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Ruger Precision Rimfire

I mean as far as I have ever scene any quality of shotgun still sends the shot down the tube and scatters out the end. A poorly built rifle can do the same thing, scatter bullets out the muzzle. You aren't going to win any competitions with a rifle that doesn't shoot
High-end shotguns can be as "accurized" as high-end rifles. It's all about perfectly round patterns and short, evenly dispersed shot strings with the correct ammo. But, with any decent shooting shotgun, if your target is in the center of the pattern, you will score a hit. But, it's up to you to put it there.

Rifle and barrel manufacturing has greatly improved in the past 20-odd years. Most rack rifles - excluding some military versions - can hold one MOA or less with the right ammo. If they don't, then that particular rifle has an issue and needs to go back to the manufacturer.

Some rifle competitions rely heavily on shooting skills. But, there are those competitions like bench rest that depend heavily on the rifle, and often become more of a competition to see who has the best hardware.

The bottom line is that in theory, you can have a rifle and ammo combo that can put ten shots in the same hole at 100 yards when shot from a vise. The issue then becomes can you make it do that in your hands. And, if you are a good enough shooter, does it really need to do that for your particular application?
 
High-end shotguns can be as "accurized" as high-end rifles. It's all about perfectly round patterns and short, evenly dispersed shot strings with the correct ammo. But, with any decent shooting shotgun, if your target is in the center of the pattern, you will score a hit. But, it's up to you to put it there.

Rifle and barrel manufacturing has greatly improved in the past 20-odd years. Most rack rifles - excluding some military versions - can hold one MOA or less with the right ammo. If they don't, then that particular rifle has an issue and needs to go back to the manufacturer.

Some rifle competitions rely heavily on shooting skills. But, there are those competitions like bench rest that depend heavily on the rifle, and often become more of a competition to see who has the best hardware.

The bottom line is that in theory, you can have a rifle and ammo combo that can put ten shots in the same hole at 100 yards when shot from a vise. The issue then becomes can you make it do that in your hands. And, if you are a good enough shooter, does it really need to do that for your particular application?
I've only ever heard of playing with different ammo and choke tubes for shotguns. It's entirely up to the shooter to make it hit the target, me and a buddy have been shooting 22lr in a sort of ELR style of shooting, out passed 500 yards. the sub moa guns definitely make this easier. ya it can still be done with a sub quality rilfe but it's more reliable hits with higher quality stuff. there is a point when you can blame the gear. So I guess the answer to your question is yes I want/ need it to be hold small consistent groups
 
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Like I Said How Much Do You Want To Spend .
You Will Never Out Shoot Your Gear .
If You Do Get A Different Hobby
I've only ever heard of playing with different ammo and choke tubes for shotguns. It's entirely up to the shooter to make it hit the target, me and a buddy have been shooting 22lr in a sort of ELR style of shooting, out passed 500 yards. the sub moa guns definitely make this easier. ya it can still be done with a sub quality rilfe but it's more reliable hits with higher quality stuff. there is a point when you can blame the gear. So I guess the answer to your question is yes I want/ need it to be hold small consistent groups
 
I've only ever heard of playing with different ammo and choke tubes for shotguns. It's entirely up to the shooter to make it hit the target, me and a buddy have been shooting 22lr in a sort of ELR style of shooting, out passed 500 yards. the sub moa guns definitely make this easier. ya it can still be done with a sub quality rilfe but it's more reliable hits with higher quality stuff. there is a point when you can blame the gear. So I guess the answer to your question is yes I want/ need it to be hold small consistent groups
The problem is, you're assuming every high-dollar rifle is sub MOA and every bargain rifle isn't.
 
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I've only ever heard of playing with different ammo and choke tubes for shotguns.

There's a lot more to it than that if you want the absolute best patterns: http://jimeyster.com/choking/choking.htm

Note, just because the process is called "choking" does not mean that the gunsmith is limiting his work to the actual choke area at the muzzle.

There are shotgun sports where thousands of dollars are riding on a shot........
 
