Savage Impulse 1 year update

[SupressYourself]

Did you try the drop test after you removed the spring ?

Last night I dropped it from waist-high onto the butt pad with the safety on "fire". It did not trip the trigger. In fact, the impact moved the safety back to the "safe" position.
Do yours have the extra spring inside the spring? If so, I'm surprised you were able to get them under 2#, but maybe I'm the outlier.

 

[shoots100]

Last night I dropped it from waist-high onto the butt pad with the safety on "fire". It did not trip the trigger. In fact, the impact moved the safety back to the "safe" position.
Do yours have the extra spring inside the spring? If so, I'm surprised you were able to get them under 2#, but maybe I'm the outlier.

It's good that your mod passed the drop test and improved your trigger pull.
I checked my 20-250 rifle, as it needs to be sighted in after I adjusted the AGM Adder mount and it has both springs.
I'm not messing with the 243 predator, but I didn't touch the springs, so I'm guessing it has both springs in it too.
Both of my predator rifles came from the factory with light trigger pulls.
My 243 came from the factory with a 2 lb pull and now it averages 1-3/4 lbs.
Just checked the 20-250 and it averages 1-1/2 lbs after ten tests with both the mechanical and digital pull gauges.
The adjustment screws still have the yellow sealant on them.
I don't need it, but if the Impulse line stays around, I hope someone will make an adjustable aftermarket trigger.


SJC

 

[SupressYourself]

I did a quick video on ejection. If you run the bolt as slow as possible, it will drop inside the action, but I'm not sure why anyone would do that. If you run the bolt normally, you can launch cases almost as far as you like. The only issue I've had is finding my brass. Sometimes it's 3 feet, sometimes 12. Just depends on how hard you pull on the bolt.

 

[shoots100]

The only issue I've had is finding my brass.

Brass catcher, but they only work if you remember to put it on !
It's made in Chyna and imported by Lyman, but the Tacstar brass catcher has worked great for me.
Very light, folds flat and I haven't had any issues with it melting, like I had with other brands.
I bought an extra pict rail adapter so I can use the brass catcher on both of my predators.
Since I'm a southpaw and have the bolt handle on the left side, I've had no issue with the brass catcher, but remembered that it won't work so well for a right handed shooter, as the bolt is to close to the catcher and gets knocked off when trying to grab the bolt.
So tough luck for you evil right handed shooters, but great if your a southpaw.

SJC

 

[MachZ]

If you or your machinist friend decides to sell the extension kit I would definitely be interested. I have the Predator in 6.5 CM but am wanting to play with some other barrels. Savage is a little past having their barrel/bolt kits "shortly after release", though I can't remember if Savage said that or it was an article online that made that claim.

 

[E6Chevron]

Seems to me that he needed a bipod, but did not need a heavy barrel. A carbon fiber wrapped barrel is how the firearm was improved for his needs.

 

[shoots100]

Glad it is a tack driver.

You complain that it is barrel heavy but you have a bipod on it. Then you have a carbon fiber wrapped barrel to alleviate this but have a huge weight at the front. This is why I can not take too many men seriously today! Actions and words do not align!

I could say the same for men who don't read before they type.
Post #2;

Weighs around just under 10lbs with the Halo X50 , LC and a loaded 5 round metal AICS mag, as I would be carrying it in the field.

 

[EKHB]

After initial testing, I've only used the rifle for predator hunting and I've had no issues with it so far.
I did send a few parts to get professionally black oxide coated and they look great.
After some testing with the anodized parts we might start selling kit's, but from the beginning I did this for my own use.
I didn't think there'd be enough Impulse owners interested in swapping barrels to sell them.
My rifle is in predator hunting mode now, so I'm not going to be messing around with it till predator season ends at the end of March.
I was going to buy another Impulse predator rifle and do some testing with it, but I have to many irons in the fire now.
View attachment 7996348
View attachment 7996349

Definitely interested in getting a couple bushings if you make a batch to sell. Also interested in experimenting with a custom bushing to time my prefit Zermatt barrels, not sure if head space will work but would like to see if that is a possibility if your machinist has some free time.

