Smooth-Kote
- Thread starter TacticalRem
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Re: Smooth-Kote
Yeh mate I have used it.
I would tie a bag over the end of my barrel to catch any drips and slashes as the bore mop leaves the muzzle.
I have a dedicated mop also for Smooth Kote.
I have achieved some of my best groups using smooth Kote. Its probably just coincidence however.
Wet a bore mop or path with smooth kote and just run it up and down a clean bore for about a minute.
Let it dry for two hours and shes ready to shoot.
You can use BP2000 powder as well but its not needed.
Yeh mate I have used it.
I would tie a bag over the end of my barrel to catch any drips and slashes as the bore mop leaves the muzzle.
I have a dedicated mop also for Smooth Kote.
I have achieved some of my best groups using smooth Kote. Its probably just coincidence however.
Wet a bore mop or path with smooth kote and just run it up and down a clean bore for about a minute.
Let it dry for two hours and shes ready to shoot.
You can use BP2000 powder as well but its not needed.
Re: Smooth-Kote
I use the moly powder after the Smooth-cote dries. Much easier to clean and very little to no fouling.I shot a group at 300 yds. Cleaned it with 8 x's. Not sure it is the smoothe-cote doing that but the gun seems to shoot better.
I use the moly powder after the Smooth-cote dries. Much easier to clean and very little to no fouling.I shot a group at 300 yds. Cleaned it with 8 x's. Not sure it is the smoothe-cote doing that but the gun seems to shoot better.
Re: Smooth-Kote
I'm interested in this too.,.. Am I correct using smooth kote instead of oil in the barrel or should I be cleaning, smooth koting and then running a patch with oil on too?
I thoroughly clean every 200 rounds and just use a boresnake in between.. again, should I be throwing some oil down there or not?
One thing I can't get used to with SK.. I have always (since my military days) cleaned a rifle barrel until I can get a wet patch through and out the other end clean... once I'm at that point I run few dry patches through and then oil.. I gave my rifle her first major clean since I put the Smooth Kote on... after 2 hours of patching, brushing and still not getting a clean patch through (black on the patches which I assume is moly) I gave up and re Smoothe Koted her...
Am I trying to apply the wrong method here? Should I be trying to strip the barrel back to bare metal before re-applying during a 'deep clean?'
Any help gratefully accepted.
Paul
I'm interested in this too.,.. Am I correct using smooth kote instead of oil in the barrel or should I be cleaning, smooth koting and then running a patch with oil on too?
I thoroughly clean every 200 rounds and just use a boresnake in between.. again, should I be throwing some oil down there or not?
One thing I can't get used to with SK.. I have always (since my military days) cleaned a rifle barrel until I can get a wet patch through and out the other end clean... once I'm at that point I run few dry patches through and then oil.. I gave my rifle her first major clean since I put the Smooth Kote on... after 2 hours of patching, brushing and still not getting a clean patch through (black on the patches which I assume is moly) I gave up and re Smoothe Koted her...
Am I trying to apply the wrong method here? Should I be trying to strip the barrel back to bare metal before re-applying during a 'deep clean?'
Any help gratefully accepted.
Paul
Re: Smooth-Kote
Paul,
I thought about that after my post! I hope someone answers the question because I too wonder after smooth kote what the procedure is to clean. Thanks for asking!
Lance
Paul,
I thought about that after my post! I hope someone answers the question because I too wonder after smooth kote what the procedure is to clean. Thanks for asking!
Lance
Re: Smooth-Kote
With the smooth kote, cleaning is standard.
Run a wet patch of solvent down, and then clean patches until little to no black color.
Then reapply the smooth kote.
A word on using the product tho... its intended to reduce fouling and act as a DRY lube, so if your cleaning on the same frequency or have some humidity around dont use the product.
Moly attracts water so your barrel will rust up easier.
If you clean frequently then it doesnt matter so much.
But IMO the purpose of smooth kote shows when your either shooting really hot loads OR you run in comps where you can afford to clean between shoots.
With the smooth kote, cleaning is standard.
Run a wet patch of solvent down, and then clean patches until little to no black color.
Then reapply the smooth kote.
A word on using the product tho... its intended to reduce fouling and act as a DRY lube, so if your cleaning on the same frequency or have some humidity around dont use the product.
Moly attracts water so your barrel will rust up easier.
If you clean frequently then it doesnt matter so much.
But IMO the purpose of smooth kote shows when your either shooting really hot loads OR you run in comps where you can afford to clean between shoots.
Re: Smooth-Kote
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">With the smooth kote, cleaning is standard.