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You Will Never Out Shoot Your Gear .
What? that's not even remotely true. There is tons of shooters that can shoot .2 moa groups and tons of rifles that are not capable of holding that tight of group, that is out shooting the gear.
The problem is, you're assuming every high-dollar rifle is sub MOA and every bargain rifle isn't.
I don't know where you are getting that from, I'm basing it off of personal experience and the research I have done, not to mention the RPRF is actually more expensive than the T1x MTR... once it gets put in a chassis it'll be more expensive but from what I have seen they shoot better right out of the box in factory configuration. I was speaking to the actual quality of the product not the price.
 
What? that's not even remotely true. There is tons of shooters that can shoot .2 moa groups and tons of rifles that are not capable of holding that tight of group, that is out shooting the gear.

I don't know where you are getting that from, I'm basing it off of personal experience and the research I have done, not to mention the RPRF is actually more expensive than the T1x MTR... once it gets put in a chassis it'll be more expensive but from what I have seen they shoot better right out of the box in factory configuration. I was speaking to the actual quality of the product not the price.

I've seen lots of vices, lead sleds, and supports that can hold .2 MOA groups, but not that many shooters. It's good that you do as much research as you can, but you can only count so much on what you see on the internet. Other people's situation can be different. To really find out, you have get the gun in your hands and have time to check it out. And, what works for somebody else may not work for you.
 
I've seen lots of vices, lead sleds, and supports that can hold .2 MOA groups, but not that many shooters. It's good that you do as much research as you can, but you can only count so much on what you see on the internet. Other people's situation can be different. To really find out, you have get the gun in your hands and have time to check it out. And, what works for somebody else may not work for you.
Ya I agree not all guns are created equal, I guess the point is I'm not entirely satisfied with this ruger and Think i've got a better chance with the Tikka, If it doesn't shoot I would be happier investing the money into it to get it to shoot. I'm not happy with the chassis on this ruger and there's nothing I can do about it. I'm heavily considering a vudoo but the price is pretty crazy up here.
 
Ya I agree not all guns are created equal, I guess the point is I'm not entirely satisfied with this ruger and Think i've got a better chance with the Tikka, If it doesn't shoot I would be happier investing the money into it to get it to shoot. I'm not happy with the chassis on this ruger and there's nothing I can do about it. I'm heavily considering a vudoo but the price is pretty crazy up here.
All I can offer is this- I have both, RPRR and Tikka T1x. Shot NRL22 with RPRR for a year, then switched to T1x. A year into the Tikka, I put a Shaw barrel on the RPRR and started messing around with it. Tikka still completely smokes the RPRR in quality and ’shootability’. The Ruger is good. The Tikka is just better. If the T1x had been available when I was shopping, I never would have bought the Ruger. It’s that noticable a quality difference, even before you shoot it. Once you shoot them, it becomes more clear. RPRR is accurate but the T1x is ridiculously ( 10 rounds in .41 @ 50 ) good. Not Vudoo good, but it’s a sub $500 rifle.
 
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I have had my RPR for a couple years have had a great time wringing the best accuracy from it
I have run the whole gambit bedding, Magazine, torque settings, shaw match barrel, all brands of ammo
Great fun! finally the one thing that tops the list and fine tuned the accuracy was a JARD 8oz Trigger
It does shoot Lapua ammo best - 3/8 groups
But i practice with Federal auto match which it likes also
I shoot KYL and can clean the rack with ease really like this gun
PS: just bought a Bergara B14R steel no reflection on my RPR just wanted a new toy to play with!
 
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I had put about 700 rounds thru my RPRF 22LR testing ammo. My results have been inconsistent. I've been shooting 100 rounds of whatever I'm testing. Maybe 10-15 rounds to season the barrel then two or three 6 x 5 targets. SK Rifle Match got me some .4xx and .3xx groups but averaged around .5 inches. But most other ammunition I averaged in the .7xx-.6xx range.

Friday I tested Lapua Midas+. I wish I could afford to shoot this stuff all the time!
 

