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Steiner T6xi

Thank you. I hope yours turns out excellent as well.

Yes, Seekins rings...."Low"

Mesa Precision Altitude Stock. Hawkins "hunter" Flush DBM bottom metal. MDT 3 round plastic mag, pretty much flush.
Bighorn Origin SA
24" Proof Bighorn Prefit (from Stocky's ......Proof Chambered Prefit).
6mm Creedmoor
PVA Jet Blast 3 port

Trigger Tech primary set at 1.5lbs

I'm going to load 112 Barnes.

Currently getting brass by shooting Norma Factory 107HPBT.............Shoots sub 1/2 MOA with factory. Many groups cloverleaf at 100.

One of the most consistently accurate rifles so far, I've got less than 100 rounds through it. Looking forward to getting a bit more brass and loading those 112 Barnes.
What does it weigh all up?
Its a very nice looking rifle.
 
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What does it weigh all up?
Its a very nice looking rifle.
Thanks

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Scope mounting?

For the 5-30, what height have you guys been using?

Looking at MPA's BA Bolt Action mount, there are 1.060, 1.125, 1.250, and 1.5.

I would appreciate any input you might have.

If it matters, it is going on an impact 737 with am M24 profile
 
Scope mounting?

For the 5-30, what height have you guys been using?

Looking at MPA's BA Bolt Action mount, there are 1.060, 1.125, 1.250, and 1.5.

I would appreciate any input you might have.

What are you mounting it on?
 
Thank you. I hope yours turns out excellent as well.
Yes, Seekins rings...."Low"
What size rings for the 2.5x15 for a Tikka with a Area 419 20 MOA rail and Bartlein sendero carbon fiber barrel would be the best fit?

Going to try it with a stock Tikka CTR in a KRG Bravo while the other Tikka is being built. Already have a set of 1.1” Vortex PMR rings that I’ll remove from my Vortex Venom. Just concerned they may be a little too high since I’ll be going to a 50mm objective from a 56mm. Already told the wife that there’s a good chance I’ll be replacing that Venom once I get used to the T6XI.
 
What size rings for the 2.5x15 for a Tikka with a Area 419 20 MOA rail and Bartlein sendero carbon fiber barrel would be the best fit?

Going to try it with a stock Tikka CTR in a KRG Bravo while the other Tikka is being built. Already have a set of 1.1” Vortex PMR rings that I’ll remove from my Vortex Venom. Just concerned they may be a little too high since I’ll be going to a 50mm objective from a 56mm. Already told the wife that there’s a good chance I’ll be replacing that Venom once I get used to the T6XI.
I'd just save money and use the 1.1" that you have. Just raise up the cheek piece on the krg bravo if necessary. Even seekins lows at .92" or whatever they are will appear too high with a 50mm.
 
Optics Planet says that the manufacturer has discontinued the T6xi 5-30x56, both models???


:oops:

Go to EuroOptics.

 
I'd just save money and use the 1.1" that you have. Just raise up the cheek piece on the krg bravo if necessary. Even seekins lows at .92" or whatever they are will appear too high with a 50mm.
That’s what I was thinking, but I’m thinking low rings would look decent.
Optics Planet says that the manufacturer has discontinued the T6xi 5-30x56, both models???
I’ve noticed they do that a lot on scopes when they haven’t gotten their initial supply. Doubt they’d discontinue those so quickly.
 
What size rings for the 2.5x15 for a Tikka with a Area 419 20 MOA rail and Bartlein sendero carbon fiber barrel would be the best fit?

Going to try it with a stock Tikka CTR in a KRG Bravo while the other Tikka is being built. Already have a set of 1.1” Vortex PMR rings that I’ll remove from my Vortex Venom. Just concerned they may be a little too high since I’ll be going to a 50mm objective from a 56mm. Already told the wife that there’s a good chance I’ll be replacing that Venom once I get used to the T6XI.

The scope will be the same height. The only difference is more room between the objective and barrel which means nothing.
 
The scope will be the same height. The only difference is more room between the objective and barrel which means nothing.
Exactly. I’m more concerned about proper cheek weld with the Iota Eko stock. Took a chance with it and got it for 48% off and the 2.5-15 T6XI was $600 off, so that gave me justification to get a Bartlein carbon fiber barrel. Just hoping everything looks right once it’s built.
 