 

[Leonard Lawrence]

Since Savage isn't selling any parts to be able to change barrels on the Impulse rifles they sell, I visited a machinist friend and after almost a years time, we finally made all of the parts for the quick change barrel kit.
Barrel extension, Recoil lug and flat sided barrel nut.
I've put almost 100 Semi hot rounds through the factory .243 barrel and 50 through the .260 barrel without a hitch.
Even did some POI test's and although it was only done at 25 and 50 yards, there was no significant POI change.
Since the barrel assy has the recoil lug attached to it, you need to remove the barreled action from the stock to switch barrels.
I can change barrels in under two minutes.
Pics;

View attachment 7954613View attachment 7954614View attachment 7954615View attachment 7954616View attachment 7954648

Hi, Im new to the forum but I have been told you are the guy to talk to regarding extensions for the Impulse predator (small shank) do you have any for sale or contacts to get a set or two? If so would you be able to ship them to Australia?

 

[PRCWV]

I'm wanting to also build a 22 Creedmoor on a Hog Hunter model Impulse. Would be very interested in a parts kit so I could use my 6.5 if I wanted to.

 

[Birch7]

Definitely interested in getting a couple bushings if you make a batch to sell. Also interested in experimenting with a custom bushing to time my prefit Zermatt barrels, not sure if head space will work but would like to see if that is a possibility if your machinist has some free time.

Impulse with Zermatt prefit? Won’t work due to long impulse tenon

 

[SupressYourself]

I could care less about "likes" or subscribers, but for those interested, I did a number of videos on the Impulse, including a seven-part series on re-barreling using the quick change kit from @shoots100.

Savage Impulse Playlist​

 

[PRCWV]

I think you did a great job on the videos. Very informative.

 

[shoots100]

I could care less about "likes" or subscribers, but for those interested, I did a number of videos on the Impulse, including a seven-part series on re-barreling using the quick change kit from @shoots100.

Savage Impulse Playlist​

Next up is a series of videos showing you dropping some varmints with your Impulse.

 

[SupressYourself]

Anyone get light primer strikes from their impulse?

Mine has 516 rounds on it now, and it started having misfires, as in "click... nothing". In some cases, I could run that same cartridge again and it would fire the second try. In other cases, it would not. I pulled apart the ones that would not and hit the primer on a rock with a hammer, they all went off, so were not just "duds".
At first, I thought it was that my priming tool was not seating them deep enough. Some of them were a bit "proud". After correcting that, it seemed better, but I still had 2 "clicks" out of 20. One of them fired on the second try. The other one was run 3-4 times without success. I seem to be getting a decent dent in the primer, but it's not consistent.

These are CCI BR4 primers in new Alpha 22 Creedmoor brass.
Oddly enough, during load development, I fired 63 rounds using the same components and I assume the priming tool was leaving them "proud" at that time too, but I had no issue. This is a recent development.

Probably I should take the bolt apart and clean the innards. Any other ideas?

 

[Longshot231]

Anyone get light primer strikes from their impulse?

Mine has 516 rounds on it now, and it started having misfires, as in "click... nothing". In some cases, I could run that same cartridge again and it would fire the second try. In other cases, it would not. I pulled apart the ones that would not and hit the primer on a rock with a hammer, they all went off, so were not just "duds".
At first, I thought it was that my priming tool was not seating them deep enough. Some of them were a bit "proud". After correcting that, it seemed better, but I still had 2 "clicks" out of 20. One of them fired on the second try. The other one was run 3-4 times without success. I seem to be getting a decent dent in the primer, but it's not consistent.

These are CCI BR4 primers in new Alpha 22 Creedmoor brass.
Oddly enough, during load development, I fired 63 rounds using the same components and I assume the priming tool was leaving them "proud" at that time too, but I had no issue. This is a recent development.

Probably I should take the bolt apart and clean the innards. Any other ideas?

I doubt that there's anything wrong with your rifle. Sometimes, when chambering a round, the bolt handle isn't moved forward enough.

I don't know what happens inside the bolt but the result is that the striker doesn't have enough energy to hit the firing pin resulting in a light primer strike.

Just make sure you move the bolt forward all the way. It doesn't have to be fast but give it a little extra push.

