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Tactical M1 Garand??

Ballistic Artist

Ballistic Artist

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Minuteman
Jan 3, 2012
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socialist republic Kalifornia
Hey All,
Has anyone ever set up a M1 Garand as a tactical rifle? Fulton armory makes a scout rail for the M1. Anyone know of any other companies that make trick parts for the Garand? Was wondering if anyone has done anything this off the wall with a Garand? Also, Is Remington brass ok to shoot through a Garand? I guess they are hard on brass. Has anyone ever loaded for one? Thanks in advance.
 
Can be hard on commercial casings there is an adjustable gas plug for them that helps mine is stock except for a NM rear sight aperture

Reload to M-2 specs "Port Pressure" is important IMR-4895 or Varget and keep the slugs between 147-180 I am sure there are posts in the reloading forum specifically for the M-1 (edit: the Schuster Plug allows any ammo to be used according to literature)

I have looked into the scope mount that replaces the hand guard for if/when my eyes get too old

being an 8 shot rifle I'm not sure how "tactical" would work I prefer "Classical Gas" when referring to these old warhorses and leave "Tactical" for the AR crowd
 
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If anyone has done this...by all means please step forward and be THRASHED and otherwise deservedly ridiculed for your efforts!!! ;) Seriously...why is it that people want to F-up an otherwise perfectly good battle rifle and a historical icon by adding all sorts of tacticool @#$% to it? Let them well enough alone, damnit. OK...rant off.

There have been various attempts over the years to make the Garand more "tactical" in a sense (if you want to call it that), including shortened barreled versions like the Tanker (and others), synthetic instead of traditional wood furniture, all sorts of half-assed scope mount setups like the scout rails, rear sight replacement mounts, etc. (not including the G&H M1C setups and other period-correct mounting systems like that of the M1Ds), and pistol grip stocks (Sage Intl makes the EBR chassis in various configs for the Garand, and you can use the Nigerian BM59 stocks with grips, etc., etc.). Again...rant back on momentarily...there are literally tons of aftermarket parts and accessories available for you to thoroughly "bubba" your Garand to your heart's content (if you can stomach doing it).

As for brass, reloading for the Garand, etc., etc... its best to have a search around and glean some good information on the particulars of safe and accurate reloads for the Garand. Because of the nature of the Garand, there are several issues that need to be addressed when reloading for them, including seating primers properly, restrictions on powders that will/will NOT work safely/properly with the Garand because of burn rate issues, bullet weights that can/cannot be used safely, differences between reloading commercial and GI/Surplus brass, etc., etc. There are also some adjustable plugs that will give you more flexibility in terms of the ammo/loads you can safely use like the Schuster adjustable gas plugs for one example.
 
ORD said:
If anyone has done this...by all means please step forward and be THRASHED and otherwise deservedly ridiculed for your efforts!!! ;) Seriously...why is it that people want to F-up an otherwise perfectly good battle rifle and a historical icon by adding all sorts of tacticool @#$% to it? Let them well enough alone, damnit. OK...rant off.

There have been various attempts over the years to make the Garand more "tactical" in a sense (if you want to call it that), including shortened barreled versions like the Tanker (and others), synthetic instead of traditional wood furniture, all sorts of half-assed scope mount setups like the scout rails, rear sight replacement mounts, etc. (not including the G&H M1C setups and other period-correct mounting systems like that of the M1Ds), and pistol grip stocks (Sage Intl makes the EBR chassis in various configs for the Garand, and you can use the Nigerian BM59 stocks with grips, etc., etc.). Again...rant back on momentarily...there are literally tons of aftermarket parts and accessories available for you to thoroughly "bubba" your Garand to your heart's content (if you can stomach doing it).

As for brass, reloading for the Garand, etc., etc... its best to have a search around and glean some good information on the particulars of safe and accurate reloads for the Garand. Because of the nature of the Garand, there are several issues that need to be addressed when reloading for them, including seating primers properly, restrictions on powders that will/will NOT work safely/properly with the Garand because of burn rate issues, bullet weights that can/cannot be used safely, differences between reloading commercial and GI/Surplus brass, etc., etc. There are also some adjustable plugs that will give you more flexibility in terms of the ammo/loads you can safely use like the Schuster adjustable gas plugs for one example.
Click to expand...

