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Suggestions to upgrade my AR

Diesel1966

Diesel1966

Private
Minuteman
Mar 4, 2013
26
4
N.W. Montana
Hi all,
I have two questions. First, why are my pics upside down??
Second, I have a new S&W AR15 Sport, stock, with Nikon P223 3x30.....
What can I do to upgrade it? A parts list would be nice. Just keep it reasonable.
Oh, the one thing I don't like is the hand rail.
Thanks, John image.jpg
 
Probably best bang for yoru buck would be to get a Giessele Trigger.
 
Learn to shoot the platform before you start adding things to it. Once you figure how to run the system you'll have an idea of what it is you really want out of it. Literally everything on an AR-15 can be changed out, it's like Lincoln Logs for grown ups. For handguards you can go from spending a few hundred on a rail to $30ish for Magpul MOE.
 
On an ar you want to put the money in the barrel and trigger. Since it is brand new I would say trigger. All the other stuff is cosmetic really.
 
First things first, get a Geissele SDE trigger. Once you get that, spend your time practicing and you'll be able to figure out what needs to be changed in order to fit the role that you're wanting the rifle to fill.
 
As a few others have said or hinted at, you first need to decide what role this AR will have in your arsenal.
Hunting? Home defense? Patrol? Training/Courses? Three Gun-style Shooting? All of the Above?

Once the purpose is narrowed, the opportunities for enhancement will also narrow.

Also mentioned above is that these arms are modular and there are limitless possibilities. Personal preference will define what you need or want. That really only comes from shooting it. Buy 200 rounds of some cheap white box stuff, and go through in an hour.
Maybe the length of pull or cheek weld isn't right? Look at stocks.
Maybe the trigger isn't sharp or its too gritty? Look at Giesselle and Timney, etc.

It goes on and on; but one thing I can tell you absolutely is that how I put together my rifle will be without a doubt different than how you put together yours.

Have fun, post up you do...
 
So after thinking about it here's what the rifle will be used for. Coyotes that wander through the property out about 200 yards. Property and self defense. Also when shtf. The Timney and Geissele triggers are pricey at the moment. I've just ordered 4 30 rd. mags and a v-tac sling. Also picked up a few boxes of ammo. Can only afford a little at a time. I'm sure the triggers mentioned are worth the money, but the little things will go a lot further. right now I can use the factory trigger. It's not that bad. I was thinking new rail for accessories. Last thing, does anyone know why my pics are upside down?? More suggestions are welcomed. John
 
Diesel1966 said:
The Timney and Geissele triggers are pricey at the moment. I was thinking new rail for accessories. Last thing, does anyone know why my pics are upside down?? More suggestions are welcomed. John
Click to expand...

Forget the Timney and get a Geissele SDE. They aren't "pricey at the moment". The prices you've seen are the standard, everyday prices. Your photos are upside down due to your cell phone being screwy. More suggestions? Forget the "accessory rail" and get a Geissele SDE.
 
Actually the photos were taken with my IPad They only come out funny on this site. I have pics up on other sites and emails just fine. Gisselle GDE, I'll look at that. John
 
I built all of mine incrementally too. Piece by piece...

Get a grip that feels good, Magpul MIAD or Troy or Hogue. $30.

Get a stock that feels good; Magpul MOE or MIAD, VLTOR or Troy. $40-100.

Get a flip-up back-up rear sight (BUIS), and learn to shoot with just the iron sights. Magpul, Troy, Daniel Defense, Midwest Ind, etc. $40-150.

Small things do make a difference, and they don't break the bank. These three will help your form and ergonomics so that you can get better as your rifle gets better.
 
RRA triggers have done good by me. Look into a trigger upgrade for sure.
This is more of a comfort thing for me but a bigger latch on the charging handle is something that helps me out since I use gloves all the time.
 
- Trigger
- Sling that can be used for positional shooting as well as a carrying strap (i.e. TIS slip cuff)
- Free-floated rail/handguard/whatever
- Take that scope off, only use irons for the next few months learning how to shoot from the prone, sitting and standing while utilizing said sling and sell the scope. I feel that with a fixed power scope on a 16" carbine you are getting no real benefit from it yet have to deal with all of the disadvantages. I honestly believe you are hindering yourself with a 3x scope; the magnification isn't anything special yet kills your FOV as well as an CQB shooting. Irons would be better.
- Eventually get something like an EoTech/Aimpoint for near-end parallax free shooting or a Trijicon 1-4x with the true 1x for CQB and the 4x for longer shots out past 300. It's a carbine, not a 24 inch bolt gun; train accordingly.