I had the same experience with factory rounds and noticed that I wasn't pushing the bolt handle forward far enough. I cannot duplicate it with an empty chamber but notice the problem when there is a live round inserted.

My theory is that there's enough resistance with a live round pushed in the chamber, on the bolt that if the handle isn't pushed completely forward then a light primer strike will occur.

I have grown use to the rifle and manipulating the bolt is second nature with zero light strikes.

 

[Longshot231]

 

[shoots100]

Anyone get light primer strikes from their impulse?

Mine has 516 rounds on it now, and it started having misfires, as in "click... nothing". In some cases, I could run that same cartridge again and it would fire the second try. In other cases, it would not. I pulled apart the ones that would not and hit the primer on a rock with a hammer, they all went off, so were not just "duds".
At first, I thought it was that my priming tool was not seating them deep enough. Some of them were a bit "proud". After correcting that, it seemed better, but I still had 2 "clicks" out of 20. One of them fired on the second try. The other one was run 3-4 times without success. I seem to be getting a decent dent in the primer, but it's not consistent.

These are CCI BR4 primers in new Alpha 22 Creedmoor brass.
Oddly enough, during load development, I fired 63 rounds using the same components and I assume the priming tool was leaving them "proud" at that time too, but I had no issue. This is a recent development.

Probably I should take the bolt apart and clean the innards. Any other ideas?

Try using a different primer or seating them more firmly.
I've used Win, CCI and Rem LRP primers and haven't had an issue for over a thousand rounds through my two enhanced Predators.
With the bolt unlocked, check the firing pin protrusion through the bolt head.
Flushing it out with some WD40 wouldn't hurt.

SJC

 

[WindstormSCR]

Any Impulse owners able to comment on if the big game version could be made to work with AICS mags if dropped into a stock that supports it?

Looking at the Big Game in .300 WSM, but the proprietary mags put me off. Wondering if it could be dropped into the Boyd’s predator inlet

 

[Longshot231]

Any Impulse owners able to comment on if the big game version could be made to work with AICS mags if dropped into a stock that supports it?

Looking at the Big Game in .300 WSM, but the proprietary mags put me off. Wondering if it could be dropped into the Boyd’s predator inlet

I have the big game version in 6.5 CM. AICS will not work.

Savage also says their magazines for the 110 will not work.

However, I have made them work by doing some filing on the top edges. I did that to both the 10 round and 4 round magazines.

It took a lot of trial and error but I got them to work.

The ten-round magazines will only hold nine rounds.

I keep meaning to do a how-to write up on modifying the 110 mags with photos but been so busy that I keep forgetting. Sorry.

 

[WindstormSCR]

I have the big game version in 6.5 CM. AICS will not work.

Savage also says their magazines for the 110 will not work.

However, I have made them work by doing some filing on the top edges. I did that to both the 10 round and 4 round magazines.

It took a lot of trial and error but I got them to work.

The ten-round magazines will only hold nine rounds.

I keep meaning to do a how-to write up on modifying the 110 mags with photos but been so busy that I keep forgetting. Sorry.

its all good, you'd think savage would offer 300WSM in the aics mag version considering its a short action cartridge just with a magnum bolt face.

the impulse elite precision seems to offer what I want in terms of magazine and magnum bolt face, but no 300 WSM cartridge option. Kind of strange

not a popular choice of cartridge I know, but I already have loads I like for other rifles and a reloading setup for it, so adding and working with yet another caliber was something I was trying to avoid while exploring the straight pull game

 

[shoots100]

The predator model is a short action made to fit up to .308 OAL cartridges with .473 Rim Dia, with a 3-3/8" ejection port.
The big game model has the same action bolt hole centers as the predator model, but with a bigger bolt head to accommodate the bigger cartridges and a 3-3/4" ejection port, so I'm guessing that if you could find a predator model to get the bottom plastic, you should be able to fit(with some inletting )the bottom plastic from a predator model into a big game model stock.
You'd have to call Savage and see if they have Impulse parts for sale.