Now don't get your panties in a knot. Im not saying Im going to do anything like that. Actually Im going to get a new wood stock for it. Either from FA or Boyds. Im not sure which one yet. My SA circa 7/1943 M1 went through WW2 (I think) and Korea. The stock is beat and the hand guards are cooked, baked and fried. I want to keep its original parts in the condition they are in now and the hand guards are especially weak. The rear one is cracked in 2 places. I just ordered the 4 port Schuster gas nut. It just sounds like a damn good idea. I love this rifle. I have owned it for 11 years and I just got a new bbl for it and it runs damn good. I need to feed it now and throw some new wood at it. I plan to carry it as a bush rifle and maybe hunt a hogs with it. American classic hunting rifle... And I want to get into some Garand matches with it. As for commercial brass, Is Remington brass going to work? Going to run M2 load with IMR 4895 and 150gr. FMJ BT. Now I got a adjustable gas port for it. Will I get a couple reloads out of commercial brass?
 
Should be fine with what you have listed.... I have several reloads on both commercial (Rem. Win. and PMC ) and Mil brass just watch the trim to on the brass and keep them trimmed
I also use the bent paperclip trick to check for incipient case separation
FMJs for hogs ? Tenn. doesn't allow FMJ for hunting but 150 Spires work just fine also.. mine also likes the 178 AMAX and IMR 4064
I would think the adj gas plug would help with brass life also.
 
LngRngShtr said:
Should be fine with what you have listed.... I have several reloads on both commercial (Rem. Win. and PMC ) and Mil brass just watch the trim to on the brass and keep them trimmed
I also use the bent paperclip trick to check for incipient case separation
FMJs for hogs ? Tenn. doesn't allow FMJ for hunting but 150 Spires work just fine also.. mine also likes the 178 AMAX and IMR 4064
I would think the adj gas plug would help with brass life also.
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Cool. I was thinking a 150gr FMJ for playing and a 150 or 155gr Hornady SST for hunting? Was going to run IMR 4895 and H4895. Are the loads different between the two powders?
 
H 4895 and IMR 4895 are NOT interchangeable.... Reloading magazine did an article about the two awhile back though close do not mix data

was looking at 165 SST at one point once I use up my stockpiles of Sierras might have to go RED.
 
I load tons of '06 for the Garand, mostly Winchester Brass. I never saw that it was excessively hard on brass. I don't load hot, (47 grns IMR 4895 with 168, 174 SMKs and pulled 174s) I also load lighter bullets and cast bullets for reduce range practice.

As to "tactical" How much more tactical can you get then the rifle carried on the beaches of Normandy.
 
kraigWY said:
I load tons of '06 for the Garand, mostly Winchester Brass. I never saw that it was excessively hard on brass. I don't load hot, (47 grns IMR 4895 with 168, 174 SMKs and pulled 174s) I also load lighter bullets and cast bullets for reduce range practice.

As to "tactical" How much more tactical can you get then the rifle carried on the beaches of Normandy.
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47grs of IMR4895... This seems to be the standard load? You run the same charge for all three bullet weights? I wonder what the equivelent would be for H4895?? Does it matter if they are flat base or boat tail? Or does the 47gr charge of IMR4895 work for all?
 
Ballistic Artist said:
Fulton armory makes a scout rail for the M1.
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Ultimak makes one too. It's a lower profile. It won't hold three kitchen sinks, dual bipods, and a pistol bayonet, but it might hold something simple while still allowing the full use of the nice long sight radius when the rail mounted stuff is removed...

I've got a Garand... I enjoy it so much. A shooter with a Boyd's stock. I like the idea of the Ultimak, but...yeah...I kind of struggle with the idea of having a rail on it. I saw one of the Fulton style ones mounted on a Garand with a pistol scope mounted in that scout position. Looked like it probably worked very well. Still...
 