Run a wet patch of solvent down, and then clean patches until little to no black color.
Then reapply the smooth kote.
A word on using the product tho... its intended to reduce fouling and act as a DRY lube, so if your cleaning on the same frequency or have some humidity around dont use the product.
Moly attracts water so your barrel will rust up easier.
If you clean frequently then it doesnt matter so much.
But IMO the purpose of smooth kote shows when your either shooting really hot loads OR you run in comps where you can afford to clean between shoots. </div></div>
Ooo...that's interesting, specially the attracting water bit! one thing we have lots of in the uk is water! So, that begs the question(s)...
1.) do I run an oil soaked patch over the top of the smooth kote when she's away in the gun locker
2.) do I simply not bother with SK and go back to good old gun oil
3.) if the answer to 2 is 'yes' how do I completely strip all the SK from my barrel with the minimum amount of effort?
Also.......
You seem to have contradicted yoursel in your post (sorry if I've misunderstood)
You say (and my reason for using it in the first place) that the point of SK is to reduce fouling... and thus, to my mind, increase shot intervals between cleaning.. I personally haven't got the patience or inclination to clean after every 10-20 rounds like some of my buddies... 1-200 is more like it and even then it's a chore! my TRG is still tack driving at that point but feel I 'should' clean at that point rather than 'need' to clean. On the last clean I could see absolutely no sign of copper fouling (after 230 rds) but then, the patches were coming out black from the SK so may have been hidden in that!
But...
Then you go on to say that the advantages are more with hot loads (can see that but doesn't apply to me) or comps where frequent cleaning is possible... that seems to defeat the whole purpose of the product?
Paul
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">With the smooth kote, cleaning is standard.
Run a wet patch of solvent down, and then clean patches until little to no black color.
Then reapply the smooth kote.
A word on using the product tho... its intended to reduce fouling and act as a DRY lube, so if your cleaning on the same frequency or have some humidity around dont use the product.
Moly attracts water so your barrel will rust up easier.
If you clean frequently then it doesnt matter so much.
But IMO the purpose of smooth kote shows when your either shooting really hot loads OR you run in comps where you can afford to clean between shoots. </div></div>
Ooo...that's interesting, specially the attracting water bit! one thing we have lots of in the uk is water! So, that begs the question(s)...
1.) do I run an oil soaked patch over the top of the smooth kote when she's away in the gun locker
2.) do I simply not bother with SK and go back to good old gun oil
3.) if the answer to 2 is 'yes' how do I completely strip all the SK from my barrel with the minimum amount of effort?
Also.......
You seem to have contradicted yoursel in your post (sorry if I've misunderstood)
You say (and my reason for using it in the first place) that the point of SK is to reduce fouling... and thus, to my mind, increase shot intervals between cleaning.. I personally haven't got the patience or inclination to clean after every 10-20 rounds like some of my buddies... 1-200 is more like it and even then it's a chore! my TRG is still tack driving at that point but feel I 'should' clean at that point rather than 'need' to clean. On the last clean I could see absolutely no sign of copper fouling (after 230 rds) but then, the patches were coming out black from the SK so may have been hidden in that!
But...
Then you go on to say that the advantages are more with hot loads (can see that but doesn't apply to me) or comps where frequent cleaning is possible... that seems to defeat the whole purpose of the product?
Paul
Re: Smooth-Kote
Well with hot loads, running SK, your less likely to see pressure signs as the SK drops pressure ever so slightly. So, for those with troublesome rifles that consistently get plagued with pressure signs SK may just help.
You get the guys at comps that use moly because of the cleaning aspect right? well those guys are the one who would see an advantage of using SK.
To clean it out just follow standard routine. But yeh the black moly color does disguise true fouling and the blue color of copper on solvents.
For long term storage I recomend removing the SK and using oils instead.
If your in a dry dusty environment, avoid the oils and use SK. SK wont attract dust/sand like oils will.
Come to think of it, SK offers a huge advantage to shooters in Iraq and Ghan.
Well with hot loads, running SK, your less likely to see pressure signs as the SK drops pressure ever so slightly. So, for those with troublesome rifles that consistently get plagued with pressure signs SK may just help.
You get the guys at comps that use moly because of the cleaning aspect right? well those guys are the one who would see an advantage of using SK.
To clean it out just follow standard routine. But yeh the black moly color does disguise true fouling and the blue color of copper on solvents.
For long term storage I recomend removing the SK and using oils instead.
If your in a dry dusty environment, avoid the oils and use SK. SK wont attract dust/sand like oils will.