SJC

 

[WindstormSCR]

The predator model is a short action made to fit up to .308 OAL cartridges with .473 Rim Dia, with a 3-3/8" ejection port.
The big game model has the same action bolt hole centers as the predator model, but with a bigger bolt head to accommodate the bigger cartridges and a 3-3/4" ejection port, so I'm guessing that if you could find a predator model to get the bottom plastic, you should be able to fit(with some inletting )the bottom plastic from a predator model into a big game model stock.
You'd have to call Savage and see if they have Impulse parts for sale.

SJC

that means the boyd stock might actually work, since it is inlet for the predator with the mag catch. thanks for the info! I'm no stranger to woodwork, so I might have a fun project on my hands.

 

[SupressYourself]

Try using a different primer or seating them more firmly.
I've used Win, CCI and Rem LRP primers and haven't had an issue for over a thousand rounds through my two enhanced Predators.
With the bolt unlocked, check the firing pin protrusion through the bolt head.
Flushing it out with some WD40 wouldn't hurt.

SJC

Other than the bolt handle and head, I couldn't figure out how to get the bolt apart, and both the Internet and Savage support have not been helpful. So I flushed it out as best I could with Hornady OneShot gun cleaner and compressed air.

Near as I could tell with my calipers, firing pin protrusion was about .057, which seems to check out.

After flushing it out, I pulled apart the one cartridge that misfired and used its empty case to test. I loaded 20 of the same BR4 primers into that empty case one by one, and they all fired. I tried depths ranging from crushed into the case and staring to deform, to basically hanging out the case, and they all fired.

I also tried messing with the position of the bolt handle to the point of even putting rearward pressure on it while firing. Nothing caused a misfire.

I really should have done that test before flushing the bolt to see if there was a before / after effect, but that didn't occur to me until too late. I don't know, I'm just gonna have to keep shooting and see. I know that if it costs me a coyote, I'm going to be pissed...

 

[shoots100]

Other than the bolt handle and head, I couldn't figure out how to get the bolt apart, and both the Internet and Savage support have not been helpful. So I flushed it out as best I could with Hornady OneShot gun cleaner and compressed air.

Near as I could tell with my calipers, firing pin protrusion was about .057, which seems to check out.

After flushing it out, I pulled apart the one cartridge that misfired and used its empty case to test. I loaded 20 of the same BR4 primers into that empty case one by one, and they all fired. I tried depths ranging from crushed into the case and staring to deform, to basically hanging out the case, and they all fired.

I also tried messing with the position of the bolt handle to the point of even putting rearward pressure on it while firing. Nothing caused a misfire.

I really should have done that test before flushing the bolt to see if there was a before / after effect, but that didn't occur to me until too late. I don't know, I'm just gonna have to keep shooting and see. I know that if it costs me a coyote, I'm going to be pissed...

In the beginning I was going to tinker with the firing pin spring tension to see if it would make it more easier to cycle the bolt.
Since my two predators cycled very smoothly after some break in, I didn't mess with stripping the bolt anymore than you did.
I'm glad you seem to have the issue taken care of, but I would test fire loaded rounds before going afield.

SJC

 

[Longshot231]

In the beginning I was going to tinker with the firing pin spring tension to see if it would make it more easier to cycle the bolt.
Since my two predators cycled very smoothly after some break in, I didn't mess with stripping the bolt anymore than you did.
I'm glad you seem to have the issue taken care of, but I would test fire loaded rounds before going afield.

SJC

I found it much easier to manipulate the bolt by putting an extended handle on it. An additional technique is to place your thumb on the bolt handle right where it joins the shroud.

The fingers will be wrapped part way around the front of the bolt handle and the knob. When it comes time to cycle the bolt, I make sort of a gripping motion with my hand.

In other words, I squeeze with my fingers and press the thumb against the bolt handle near the shroud.

The bolt handle will pivot open as if it were magic. Then pulling it rearward happens almost instantaneously and as if it were second nature.

When pushing the bolt forward, I leave the thumb in place and push with it to initially start the forward movement. It's easier than trying to push forward on the bolt knob solely by the palm and base of the thumb. After the bolt begins the forward movement by pressure from the thumb, the rest of the hand naturally does the rest of the work to get the round chambered and pivoting the bolt handle back in place to lock the bolt.

