• Frank's Lesson's Contest

    We want to see your skills! Post a video between now and November 1st showing what you've learned from Frank's lessons and 3 people will be selected to win a free shirt. Good luck everyone!

    Create a channel Learn more
  • Having trouble using the site?

    Contact support

Seeking to avoid your "Reload Rookie" mistakes ...

[QUOTE="Wheres-Waldo, post: 8846068, member: 20220"
Don’t put carpet in your reloading room.
[/QUOTE]
This is huge. When your wife decides to vacuum your "filthy gun room" and sucks a primer up and it detonates in the vaccuum and scares the shit out of her there is hell to pay. Ask me how I know. Side note, you would think I would have learned that lesson as a kid when I spilled a box of .22lr into the shag carpet , thought I got them all picked up, and my mom blew a hole out the side of her Hoover. I got my ass beat for that one.

I now have tile floors in the reloading/game room. Makes it easier to sweep up brass shavings, tumbling media, small things that are dropped except for those take down pin detents when assembling AR lowers. Fuck those things, they just disappear.
 
I started reloading after reirement and I have made a few bone head rookie mistakes . Only have the powder your using on the table at a time. . I have ruined powder by pouring the contents of my dispenser back into the wrong bottle. A 2 inch roll of blue painters tape, and felt pen will be your friend "Lable every container and ammo box because there will be many " Document everything as if your going to be on 60 Minutes. Avoid all distractions, and never drink while reloading. Purchase a good chronograph, Magneto Speeds are range friendly and keep a D. O. P. E. book for each rifle. If you shoot two rifles of the same caliber I would select different brass for each rifle. Never assume Powders, primers, bullets will be in stock. Shortages happen all the time. If supplies are available stock up if possible . Isofhunter somes it up the best " Kiss, crawl, walk" Good luck
 
Last edited:
Learn how to use excel. Paper notebooks are great, but I backup all that data onto spreadsheet software. I have a copy stored in the cloud as well. I can search for a load by date, bullet, powder, case, primer, rifle, etc in a second. Have access to my load data anywhere I have cellular service. Formula tables automatically calculate sd, es, avg mv etc. After a few years your notebooks will be come tattered or stained, rained on, coffee spilt, etc. 1’s and 0’s will last longer.

Don’t reload when you are inebriated, half asleep, eating food, etc.

Go slow when priming and metering powder. Priming is the one step in the whole process things can really go wrong. If you get distracted its possible to skip charging a case or double charge. Once all my cases are charged, I’ll look them all over and if any case has a powder fill that looks off it gets dumped back into the pan to be double checked.
Verify your scale is calibrated periodically, cheaper (digital) scales can drift or be affected by static or temperature changes.

Get reloading books...Lyman and Lee are essential in my opinion. They have the largest combination of load data per cartridge than any other publication. There is also detailed sections on the reloading process.
 
my best advice would be to only reload for one calibre at a time, only have one type of projectile out at a time , one powder, one kind of primer and so on....

my biggest ever mistake - that could have blown up a rifel ane maimed me but didnt - was (back when moly coating was all the rage), I moly coated a few hundred 55gn 224 ballistic tips and a few hundred 243 55gn ballistic tips in the same tumbler.... I thought my sorting process was fine, it wasnt. at he range one day, shooting deliberate (not rapid) the bolt on my 223 didnt want to close (so I was able to swap out the round as faulty, and continue the match, if it had happened during rapid, I would have slammed the bolt so fast/hard it would have closed anyway and firing would have become a grenade...) on further inspection, I had seated a .243 projo in a 223 case - possibly catastrophc all because I thought I'd be ok mixing 2 sizes at once. it can be eqully disastrous loading different projo weights, or differing powder burn rates, so my #1 rule is now only 1 at a time. one powder type. one projectile type. one primer type. one seating depth. from start to finnish, do one thing at a time, do it well, confirm that step is complete (measure etc) and then move on to the next step.
 
