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Ruger Precision Rimfire

Bought the RPR 22lr version, an Atlas bipod and a different grip - more vertical. Now to figure out what scope & mount to use. I'll probably not shoot this more than 200 yards and spend most time at 100 yards. While doing an inventory of ammo on hand found a 30 cal can packed full of CCI Stinger so I know what ammo I'll be using for awhile.

I have Nightforce NX8/ATACR and Vortex Razor on my other larger more expensive precision rifles, but will not spend that kind of money for this low cost 22. Any reasonable recommendations are appreciated! Cheers
For what you are doing look at the Vortex Strike Eagle.
 
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Bought the RPR 22lr version, an Atlas bipod and a different grip - more vertical. Now to figure out what scope & mount to use. I'll probably not shoot this more than 200 yards and spend most time at 100 yards. While doing an inventory of ammo on hand found a 30 cal can packed full of CCI Stinger so I know what ammo I'll be using for awhile.

I have Nightforce NX8/ATACR and Vortex Razor on my other larger more expensive precision rifles, but will not spend that kind of money for this low cost 22. Any reasonable recommendations are appreciated! Cheers
I put a Bushnell Match Pro on mine and have been pretty happy with it for the money. only bad is no zero stop. Only thing I have to compare is to my crocus and for the money it works fine. CCI standard out to 100 I can hold roughly moa
 
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So I will admit I haven't read every post in this thread but still working on it.

I just picked up a 22LR version and tore it apart to do many of the things I have read here. Mainly cleaning out the trigger and relubing it. Also the aluminum tape bedding.

When I was taking it apart I noticed that the bedding screw closest to the trigger was not even finger tight. I reassembled everything to 35 in/lbs and the safety is really hard to move. I removed everything again, relubed and same thing. I removed everything looked it over and it looks fine, reassembled and went finger tight on that bedding screw near the trigger it works fine but as I torque it, it gets harder and harder to move. I just went with 20in/lbs for now.

Thoughts?
 
Well, I pulled the tape and no difference. As soon as I torque down the bedding screw near the trigger it binds up. I put some layout fluid on the trigger assembly where the safety slides in and could see where it is rubbing. I ended up going with two layers of aluminum tape on the bedding block and this raised the action in the chassis enough to solve the issue.
 
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Well, I pulled the tape and no difference. As soon as I torque down the bedding screw near the trigger it binds up. I put some layout fluid on the trigger assembly where the safety slides in and could see where it is rubbing. I ended up going with two layers of aluminum tape on the bedding block and this raised the action in the chassis enough to solve the issue.
I also raised the action that way and it made all the difference. I've been very satisfied with my RPRF since.
 
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I ended up putting a Nightforce SHV 3x10 42 on the RPR 22. I had it on hand and was not being utilized so on it goes. Probably overkill but at least it will have good glass.

Put some stuff from Anarchy Outdoors on it too. The bolt knob, extended mag release, a Titanium bolt shroud and muzzle break. Also found a spare MDT vertical grip that is going on it as well.

Going to try to use the Ruger trigger for now, but may upgrade that when I put the Triggertech Diamond in my RPR 338LM in July when they become available.

This RPR22 should end up being a nice rifle. Haven't installed the MDT grip yet but everything else is installed and tested. Cheers
IMG_0317.jpg
.
 
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Just a side note.

Took a youth group shooting yesterday.

By far the rifle the youth wanted to shoot the most was the RPRr.

The boys thought it looked cool and the biggest bonus was that I could adjust the stock to get all of them comfortable behind it.

They didn’t care it wasn’t the most accurate gun out there. They just loved shooting it.

Of all the guns they could shoot, it had the longest line.

Is it the most accurate gun? Nope
Is it the best action? Nope
Is it the most reliable? - with bulk it’s awesome with match ammo not so much.
Is it the easiest to get new shooters behind? Yes. They even wanted to shoot it over the cz in a chassis.

It was a good reminder that it’s handy to have a wide variety of guns to choose from.
 
Any idea what chamber is used? I asked Ryan on the IBI Facebook page but it's hard to tell when he will answer me.
 
Any idea what chamber is used? I asked Ryan on the IBI Facebook page but it's hard to tell when he will answer me.
Let me see if I can find the post. I’m not sure the chamber. Probably whatever chamber they’ve been putting in their other rimfire barrels if I had to guess.
 