The Garand has the same barrel twist as the M1903. The twist was selected to shoot the then new 172 FMJ boat tail M1906/M1 ball ammo. The Garand will do fine shooting 150's but most will show more accuracy shooting 165's to 185's. If you are really going to stretch her out use the 175's or 180's as 168's have a bad habit of coming in tail first at a 1000. Port pressure is key to safe operation of the Garand. The most common problem is over flexing the op rod and bending it. IMR 4895 was designed for the Garand and any of the dozens of powders in the burn range near 4895 will do. There are more temp stable powders now that will be more consistent than 4895 so don't be scared to try different powder, primer, bullet and brass combos to get the most out of your rifle. Lubrication is very important as well to a good working rifle so do not neglect this aspect of rifle care. I've tried or tested about everything made for the Garand building guns for people and it always comes back to proper fitted stock and a tuned trigger. I prefer wood and steel and the fiberglass and nylon stocks I've seen are not as well made as they could be. They just do not live up to the potential that they should for a stable shooting platform. Dimensional problems and just to much fles is the main issue there. If building for accuracy only go with a nice Laminate wood stock set. They can be attractive and do reduce the issues with weather induced changes to point of impact. Most scope set ups are forced to place the scope to the left side as the Garand as it is a top loaded and ejected weapon. This places the scope about an 1.5 inch high and left of the bore. if you zero the scope on these to the POI it will only be zeroed at that distance. I set up M1C's and M1D's and clones to shoot 1.5 up and left at 100 yards so that the line of sight and the bore axis are the same at all distance. I do not like the pistol scope/scout set up as the field of view through those scopes is so small that it's only real effective use is for stationary targets, i.e. shooting paper. As Gen. Patton said, "the best battle rifle ever devised".
 
Close, but not quite there.

The Army tried M1 Cart (172 gr) but went to the M2 (149 gr) because of the recoil effecting the soldier's shooting. You really wont know that much difference in the sight settings on the Garand. For example at 100 yards the angle of departure in minutes is 2.7 for the M1, and 2.3 for the M2.

At 1000 yards the angle of departure for the M1 is 43.5 and for the M2 is 44.6. Very few Garand Shooters, including using the M84 on the M1C/D, can shoot well enough to tell the difference in the Garand.

As to the offset, you sight it in just like any other rifle. If you sight it in at 1.5 inches left at 100, its gonna be 3 left at 200, 4.5 at 300, etc etc.

I use to run sniper schools using the M1C/D's and this came up in every class. Can't tell people, you have to let them find out for them selves. Every time they found they had a better zero at 900 yards (max range of the sights) sighting the rifle in normally then if you tried to off set the zero.

Again, for anyone who is really serious about the M1 Garand, you should get a copy of Hatcher's "Book of the Garand".
 
I have to completely disagree.

The scope having an offset to the left of 1.5 inch zeroed at 100 to the point of impact the weapon will have a POI of 1.5 to the let at 200 if no windage correction is made. I've built quite a few M1d's and shot them for many decades. The POI change is 3.0 inch at 300 and 4.5 at 400 and so on. The error induced by not compensating the offset is compounded ever 100 yards by number of yardage divided by 100 and that number multiplied by the offset. That's using 100 yards as the point of zero. Therefore 200 yards becomes a multiplier of 1. If the zero is set closer or farther out then that value becomes the effective multiplier. Two intersecting straight lines never intersect twice. You have to adjust the scope to parallel the bore so as to only have to make elevation adjustments. I was taught this by Hook Boulton himself. Hook knows a few things about sniping as well; he was on the Design team that replaced the M1D with the M21 system and he taught sniping in Viet Nam on two tours of duty and taught here at Ft. Benning for a number of years. If your position was true then why does canting a scope even a faction of a degree move the POI left of right?