ETA - Also look at how much you are wanting to spend and how much you are looking to change. As mentioned above, the AR platform is like adult Legos where you van always have a better everything. See what you are wanting to do and the cost; does someone make a quality AR with all/most of that stuff already? Chances are if you go too deep into the AR upgrade hole you are better off selling your basic M&P and buying something with all the whistles on it you want and probably spend less money.

Overall though, regardless of what you want to do - go shoot it with a purpose.
 
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I agree on the Giess. trigger being #1, VLTOR EMOD or MAGPUL UBR next, and a great barrel (White Oak, Krieger, Noveske, etc) last----you could procure an ALG trigger
from said co also---it is a std military trigger with creep and grittiness removed if on a budget
 
Decide what you want to do with it and let that be your guide. Don't fall into all of the wiz bang things that do nothing for effectiveness, spend the money on ammo and training. The two most helpful items would be a light and red dot. I'm partial to the Aimpoint Micro and unless you are going to buy night vision-don't waste money on the night vision capable model(T1) The Larue high mount that allows for lower 1/3 iron is the ticket. I have great experience with the Surefire line of lights, and don't buy a rail for the simple point of mounting a light, there are so many options out there now for mounting lights to standard handguards, sight bases, etc. Oh-and the Vickers sling.

Mark

Impact Weapons Components

LaRue Tactical Aimpoint Micro Mount LT660, LT660HK or LT661 | LaRue Tactical
 
Your best upgrade would be to take a class at Gunsite or somewhere similar. If you don't know the shortcomings of your rifle, then you don't know your rifle. Go practice then answer your own question.
 
mikeltee said:
Your best upgrade would be to take a class at Gunsite or somewhere similar. If you don't know the shortcomings of your rifle, then you don't know your rifle. Go practice then answer your own question.
Click to expand...

Seriously, that's what you consider to be the "best upgrade" for his bone-stock rifle?

He can get to know his rifle by investing in a good trigger, signing up for the Sniper's Hide Online Training for $10/mo, and spending time on the range.

After he becomes proficient in the fundamentals of marksmanship, THEN taking a training course would be beneficial to build upon what he's already learned.
 
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If it were me the list would be new stock (I prefer Magpul CTR, ACR, UBR, or PRS something that locks in place), new grip either MIAD, Houge, or Ergo, and then new trigger. You don't need a rail just to add a light. GG&G as well as other companies make small rail pieces that can be added on to the fixed front sight that you have. You coul also swap hand guards to Magpul MOE and use their illumination kit or other small rail for a light. Simple and cheap way to get a light without adding a lot of weight. I agree with the people that say learn to shoot what you have first with iron sights then make upgrades over time. That way you don't waste your money on things that are unnecessary. Also if you know anyone else with an AR try to handle theirs. See what they have on theirs as far as stocks, grips, sights... and go from there.
 
I would recommend a JP silent capture buffer spring and heavy spring which is available in a kit of 4 springs or by itself..... Makes for really smooth cycling and lower felt recoil...ideally I would start with adjustable gas block but since it's new you can get similar results with this. If the JP is more money than you want to spend get a Wolff extra power spring and spikes heavy buffer or slashes heavy buffer..... Also a Battle comp.... Probably the best comp available if not shooting suppressed.
 
+1 for Geissele trigger..... Or even Wilson Combat TTU.... I have more Geissele than WC's but I think I like the WC's better but it's close
 
Probably the most convenient add on IMHO is a phase 5 EBRV2.....don't bother with EBRV1 as its like the Magpul version....... You will love the convenience this adds
 
Seems like you're getting pretty good advice here. I would go with a trigger as the first place to put dollars you don't need for ammo. While internet spats often break out over which components are best, IMHO you can't really go wrong with a Giessele trigger, but others are also good (search the site to learn more, and try to use a few if you can).
 
It depends on what you want to do with your AR. If you want a fighting carbine, odds are you'll never notice the difference in field accuracy between a GI trigger and a match trigger. Hell, the trigger rarely influences the mechanical accuracy of the rifle, it just covers for poor execution of the fundamentals. When you start adding more magnification and shooting from more stable platforms, then you will start seeing the advantages of the trigger.

If you're using it to train for defensive scenarios, the best money will be spent on a quality white light, a quality red dot sight, and ammo to train with.

