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Gunsmithing Solder for M700 bolt handle?

Wannashootit

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Sep 3, 2010
    2,122
    457
    FL
    Attaching OEM handle to new one-piece bolt body.
    Do you guys use Hi-Force 44, or Silvaloy 355?
    If strong enough, I'd rather use the lower silver content/melting point for obvious reasons.

    No TIG. I do have a MIG and was thinking about that route, but think soldering would be the easier of the two (less cleanup/dremel work)
     
    I'm a stubborn fuck...the only work I've ever "subbed" out is barrel fluting.
    But given that TIG is the better way to go over solder -I'll swallow my pride, take the advice and send it to Accu-Tig 👍
     
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    Silvalloy 355. Works great. Never had a handle break loose (under normal use).

    ACtC-3eeCrb9XX_hzwTbfFV44M0Vrez1bbxnmbBDHlk6TihEcpReejULBT_Vq7odEHyL09hi5QQbIvCOi_hGnjZ65QoUM-yDhKzyS0FwIk19OfjC0kvkHvw0SuyT2JnONY_oXw2NptEzTXH39nT7CDkGojumCA=w1170-h877-no


    ACtC-3cPSgiXT8CP_j-avv506yCRl3XAhdCeIlhZ6A7Hs12hupX5W0P1DmdM8cQ5svupbYhyHlj4drl7d5gSO0OIJBh-9m8jAaU2PswgovZXIYWgK4511ThZfTBsHXRfWAE-en_ykTylq_cD7K1_wakCAp7Y5g=w1185-h877-no
     
    The good news with LRI is your timing is perfect and it wont break at the weld.

    My sample size of 3 says the know whats up.

    I like to do my own stuff too, even cut/jackhammered concrete in a basement to reroute plumbing.
    But this is good for the “phone a pro” part of life.
     
    How much heat does Silvalloy 355 require, what does that heat do to the temper/tensile strength of the bolt ?
     
    As you can see from the photo, the heat affected zone is well away from the lugs; probably less than 1.5 inches from the handle.
     
    Gene,

    I will not be able to Cerakote the bolt, 3 thou total clearance in the boltway.
    I have MIG'd and soldered many "other than 700" bolts before- but always Cerakoted to deal with the discoloration.

    This is the main reason I'm leaning towards having it TIG'd, HAZ discoloration will be minimal, if any.
    Never tried to polish out the heat discoloration from a torch- can it be done effectively?

    How much heat does Silvalloy 355 require, what does that heat do to the temper/tensile strength of the bolt ?

    355 flows at just over 1200 degrees. Hi-Force at 475, which I use on sights. This is why I asked whether the 44 would be strong enough, there won't be any discoloration on the bolt body. Heat stop paste ensures heat high enough to affect temper doesn't reach the lugs- which it likely wouldn't anyway given the distance involved.
     
    A little off topic, but I'll chime in since it directly relates to this.

    Near as I can tell, there have been at least 5 different handle revisions to the Remington M700 action. When the RR prefix receivers hit the floors around 15 or so years ago a change was made. With that change the vendor from where they were sourced also migrated. Something happened during that time because the PE cam surface was altered. -quite radically.

    I have worked closely with Remington at the executive level to try and resolve this. That is supposed to happen in the near future.

    Regardless, it still leaves us with a few million of these things floating around that often suffer from anemic primary extraction. I offer two levels of service for this. I call them "Time and Tig" and "Time and Tig with Time Advance."

    Time and Tig:

    I pull the handled and scoot it around until I achieve the best PE possible without altering the PE cam. This is the most popular and gets it "sorta right." The handles we do here are both welded and soldered. Welding does the heavy lifting as its done at the root of the shear point between the base of the handle and the bolt body. It's then sweated with SS to adhere the "strap" portion of the handle so that there's twice the adhesion.

    T&T with Time Advance:

    This is a bit more forensic. I zap the PE cam surface with some air-hardening filler rod using a tig welder and then machine the lump back into the cam geometry so that it is actually tangent to the cam surface of the receiver. Doing all of this also advances the cam timing so that it engages sooner relative to the bolt's rotation. The idea is to take advantage of what is possible in full and spread the linear, rearward motion of the bolt over a longer duration of handle rotation to reduce the amount of effort required from the shooter. Once fitted up, it's also attached in the same manner as the more affordable service.

    It's about 3x the labor. Even with fixturing it requires a bit of handwork with files and stones to get right. Because the material hardens intentionally, it's not the easiest job to do, and it's harder on stuff. (tooling)

    The other solution I have:

    Replace the handle completely. Last year I bought a metric shit ton of obsolete parts from Remmy. One was a gold mine find. Genuine NOS (New Old Stock) 40x handles in carbon and stainless. (RH only, sorry Lefties, your shit out of luck) These have more meat to them and the PE cam surface is correctly done. Whenever possible I prefer to just install these as its about the same money for the work and I don't have to curse as much. :)

    You can find these services and parts on our store.

    Happy to help.

    C.
     
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    A little off topic, but I'll chime in since it directly relates to this.

    Replace the handle completely. Last year I bought a metric shit ton of obsolete parts from Remmy. One was a gold mine find. Genuine NOS (New Old Stock) 40x handles in carbon and stainless. (RH only, sorry Lefties, your shit out of luck) These have more meat to them and the PE cam surface is correctly done. Whenever possible I prefer to just install these as its about the same money for the work and I don't have to curse as much. :)

    You can find these services and parts on our store.

    Happy to help.

    C.
    Keep one of the 40x handles to start making copies to keep doing what your doing and to sell to us small guys !
     
    I almost never reuse a Remington bolt handle. PTG handles are superior to any stock handle IMO. Lots of primary extraction ramp. No need to TIG on the action. Chad's mod may make better ramp contact and probably a smoother overall experience, so I'm not discounting it at all. It's just much more bang for the buck with a PTG handle.
     
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