As for testing and accepting the M2 ball round as the standard combat ammunition for the Garand it does not change the fact the M1 uses the same rifle twist as the 1903 and A3 rifles and this twist was selected for the heavier M1906/M1 ball cartridge. To illustrate this the M72 match 30-06 ammunition is in fact the same load as the M1906/M1 cartridge. If the M2 was a superior round then there would not have been any reason to continue to load a 172 Grain Boat tail bullet as a match cartridge. Nor would match shooter prefer it over the M2 ball ammo which was very much disliked for for match shooting.

kraigWY said:
Close, but not quite there.

The Army tried M1 Cart (172 gr) but went to the M2 (149 gr) because of the recoil effecting the soldier's shooting. You really wont know that much difference in the sight settings on the Garand. For example at 100 yards the angle of departure in minutes is 2.7 for the M1, and 2.3 for the M2.

At 1000 yards the angle of departure for the M1 is 43.5 and for the M2 is 44.6. Very few Garand Shooters, including using the M84 on the M1C/D, can shoot well enough to tell the difference in the Garand.

As to the offset, you sight it in just like any other rifle. If you sight it in at 1.5 inches left at 100, its gonna be 3 left at 200, 4.5 at 300, etc etc.

I use to run sniper schools using the M1C/D's and this came up in every class. Can't tell people, you have to let them find out for them selves. Every time they found they had a better zero at 900 yards (max range of the sights) sighting the rifle in normally then if you tried to off set the zero.

Again, for anyone who is really serious about the M1 Garand, you should get a copy of Hatcher's "Book of the Garand".
Click to expand...
 
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ORD said:
If anyone has done this...by all means please step forward and be THRASHED and otherwise deservedly ridiculed for your efforts!!! ;) Seriously...why is it that people want to F-up an otherwise perfectly good battle rifle and a historical icon by adding all sorts of tacticool @#$% to it? Let them well enough alone, damnit. OK...rant off.

There have been various attempts over the years to make the Garand more "tactical" in a sense (if you want to call it that), including shortened barreled versions like the Tanker (and others), synthetic instead of traditional wood furniture, all sorts of half-assed scope mount setups like the scout rails, rear sight replacement mounts, etc. (not including the G&H M1C setups and other period-correct mounting systems like that of the M1Ds), and pistol grip stocks (Sage Intl makes the EBR chassis in various configs for the Garand, and you can use the Nigerian BM59 stocks with grips, etc., etc.). Again...rant back on momentarily...there are literally tons of aftermarket parts and accessories available for you to thoroughly "bubba" your Garand to your heart's content (if you can stomach doing it).

As for brass, reloading for the Garand, etc., etc... its best to have a search around and glean some good information on the particulars of safe and accurate reloads for the Garand. Because of the nature of the Garand, there are several issues that need to be addressed when reloading for them, including seating primers properly, restrictions on powders that will/will NOT work safely/properly with the Garand because of burn rate issues, bullet weights that can/cannot be used safely, differences between reloading commercial and GI/Surplus brass, etc., etc. There are also some adjustable plugs that will give you more flexibility in terms of the ammo/loads you can safely use like the Schuster adjustable gas plugs for one example.
Click to expand...

While you're ranting states like California, NY, and Connecticut have or are in process of trying to implement bans on what they consider "assault rifles", usually defined as a semi-automatic rifle that excepts detachable magazines. The Garand and a few others may soon become the ONLY "tactical" rifle of choice. Us gun enthusiasts that reside in one these significantly safer states need to explore all options after the cleansing we've been dealt by our elected officials.
 
I thought I read some place that the reason they went to the M2 from the M1 was the fact that many NG ranges were not long enough to support the M1 and they needed to make a round that would support shorter NG ranges.
 
The M1 garand as it was issued is about as "tactical" as any rifleman would need back in the day, semi-auto, ultra reliable, power to spare for punching through most cover.
When you hit someone with an 06' the stay hit.
It was the weapon that won WWII, Korea etc. It was the ONLY weapon that did not freeze during the Chosin campaign battle-http://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/arms-chosin-few-2/

Now, if you are looking for something with picatinney rails and with a "tacticool" look-the M1 aint it. Get yourself an AR or even an M1A-you can drop it in a sage stock and look as starwars as the next guy..
 
