Oh, I bet that sucks big time if you had your mounts fixed to fit tight! You are lucky as shit you didn't have to deal with old AAC. I waited for TWO years for a mount, never got one, when they got bought out they sent one in a month or two. Wow. Took 3 years to get that one rifle GTG.
For some goddamn reason I bought THREE more fucking AAC cans AFTER knowing good and well how bad the mount and CS is... But I use the two 5.56 cans on rack grade M4's and the SDN6's fit a few different SBR's. Before laughing at my dumb ass, know that I did get the 5.56 cans, both for under $1000, and the SDN6 was on sale for $700 something with my wife's Johnny rifle which had the 51T mount already... SDN6 isn't a bad can, it's actually a pretty nice one, the mounts though suck. So since I have four of these, I've collected several mounts over the years. What I do is try and fit the mount to the can first, then go from there. But you are in a different situation.
So what I do is lap the bevel on the mounts for ones that are very close or have wobble, there are a few ways of doing this (can be done by hand if it's close and you know what you are doing). The ones that have axial rotation but no wobble go on SBR's that I don't require MOA accuracy on and for all of them I always depress the latch during removal and attachment. I only let it go when I have it where I want it. If the mount has too much wobble and also eclipses the barrel (surefire strike!) those mounts just go back. It's actually easier to buy three 51T mounts at once, then return the two that didn't fit.
Short of that I've phased 'em out, I don't buy new ones and I don't build rifles with those mounts anymore. Most of my rifles are designed with the can in mind now since all of them are suppressed except the .50Beowulf and M2HB and an assortment of handguns. I found the Saker and that's basically an SDN6 that's been redesigned completely (rather, it's a different can but it's a QD mil can made right, proper mount, stellite guts, which is what they line my M2HB barrels with). There are no external teeth and there is no wobble or movement at all on their mounts. They have a ratchet that I suppose can wear, but with this can it's not an issue, not anything you can even see. Has a positive lockup you can feel engage and disengage. Their cans can be had with almost any mount adapter, including the POS 18/51/90T. There isn't any tuning fork action either because their 3 prong hider has each tine shorter than the last (prevents the sine wave that you hear). Saker goes on/off with TRUE gross motor skills, it literally twists on and off. This is paramount for a mil can IMO/E. It's only drawback is it can't be attached silently like the AAC can can be when you depress the latch. It always ratchets.
As for what you posit, geez, if you have the means to do that don't you have the means to just bring the mounts into spec? It'd be a helluva lot easier. Then phase 'em out as you go along. Use 'em for rack rifles like I do (if you keep things like that). Certainly been less headache for me. Then again, I'm the guy on here with the Schedule A in fine print starting page 2... Also, the Sico mounts plus the adapters you'd need would be half the price of a Saker anyway. Having cans for each rifle has been quite nice though.
My recommendation and rule of thumb is to go with TBAC on anything that doesn't get abused (9" or 5" only) and Saker on anything that does get abused. Sico for pistol cans and Liberty for .22's. I use Elite for big, big shit because they are tanks at great prices and Dale can be trusted (besides, a .50BMG or .338LM is only going to be so quiet no matter what you do).
In short, phase 'em out. Use what you have on rack rifles if you have 'em. Try buying mounts 3 or more at a time and returning the ones that don't work. Best advice I have.
I do know folks that have made these cans into thread on only, but that practically ruins what it's made for. Still, if the rifles you use it on have those threads, then maybe it's not such a bad idea for the time being.
BTW, AAC says axial rotation isn't an issue but wobble is... You'll definitely know the difference. Axial rotation doesn't really affect the grouping much but wobble throws it all off and can set you up for baffle strikes. Axial rotation is certainly bothersome, but not something you should worry about, trust me. Been there, done that. Wobble is unacceptable though in any form (axial rotation plus one or more axes of rotation, ie, wobble!).
