Ok, so you took the lid off and sprayed both sides then wiped off and re-installed the lid then?
- Thread starter BuildingConceptsllc
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I didn't test it for as long as I would loading, but I did test the barefoot loading thing and it definitely has an impact. So far so good. When I have more to load I will test it again and report back. I guess I'm going to be.... BareFoot_Loader
Yes, final answer.
it's my nature to be very specific.... I will definitely give that a try.
Yep I wear crocs around the house. They are static producers. Off they come and I grab the bathroom water facet before loading.
Oddly, even though I live in semi arid Wyoming and sometimes a bolt of lightning will leap to my cats nose
, I have not had any issues reloading. No dryer sheets or clinging powder of any kind. 
Not a problem in my part of Bama.... hopefully there's no Legos near your reloading area!!
Well.... I have a 1 year old boy and a 5 year old boy, so there's pretty much always something to kick or step on. They aren't allowed downstairs without me though, which is where my office and my reloading area is so, I should be somewhat safe from that unfortunate experience I've become so familiar with.
Dilute some fabric softener in a misting bottle. Use it like Franks....on everything. Spray down your floor, wipe your counters with it....everything.
Buy an anti-static mat that has an ankle or wrist bracelet for you to be attached to it with. Same for the scale. Amazon link because it was easy:
This all being said, I have pretty much the same setup you have but have had zero issues.
Buy an anti-static mat that has an ankle or wrist bracelet for you to be attached to it with. Same for the scale. Amazon link because it was easy:
This all being said, I have pretty much the same setup you have but have had zero issues.
Florescent lights can cause drifting issues (EMI from the lights).
Plastic funnels and plastic reloading blocks can cause drifting (static generated from the plastic).
As stated earlier, you could have EMI/RFI/Noise induced through your electrical line from other sources in the house like the A/C unit, TV, WiFi router, etc. A simple fix is a $6 ferrite choke / balun.
As stated earlier, wear 100% cotton. Synthetic clothing causes static.
Walking on a carpet causes static.
Just a suggestion, leave your scale on 24/7, as it doesn't use that much lower to be concerned with.
Plastic funnels and plastic reloading blocks can cause drifting (static generated from the plastic).
As stated earlier, you could have EMI/RFI/Noise induced through your electrical line from other sources in the house like the A/C unit, TV, WiFi router, etc. A simple fix is a $6 ferrite choke / balun.
As stated earlier, wear 100% cotton. Synthetic clothing causes static.
Walking on a carpet causes static.
Just a suggestion, leave your scale on 24/7, as it doesn't use that much lower to be concerned with.
Which scale or you using?
I have an anti-static pad under my Chargemaster and never have any problems. The only small problem I ever have is a few grains clinging to walls of powder tank when emptying out. An artist's paintbrush knocks those right down.
Yeah, I have the anti static mat that's in the picture with the little grounding wire but it didn't seem to do much. However, I got a bad ass power cleaner strip and if I take off my shoes and socks it's all good now. No more problem. Not sure if it's the shoes and socks or the power cleaner or both, and I probably won't ever attempt to find out honestly.... just call me the barefoot loader from now on....
Just ordered one from B&H. Fuck Amazon and their 7 day Prime shipping….
StarTech Desktop Anti-Static Mat (Beige)
Buy StarTech Desktop Anti-Static Mat (Beige) featuring Anti-Static PVC Top Layer, PVC Foam Bottom Layer, RoHS Compliant. Review StarTech null
Was driving around got thinking about This. I’m thinking grounding strip attached to the bench that you can ground your scale yourself and other equipment to. And then ground the grounding strip to earth just like they do at your house, would have to drill in basement floor is the only down side. Just a thought isolating your bench.
I'm not all that far from my ground rod... I could ground to it with a 10ga wire and probably get a decent ground. I don't know how good of a ground I've really got doing it via a plug
Normally I find myself answering questions on ESD affecting electronics such as Building a computer – Last job before retiring was working on a couple of Satellites inside a clean room.
Biggest factors on ES build-up:
Yuchengtech Ionizing air Blowing Static Eliminator Fan Antistatic Ionizer ESD Electrostatic discharge.
Or something similar. Would need to shield the measuring surface from the air current.
Biggest factors on ES build-up:
- Material – Non-conductive (ie Plastics) vs Conductive (ie metals). Amount of build-up depends on how far apart the two materials are (there is a chart). Easy to get rid of ES on conductive materials (PS body is conductive) by using a grounding system – wrist strap for Body – does NOT remove ES from clothing. NON-conductive materials is harder to remove as grounding is much less effective. Just air currents across Plastics will generate an ES charge, let alone gun powder moving across the plastic (or Glass).