Dark Horse said:
While you're ranting states like California, NY, and Connecticut have or are in process of trying to implement bans on what they consider "assault rifles", usually defined as a semi-automatic rifle that excepts detachable magazines. The Garand and a few others may soon become the ONLY "tactical" rifle of choice. Us gun enthusiasts that reside in one these significantly safer states need to explore all options after the cleansing we've been dealt by our elected officials.
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I know that most people here consider the interchangeable use of magazine and clip or the use of "magazine clip" as sloppy, however, I see it as thoughtful and intentional. Be careful in your assumption that your Garand and it's detachable and reusable ammunition clip is safe because a "clip" is not a "magazine..."
 
You either will have a single shot rifle with the scope over the bore or a clip fed rifle with the scope beside the bore, unless you mount the scope in a scout configuration. That is a root issue you will be struggling with on your "tactical" build of the M1.
 
I'm not suggesting to deck out a Garand to be "tacticool" and I'm not a huge fan of AR's to begin with, they have their place and I understand the popularity of the platform. CURRENTLY, the Garand is exempt from the assault rifle ban in NY, (I guess Cuomo hasn't seen Gran Torino yet..let's hope he isn't a member here), what I believe would be useful under the current legal definition would be a Garand with an 18-20" barrel, Ultimak forward type scout rail for either a red dot or low-power scout scope and side mounted picatinny rail for a light.

Not an ideal close-range setup but better than nothing when it's all you can legally own.
 
My Garand is modified slightly to improve sighting and ergonomics for my 6' 5" frame. There is a hard rubber butt pad that adds about 1" to LOP, and it has the N/M rear aperture coupled with an aftermarket hooded front sight that accepts replaceable post/ring/whatever inserts. The rifle has been bedded and refinished using Tru-Oil.

At this point, the question becomes "what do we mean by a Tactical Garand". If we mean Sniper, I don't think the rifle adapts readily or especially effectively to the task. The M1C and M1D are fine for their purpose, but I don't see them overshadowing the M-24 or M40 anytime soon. If we mean Main Battle Rifle, the M1 Garand is already a stellar example of the concept as envisioned in an earlier time when full power cartridges were the norm. For my purposes, I would consider mine as an Improved Vintage Main Battle Rifle.

I have consistently used Remington brass for my handloads, F/L resized with CCI-200 primers, 150gr HDY FMJBT, and 50.0gr of IMR-4064. My rifle is used currently as a paper puncher at distances out to 250yd, and has competed at 600yd with the preceding handload. Beyond 600yd, I would use the 175SMK and 48.0gr of IMR-4064.

Greg
 
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Dark Horse;2453133what I believe would be useful under the current legal definition would be a Garand with an 18-20" barrel said:
Dude you're delusional if you think you are going to successfully modify a 24" barreled M1 down to an 18-20" barrel.

Enjoy your time in fantasyland.
Click to expand...
 
EastBayRidge said:
Personally, I'd like to see a tactical Springfield Model 1861. 3 foot of pic rail and a Magpul PRS should dampen some of the recoil...
Click to expand...

Give people enough real estate and they'll find @#$% to mount on it to make just about anything more "tacticool." ;)

As to Dark Horse...
Don't get irritated with me for offering a tongue in cheek comment on tacticooling an M1 Garand. Sure I poked fun at all those looking to otherwise bubba a perfectly good Garand, but I also provided some excellent sources for PG stock options and the like as the OP requested. As with all things in the firearms/accessories world, beauty and functionality are 100% in the eye of the beholder. Similarly, taking a rifle like the M1 Garand and "customizing" it (I use that word in the VERY loosest sense imaginable), is something that only the owner/trigger-puller can really understand/desire/etc. If you want to bubba one...then by all means...have at it. Its your rifle. I'd just hate to see a bunch of Garands making their way into the hands of those poor folks deep behind enemy lines in NY, CA, CT, etc. after the impending legislation goes through, only to be bastardized into some of the similar abominations that have been seen with "sporterizing" 03s, Mausers, and dozens of other such rifles over the last 60 years or so. The simple fact is that they aren't making any more M1 Garands and haven't for some time now (aside from the Springfields that came out a while ago which most people agree are somewhat inferior when compared to their USGI counterpart rifles). Every time somebody hacks one up, takes a Dremel to it, starts drilling/tapping receivers, or otherwise modifying them beyond all recognition, etc., etc., etc., we lose yet another piece of American history that, in my humble opinion, deserves better than that! Again...your comfort level...your rifle...your call. ;)