Come to think of it, SK offers a huge advantage to shooters in Iraq and Ghan.
Re: Smooth-Kote
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If your in a dry dusty environment, avoid the oils and use SK. SK wont attract dust/sand like oils will.
Come to think of it, SK offers a huge advantage to shooters in Iraq and Ghan.</div></div>
thats probally why another Sentry Solutions product (tough cloth)is Issued and used by more than 60,000 troops to replace CLP during operations in Afghanistan and Iraq.
i have all 3 products, SK, BP2000, and the tough cloth, i love them all...
i do think i see a reduction in fowling, but who really knows.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If your in a dry dusty environment, avoid the oils and use SK. SK wont attract dust/sand like oils will.
Come to think of it, SK offers a huge advantage to shooters in Iraq and Ghan.</div></div>
thats probally why another Sentry Solutions product (tough cloth)is Issued and used by more than 60,000 troops to replace CLP during operations in Afghanistan and Iraq.
i have all 3 products, SK, BP2000, and the tough cloth, i love them all...
i do think i see a reduction in fowling, but who really knows.
Re: Smooth-Kote
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Whisky Shot</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If your in a dry dusty environment, avoid the oils and use SK. SK wont attract dust/sand like oils will.
Come to think of it, SK offers a huge advantage to shooters in Iraq and Ghan.</div></div>
thats probally why another Sentry Solutions product (tough cloth)is Issued and used by more than 60,000 troops to replace CLP during operations in Afghanistan and Iraq.
i have all 3 products, SK, BP2000, and the tough cloth, i love them all...
i do think i see a reduction in fowling, but who really knows. </div></div>
And do you use SK in place of oil or do you still run an oily patch through the barrel before storage?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Whisky Shot</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If your in a dry dusty environment, avoid the oils and use SK. SK wont attract dust/sand like oils will.
Come to think of it, SK offers a huge advantage to shooters in Iraq and Ghan.</div></div>
thats probally why another Sentry Solutions product (tough cloth)is Issued and used by more than 60,000 troops to replace CLP during operations in Afghanistan and Iraq.
i have all 3 products, SK, BP2000, and the tough cloth, i love them all...
i do think i see a reduction in fowling, but who really knows. </div></div>
And do you use SK in place of oil or do you still run an oily patch through the barrel before storage?
Re: Smooth-Kote
I can see the logic in this statement
Traditionally gun oil was used to solve both lubrication and corrosion problems. There have been many gun oils available commercially. While many of these products feature special additives and formulations and claim to do miraculous things, they all share one common undisputed similarity- They all work when wet.
I'm looking through the product manual to see if they address this issue
So far I have not applied the sk to guns in storage
It's only used in my pistols and remmy 700/788 which I usually
Shoot e every week or two. I have used the tough cloth on the storage firearms on the outside and I like it
But ive only used these products for about six months
I can see the logic in this statement
Traditionally gun oil was used to solve both lubrication and corrosion problems. There have been many gun oils available commercially. While many of these products feature special additives and formulations and claim to do miraculous things, they all share one common undisputed similarity- They all work when wet.
I'm looking through the product manual to see if they address this issue
So far I have not applied the sk to guns in storage
It's only used in my pistols and remmy 700/788 which I usually
Shoot e every week or two. I have used the tough cloth on the storage firearms on the outside and I like it
But ive only used these products for about six months
Re: Smooth-Kote
I do know that when applying sk you need to clean your barrel of all oil residue before application. And to wear some latex gloves the moly is suspended in some alcohol solution which dries and leaves the moly behind
I usually push a clean dry patches through after a day at the range and strip it off and reapply about every 200-300 rounds
It will come off with usual solvents I'm not sure if oil after application will affect i
From sentrysol
MARINE TUF-CLOTH was developed at the request of Navy SEALs for ocean use. Based on TUF-CLOTH, but formulated with additional ingredients to enhance protection against highly corrosive saltwater and high humidity. Use MARINE TUF-CLOTH when your gear is faced with extreme conditions or long-term storage
I do know the tuf cloths products say that you can use it as an all purpose cleaner and Lubercator in the field but heavy scrubbing wil remove smoothkote
Im not sure sk was designed as a long term storage solution
I do know that when applying sk you need to clean your barrel of all oil residue before application. And to wear some latex gloves the moly is suspended in some alcohol solution which dries and leaves the moly behind
I usually push a clean dry patches through after a day at the range and strip it off and reapply about every 200-300 rounds
It will come off with usual solvents I'm not sure if oil after application will affect i
From sentrysol
MARINE TUF-CLOTH was developed at the request of Navy SEALs for ocean use. Based on TUF-CLOTH, but formulated with additional ingredients to enhance protection against highly corrosive saltwater and high humidity. Use MARINE TUF-CLOTH when your gear is faced with extreme conditions or long-term storage
I do know the tuf cloths products say that you can use it as an all purpose cleaner and Lubercator in the field but heavy scrubbing wil remove smoothkote
Im not sure sk was designed as a long term storage solution
Re: Smooth-Kote
But to answer your question I do not run oil through after sk
I let it cure up about two hours and shoot it
My shooting frequency allows me not to have worried about that
But I am concerned with the above posters comments on how moly attracts water
I live in bassicly a desert don't worry about high humidity levels
But to answer your question I do not run oil through after sk
I let it cure up about two hours and shoot it
My shooting frequency allows me not to have worried about that
But I am concerned with the above posters comments on how moly attracts water
I live in bassicly a desert don't worry about high humidity levels
Re: Smooth-Kote
Only use SK, do not run oil at the same time.
