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Advanced Marksmanship steel target sizes

fastford

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Sep 10, 2008
    1,492
    1
    Central, Texas
    i am going to make some steel targets to use out at the farm. what size do you guys usually shoot at?

    100yard
    200
    300
    400
    500

    600

    800

    1000?

    thanks!!
    Chris
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    typical torso sized target works great all the way to 1k. The one I shoot has a 6x6 head, 15" wide with 19" body length (25" total height)
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    1+ on human torso silhouette. It's good for closer and longer ranges also. I have tried my standard size target out to 1575 yards. Will try to get it to at least 1 mile or 2000 yards eventually.


    BTW, if you are going to use it for anything closer than 300 yards, I would suggest that you get some seriously good AR500 to withstand the beating from closer range usage.
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    I have 5", 6", 8" and 12" circles, as well as a 15x24 Torso, an 18x24 and a 30x30 steel plate targets. They are all AR500 and all except teh torso are 1/2 thick.

    I shoot everything from 1 MOA to 2 MOA at distance (as in 6" at 600 yards to 12" at 600 yards.

    Jeffvn
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    I don't shoot steel any closer than 300 yards. Otherwise it tears mild steel up and can bounce back. We use 10"x10" square targets all the way out to 1000. The larger targets would be great for longer distances to help see impact.
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    I have a 3/8" AR 400 plate measuring 12" x 15" So far it's worked out to 800yd. Also don't like to shoot it closer than 300yd.
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    Is AR400 or AR500 what most of ya'll use? I'm going to be building a torso myself, somewhere around the 18" by 28" or so. I have an idea what it costs. I was just curious if people used lighter steel and how it held up at what distances. I'd be shooting it with a .300 WSM pushing some 190 bergers. Not trying to hijack the thread, but just curious.
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    I run the following for a class.

    100 6" round
    200 8" Round
    300 10" Round
    400 12" round
    500 17"x10" humanoid.

    I also have a 25"x15" humanoid for more of a fun target at what ever distance.

    I only run 1/2 think AR-500 under 300yds and 3/8" think AR500 past 300yds.

    Seems to work for me.

    John
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    I don't use my steel targets inside of 300, farther depending on which smoke-pole is poking at them. I have some target grade AR-500 stuff which is better suited for the closer ranges. Also have some 1/2" mild steel that seems to be fine for .308 if it is at least .5 kM (550 yds). I recently picked up some used track pads from a D-8 cat; odd shape, hard, and damned heavy! haven't tried those yet. I'm a little nervous about the curvature of the surface and low velocity bullet strikes when at long range. I try to use paper, clay pigeons, charcoal briquetts or other reactive targets for closer range stuff. I found some polymer self-healing targets, but have not tried them yet. They are meant for pistol use and therefore high velocity rifle rounds may punch through too quickly and not make them swing enough to verify hits.
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    I found a great, cheap, steel target to use is railroad cross plates. You can find them in sizes from 6x6, 7x14 an 8x16". They are harder than woodpecker lips and if you stay 400yds on out you will never wear them out.

    You can weld them togeather to make larger plates if you need. They are hard to beat!! We weld about 6" of chain on them and hang them from a bar.(I also don't like shooting steel closer than about 300yds to be on the safe side.)
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: El Kabong</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't use my steel targets inside of 300, farther depending on which smoke-pole is poking at them. I have some target grade AR-500 stuff which is better suited for the closer ranges. Also have some 1/2" mild steel that seems to be fine for .308 if it is at least .5 kM (550 yds). I recently picked up some used track pads from a D-8 cat; odd shape, hard, and damned heavy! haven't tried those yet. I'm a little nervous about the curvature of the surface and low velocity bullet strikes when at long range. I try to use paper, clay pigeons, charcoal briquetts or other reactive targets for closer range stuff. I found some polymer self-healing targets, but have not tried them yet. They are meant for pistol use and therefore high velocity rifle rounds may punch through too quickly and not make them swing enough to verify hits. </div></div>

    If you are worried about ricochet hang the metal with a slight downward cant (not verticle)10 degrees is lots. Then the bullets and fragments end up within a few yards of the target.

    Answering the thread;

    The short answer is how big is your farm. Are you shooting offhand or long range. With .22 rimfire or big magnums. The more you have(steel targets) and the more varaiation you have, the more ammo you can shoot without getting bored. If your guests can't shoot very well having small targets at long range is discouraging for them.

    I have 4 dueling trees for .22(rimfire),about 100 other .22(rimfire), 10 stationary targets made or Railway tie plates and misc ones of different sizes for other ranges. All of the material came from scrap yards.Most good scrap yards have steel of all kinds of shapes already cut.

    Dueling trees are most fun in general although I dont't have any of those for CF rifle.

    If you have a farm to set up your(own) range you have the best learning situation possible. Unlimited shooting, relatively few safety considerations(compared to a public range), no waiting, etc, etc. Buy a Dillon reloader and get good!!


     
    Re: steel target sizes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: johngfoster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Where do you find railroad tie plates? Just walking the tracks? </div></div>

    Only if you want to get arrested LOL. At a scrap yard.

    The nice ting about steel from the scrapyard is that after its shot to pieces you just take it back and trade it in for some new stuff. The difference is about .20 cents a pound.
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    If you have a station near by or a place the train stops you can talk to the guys there. A lot of times work crews will have the old ones stacked into piles. Most of the time they will just give you some. Then take them some donuts or some beer and you will have a supply for life!!(HA)
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: raptor99</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you have a station near by or a place the train stops you can talk to the guys there. A lot of times work crews will have the old ones stacked into piles. Most of the time they will just give you some. Then take them some donuts or some beer and you will have a supply for life!!(HA) </div></div>

    You have to be carefull about doing stuff like this. All RR track and rights of way are RR property and the construction crews have no authority to dispose of RR property.

    Use your best judgement, but i would get such an offer in writing.
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    My 308 shooting FGMM 175gr SMK barely puts a pock mark on my 3/8" AR 400 plate at 300yd (confirmed by leica CRF 1200). Not planning to shoot it any closer than that due to possible back-splatter/ricochet.
     
    Re: steel target sizes

    I am not sure exactly what the steel is that I have, but it is 1/2" thick, and was a used to cover construction holes in the street. It is some pretty tough stuff, but it does crater at 200 yards with my .308. I haven't shot it at 100 yet, but my buddy did. It made a massive and jagged crater at 50.

    Also, when I cut them out, I made them 12"w x 18"h. This size made it to where I got 6 targets out of the material. I suspended them 6" from the top with chains. This gives them around 10 degrees down angle, and the lead and copper pieces usually stay really close to the targets. The stands are made out of light square tubing, and allow passthroughs if you mishit the plates.

    When I get a chance, I will take a few pics of them and show you how I designed my stand. They are super easy to set up, with spikes that go into the ground, and it also has a back stand to prevent knockovers. All that, and the cost was not all that expensive.

    DK