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I picked up a RPRR last weekend and proceeded to pop on a too cheap scope (Vortex Sonora) and get it sighted in the hour I had of sun left. I had read most of this thread. Picked up the gun at Sportsmans and rejected the 1st 2 due to really heavy bolt actions. The one I took home felt decent and I figured with the polish it'd get smoother. However on forward throw the bolt digs pretty hard when actioning forward. Worse when using the 'logn throw' setting. I pulled the whole gun appart and polished the bolt pretty well with 1800 grit diamond paste and a dremel. It's not a mirror but its quite smooth. But when I action it unless I'm using my thumb along the back of the handle parallel to the action it digs. The whole bolt will actually flop around a good amount when open. From what I can see the bolt retainer is the piece that's causing it to feel like it's digging. I dont think other than manually working the bolt that I can get at it to take off the burr is there is any. I bed it with 1 layer of hvac tape while I was at it and torqued to 35. I'm happy with it but the floppy bolt has me a little worried.
RPR pair.jpg
 
I picked up a RPRR last weekend and proceeded to pop on a too cheap scope (Vortex Sonora) and get it sighted in the hour I had of sun left. I had read most of this thread. Picked up the gun at Sportsmans and rejected the 1st 2 due to really heavy bolt actions. The one I took home felt decent and I figured with the polish it'd get smoother. However on forward throw the bolt digs pretty hard when actioning forward. Worse when using the 'logn throw' setting. I pulled the whole gun appart and polished the bolt pretty well with 1800 grit diamond paste and a dremel. It's not a mirror but its quite smooth. But when I action it unless I'm using my thumb along the back of the handle parallel to the action it digs. The whole bolt will actually flop around a good amount when open. From what I can see the bolt retainer is the piece that's causing it to feel like it's digging. I dont think other than manually working the bolt that I can get at it to take off the burr is there is any. I bed it with 1 layer of hvac tape while I was at it and torqued to 35. I'm happy with it but the floppy bolt has me a little worried.View attachment 7730437

For me it took some adjustments over a little time to get my rimfire to operate well. I expect that from a rather cheap gun. ;)

 
Has anyone tried a tuner on their RPRR and if so how were your results? Doesn't have to be high end ammo, any ammo tested with any barrel and tuner is fine.

I attempted to purchase an upgraded barrel and that didn't work out so picked up an ATS tuner just haven't been able to get to the range yet. It would be nice to know what I might expect.
 
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Ruger rpr. Bushnell Matchpro. CCI still. I am a long time squirrel hunter but never done much distance before. was able to keep roughly 1in groups today off or bipod and rear bag. I was pretty happy with that Smoked this chicken 10 in a row at 100yds. this is just plain stupid fun.
 

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When you end up on the RPRR squad!
 

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Our club is wanting to put an arca rail on the loaner rpr we have. What is everyone using on theirs here? I used the area 419 mlok rail when I had my rpr but didnt know if there was something else out there now?
 
Our club is wanting to put an arca rail on the loaner rpr we have. What is everyone using on theirs here? I used the area 419 mlok rail when I had my rpr but didnt know if there was something else out there now?

I've run their arca plate on my stuff and haven't had issues at all and recommend them to everyone I know.
 
Our club is wanting to put an arca rail on the loaner rpr we have. What is everyone using on theirs here? I used the area 419 mlok rail when I had my rpr but didnt know if there was something else out there now?
Just happen to have mine sitting on the table in front of me. The Arca rail I have attached to it comes from Sawtooth Rifles.

Oops, the rimfire version...
 
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I used a Henderson Precision 10” Universal ARCA rail on my RPRimfirePurchased from Short Action Precision SAP. Their proprietary MLOK mount kit was perfect fit. Allows me to move Warne bipod with ARCA mount between PRS gun and RPRimfire
 
I have a RRS rail and area 419 rail. I don't know that 1 is better then the other.

Do both of those rails have the notches on the rail? I know the 419 does, which makes locking the 419 clamp stay in place with less tension when you attach the clamp. I have a couple of the 419 clamps, but don't have a 419 rail, so I took the pins out of each side that would lock up with the notches on the 419 rails.
 
Do both of those rails have the notches on the rail? I know the 419 does, which makes locking the 419 clamp stay in place with less tension when you attach the clamp. I have a couple of the 419 clamps, but don't have a 419 rail, so I took the pins out of each side that would lock up with the notches on the 419 rails.
I’d buy a 419 ARCA rail I’d you want to use their style of clamp
 
I’d buy a 419 ARCA rail I’d you want to use their style of clamp
The MPA BA chassis my Vudoo already has an ARCA rail built in. I bought the 419 clamps because a lot of people recommend them. I have since changed the clamp on my Atlas CAL bipod to a cam lever Gray Ops clamp, much better...will probably change all clamps to those.
 
