tools. But hear the Barrel Nuts on the rpr can be a pia.
Also, have not pulled the rail yet. Does the nut just use a standard crows foot?
Cut a piece of .003" feeler gauge and used a bit of grease to stick it to the back of the headspace gauge.
You can use an AR wrench on both the handguard nut and the barrel nut. For the barrel nut, I put the barren in a piece of leather and clamped that fucker in a bench vise with aluminum barrel jaws. I put the barrel wrench on, then gave it a couple of hard wacks with a deadblow hammer. My RPR is a Gen1 and I guess the barrel nuts are easier to get off.
Once you get everything apart, it will be apparent.
Yeah, I thought that was what you were going to say.
Did they say why go +.003 over the gauge?
Question/thoughts....... looking to upgrade my 6.5 a little. Was thinking either a better bipod than my Harris LM, possiblely an atlas or something in that range or putting the magpul stock on it. Wondering what others thought to be a better purchase as far as an “upgrade”.
I say the atlas bipod is top notch. There lots of opinions on stocks for me the one that came with the RPR is a little funky to adjust but it is only me shooting my gun so once adjusted it is set in stone. I went with a timney trigger and new bolt handle and knob just for shits and giggles. I am still waiting on papercity handguard to come in of back order.
It’s safe to say I’m new to precision shooting so all said and done range time is the best upgrade ha. I put an anarchy grip and bolt shroud on mine so far. The trigger feels good to me, again new to the game. I’m just not totally happy with the Harris or factory stock. The stock is good off bags but when I shoot using my hand as the rest im not totally comfortable. I’m sure like you said it’s all preference at that point as well.
I'm also new to this, but here's my two cents...
I bought a Magpul bipod on sale and I wasn't overly impressed. I set it aside for use as a spare/loaner. However, I am VERY impressed by the Atlas bipod! Not sure a better one exists currently. Shot with it fully extended last trip out, and it worked great. Bonus functionality for the ADM 170-S QD mount, so you can quickly swap it to other rifles if you have the need.
Model I have: Atlas BT46-LW17
I bought a Magpul bipod on sale and I wasn't overly impressed. I set it aside for use as a spare/loaner. However, I am VERY impressed by the Atlas bipod! Not sure a better one exists currently. Shot with it fully extended last trip out, and it worked great. Bonus functionality for the ADM 170-S QD mount, so you can quickly swap it to other rifles if you have the need.
Model I have: Atlas BT46-LW17
I’ve used a few different bipods on my gen one 308. I find the Sinclair tactical or the Harris to be the best. The Sinclair is very steady, and the Harris is well known for its lack of slack. The first thing to go for me was the crappy hard plastic grip, which I replaced with a rubber overmolded Hogue. Next was the handguard. I went with a Paper City for more comfort and better cooling. After that would be the stock. I really like the feel of an XLR. However, there is no substitute for more and more trigger time.
Hey guys,
I just sold my Savage 10 BA Stealth in 6.5 CM because I have a ridiculous OCD where I hate rifles that don't prevent me from closing the bolt on an empty magazine. I thought I could get over it and warm up to AICS mags, but it didn't work out. So here's to something new!
I found an RPR Gen 2 in 6mm CM on sale at Bud's for $758 shipped. I've been wanting to try out that caliber and it seemed like a very good deal, so I ordered one today. I'm going to be shooting it (at least initially) with my Athlon 6-24x50 FFP scope, 30mm tube. I know, asbestos suit is on... But it's good enough for my purposes since my range is the longest within a 2 hour drive, and it only goes out to 600 yd. I rarely get the opportunity to shoot further so I've found it to be adequate, especially considering that I'm a lowly E-4 on a limited budget. I'll be able to afford a Vortex Viper eventually...
I'm wanting to lighten the rifle up a little where possible, and I think the stock and handguard may present a good opportunity. I don't like the look or 21oz weight of the Ruger stock. Primary Arms is selling the Luth-AR MBA-2 for $35, and I've read that it's solid. This version without the cheek riser and adjustable LOP would bring the weight of the stock down by about 10oz when compared to the factory setup. Is anyone running a 50mm-class scope with the Gen 2 rail and no cheek riser on their Luth-AR stock? I'm thinking I might be able to get a good cheek weld if I can get away with using medium or low rings. I know the 50mm scope, even without a glare shield, will not clear the Gen 2 handguard with low rings, but more on that below.