OK gang ... I started this one, so it's my job to summarize. What follows is my "Top-30" that I'm using to start my journey, although I freely admit that I've already made a few of these mistakes in my 'Procurement' phase. Thanks to everyone that contributed.

Top-30 Reloading Lessons-Learned
  1. Don’t overthink – pick a process and stick with it.
  2. Be selective about powders and primers.
  3. Follow a reliable recipe – not one from an Internet “Know-It-All”.
  4. Properly secure your die bushings.
  5. Don’t buy a bunch of shit you don’t need.
  6. Avoid time-consuming manual handling processes – time matters.
  7. Don’t roll-crimp bullets that don’t have cannelures.
  8. Get reliable data – keep good records.
  9. Find what works, and stick to it. Don’t bounce around to different supplies.
  10. When you’ve got your long-term recipe, buy supplies to out-last your barrel.
  11. Don’t reload while you’re tired or distracted.
  12. Full-length size your cases.
  13. Figure out a good way to organize and document your test strings.
  14. Leave nothing to memory.
  15. Use a flashlight to visually verify powder when done charging a batch of cases.
  16. Use a headspace comparator.
  17. Buy quality measuring tools. Calipers, Scales, etc.
  18. Test and retest a small batch before declaring victory and loading a lot of rounds.
  19. Buy a stuck-bullet remover and a bullet-puller … “before” you need them.
  20. Consider starting with the recipe for a good-shooting factory load for your bullet.
  21. Posting questions on “The Hide” is good because everything gets peer-reviewed.
  22. Don’t forget the case lube, even if you’re only making adjustments to your die.
  23. Buy a couple of highly recommended books, and actually read them.
  24. Change only one thing at a time.
  25. Don’t forget to fully tighten your die lock ring.
  26. If you wet-tumble, make damn sure everything is dry before reloading.
  27. Invest in a good chronograph.
  28. Pick an easy caliber to reload … a larger cartridge ( 6.5, 300, etc.) is easier than smaller stuff.
  29. Use good brass and learn to anneal.
  30. Segregate brass by manufacturer, lot, and number of firings.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rmdashrf
Buy good stuff. Cheap stuff is frustrating to use, it forces your to create distorted processes in order to make the junk work, and you waste time and money.

Keep good records. A three-ring binder is a good option. Not only what you did but why you did it. And what the targets look like. And how big the groups are. That hole right there, is that a clean cold bore shot or a fouled cold bore shot?

Learn your own truths. People say things that just aren't true. Do your own testing and make records.

Start slow and simple. Reloading is not difficult but it has one key challenge - you have to be consistent or your ammo won't shoot worth a damn.

Learn your tools and learn how to do each step the same way every single time. Check as you go along. Look for anomalies.

Invest in quality measuring tools, especially a really good powder scale.

Use a torque wrench.

You are dealing with a lot of lead. Keep the lead out of your bloodstream.

Buy decent ammo boxes. Paper boxes are not good in the rain.

Store your energetics safely. Keep powder and primers is a more-or-less fireproof cabinet.

Someone said it up above - start with a caliber that rewards good technique and punishes you if you do badly - like the 308. Shoot your ammo at 500 yards and at 800 yards. If your rounds are very good, you will have good targets. Otherwise, not so much. This is how you learn to craft good ammo.
 
I'll repeat #26.

Also, make sure you have enough brass. If you have at least 500 cases that have been resized and primed for over a month sitting on the shelf, you won't need to rush wet brass from the tumbler to the range. If you don't want to be hung up processing brass before you can go shoot, make sure there is another 500 behind the first on the shelf. I use "500" loosely. I think most shooters would benefit from at least ~1500 pieces of brass of whatever they shoot. There are some that need a lot more. My point is that having only a few hundred total and trying to reuse the same hundred several times a month is almost always a mistake. If you have enough brass in rotation (not just squirreled away), you will only have to do the mundane tasks like cleaning, drying, lubing, trimming, resizing, priming and so on, very infrequently. If I only had to do those things once a year I'd be happy with that. What I want to spend my time on is powder-charging, and bullet seating, and crimping (in some cases). That's the stuff I want to do in small batches. Everything else is "mass production" and tools and processes that do too few and take too long are just a waste of time #6.