If you have humidity in your area, and your guns go for storage for a couple of months between, pass on the moly.
Only use SK, do not run oil at the same time.
If you have humidity in your area, and your guns go for storage for a couple of months between, pass on the moly.
Re: Smooth-Kote
the thing to remember about moly is that there are two variations of it. Inhibited and un-inhibited. The UN will set you up for galvanic action (known as rust/pitting) as it is much cheaper to manufacture.
to my knowledge there is only one source of inhibited moly and that is Sandstrom Inc in Port Byron, Illinois. They have air cure and heat cure variations of it.
It can be had in pint cans and it is thicker than smooth coat so you have to apply it with that in mind. I have some but for another use and haven't got around to putting it in barrel as yet.
I am thinking it might do great things in buttoned barrels with the thousands of rings left in barrel after they are reamed and fill these up with moly instead of the carbon as now occurs.
One of the above posters said he keeps getting black patches out and I have found this with some barrels that have rough surfaces from the reaming or heat checking from lots of rounds and they just won't ever clean up. I have one barrel I made over a hundred passes with bronze brush trying to clean and it never gave me a clean patch or anywhere near one.
the thing to remember about moly is that there are two variations of it. Inhibited and un-inhibited. The UN will set you up for galvanic action (known as rust/pitting) as it is much cheaper to manufacture.
to my knowledge there is only one source of inhibited moly and that is Sandstrom Inc in Port Byron, Illinois. They have air cure and heat cure variations of it.
It can be had in pint cans and it is thicker than smooth coat so you have to apply it with that in mind. I have some but for another use and haven't got around to putting it in barrel as yet.
I am thinking it might do great things in buttoned barrels with the thousands of rings left in barrel after they are reamed and fill these up with moly instead of the carbon as now occurs.
One of the above posters said he keeps getting black patches out and I have found this with some barrels that have rough surfaces from the reaming or heat checking from lots of rounds and they just won't ever clean up. I have one barrel I made over a hundred passes with bronze brush trying to clean and it never gave me a clean patch or anywhere near one.
Re: Smooth-Kote
Here's a forum link that pretty much says it all. Rock Creek Barrels burnishes all their barrels with Smooth Kote and BP2000.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1562996&page=all
Here's a forum link that pretty much says it all. Rock Creek Barrels burnishes all their barrels with Smooth Kote and BP2000.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1562996&page=all
Re: Smooth-Kote
so as someone who lives in FL and shoots his rifle once a month, smooth kote might not be the best idea due to humidity? (well the rifles are in the house, which is A/C'd so it's not like the condo is high on humidity...
I'm gonna order the armorer's kit that has everything in it. I can use the grease on lugs, and also the rails on my pistols. then the tough cloth on the outside of the barrel and my 1911 and the SW MP's slides.
I understand how to apply the smooth kote (with jag of bore mop) but not sure about the bp2000. use a jag and coat the patch with the powder? or use another dedicated bore mop for it?
so as someone who lives in FL and shoots his rifle once a month, smooth kote might not be the best idea due to humidity? (well the rifles are in the house, which is A/C'd so it's not like the condo is high on humidity...
I'm gonna order the armorer's kit that has everything in it. I can use the grease on lugs, and also the rails on my pistols. then the tough cloth on the outside of the barrel and my 1911 and the SW MP's slides.
I understand how to apply the smooth kote (with jag of bore mop) but not sure about the bp2000. use a jag and coat the patch with the powder? or use another dedicated bore mop for it?