Exactly. I’m more concerned about proper cheek weld with the Iota Eko stock. Took a chance with it and got it for 48% off and the 2.5-15 T6XI was $600 off, so that gave me justification to get a Bartlein carbon fiber barrel. Just hoping everything looks right once it’s built.
Well wait until you get everything together and find out. Worst case is you can buy a new set of rings or just get a stock pack or another way to raise the comb.
 
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Well wait until you get everything together and find out. Worst case is you can buy a new set of rings or just get a stock pack or another way to raise the comb.
Definitely waiting to have it all together before getting the rings.
 
Sun in the face but I didn’t need to bust out the sunshade. View from 3x to 16x. Turrets are so so but it tracked perfectly out to 1200 yards. Next to a gen 3 vortex for scale.
Turrets on mine are pretty nice, wonder if they have turret QC issues like Vortex had with the Gen3 6-36?
 
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I don’t mind the weight. Just glad it’s not as heavy as the Razors. Then again, I only walk a couple hundred yards during whitetail season. Still want a lightweight accurate rifle. Hoping I have one after all this money spent.
 
Yeah. Definite hole in the market.

I really want to find a March 1.5-15 to look through. Might be the way to go.
Have you looked through a T6XI?

Got my 2.5-15x today and I will never buy another Vortex Viper PST. Had no idea what I was missing. Hoping to get it mounted soon and take some coyotes before the end of the month.
 
Have you looked through a T6XI?

Got my 2.5-15x today and I will never buy another Vortex Viper PST. Had no idea what I was missing. Hoping to get it mounted soon and take some coyotes before the end of the month.
You're comparing to a scope that's half the price? I would hope the Steiner T6Xi is better, it's in a completely different class price wise.
 
You're comparing to a scope that's half the price? I would hope the Steiner T6Xi is better, it's in a completely different class price wise.
I knew the T6XI would be better but wasn’t expecting that much of a difference. The Viper PST was the best scope I’ve owned up until now. So that’s why I compared the two.
 
Have you looked through a T6XI?

Got my 2.5-15x today and I will never buy another Vortex Viper PST. Had no idea what I was missing. Hoping to get it mounted soon and take some coyotes before the end of the month.

I have not but I have nightforce atacr stuff, have gotten behind zco, s&b, etc.
 
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I knew the T6XI would be better but wasn’t expecting that much of a difference. The Viper PST was the best scope I’ve owned up until now. So that’s why I compared the two.
The PST II is getting "old", almost every other manufacturer has improved their scopes in the price class the PST II used to hold. It is time for a PST III to come about, I really thought it was going to be 2023 but I think supply chain issues and general COVID stupidity has delayed it, so here's hoping 2024 will bring good news from Vortex. And yes, I would agree, the T6Xi should be better, but the PST II 3-15x44 was actually a pretty good design, especially for its time.
 
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Sprung for the 1-6

- not daylight bright but daylight visible is fair (see mid day arizona sun pics)

- I was skeptical of the reticle but I’m quickly warming up to it. I’ll have to mount it and put it through its paces at various distance targets and various lighting situations. It could be a real winner. I’ll reserve judgment after some use.

- the elevation turret notch marker does not perfectly align with the markings on the turret. The clicks are audible and feel very positive. But the marking misalignment pisses me off.

- glass looks great and I’m pleased with the eye box at least on initial inspection.


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This looks unsat. Strong 2006 NXS 1-4 vibes on that illumination.
 
Sprung for the 1-6

- not daylight bright but daylight visible is fair (see mid day arizona sun pics)

- I was skeptical of the reticle but I’m quickly warming up to it. I’ll have to mount it and put it through its paces at various distance targets and various lighting situations. It could be a real winner. I’ll reserve judgment after some use.

- the elevation turret notch marker does not perfectly align with the markings on the turret. The clicks are audible and feel very positive. But the marking misalignment pisses me off.

- glass looks great and I’m pleased with the eye box at least on initial inspection.


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That reticle and illumination suck
 
The first step is admitting you have a problem.
2023-02-26 11.57.41.jpg

Oh no! Now I see the photo I can tell I haven't lined up the grooves on the change lever. Must fix that!

I like the illum on the 1-6x. Haven't had to shoot into the sun on a glacier yet, but the outer ring is plenty bright and visible at 1x (ish) to me, by the time it disappears from zooming, you can see the center circle-cross just fine.