#15. While it is more often a problem with handgun cartridge reloading, have a process that protects against double-charges. Squibs from wet cases or no-charge conditions were also mentioned. You can use lock-out dies, powder checkers, avoid low-volume powders, inspect batches with a light -- just have a failsafe method that double or triple-checks.

#10. But don't determine your long-term recipe too hastily. I've bought 8 pounds or 16 pounds of a powder that after another year I determined I probably don't want to use. Not a big mistake, but I would have hated to have bought more.
 
Congratulations on a well earned retirement!

Not to discourage you but everything related to reloading is in short supply right now. It can be found if you are patient so don't be surprised if you can't find something right now.

After reviewing your top 30 list, it looks pretty good. But there are a few things that need to be at the beginning that are on down the list.

1. Buy some good reloading books and read, read and read. I like the Lyman book. Glen Zediker has some good books out.
2. Develop a routine where you only have one powder on your table top at a time.
3. Verify that the bullet and powder that you want to load are actually what you are using.
4. Don't reload when you are tired, stressed or distracted. If your kids, dog or spouse come in while you are loading, stop loading and deal with them and then go back to loading. Don't multi-task.
5. Keep good records. Back up any electronic records with old fashion paper records. Then you can staple targets or chronograph tapes to them.
You probably noticed that my suggestions are mostly about safety!

Some other things;

Start with good equipment and learn to walk before you try to run. A mentor is nice if you can find a good one. This will also give you a chance to try some equipment before you purchase. You can load ammo thats better than factory ammo with an "O" frame press and a standard 2 die set of dies. Save the neck turning, bushing dies and such until you learn the process. You don't need the most expensive of everything, however its nice to have good stuff. Start with something simple like the 308. Don't try to be a hot rod. If you want your 308 to shoot like a 300 Winchester, use a 300 Winchester. Do some research before you start loading for a new caliber and start with loads that others have found to work well. These are often called "Pet Loads". This will save you money from buying a lot of different powders. In time, you will have a bunch anyway.

The list can go on and on. Feel free to ask questions on here. There is a lot of knowledge and experience on here in many different fields. It might be a good idea to post your proposed equipment list before you purchase anything. This is where I really mis the days before the internet where companies had paper catalogs! To me, its easier to browse a paper catalog than to search through something on-line.

Good Luck and welcome to the hobby.
 
Congratulations on a well earned retirement!

Not to discourage you but everything related to reloading is in short supply right now. It can be found if you are patient so don't be surprised if you can't find something right now.

After reviewing your top 30 list, it looks pretty good. But there are a few things that need to be at the beginning that are on down the list.

1. Buy some good reloading books and read, read and read. I like the Lyman book. Glen Zediker has some good books out.
2. Develop a routine where you only have one powder on your table top at a time.
3. Verify that the bullet and powder that you want to load are actually what you are using.
4. Don't reload when you are tired, stressed or distracted. If your kids, dog or spouse come in while you are loading, stop loading and deal with them and then go back to loading. Don't multi-task.
5. Keep good records. Back up any electronic records with old fashion paper records. Then you can staple targets or chronograph tapes to them.
You probably noticed that my suggestions are mostly about safety!

Some other things;

Start with good equipment and learn to walk before you try to run. A mentor is nice if you can find a good one. This will also give you a chance to try some equipment before you purchase. You can load ammo thats better than factory ammo with an "O" frame press and a standard 2 die set of dies. Save the neck turning, bushing dies and such until you learn the process. You don't need the most expensive of everything, however its nice to have good stuff. Start with something simple like the 308. Don't try to be a hot rod. If you want your 308 to shoot like a 300 Winchester, use a 300 Winchester. Do some research before you start loading for a new caliber and start with loads that others have found to work well. These are often called "Pet Loads". This will save you money from buying a lot of different powders. In time, you will have a bunch anyway.