- RH. As RH drops below 50 % the problem become more pragmatic. A below 30% requires the use of an ionizer (for sensitive electronics). Note: A RH of 50 % at 75 degrees F is NOT the same as 50% @ 65 F. I live close to the coast in Va, have 3 humidifiers going and My RH is still in the low 40’s to upper 30 %.
Yuchengtech Ionizing air Blowing Static Eliminator Fan Antistatic Ionizer ESD Electrostatic discharge.
Or something similar. Would need to shield the measuring surface from the air current.
Added - Found this, which may be more effective at removing ES charge on Plastic/glass. Can be used periodically
Produces both + and Neg Ions
Produces both + and Neg Ions
The wire to ground rod is a good fix and inexpensive.
If you have an office chair you are using that could be a source of static. Some of the materials they use produce static and the hard plastic rollers probably insulate it from floor.
You could rig a wire jumper that drags the floor cheaply. A flat braided wire with the end soldered to keep from unraveling would last longer but I wouldn't spend much just to see if it helps.
I use this one.. We also use their products for our lab scales at work.
It's you. If that is what happens then you are discharging static when you take your shoes off. One thing I have done on high static days is make sure their is plenty of humidity in the load room and then take a shower, which gets rid of your static build up. I would also spray my clothes inside and out with static guard then go to work.
For some that don't know the important points.
A surge protector helps protect appliances, we can call that one level of protection. A battery back up unit I will call level 2 protection.
A power surge (lightning) can actually blow up the battery inside the unit and your electronics can survive as has been done twice in my house.
Electronics that were on surge only protection bit it and ones on battery backup survived, even though the bbu needed replaced.
Going through the battery cleans the power to a reasonable degree as well for sensitive equipment (scales).
An actual line conditioner is a different device and does that single task better if you have a large amount of (noise) interference.
To my knowledge a simple power strip surge protector does not cut interference.
A surge protector helps protect appliances, we can call that one level of protection. A battery back up unit I will call level 2 protection.
A power surge (lightning) can actually blow up the battery inside the unit and your electronics can survive as has been done twice in my house.
Electronics that were on surge only protection bit it and ones on battery backup survived, even though the bbu needed replaced.
Going through the battery cleans the power to a reasonable degree as well for sensitive equipment (scales).
An actual line conditioner is a different device and does that single task better if you have a large amount of (noise) interference.
To my knowledge a simple power strip surge protector does not cut interference.
Most Battery Back-up units do NOT use (go thru) the battery except when the AC input fails. I did have one that the output was always from the battery (and regulated) - expensive yes. An UPS does a better job reducing RFI and clipping spikes than "power Strips". Except for the more expensive UPS, they do not provide a regulated AC output when running on the AC line voltage, so if the AC input fluctuates then so does the output. Another factor to consider is the output waveform, Lower cost UPSs have what is called a modified sinewave output, which can over time destroy some electronic devices.
UPS are great for Computers and Most TVs and other similar devices. What I've gone to for my Scales is a dedicated DC power supply (regulated adjustable output that is also current limited) that plugs in to my computer UPS.
UPS are great for Computers and Most TVs and other similar devices. What I've gone to for my Scales is a dedicated DC power supply (regulated adjustable output that is also current limited) that plugs in to my computer UPS.
Well boys.... the barefootloader now just has static with cold feet.... this makes it awful to load. Let me tell you guys what I did and maybe some smart person on here can help me. I'm willing to go to some extremes at this point. This sux
I tried switching to the standard cover instead of the 419 clear lid.
I have a really nice power cleaner strip
I have an anti static mat with the leads that I've tried clipping to various items including the Matt, the scale, the dropper , the trickler. ..
I have left my scale on full time.
I haven't sprayed any anti static stuff but have used dryer sheets to no real advantage.
It seems ok until I start loading. It almost seems like the trickler builds static or something because it work fine for 6-10 rounds and then starts creeping in. It dissipates quickly, then not so quickly, then it doesn't go away at all. If I leave it alone and go sit down it will go away and drop. I'm at a total loss....
Would putting it all in steel and that sitting on the ground work? I could weld something up if it would...
I tried switching to the standard cover instead of the 419 clear lid.
I have a really nice power cleaner strip
I have an anti static mat with the leads that I've tried clipping to various items including the Matt, the scale, the dropper , the trickler. ..
I have left my scale on full time.
I haven't sprayed any anti static stuff but have used dryer sheets to no real advantage.
It seems ok until I start loading. It almost seems like the trickler builds static or something because it work fine for 6-10 rounds and then starts creeping in. It dissipates quickly, then not so quickly, then it doesn't go away at all. If I leave it alone and go sit down it will go away and drop. I'm at a total loss....
Would putting it all in steel and that sitting on the ground work? I could weld something up if it would...
Have you tried the all cotton clothing thing yet?
I don't recall seeing anything.
Lots of shirts and hoodies are rayon/nylon and just create a lot of static.