I think someone posted on here that they did… But ordering them turned out to be problematic when I checked
 
Well, I hope it's not their Calfee 4 chamber. I have those on my CZ 457 and Deuce and the rifling does not engrave the bullet. Accuracy is still good not as good as it could be.
 
Thread from the dead. I recently got one of the RPR in 17hmr and am really impressed with its accuracy. Shooting sub moa at 100 of I do my part well. The more I shoot the tighter the groups are getting. Couple weeks ago I put 10 in a 1" circle at 100 yds off a cheap bench rest.
 
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I have been happy with the accuracy of the RPR so far. Maybe I got lucky. Like a lot of people it seems to like CCI SV so far the best. 0.587 MOA 3 round group at 100 yards. I still have the safety issue where it is really stiff but that is fine for how I use it. I will say my son likes shooting this a lot. We will trade off and while we are both right handed, he shoots right handed and I shoot left with the stock set for him to even the playing field a bit.

r5BmgXSOPIhPMKQpfUx8Ymqt9WuI4RTlQnXzN3qfFptyueKoukBAEFgTBFmZ1-BvyMX2Q43jQ7QJ9kHvGj351QDOw2faeLwVwINl8bgMG1VBYQHPmFWtpwvCbso9l5-fdSCFWi8tOuGydfT1cjXLV0ANGOkxb0bWXGtbeyBVrb8IxPgLzXTusqkgwYVYkleURhJT-UxX9IrDIjBwuIh6ume7UInTyMu8Q6nWNJIj4Ev_FyFcVCFZcj03Qe-pNPv6kIvf12ImXrcV5x3RbwIoIXnsz72TkBUoTSjHbd1ioRsp1k_B2jARCnLSyLUJ8uW4L6_2OSIm1qfhDtW06yNz90F_hS39AUpXSxpfGL5neXNyi5MRYepBAxuhWBNy0zz2OqsrziYpq4nJK_0cYWv6ruBdf_lI0aaOiscmF45tg3SrRk2gqFw0YjIacDJ6UIoVSV-1rKzYI2EhCgysLq9XUPLjv1_tcOgTc_MtMeRMu-ehsuNsNFO1gF3B8KfkiYnW7tKzEPhfPrZwiPwxix8gAM46qCpeKUOOp6i6JIlC8_mCO33L71fy7Y67-4oZUBUhJUM6S5wn7GOz8lRHdPfdLN9JR5w7DRaC4drS8myZsg85F9sS_uWJBwRmK-lE3FOHEvmN0GTwDEnh40UrlBo8YTfsOkyDCg1DDyjNt5sAAtW6o7sZ1JB8tiQzUH42X0ugmN3QnXLqxije50xQF7gdGMx8QMaHldfubYLB6EWgY2Ze8QMILylSIXiKogRlau4=w486-h927-no
 
Just an FYI.
Clint beyer is making barrels now for the RPRr.

Need to measure the handguard ID to see if a shrouded barrel would fit.

Thinking 17hm2 shrouded barrel suppressed would be about perfect for a hunting rig for squirrels.
 
Nice.

My problem with the RPR 22 is that it’s really a poor quality made firearm.

The biggest issue was getting it where it needed to be required, putting a bunch of money into things like triggers and replacing the barrel. At that point it made more sense to buy a T1X.
 
Nice.

My problem with the RPR 22 is that it’s really a poor quality made firearm.

The biggest issue was getting it where it needed to be required, putting a bunch of money into things like triggers and replacing the barrel. At that point it made more sense to buy a T1X.
As an owner of a t1x, cz455, cz 457, etc… I agree that it takes a lot more to make it shoot like any of these (although my OEM barrel is great).

But what the RPRr does, it does well.

I wonder if they would have gone with a different magazine or just had a metal magwell like on the 10/22, or at least have the chassis around the magwell be metal so it wouldn’t flex, how many issues would have been solved.
 
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Thread from the dead. I recently got one of the RPR in 17hmr and am really impressed with its accuracy. Shooting sub moa at 100 of I do my part well. The more I shoot the tighter the groups are getting. Couple weeks ago I put 10 in a 1" circle at 100 yds off a cheap bench rest.
A reply to your thread form the dead by a member that has been among the dead for a couple of years thanks to a computer blowing up and despite my best efforts never receiving any e-mail until today to get back on the site. My son-in-law- recently purchased the RPR in 17HMR and reports the same results as your. It's very accurate.
 