The list can go on and on. Feel free to ask questions on here. There is a lot of knowledge and experience on here in many different fields. It might be a good idea to post your proposed equipment list before you purchase anything. This is where I really mis the days before the internet where companies had paper catalogs! To me, its easier to browse a paper catalog than to search through something on-line.

Good Luck and welcome to the hobby.
GREAT advice. That said, I skipped right to that "Buy Quality Stuff" category. Most of what I've ordered arrives this week. It includes some of the following big-ticket items:
  • Redding Big Boss 2 Single Stage Press
  • Hornady press bushing quick-load conversion kit
  • Redding Competition 3-Die Set (300-WM and 6.5-CM) w/ Neck-Size Bushings
  • Redding 2400 Case Trimmer
  • RCBS Chargemaster 1500 Powder Dispenser / Scale
  • Frankford Armory Tumbler and Dryer
  • Several bullet weights in 300-WM and 6.5-CM
  • Several powder varieties (mostly 4350 variants)
  • A bunch of measurement devices (OAL, Headspace, Cartridge, etc.)
  • Inline Fabrication bases and stands
  • Annealing Made Perfect Mark-2 (backordered ... wickedly expensive)
  • ... blah blah blah ...
If somebody I read about loved it and it got great reviews ... it's probably on the way. I know I spent way more than necessary, but it's my retirement present to myself, so f**k-it ... I bought it. I'll settle on what I love, and give away the rest to local buddies, or sell it here.

I've done the math and the research and have my strategy for load-spreads and bullet tests. This should keep me busy for "months" ... which is exactly what I was looking for. Build - Shoot - Learn - Rinse & Repeat. That's the game ... right? My goal for this summer is to hit a 1-mile shot with my own handloaded ammo. (Done it a few times with factory loads so I know it's possible.)
 
My rookie mistakes:

1. Not doing load workup (also not really knowing how to do it...). I would look at the min and max charges, split the difference, and start loading a bunch of rounds. Now several years later as I find all those loaded rounds in my ammo fort, I am spending a lot of time tearing those rounds down so I can work up an actual good load.

2. Document everything as others have said. Nothing more frustrating than finding a couple hundred loaded rounds and having to guess what powder and bullet you used. Luckily I only used 2 or 3 powders back in the day so that is easy to identify, but the bullets are a little more of a PITA. Have 100 rounds sitting on my bench now that need to be broken down.

3. Get a headspace comparator so you can actually set your dies correctly.

4. Save your test targets and label them with the load info. I only recently started doing this, and it has been an invaluable reference tool.

5. I have recently been going through my reloading stash (and my ammo fort), selling off the extra stuff that I have no plans to shoot. For example, I don't have the time (or money) to work up 55g, 62g, 68g, 69g, 75g, and 77g loads for my 223 rifle. So I decided to stick with 55g for plinking and 75g for target shooting. Sold the rest and put the money towards buying only those components that I would actually shoot. YMMV, but simple is better when you are starting out. Pick 1 or 2 loads that are known good ones, get those components, work them up, and then if you feel the need to experiment go nuts. But at least you have a stockpile of known good components to fall back on.

6. At least starting out, look at your local gun stores and see what components are regularly in stock. Don't decide that you just have to reload an obscure round with an obscure powder because you saw that veteran reloaders on the internet were doing it. You'll go nuts trying to source the stuff and it will be super expensive. No need to get fancy when you are starting out. Learn with something like the classic load for 223 (25g H335 under a 55g FMJ) that's relatively easy to find, and then expand from there.

7. Build a quality reloading bench. You cannot reinforce the benchtop too much, nor have too much storage space. Give yourself plenty of room to keep your crap organized and spread your tools out so you don't accidentally knock a can of powder on the floor.

8. Ask questions about everything! There is a wealth of information here and on other forums, and despite a few grumpy dickheads most are more than happy to help out a newbie.