Oh...and just so you don't think I'm picking on you...here's some more instructive advice for you and others considering more "Tactical" Garands. If you REALLY want a shorter, 18"-20" barrel, there are companies out there that offer "Tanker" conversions (or similarly equipped complete rifles) that have 18.25" barrels such as Dean's Gun Restorations (DGR) as seen here: DGR - Dean's Gun Restorations as well as Fulton Armory's T26S Garands just to name a few: Fulton Armory T26S Garand Scout * . There are others out there as well...just to your homework. Hope that helps you some in your research/decision-making process though.
 
Every time somebody hacks one up, takes a Dremel to it, starts drilling/tapping receivers, or otherwise modifying them beyond all recognition, etc., etc., etc., we lose yet another piece of American history
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Well said.

I got my Garand in '80 or 81, when DCM ran the program. It was a "once a life time" buy back then. You didn't get a choice, you got what they sent you (at the price of $112.7 delivered to Anchorage).

I got a good one, but there were a few nicks and dings on the stock. Wouldn't replace that stock for anything. Even now, I look at it (as well as my other surplus US Military rifles, and wonder what the past owner was doing, and where, when it got those nicks and dings.

When I got my CMP Carbine I ordered a "used sling". Had a guys name written on the underside. My wife did a search and found there were two guys with that name serving in WWII, one in the South Pacific and one in Europe.

You can always booger something up, but you can never replace history.

I'm not saying don't shoot the things, I do, all of my surplus rifles. But I don't modify them. The only exception is my M1903a4. Its a parts gun, made from the same type parts used to make the 'A4 per TM 9-1270 "Ordnance Maintenance "US Rifle, Cal. .30, M1903, M1903A1, M1903A3 and M1903A4, dated 20 Jan 1944.

This rifle fits the rules of the CMP GSM Vintage Sniper Match and will be used in these matches.

As I said, I don't see how you can get a M1 any more tactical then it was when it stormed the Beaches at Normandy, or defended the Crossroads at Bastogne.
 
9H_Cracka said:
Dude you're delusional if you think you are going to successfully modify a 24" barreled M1 down to an 18-20" barrel.

Enjoy your time in fantasyland.
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Your advice pretty much matches your location. Took me all of 3 seconds to find almost exactly what was I was referring to on Fulton Armory's website.

Fulton Armory T26S Garand Scout *

Part #: FA-M1G-T26S


Price: $2,149.95





















*MUST ship to FFL (Hows does this work?)


The T26 Garand Scout comes standard with our Super Scout Handguard Rail which allows over-bore mounting of modern sight systems without removal of the standard iron sights. The OPTIONAL Super Scout Accessory Rail allows the side-mounting of laser sights or lighting devices.
.

Standard Features

•Receiver: Original USGI
•Barrel: Fulton Armory .30-'06, 18.25" 1x10, Tanker Contour, National Match Quality
•Parts: GI & True Mil Spec Throughout, G.I. Bolt & Op Rod
◦Shortened & Modified:
■Follower Rod
■Op Rod
■Op Rod Spring
■Lower band
•Stock: New Walnut, Hand Selected, Lovingly Fit, & Beautifully Finished With Linseed Oil
◦Front Handguard: Shortened "Tanker Variant"

◦Rear Handguard: FA, Super Scout, 3-Way Picatinny Rail




•Included Accessories: 8 Round Clip, Canvas Sling, & Owners Manual
•Fulton Armory Precision Guarantee: Under 2.5 MOA (With Hornady® Match™ Ammunition)
 
Wasn't trying to attack you and up until about a year ago I would have said something similar about destroying a piece of history just to be cool, but times have changed and options severley limited in some areas. I've been thinking about this for years about what I would be left with if a ban on semi-auto rifles with any detchable magazine actually became a reality. And this wasn't or isn't the path I followed due to some creativity with several M14's I have, I was merely offering an opinion as to what a more manageable Garand for today's climate may look like. I've done the research and have backup plans for my backup plans.
 