After all forward movement has stopped and the new round chambered, the hand naturally moves down and i'm able to get my finger on the trigger for the fast follow up shot.

My thumb will be resting near the portion of the bolt handle by the shroud while I engage the trigger. Then the process is repeated after the shot is fired.

That's the technique that works for me and made easier with the extended bolt knob.

BTW, I wasn't a fan of the grenade shaped bolt knob on any of my regular bolt action rifles. So it was laying in the parts box when I decided to give it a try.

I don't think any other shaped knob could do as well as the grenade version.

 

[shoots100]

Most bolt handles are made for turn bolt rifles.
I didn't like any of the bolt handles I tried until I found the type I have now.
I hunt with gloves 99.9% of the time and hooking this style of bolt handle to cycle it with gloves on has been very reliable for me.

SJC

 

[mossler]

Thank for sharing all this knowledge, I just ordered a 6.5 Creedmoor Predator, especially based on the feedback from @shoots100 and the videos @SupressYourself made.

 

[shoots100]

Thank for sharing all this knowledge, I just ordered a 6.5 Creedmoor Predator, especially based on the feedback from @shoots100 and the videos @SupressYourself made.

Good deal.
If your going to hunt with it, I would suggest that you purchase some 5 round magazines, as they are quieter and feed more reliably than the 10 round mags.

SJC

 

[Longshot231]

Thank for sharing all this knowledge, I just ordered a 6.5 Creedmoor Predator, especially based on the feedback from @shoots100 and the videos @SupressYourself made.

Good deal.
If your going to hunt with it, I would suggest that you purchase some 5 round magazines, as they are quieter and feed more reliably than the 10 round mags.

SJC

Here is a video review of the Impulse Predator. He is a little hard to understand and doesn't tell us anything that we don't already know.

However, at about 2:50 he talks about some magazine issues that are worth listening to. In the interest of full disclosure, I do not own the Predator version. So take this for what it's worth.

 

[mossler]

Here is a video review of the Impulse Predator. He is a little hard to understand and doesn't tell us anything that we don't already know.

However, at about 2:50 he talks about some magazine issues that are worth listening to. In the interest of full disclosure, I do not own the Predator version. So take this for what it's worth.

His accent and phrase touring sounds French from France, but his location is very much Canada. His input is very interesting.

Good deal.
If your going to hunt with it, I would suggest that you purchase some 5 round magazines, as they are quieter and feed more reliably than the 10 round mags.

SJC

I will test multiple options, I have a decent collection of MDT made AICS mags.

 

[doc187]

I added a pic rail to the side to mount a swr radius and mdt level. You can drill and tap into the aluminum there. Put some suede on the cheek piece which is nice.

 

[Porksboy]

Good deal.
If your going to hunt with it, I would suggest that you purchase some 5 round magazines, as they are quieter and feed more reliably than the 10 round mags.

SJC

What 5 round mag are you using. My predator in .243 should be in this week.
I'm waiting for Christmas to be over so I have time off work to go to the range and work on some loads.

 

[SupressYourself]

What 5 round mag are you using. My predator in .243 should be in this week.
I'm waiting for Christmas to be over so I have time off work to go to the range and work on some loads.

Can't speak for shoots100, but I have a 5 round MDT mag. It's been flawless. Their 10 rounders are great too. Much shorter than the 10 round Accurate mag the rifle comes with. Get the all metal ones, not the polymer or hybrid.

 

[shoots100]

What 5 round mag are you using. My predator in .243 should be in this week.
I'm waiting for Christmas to be over so I have time off work to go to the range and work on some loads.

As long as it's metal it'll work, but some feed lip adjustments might be needed.
Never used the 10 rd Metal/Poly hybrid magazines, but the Canadian shooter in the previously posted video has had no issue with them.
I prefer the 5 rd magazines.
I concur with SupYou, the all poly MDT magazines don't work in the predator model.

SJC

 

[Porksboy]

Looks to be this knob?

Mountain Tactical Bolt Knob Pineapple Tikka T3 T3x Aluminum Black

Mountain Tactical Bolt Knobs are designed to give you more control over your rifle. A larger diameter bolt knob increases tactility making positive...

www.midwayusa.com