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You cannot make a silk purse out of a sow's ear! I know as I have tried with my RPR. Buy a Vudoo and life will be good!!

Remember the saying, "Friends don't let friends buy a Ruger rifle".
My club couldnt afford a vudoo but heres mine...
match4.jpg
 
Remember the saying, "Friends don't let friends buy a Ruger rifle".


How many times are you going to keep repeating this shit? Lol move the f@$& on dude. If you hate Ruger so much then stop reading the threads.

EDITED: for the children
 

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Weird question for you guys. I’ve shot my rpr-r a few times using cci standard 1080fps (I think) and it was a hammer for my skill range. Last night I took it to a local indoor range and tried some Fed auto match since a lot of people had great luck with it. This was a brand new box of newer stuff, after the label redesign. It would group decent enough at 50 yards, probably a little larger than moa, but I kept getting random fliers. I’m not talking a little jerk on my end, more like 1 to 1.5 mils in any random direction. After a couple, it would settle back down and be fine for a bit. It also seemed to do it on the first shot if I let the barrel cool off a little. I never ran it hard enough to get it overly hot. Maybe it’s the ammo? Maybe my rifle doesn’t like it? Maybe the barrel isn’t shot in yet? Anyone else experienced this?

I’m going back this week with a variety of ammo I was shooting and freshly cleaning the rifle before the trip. It only has about 150 total rounds on it so far.
 
If just plinking? Go the 22lr route. If for something else? Like maybe the occasional small game hunt,etc…. I’d favor the 22wmr. That’s just my opinion. Both will work well for either.

Or…… just buy both! One never needs an excuse to own another rifle!
 
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I sold my RPRR and regret it.
Debating another bolt 22 in the price range.
Do the new production rifles have bullet gouging on loading the round? What about the normal American rimfire the RPRR is based on?
Craig
 
The Ruger American and RPRF bolt 22s run basically the same magazine feed and bolts and so share the same risk of damaging the bullet. A little time spent tuning the magazines or proactively replacing the magazine plunger and spring with aftermarket versions from Kidd (an inexpensive and very worthwhile upgrade) will eliminate most if not all of that issue. I upgraded my RPRF with the Kidd parts and tuned my magazines by taking a couple clicks off their spring tension and have not had any problem with feeding or bullets being damaged.

However, there are options from other manufactures in or near price point of the RPRF that you might want to look into. The Tikka T1x and Bergara BMR come to mind and you might find something from CZ.
 
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but there's no aftermarket chasis option for the rimfire precision rifle, right?
 
It's a shame Ruger had a fantastic rimfire in the 77/22 and got rid of it for this.
I'd buy another 77/22 in a heartbeat if I could.
 
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If anyone has an original RPRF the black plastic bolt knob, that wants to sell it, let me know
 
Sorry if this has ben covered before but a search here (and on the net) has come up dry. My buddy has a Ruger Precision rimfire in 22 mag and wants me to convert it to .22 LR for him. I know the barrel swap is easy but I'm not sure if the receiver/mag well is adaptable. Can it be done or does he need to sell it and buy a new one? If so what parts are needed? Thanks in advance.
 
Sorry if this has ben covered before but a search here (and on the net) has come up dry. My buddy has a Ruger Precision rimfire in 22 mag and wants me to convert it to .22 LR for him. I know the barrel swap is easy but I'm not sure if the receiver/mag well is adaptable. Can it be done or does he need to sell it and buy a new one? If so what parts are needed? Thanks in advance.
To the best of my knowledge all you do is move part 54 in the chassis diagram into the slot closer to the barrel. You can get a copy of the owner's manual that contains the diagram here.
 
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Thank you, I will look into that! It would be great if the mag issue were that simple.
 
Bought the RPR 22lr version, an Atlas bipod and a different grip - more vertical. Now to figure out what scope & mount to use. I'll probably not shoot this more than 200 yards and spend most time at 100 yards. While doing an inventory of ammo on hand found a 30 cal can packed full of CCI Stinger so I know what ammo I'll be using for awhile.

I have Nightforce NX8/ATACR and Vortex Razor on my other larger more expensive precision rifles, but will not spend that kind of money for this low cost 22. Any reasonable recommendations are appreciated! Cheers
 
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