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Gunsmithing Setting up a savage 10p to be a takedown rifle

dawson08

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 27, 2012
249
1
34
West Virginia
I would like to setup my savage 10P to be a takedown rifle that I can put together in the field. I know it has been done before but is there any info out there on how i go about this setup. Im wanting to put it in the AWT chassis so it would be (close) to the EDM Windrunner.
 
Well I know I have atleast six months to get the switch barrel setup complete. Because it will be that long before AWT has the Savage S/A chassis complete.
 
I have heard of guys putting locktite on the barrel nut threads after it is properly headspaced. Then you can screw on the barrel without a go gauge when you take it down. Personally I would still verify with a go gauge. Also get a recessed crown, varmint barrel style. Perhaps quick release scope rings also. I have a lot of barrels I shuffle around on my Savages adn once you get a routine, swapping them becomes speedy.
 
Yeah Ive heard the samething but I cannot seam to find anyone who has actually did this to let me know how it went. Also when I search on the internet I can find alot out about how to do a switch barrel savage (i.e. barrel swap at the house with a vise.) But I'm looking to do this in the FIELD, I could handle taking a barrel wrench and a go gauge with me but a vise and a torque wrench is pushing it alittle I think.
 
Back when I had a few Savages I remember seeing one on a forum that had flats machined near the muzzle, so it could be tightened/loosened with an ordinary wrench. You could stake/locktite the barrel nut on and carry a 5/8" wrench (or whatever size you decide) out into the field.
 
I'm looking forward to your progress. I've assembled a nice little barrel collection over the years and have planned to build something very similar to your description. I'm going to try silver-soldering the barrel nut and mark the nut, barrel, and action with witness marks to try and keep the headspace consistent. The biggest hurdle I foresee is setting up decent optics without investing a fortune. Ideally I would like to have a scope on a quick detach base zeroed for every barrel. I just can't justify $10k in optics on a rifle built out of spare parts and take-off barrels! I refuse to use cheap piece of shit scopes and haven't been impressed by the few that offer multiple zeroes. I guess the best bet will be to keep an extensive data card listing the different zeroes and dope.
 
Sorry, I also don't have any "here's how it worked for me" data for you.

But here's an idea for avoiding packing around a vice: Barrel nut wrench AND some sort of action wrench. From my late teens when a bicycle mechanic'n article I read clued me into ho to avoid banged knuckles when breaking nuts loose, I picked up this gem: Two wrenches (or wrench and a section of the frame) placed close enough together that you grab them both with one hand and just squeeze the daylights out of them.

1. When it busts loose, no fingers are in the danger zone. Movement tends to be self-limiting on the safe side of life.

2. The forces are balanced. Beats chasing your wrench all over the shop as the bike/rifle/whatever wants to move away from your force (and if it's really tough, you can put opposing palms on each, fingers out and away from danger, and put even more force on them).

3. I find that hitting a wrench/whatever arrangement with a death grip often allows more force application than everything except putting the work into a....VICE...and pulling up against the floor. Think steering knuckles for this, exactly what you want to avoid in the field. Beats having your brother-in-law or son stand on the work while you beat the wrench with a small sledgehammer (was in a very, very small town parking lot Sunday afternoon for THAT one).

But a question--why not just a high-quality folding stock chassis, and enjoy your Savage's barrel-change functions without it being a full take-down? Or is it just impossible to remove the barrel without also taking it out of the stock? Sorry for such a noob Q, but I just haven't spent any time with the Savages.
 
Back when I had a few Savages I remember seeing one on a forum that had flats machined near the muzzle, so it could be tightened/loosened with an ordinary wrench. You could stake/locktite the barrel nut on and carry a 5/8" wrench (or whatever size you decide) out into the field.

Larry Racine at lprgunsmith.com did mine. Takes less than a minute to change barrels.
 
But a question--why not just a high-quality folding stock chassis, and enjoy your Savage's barrel-change functions without it being a full take-down? Or is it just impossible to remove the barrel without also taking it out of the stock? Sorry for such a noob Q, but I just haven't spent any time with the Savages.

I plain on purchasing a chassis with the folding option but with the switch barrel I can change calibers and break the rifle down to a lower profile for transporting.