Question: 1-6 came with a spare small elevation turret, and cap. They aren't locking and I guess most will hold over so caps make sense but I was thinking of doing both small turrets and leaving the caps off, basically just to make it all smaller and a few grams lighter. Assuming I check for zero bumping, any other downsides? I can't see why it would be less waterproof, for example.
 
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The first step is admitting you have a problem.
View attachment 8084859
Oh no! Now I see the photo I can tell I haven't lined up the grooves on the change lever. Must fix that!

I like the illum on the 1-6x. Haven't had to shoot into the sun on a glacier yet, but the outer ring is plenty bright and visible at 1x (ish) to me, by the time it disappears from zooming, you can see the center circle-cross just fine.

Question: 1-6 came with a spare small elevation turret, and cap. They aren't locking and I guess most will hold over so caps make sense but I was thinking of doing both small turrets and leaving the caps off, basically just to make it all smaller and a few grams lighter. Assuming I check for zero bumping, any other downsides? I can't see why it would be less waterproof, for example.
Have you noticed any difference in glass quality between the 3-18x and 5-30?.
In my Burris xtr3s USA made, the 5-30x was "better optically" when both were set to 15-18x?
I've got two T6Xi 3-18x56 that I'm happy with, thinking of jumping into two 5-30x.

Also wonder difference in reticle size between the 3-18 and 5-30 regarding MSR2?
 
Got my 2.5x15 mounted and sighted in yesterday. I’ve only got 18 MOA of elevation left to dial up, despite having a 20 MOA scope base. I know there is only 60 MOA of elevation, but was curious how much elevation that others have?
 
Got my 2.5x15 mounted and sighted in yesterday. I’ve only got 18 MOA of elevation left to dial up, despite having a 20 MOA scope base. I know there is only 60 MOA of elevation, but was curious how much elevation that others have?
That's only 5 mils! Something is up with your install. Did you read the manual for zeroing and zero stop? How far below zero can you dial?

I will have to get my 3-18x56 out of the safe and check what I can dial. I have it mounted in a 28moa AI one piece dovetail mount. I believe I have around 22 mils of elevation if I remember right.
 
That's only 5 mils! Something is up with your install. Did you read the manual for zeroing and zero stop? How far below zero can you dial?

I will have to get my 3-18x56 out of the safe and check what I can dial. I have it mounted in a 28moa AI one piece dovetail mount. I believe I have around 22 mils of elevation if I remember right.
I’d have to check, but I read the manual and followed along. I was thinking something was off so I’m going to have someone else check it over for me. I have it mounted in 1.10” vortex precision rings on a 20 MOA base.
 
Have you noticed any difference in glass quality between the 3-18x and 5-30?.
In my Burris xtr3s USA made, the 5-30x was "better optically" when both were set to 15-18x?
I've got two T6Xi 3-18x56 that I'm happy with, thinking of jumping into two 5-30x.

Also wonder difference in reticle size between the 3-18 and 5-30 regarding MSR2?
I will try to pay more attention to this but my eyes are /awful/ so unlikely I can see as well as some of you :)

Now, in the past I have been paid to do things like color correct photos for Hallmark, so I tend to see imperfections and I haven't seen anything that causes me concern when my eyes work. E.g. I CAN see chromatic issues on some other scopes on bright days with white steel, haven't seen that yet. Seems as good as my old German Steiners or maybe a bit better, and MAYBE a tiny bit less bright than the ZCO 420, but maybe not. I forgot my spotter yesterday, and it wasn't far but spotted hits for a friend zeroing a 5.56 gun with the 1x6, so... pretty good optics.

I... don't follow the reticle size question. They do seem /identical/ at all similar magnifications. And for what it's worth, just checked, the mag dial marks also match up. Dial between 16/20 and the reticle is the same size as the max-power 18x.
 
I will try to pay more attention to this but my eyes are /awful/ so unlikely I can see as well as some of you :)

Now, in the past I have been paid to do things like color correct photos for Hallmark, so I tend to see imperfections and I haven't seen anything that causes me concern when my eyes work. E.g. I CAN see chromatic issues on some other scopes on bright days with white steel, haven't seen that yet. Seems as good as my old German Steiners or maybe a bit better, and MAYBE a tiny bit less bright than the ZCO 420, but maybe not. I forgot my spotter yesterday, and it wasn't far but spotted hits for a friend zeroing a 5.56 gun with the 1x6, so... pretty good optics.