If you want to make it more of a precision rifle, you'll be good to spend money on a free-floating handguard, a good bipod mount, and trigger.

Things like grips and stocks are ergonomics that are up to the user. Just don't cheap out and buy UTG, Tapco, and crap like that. Go with quality parts from Magpul, VLTOR, Tango Down, etc. Myself, I like an upgraded grip that takes bridges "gap" between an A2 and the trigger guard like the Tango Down Battlegrip.
 
Geissele trigger (I got the DMR, others may suit you better), Battery Assist Lever (not the BAD, that one was loose for me and the screws stripped out. EBRV2 looks nice, but I don't want to take that roll pin out), Bipod (harris should be fine), then keep the rest for ammo and optics. Opinions will differ on optics depending on your use. I really like the ACOG for reaching out a little.

The other stuff is nice to have, but doesn't offer leaps and bounds of improvement over the items above. If you have doubts about anything, just head to a range and chat with anyone else you see with an AR. I've seen a lot of gear I was curious about that way.
 
I would suggest forgoing all the BAD levers, silent recoil springs, adjustable gas blocks and gimmick shit. From my first AR to now, I have steadily gotten rid of more and more shit hanging off the gun. As it sits now, I have 2 ARs. One is a Daniel Defense Mk18 with an Aimpoint T1 and a Surefire X300 Ultra and the other is a 14.5" Knights Armament Mod 1 with a T1 and Surefire Scout light. The first thing I would do is shoot it. You don't know what you don't know. Meaning that you don't know what you dont like about the gun yet. If you are going to run your support hand way out on the front of the gun, the carbine length handguard isn't great for that. I would suggest like someone else did, get rid of that fixed 3x scope. If anything I would get some form of red dot and a light and call it good. The factory trigger is fine for what you want to do with it. Likewise, the shooter interface (stocks, grips, and handguard) are probably the most important. If it doesn't fit you then you won't ever shoot it well. I prefer a Magpul CTR and Bravo Company Mod1 grip with a slender rail. Good luck and your setup won't be like any one elses.
 
For a little light reading: After Action Report: Central VA Tactical Precision Carbine - Maryland Shooters

I think you need to decide what you want your "platform" to do for you. In-house. Outdoor patrol, all around go-to gun. A 16" carbine can do it all, you just have to be comfortable handling it, know what ammo it shoots reliably, every time, without fail, know your DOPE and stick with the optics that work for you.

For me it's an EOTECH XPS 3-2 (yeah, I've got NV gear... I'm a crazed midlife crisis prepper), 16" carbine now with quad rails, surefire lighting (visible and IR), suppressed, a CAR stock with a Magtech CTR and Magpul M3 sling. Ergo grips. It all kind of came together for me during some CQB work with friends and testing a few pieces at a time to find out what works for me ergonomically and functionally.

Pays your money, takes your chances.

There are a LOT of schools of thought on this subject. As many parts mfrs as there are parts. More, I think.

Eugene Stoner was a genius. Not a John Moses Browning, but genius nonetheless.

YMMV.

Diesel1966 said:
Hi all,
I have two questions. First, why are my pics upside down??
Second, I have a new S&W AR15 Sport, stock, with Nikon P223 3x30.....
What can I do to upgrade it? A parts list would be nice. Just keep it reasonable.
Oh, the one thing I don't like is the hand rail.
Thanks, JohnView attachment 4407
Click to expand...
 
Adjustable gas blocks are a gimmick? Sorry but I have to respectfully disagree...I can't imagine many people if any sharing that opinion. If an adjustable gas block isnt an option then a high power spring and buffer can make a big difference. For probably $40 you can get a Wolff xtra power spring and spikes heavy buffer....JP silent captured springs certainly are not neccessary but I assure you they are not a gimmick either... While I respect the fact it might not be something that you might use but if you haven't used something I'm not sure how you can call it a gimmick..... It is a nice alternative that does make the action smoother and quieter and just pulls out for cleaning and lubricating..... but it is over priced but so are slashes heavy buffers... But they are high quality and to a large extent you get what you pay for.... I do agree however to shoot the gun and try other people's upgrades first to determine what you like.... However I think the op was looking for what other people have found useful so just saying to shoot it doesn't really answer his question.....also if you are shooting out to 200 yards I would keep your scope till you find something that you like better. I might add an offset Mount with a small red dot sight for closer targets.
 
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