9. A good chronograph (I personally use the magnetospeed sporter) is nice to have. I only just got one recently, and I'm wishing I had it a lot sooner.

10. Don't try to start reloading for every caliber you own right away. Pick the one or two calibers you shoot the most (or can readily find components for) and start there. Don't get too hung up on buying every tool you see mentioned here (neck turning equipment, lab quality scales, etc.). Start with quality basic equipment and add from there as you identify a need. Likewise, don't cheap out on your basic equipment either, because you will just realize that you need to replace it soon.

11. Full-length size your brass. Check COAL every time and trim as needed. Don't forget the lube. Clean your dies regularly. A sharp cutting head makes a huge difference when trimming (versus an old duller head). Calibrate your scale every time you use it. Clean your powder dispenser after every use to get all the old powder out. Buy loading trays for each caliber you reload.

12. Keep your expectations realistic. Reloads typically shoot better than factory because they are tuned to your rifle. But don't expect 1/2 MOA accuracy out of an AR15 with a standard carbine barrel, red dot optic, shooting 55g FMJ loads. Not gonna happen, especially if you as the shooter aren't capable of shooting 1/2 MOA consistently. You'll just waste components chasing match grade accuracy with plinker grade components and rifles.

13. If you are reloading for accuracy (as opposed to plinking ammo), pick one brass headstamp and stick with that. I settled on Hornady for 6.5 grendel (not necessarily because it's the best, but I had a lot of it already and its relatively inexpensive) and LC for my 308 bolt gun. Sold off the several hundred random headstamped pieces of brass because I had zero desire to sort my weight and case capacity. Consistency is key, and you want to narrow down the variables that you have to account for as much as possible.
 
My rookie mistakes:

1. Not doing load workup (also not really knowing how to do it...). I would look at the min and max charges, split the difference, and start loading a bunch of rounds. Now several years later as I find all those loaded rounds in my ammo fort, I am spending a lot of time tearing those rounds down so I can work up an actual good load.

2. Document everything as others have said. Nothing more frustrating than finding a couple hundred loaded rounds and having to guess what powder and bullet you used. Luckily I only used 2 or 3 powders back in the day so that is easy to identify, but the bullets are a little more of a PITA. Have 100 rounds sitting on my bench now that need to be broken down.

3. Get a headspace comparator so you can actually set your dies correctly.

4. Save your test targets and label them with the load info. I only recently started doing this, and it has been an invaluable reference tool.

5. I have recently been going through my reloading stash (and my ammo fort), selling off the extra stuff that I have no plans to shoot. For example, I don't have the time (or money) to work up 55g, 62g, 68g, 69g, 75g, and 77g loads for my 223 rifle. So I decided to stick with 55g for plinking and 75g for target shooting. Sold the rest and put the money towards buying only those components that I would actually shoot. YMMV, but simple is better when you are starting out. Pick 1 or 2 loads that are known good ones, get those components, work them up, and then if you feel the need to experiment go nuts. But at least you have a stockpile of known good components to fall back on.

6. At least starting out, look at your local gun stores and see what components are regularly in stock. Don't decide that you just have to reload an obscure round with an obscure powder because you saw that veteran reloaders on the internet were doing it. You'll go nuts trying to source the stuff and it will be super expensive. No need to get fancy when you are starting out. Learn with something like the classic load for 223 (25g H335 under a 55g FMJ) that's relatively easy to find, and then expand from there.

7. Build a quality reloading bench. You cannot reinforce the benchtop too much, nor have too much storage space. Give yourself plenty of room to keep your crap organized and spread your tools out so you don't accidentally knock a can of powder on the floor.

8. Ask questions about everything! There is a wealth of information here and on other forums, and despite a few grumpy dickheads most are more than happy to help out a newbie.

9. A good chronograph (I personally use the magnetospeed sporter) is nice to have. I only just got one recently, and I'm wishing I had it a lot sooner.