I... don't follow the reticle size question. They do seem /identical/ at all similar magnifications. And for what it's worth, just checked, the mag dial marks also match up. Dial between 16/20 and the reticle is the same size as the max-power 18x.

Thanks. I found some through the scope reticle pics(earlier in this thread from another member) of the t6xi 5-30x on ........5x, 20x and 30x against a 100 yard target and it looks fine. I just meant that usually a FFP reticle is "optimized differently" for each power range in a series of scopes. Usually in an 18x it will have a little heavier reticle on 18x than the same series of scope in a 5-30x on 18x., to eliminate a big ass fat reticle in the 30x on (30x). The reticle "subtensions" on the Burris XTR3 are "thicker" on the 3-18x than the 5.5-30x for example. In any event, looks like the msr-2 is "thick enough" even on the 5-30x to be usable from about 10x and up. That works for me. Thanks for your input. The two 3-18x56 Steiner T6x I have are Very Well Done for the money!!!!

I'm ordering up two 5-30x from Scott at liberty.
 
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The first step is admitting you have a problem.
View attachment 8084859
Oh no! Now I see the photo I can tell I haven't lined up the grooves on the change lever. Must fix that!

I like the illum on the 1-6x. Haven't had to shoot into the sun on a glacier yet, but the outer ring is plenty bright and visible at 1x (ish) to me, by the time it disappears from zooming, you can see the center circle-cross just fine.

Question: 1-6 came with a spare small elevation turret, and cap. They aren't locking and I guess most will hold over so caps make sense but I was thinking of doing both small turrets and leaving the caps off, basically just to make it all smaller and a few grams lighter. Assuming I check for zero bumping, any other downsides? I can't see why it would be less waterproof, for example.
So the 1-6 does not have a zero stop? I had assumed it had the same elevation turret as my T5Xi 3-15.
 
1-6 totally has a zero stop, just non-locking. Doesn't slide up and down, and single rotation I guess (at work, can't check, but no windows etc). So old school covers instead, but I've rarely had locking turrets so NBD, just glance to check for zero before firing.

I did forget I had one oddity zeroing: I couldn't get it to free spin when loosened. It would occasionally grab and click, I'd tighten and undo the clicks I heard, then try again. After three of these, I just pulled it all the way off, put it straight down where zero was forward. It is dirt simple underneath, no cams to flip etc just a pin and non-continuous groove so getting it zeroed and "resetting the zero stop" was no effort at all.

Also, now I think even harder, zero stop is at ZERO. Others go past by... I forget, but a bit, so you can non-tool adjust if something comes up (okay: down). This one is an actual zero-stop.
 
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...I just meant that usually a FFP reticle is "optimized differently" for each power range in a series of scopes. Usually in an 18x it will have a little heavier reticle on 18x than the same series of scope in a 5-30x on 18x...
Again maybe I am uninformed or unobservant, but I did quickly throw both guns over a rest and looked through them, the two reticles looked 100% identical, at least back and forth between at 18x. I'll try to recall to look harder some time.
 
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Again maybe I am uninformed or unobservant, but I did quickly throw both guns over a rest and looked through them, the two reticles looked 100% identical, at least back and forth between at 18x. I'll try to recall to look harder some time.
It very well could be the same. If it isn't, it's probably super close. If they are the same, that's good news for me. I hate "too fine" a reticle in FFP scopes............a common theme among many of them it seems.

The 3-18x56 with MSr-2 reticle seems very well "sized". Sounds like the 5-30x will not be "too fine" on the lower to mid powers 10x to 20x, which I find myself shooting on the most.
 
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Took my rifle in to be looked at and they couldn’t find anything wrong with how I mounted it. So I guess I will get another rail to replace the Leupold one I currently have. Hopefully that will give me a little more elevation. If I wouldn’t have used a 20 MOA rail then I wouldn’t have been able to zero at 100y. Something still seems off to me about it though.
 
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Who looked at your setup? Something is broke with your scope, or you did something terribly wrong. No reason why you wouldn’t be able to zero any scope made with a 20 MOA rail at 100 yards.