I'm working on making a small-diameter carbon fiber handguard for the RPR. The OD is currently slightly under 1.6", and I think it will allow even more clearance for the scope than the RPR Gen 3 handguard. I'm hoping this might give me sufficient clearance to use medium or low rings, and not need a cheek riser. This would save me a few bucks and also shave some weight off the front end to balance the decrease at the rear. Worst case I'll just buy the Luth-AR cheek riser, which will cost $45 and add a couple ounces.
Someday I'll be able to afford a Proof barrel and then we'll really be cookin in the weight department. That's not in the cards now, but maybe it will be by the time I've shot out the factory barrel...
Lastly, does anyone have any idea what the RPR's stock and Gen 2 handguard might be worth if I were to list them for sale brand new?
Thanks!
Steve
I just sold my Savage 10 BA Stealth in 6.5 CM because I have a ridiculous OCD where I hate rifles that don't prevent me from closing the bolt on an empty magazine. I thought I could get over it and warm up to AICS mags, but it didn't work out. So here's to something new!
I found an RPR Gen 2 in 6mm CM on sale at Bud's for $758 shipped. I've been wanting to try out that caliber and it seemed like a very good deal, so I ordered one today. I'm going to be shooting it (at least initially) with my Athlon 6-24x50 FFP scope, 30mm tube. I know, asbestos suit is on... But it's good enough for my purposes since my range is the longest within a 2 hour drive, and it only goes out to 600 yd. I rarely get the opportunity to shoot further so I've found it to be adequate, especially considering that I'm a lowly E-4 on a limited budget. I'll be able to afford a Vortex Viper eventually...
I'm wanting to lighten the rifle up a little where possible, and I think the stock and handguard may present a good opportunity. I don't like the look or 21oz weight of the Ruger stock. Primary Arms is selling the Luth-AR MBA-2 for $35, and I've read that it's solid. This version without the cheek riser and adjustable LOP would bring the weight of the stock down by about 10oz when compared to the factory setup. Is anyone running a 50mm-class scope with the Gen 2 rail and no cheek riser on their Luth-AR stock? I'm thinking I might be able to get a good cheek weld if I can get away with using medium or low rings. I know the 50mm scope, even without a glare shield, will not clear the Gen 2 handguard with low rings, but more on that below.
I'm working on making a small-diameter carbon fiber handguard for the RPR. The OD is currently slightly under 1.6", and I think it will allow even more clearance for the scope than the RPR Gen 3 handguard. I'm hoping this might give me sufficient clearance to use medium or low rings, and not need a cheek riser. This would save me a few bucks and also shave some weight off the front end to balance the decrease at the rear. Worst case I'll just buy the Luth-AR cheek riser, which will cost $45 and add a couple ounces.
Someday I'll be able to afford a Proof barrel and then we'll really be cookin in the weight department. That's not in the cards now, but maybe it will be by the time I've shot out the factory barrel...
Lastly, does anyone have any idea what the RPR's stock and Gen 2 handguard might be worth if I were to list them for sale brand new?
Thanks!
Steve
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They did not specify why, but I would think it would be to give a little bit of leeway for cartridges that were slightly larger than the minimum headspace spec.
I can already tell the Proof chamber is of tighter tolerance than the Ruger chamber. The shoulder of the casings fired from the Ruger chamber are .0035" wider in diameter.
I can say I had an AR15 that had a 2” handguard and 50mm objective on the scope and I wasn’t using the cheek riser on the Luth AR stock. However, I also had a flat rail and not the 20 moa the RPR has. I liked the Luth AR stock a lot. I’m not sure what the market is like for the factory RPR gen 2 parts.
Thanks a lot for the reply. I'll go ahead and order that stock and give it a try. What height rings were you using?
I honestly don’t remember. I sold that rifle a couple years ago. Some guys here should be able to tell you what they’re using on the RPR with a 50mm objective though
Thanks a lot for the picture and info Shooter405. And beautiful camo job!
Can anyone tell me what the approximate radius of the Gen 2 handguard is from the center of the bore to the top of the rib that runs along the upper edge of the handguard?
Also, would you guys dissuade me from using a 12"-18" fully enclosed carbon fiber handguard (ie. no cooling slots)? I've never used carbon fiber, so I don't know if it's somehow different from aluminum in terms of its effect on barrel temp. I'm told that cutting cooling slots would weaken the tube significantly, and that it might break if I attach a bipod way out at the end of it.
Thanks again guys,
Steve
^ I went with the 16.5” RPR handguard from Paper City Firearms. You might wanna check it out. It’s both lighter and thinner