My RPR22lr is very accurate but has been completely disassembled, upgraded (listed in this thread) and precisely assembled. Initial quality of the production item was not 100% satisfactory. A similarly equipped like for like t1x or 457 is more expensive.

The rifle remains quite sensitive to ammo. At 100 yards <1" groups are typical with good ammo. For many shooters this is just what they are looking for. For high end PRS shooters there are other choices. Cheers
 
I had a rpr 22 a few years ago and didnt have this problem, but I picked one up for my son, new last week and the bolt is pretty stiff when closing it... Empty, loaded round, doesnt matter.

Anyone else have this?

May put some flitz on the bolt and inside the action and cycle it a while
 
I had a rpr 22 a few years ago and didnt have this problem, but I picked one up for my son, new last week and the bolt is pretty stiff when closing it... Empty, loaded round, doesnt matter.

Anyone else have this?

May put some flitz on the bolt and inside the action and cycle it a while
Grease the bolt cocking cam and sit with it for 10 minutes in front of the TV cycling the bolt. It will blow mind the difference. Ruger always wants you to do the finishing work imo
 
Grease the bolt cocking cam and sit with it for 10 minutes in front of the TV cycling the bolt. It will blow mind the difference. Ruger always wants you to do the finishing work imo
I figured that out after posting. The back side of the bolt handle rubs on the action when closing. May rub flitz on it and cycle the hell out of it to smooth it out
 
I figured that out after posting. The back side of the bolt handle rubs on the action when closing. May rub flitz on it and cycle the hell out of it to smooth it out
You could but I would just keep cycling the bolt. It will wear in
 
Also I have to mention that my barrel is shimmed. 3 pieces of HD aluminum foil. My ruger was part of the first release in 2018
 
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So I will admit I haven't read every post in this thread but still working on it.

I just picked up a 22LR version and tore it apart to do many of the things I have read here. Mainly cleaning out the trigger and relubing it. Also the aluminum tape bedding.

When I was taking it apart I noticed that the bedding screw closest to the trigger was not even finger tight. I reassembled everything to 35 in/lbs and the safety is really hard to move. I removed everything again, relubed and same thing. I removed everything looked it over and it looks fine, reassembled and went finger tight on that bedding screw near the trigger it works fine but as I torque it, it gets harder and harder to move. I just went with 20in/lbs for now.

Thoughts?
Based on the way the safety is designed on those being an Ar style they are sensitive to action screw torque. Some guys are getting away with bidding the action lug with some adhesive foil tape and then reassembling it torquing at the 25 inch pounds and then going up from there until they reach 35 or safety starts binding again. Easy workaround.
 
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I found the RPRR to be a fairly cheap piece of equipment.

I’m certain you can get it shooting relatively well, but out of the box, there are quality control issues.

Well, I took a borescope through the action and into the bore. It looked an awful lot like 1980s machining… chatter marks, etc.

So I gave it to a friend, and bought a Tikka T1X… put a bull barrel on it, and put it in the KRG chassis…
 
I found the RPRR to be a fairly cheap piece of equipment.

I’m certain you can get it shooting relatively well, but out of the box, there are quality control issues.

Well, I took a borescope through the action and into the bore. It looked an awful lot like 1980s machining… chatter marks, etc.

So I gave it to a friend, and bought a Tikka T1X… put a bull barrel on it, and put it in the KRG chassis…
Why didn’t you just swap barrels on the rpr?
I have a t1x and do like it better but I got lucky with my Ruger
 
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Looks like Sharpsbros has made a chassis for the RPRr



Hopefully it fixed the rigidity issues. Although expensive ~$450 compared to the cost of the gun if it solves the issues it might be worth it.

Tempted to snag one for my boys RPRr. The OEM barrel still shoot well with Eley ammo (even contact and force have shot well for plinking ammo).

Wondering if I drop back on the whistlepig match barrel in this chassis if it would gain much.
 
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What options are people using for an accurate round in this gun? Mine shoots AR Tactical ok, but I haven't tested more that two or three ammuniiton types.

I just really shoot gophers with mine and it is a field gun.