10. Don't try to start reloading for every caliber you own right away. Pick the one or two calibers you shoot the most (or can readily find components for) and start there. Don't get too hung up on buying every tool you see mentioned here (neck turning equipment, lab quality scales, etc.). Start with quality basic equipment and add from there as you identify a need. Likewise, don't cheap out on your basic equipment either, because you will just realize that you need to replace it soon.

11. Full-length size your brass. Check COAL every time and trim as needed. Don't forget the lube. Clean your dies regularly. A sharp cutting head makes a huge difference when trimming (versus an old duller head). Calibrate your scale every time you use it. Clean your powder dispenser after every use to get all the old powder out. Buy loading trays for each caliber you reload.

12. Keep your expectations realistic. Reloads typically shoot better than factory because they are tuned to your rifle. But don't expect 1/2 MOA accuracy out of an AR15 with a standard carbine barrel, red dot optic, shooting 55g FMJ loads. Not gonna happen, especially if you as the shooter aren't capable of shooting 1/2 MOA consistently. You'll just waste components chasing match grade accuracy with plinker grade components and rifles.

13. If you are reloading for accuracy (as opposed to plinking ammo), pick one brass headstamp and stick with that. I settled on Hornady for 6.5 grendel (not necessarily because it's the best, but I had a lot of it already and its relatively inexpensive) and LC for my 308 bolt gun. Sold off the several hundred random headstamped pieces of brass because I had zero desire to sort my weight and case capacity. Consistency is key, and you want to narrow down the variables that you have to account for as much as possible.
Great stuff ... by the numbers:
  1. Got my strategy figured out for that.
  2. My log-book is already filling up.
  3. Got one.
  4. Good advice - will do.
  5. Starting with 300-WM and 6.5-CM.
  6. Good advice.
  7. Got it ready to go.
  8. I ask questions ALL the time.
  9. Got a Labradar and a Magnetospeed V3
  10. Same as #5.
  11. Yup ... that's the plan ... full size.
  12. Understood.
  13. Been shooting Hornady factory and keeping the brass ... that's what I'll use.
 
My rookie mistakes:

1. Not doing load workup (also not really knowing how to do it...). I would look at the min and max charges, split the difference, and start loading a bunch of rounds. Now several years later as I find all those loaded rounds in my ammo fort, I am spending a lot of time tearing those rounds down so I can work up an actual good load.

2. Document everything as others have said. Nothing more frustrating than finding a couple hundred loaded rounds and having to guess what powder and bullet you used. Luckily I only used 2 or 3 powders back in the day so that is easy to identify, but the bullets are a little more of a PITA. Have 100 rounds sitting on my bench now that need to be broken down.

3. Get a headspace comparator so you can actually set your dies correctly.

4. Save your test targets and label them with the load info. I only recently started doing this, and it has been an invaluable reference tool.

5. I have recently been going through my reloading stash (and my ammo fort), selling off the extra stuff that I have no plans to shoot. For example, I don't have the time (or money) to work up 55g, 62g, 68g, 69g, 75g, and 77g loads for my 223 rifle. So I decided to stick with 55g for plinking and 75g for target shooting. Sold the rest and put the money towards buying only those components that I would actually shoot. YMMV, but simple is better when you are starting out. Pick 1 or 2 loads that are known good ones, get those components, work them up, and then if you feel the need to experiment go nuts. But at least you have a stockpile of known good components to fall back on.

6. At least starting out, look at your local gun stores and see what components are regularly in stock. Don't decide that you just have to reload an obscure round with an obscure powder because you saw that veteran reloaders on the internet were doing it. You'll go nuts trying to source the stuff and it will be super expensive. No need to get fancy when you are starting out. Learn with something like the classic load for 223 (25g H335 under a 55g FMJ) that's relatively easy to find, and then expand from there.

7. Build a quality reloading bench. You cannot reinforce the benchtop too much, nor have too much storage space. Give yourself plenty of room to keep your crap organized and spread your tools out so you don't accidentally knock a can of powder on the floor.