Dark Horse said:
Wasn't trying to attack you and up until about a year ago I would have said something similar about destroying a piece of history just to be cool, but times have changed and options severley limited in some areas. I've been thinking about this for years about what I would be left with if a ban on semi-auto rifles with any detchable magazine actually became a reality. And this wasn't or isn't the path I followed due to some creativity with several M14's I have, I was merely offering an opinion as to what a more manageable Garand for today's climate may look like. I've done the research and have backup plans for my backup plans.
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Not taken as an "attack" in any sense of the word. No worries. I can tell from your posts that you are frustrated/irritated/etc. beyond words and were I in your position (which we all could be in the not-too-distant future, God forbid, if things don't change at the federal level and we don't keep up the fight), I certainly would be too. That was why I gave the links to the DGR Tanker conversions and the T26S above. They are quality, reproductions of the "Tanker" model (albeit with the goofy scout rail on the T26S) that give you more portability/compactness while retaining the heart/soul of the rifle (or at least one of its "variations" as seen throughout the rifle's long and distinguished service life). With available parts at your disposal, returning a Garand modified in the fashion of DGR, etc., can be returned to its "as issued" condition without TOO MUCH trouble.

Hang in there, brother!
 
No thanks, you couldn't get me to go through the airport in NY let alone live there. I'd offer the same to you, but Utah is full however.
 
ORD said:
You mean like this ABORTION (I just threw up seeing this photo...sorry if I have caused anyone else any negligent infliction of emotional distress):

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The scary thing is I actually thought I was the first to come up with a tactical K98 because NOONE could see the utility/sense in doing it. Wow.
 
TheGerman said:
The scary thing is I actually thought I was the first to come up with a tactical K98 because NOONE could see the utility/sense in doing it. Wow.
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Sadly...there are others. I did a quick images search on google and that thing popped up. Ugly...pointless...just sad, sad, SAD!! :( :confused: :(
 
The Mini-G by Shuff's Parkerizing is a fun and interesting short barreled Garand, comes with the Schuster adjustable gas plug. It certainly is a better handling Garand, glad I got it.
 
crumpett said:
The Mini-G by Shuff's Parkerizing is a fun and interesting short barreled Garand, comes with the Schuster adjustable gas plug. It certainly is a better handling Garand, glad I got it.
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Interested to know more about the specs on your rifle. Accuracy, barrel make, stock, etc.
 
A word of caution on the Shuff's conversions...their setup is almost entirely reliant on proprietary parts thanks to their choice to go to the 16.1" barrel instead of the readily accepted "Tanker" components like the 18.25" barrel and accompanying op rod, follower rod, etc., etc. As a result, if you need to source replacement parts for your Mini-G...you are stuck with getting them direct from Shuffs as the more commonly available "Tanker" parts will NOT interchange. Just take that into consideration before you jump head first into one of their conversions because who knows where you'll be a few years, decades, etc. down the road in terms of sourcing parts if Shuffs doors are closed by then short of having to bear the burden/expense of having "one-off" parts made to fit/function on your rifle.
 

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ORD said:
If anyone has done this...by all means please step forward and be THRASHED and otherwise deservedly ridiculed for your efforts!!! ;) Seriously...why is it that people want to F-up an otherwise perfectly good battle rifle and a historical icon by adding all sorts of tacticool @#$% to it? Let them well enough alone, damnit. OK...rant off.
Click to expand...

Well, as you may guess from my screen name, I love the Garand and the M1A/M14.