For the money, it is a fun gun - but the stock trigger is the worst part of the gun. I backed that adjustment screw out so far one day that I lost the screw.

rpr.jpg
 
What options are people using for an accurate round in this gun? Mine shoots AR Tactical ok, but I haven't tested more that two or three ammuniiton types.

I just really shoot gophers with mine and it is a field gun.

For the money, it is a fun gun - but the stock trigger is the worst part of the gun. I backed that adjustment screw out so far one day that I lost the screw.

View attachment 8196855
When Federal Ultra Match was made my Eley (I think it was Eley???), it was the best out of my RPRF. Other's that did well were Lapua Center-X, Eley Club and RWS-R50. Surprisingly, I found that the CCI SV's did almost as well and so they're a very good value for what you pay. The worst were Remington Golden Bullets, Winchester Super-X, Aguila Interceptors, Herter's Target and for the money, CCI Green Tag was a huge disappointment (didn't perform as well as the SV's). Attached is a file with a lot of difference rounds that I've fire through my RPRF. It's an Excel file that I've changed the extension to .pdf so that it can be post here for download. You'll just have to change that extension back to .xlsx to get at the data. I had changed barrels to a Shaw barrel and it's indicated by a +S on the gun description.

Step 1. Open Windows File Explorer.
Step 2. Click the "View" tab. Tick the "File name extensions" option.

Check File Name Extensions

Step 3. Now you can see the file extension of all your files. Find the file that you would like to change the file extension, right-click the file, choose rename, and enter the new file extension.
 

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When Federal Ultra Match was made my Eley (I think it was Eley???), it was the best out of my RPRF. Other's that did well were Lapua Center-X, Eley Club and RWS-R50. Surprisingly, I found that the CCI SV's did almost as well and so they're a very good value for what you pay. The worst were Remington Golden Bullets, Winchester Super-X, Aguila Interceptors, Herter's Target and for the money, CCI Green Tag was a huge disappointment (didn't perform as well as the SV's). Attached is a file with a lot of difference rounds that I've fire through my RPRF. It's an Excel file that I've changed the extension to .pdf so that it can be post here for download. You'll just have to change that extension back to .xlsx to get at the data. I had changed barrels to a Shaw barrel and it's indicated by a +S on the gun description.

Step 1. Open Windows File Explorer.
Step 2. Click the "View" tab. Tick the "File name extensions" option.

Check File Name Extensions

Step 3. Now you can see the file extension of all your files. Find the file that you would like to change the file extension, right-click the file, choose rename, and enter the new file extension.
thanks.
For some reason my computer woudl not let me open the file.
Did you get an apprecable improvement when you switched barrels?
 
While waiting for the new 1827 with AI stock from Anschutz, I purchased a RPR, put a timney trigger in it, with Zeiss S3 636 scope, Zeiss rings and Lapua Super Long Range.
Removed the short stroke collar and went at it.
Initial failure to extract after 200 rnd cured by a little JB in the chamber polishing and a more energetic bolt lift and ejection.
It’ seems to be 10/22 mag selective so when I find one that works, I keep using it.
Targets are the first two weeks of a series of 200 yd matches we are having.
First target had wind from the 220 degree direction and second target was just about a dead calm.
No scope adjustments between targets, just cleaned the rifle bolt and bore.
Goal is all 10’s, 25 rnds per match.
-Richard
 

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I was fortunate to get one of these excellent Sharp Bros. chassis as soon as it became available. I blew the dust off of my RPR and went about mating the chassis and RPR's barreled action. Flawless! A perfect fit.. Added a stock, grip and scope then off to the range. Magazine fed flawlessly and I could actually shoot the RPR now with a real cheek weld! No more "stock flex flyers". Now there is no excuse. The rifle's full potential can now be exploited.
 

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I was fortunate to get one of these excellent Sharp Bros. chassis as soon as it became available. I blew the dust off of my RPR and went about mating the chassis and RPR's barreled action. Flawless! A perfect fit.. Added a stock, grip and scope then off to the range. Magazine fed flawlessly and I could actually shoot the RPR now with a real cheek weld! No more "stock flex flyers". Now there is no excuse. The rifle's full potential can now be exploited.
looks like a good chassis. The RPR I have has the smallest length of pull of any gun I ever owned. It's like the gun is made for a small child...