8. Ask questions about everything! There is a wealth of information here and on other forums, and despite a few grumpy dickheads most are more than happy to help out a newbie.

9. A good chronograph (I personally use the magnetospeed sporter) is nice to have. I only just got one recently, and I'm wishing I had it a lot sooner.

10. Don't try to start reloading for every caliber you own right away. Pick the one or two calibers you shoot the most (or can readily find components for) and start there. Don't get too hung up on buying every tool you see mentioned here (neck turning equipment, lab quality scales, etc.). Start with quality basic equipment and add from there as you identify a need. Likewise, don't cheap out on your basic equipment either, because you will just realize that you need to replace it soon.

11. Full-length size your brass. Check COAL every time and trim as needed. Don't forget the lube. Clean your dies regularly. A sharp cutting head makes a huge difference when trimming (versus an old duller head). Calibrate your scale every time you use it. Clean your powder dispenser after every use to get all the old powder out. Buy loading trays for each caliber you reload.

12. Keep your expectations realistic. Reloads typically shoot better than factory because they are tuned to your rifle. But don't expect 1/2 MOA accuracy out of an AR15 with a standard carbine barrel, red dot optic, shooting 55g FMJ loads. Not gonna happen, especially if you as the shooter aren't capable of shooting 1/2 MOA consistently. You'll just waste components chasing match grade accuracy with plinker grade components and rifles.

13. If you are reloading for accuracy (as opposed to plinking ammo), pick one brass headstamp and stick with that. I settled on Hornady for 6.5 grendel (not necessarily because it's the best, but I had a lot of it already and its relatively inexpensive) and LC for my 308 bolt gun. Sold off the several hundred random headstamped pieces of brass because I had zero desire to sort my weight and case capacity. Consistency is key, and you want to narrow down the variables that you have to account for as much as possible.
Thank you for saving me the time to remember AND one finger this phone...........good stuff you wrote.
 
i use shipping boxes to keep my brass sorted and write on them with a sharpie what stage im at during the prep stage. helps me to not have to remember if ive missed a step in my brass prep. after that its just prime powder and projectile. heres my favorite equipment i upgraded to

frankfort arsenal wet tumbler
frankfort arsenal priming tool
little crow trimmers
good calipers help too
 
Easy

1. Neck tension matters the most - expand new brass and resize ... neck tension is a big deal pay attention to it
2. Dont chase the last node to get every fps - a slight change (temp, volume) will blow up your gun --- do you ladder test, back it off min 1 node, preferably 2 ...
 
Great stuff ... by the numbers:
  1. Got my strategy figured out for that.
  2. My log-book is already filling up.
  3. Got one.
  4. Good advice - will do.
  5. Starting with 300-WM and 6.5-CM.
  6. Good advice.
  7. Got it ready to go.
  8. I ask questions ALL the time.
  9. Got a Labradar and a Magnetospeed V3
  10. Same as #5.
  11. Yup ... that's the plan ... full size.
  12. Understood.
  13. Been shooting Hornady factory and keeping the brass ... that's what I'll use.
Get a good power electonic scale.Thats very consistent. Plus good brass for your 300 mag and 6.5.
 
Surprised no one said the only powder jug that should ever be on your bench is the one you are working out of. Never leave any others on the bench.

This. As an extension, never have more than one just of powder open or in a hopper at one time.

Also. Buy yourself a comparator. Setting seating depth from bullet tip to base is inconsistent.

Trim your brass and FOLLOW YOUR MANUALS.
 
  • Like
Reactions: craigos
Like several have mentioned before me, write it all down, everything, even if it seems trivial, keep GOOD notes in a journal! I keep a journal with tabs for every firearm I reload for, the pages within keep all the information on the rifle, as well as load data, shooting data, and I even keep the targets there, all the notes, from first contemplating loads to notes take at the range during shooting.. I'm always going back and looking from where I started!!