That said, I will be the first to tell you that the stock on both rifles is absolutely shit from the factory. If one were to get a proper cheek weld on either the Garand or the M1A, his eyeball would be positioned precisely with the bottom of the rear of the receiver. Only a man with a huge head would actually be looking through the sights.

This is why the old timers have come up with the trick of putting the joint of your thumb underneath your cheek to get the elevation you need to actually use the sights. And for the same reason, many people try to add cheek risers to both rifles, but none of the commercially available pre-sized risers have much success in fixing the problem.

Sometimes people even add the cheek riser that shifts your eye to the left of the bore axis, which is a riser that was meant to be used with the M1C, not a standard Garand. Others use tape and foam and all sorts of shit to try and raise their head up, and others go the smart route and either switch stocks or add one of Karsten's kydex risers.

So I firmly believe an upgrade of the stock with a cheek riser and an upgrade to NM sights will benefit even the most hardened user of the true American battle rifles.

Trying to get everybody to shoot the rifle as it came is like trying to issue everyone a size nine shoe and telling them to go run a foot race. Sounds great, but doesn't work for shit. The design and function of the M1 and M14 are superb mechanically. In my opinion, these are the finest two rifles ever made, but ergonomically left a bit to be desired.

M1Amen
 
nightwolf0215 said:
Juggernaut Tactical makes custom chassis for the M1A, but I dont know how much mod it needs to fit the M1 Garand.
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The top-loading enbloc clip precludes the use of the Juggernaut bull pup stock even if it would fit. Having held and shot the Juggernaut bull pup, I am pretty sure the Garand would not even fit into the stock due to differences in the gas system.

M1Amen
 
Ballistic Artist said:
Hey All,
Has anyone ever set up a M1 Garand as a tactical rifle? Fulton armory makes a scout rail for the M1. Anyone know of any other companies that make trick parts for the Garand? Was wondering if anyone has done anything this off the wall with a Garand? Also, Is Remington brass ok to shoot through a Garand? I guess they are hard on brass. Has anyone ever loaded for one? Thanks in advance.
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If you want a truly tactical Garand, get an M1A. I believe the bolt roller system and the gas system are both superior to the rollerless bolt of the Garand and the Garand's piston-less gas system.
 
Here is a pretty good picture (painting) of a couple "tactical" Garands.

Hang-Tough_-Bastogne-1944.jpeg
 
kraigWY said:
Here is a pretty good picture (painting) of a couple "tactical" Garands.
Click to expand...

Bastogne in the dead of winter in 1944...yep...the M1 Garand didn't need to be any more "tactical" then and it got the job done pretty well!

Great pic/painting, Kraig...thanks for putting that up.
 


It's a rack grade greek return M1 from the CMP North Store. I bought it because I had a 1953 LMR barrel on it with virtually no wear at all. And it shoots better than any other M1 I have (SA or H&R).

The stock was some kind of wood that wouldnt' take stain or oil for beans. Looked like it had "white" spots all over it and I tried to refinish it a couple of times. The rifle also "bounced" around in the stock. You could wiggle the receiver back and forth sideways and up and down. It the stock had been decent it might have been worth trying to bed it but no use wasting time with an ugly stock. In order to shoot it while working on the stock I bought a $50 ramline synthetic stock for it to wear. It shot so good I left it in the ramline after I put a camo paint job on it. As for the Amega Ranges scout scope mount? Well, my eyes just won't focus on the front sight anymore unless I'm in real bright sunlight, so I put a LER 2X8 pistol scope on it and it worked out real well.

As or "tactical" if that means shooting lots of bullets that ricochet, don't penetrate very well, and were originally meant for small furry varmints, then I guess an M1 ain't tactical. If it means quickly removing threats without regard for distance/cover with style and ease then maybe the M1 is "tactical". I like my M1. It fits me very well. I like my other M1's, too. I just can' shoot them as well due to eyesight issues.
 
Hmm, a tactical M1 Garand... throw a lever on the bottom and you got yourself a Mossberg
 
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