Spraying your floor with anti static spray should let you put your shoes back on.
They do make conductive shoes and they are fantastic. You still need cotton clothing for it to work.
I don't recall seeing anything.
Lots of shirts and hoodies are rayon/nylon and just create a lot of static.
Spraying your floor with anti static spray should let you put your shoes back on.
They do make conductive shoes and they are fantastic. You still need cotton clothing for it to work.
Not sure if this will work for your situation, but it's used in electronics work all the time.
Static works on different electrical potential. You don't necessarily need a ground. Just connect all components (including yourself) together with small wire. That eliminates the potential between components. You can all be at 20,000 volts and not generate a spark. Great low cost wrist straps for the people portion of the system.
That's why on really dry days you grab your sweetheart's hand before kissing her after walking across the carpet, unless she's been a bitch that day.
Static works on different electrical potential. You don't necessarily need a ground. Just connect all components (including yourself) together with small wire. That eliminates the potential between components. You can all be at 20,000 volts and not generate a spark. Great low cost wrist straps for the people portion of the system.
That's why on really dry days you grab your sweetheart's hand before kissing her after walking across the carpet, unless she's been a bitch that day.
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Yeah I forgot list that. I did try that and like the no shoes thing , I think it did help lower the static but not to the point that it didn't effect my scale. No shies did help a lot and let me go longer before the static really got going last time, not as much today
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I don't know I haven't called them... Now that you say that I feel kind of foolish for not having done that yet...
Yeah that's what I did with the antistatic mat leads, including the wrist strap. Seems to have zero effect if I wear it or not. I tried putting the wrist strap on the glass powder stack and on the trckler tooNot sure if this will work for your situation, but it's used in electronics work all the time.
Static works on different electrical potential. You don't necessarily need a ground. Just connect all components (including yourself) together with small wire. That eliminates the potential between components. You can all be at 20,000 volts and not generate a spark. Great low cost wrist straps for the people portion of the system.
That's why on really dry days you grab your sweetheart's hand before kissing her after walking across the carpet, unless she's been a bitch that day.
I do remember a few folks complaining that the Area419 scale tray would cause drift. When they switched back to the stock tray the issue went away. Are you using the ground screw on the back of the scale to ground it? Also try installing the wind screens to see if that makes any difference.
I clipped on to a metal tab but not I'm not using the ground screw. I would think that if it were the tray it would do it all the time though right? I will try getting the wire on that ground screw though, I didn't see one but I didn't look really well either
I have found that a relative humidity between 45-55% is a happy range which does not promote rusting and prevents static. I am in MD and FL. In MD I have to run a dehumidifier in the late spring and summer months and humidifier during the winter months. In FL I have to run a dehumidifier year round.
Wiping down with dryer sheets does help, but RH is the biggest factor.
On you drift and inaccuracy problem with electronic scale . Just a thought . Are you sure it's static charge ???
do have LED light setup illuminating your reload bench ???
I Removed my ( 2 ) 4 ft. LED tubes . and put back in the old ft. florescent tubes over my reload bench . Those 4 ft. LED light tubes give off interference , electromagnetic frequency .
.
I don't but I want to put led tape light up but this static issue has stopped me from doing anything else. It basically eliminates my V3 from anything more than 5 or 10 rounds most of the time. I feel pretty sure it is in fact static doing it because of how it behaves and seeing my ball powder on the side of the glass tube.
Maybe there is a min distance for that. ?? I have nothing but LEDs in my shop and have no issues. 4 long strips and one large center dome. But they are all a few feet above the bench.
You can buy an anti static gun.
I know nothing about these. lol
( I knew they made static guns for painting, so I looked to see if they made anti static guns, and they do)
Does the static come (a little anyway) from the powder bottles maybe? I say that because people use them to "shake and bake" powder coat bullets in. I uses them, cut up into little chips in my tumbler when I'm powder coating bullets, to make static.
I know nothing about these. lol
( I knew they made static guns for painting, so I looked to see if they made anti static guns, and they do)
Does the static come (a little anyway) from the powder bottles maybe? I say that because people use them to "shake and bake" powder coat bullets in. I uses them, cut up into little chips in my tumbler when I'm powder coating bullets, to make static.
Ionizer.
I don't know anything about that but I will read and see what I can find.
And would that resolve the static issue? Not really sure what that is or does but I will look into it. ..
I got some solid copper wire and tied it to the grounding nut on the back of the scale, then clipped on to that with my ground wire clip, which is plugged into the common ground on my plug. This plug is also very close to the ground rod.
Yes I think it is possible, but it seems like it's the v3 doing it, not the scale. The more it runs, the more static that is acquired on my scale. Of course I don't actually know, but it sure seems that way. I'm going to just run a bunch of loads now and track it and just dump the powder in a container vs dumping it back into the hopper, in case that adds to the static
