Yea like i said i think i got lucky. mine fits super tight. I did try for a few minutes to get the factory barrel nut off and it was on there SUPER tight. the shaw barrel should be at home now i'm anxious to get it on.
- Thread starter Subwrx300
- Start date
Just got my ER Shaw barrel yesterday and got a chance to put it on. Just a few notes about this barrel. 1. I got the barrel on my door step one day after i ordered it. i live in Ohio and they're out of PA. awesome service. 2. it came packaged very well, no chance the barrel would be damaged during shipping. 3. the factory barrel was SUPER hard to get off, like others have said in this thread it had some weird gritty almost sand like oil on it. 3. be careful with installation, they're very very easy to scratch. i'm not sure if it wasn't machined 100% right but for whatever reason the barrel nut made contact about half way down the barrel and took a small amount of force to get past and i scratched it. Not a big deal but just fyi. i don't believe in break in but just for shits and gigs i followed the procedure of fellow posters, it was pretty awesome to watch the groups get tighter and tighter. i used federal automatch white box stuff and i was getting single jagged hole groups at 50 without much effort. the one i got is 20 inch and its going to be an absolute tac driver. gun/barrel/optic/bipod still less than a cz 455 trainer gun alone. i also spoke with the folks at timney yesterday and their trigger for the rprf will be out the last week of april. anywho, all good info and i'm looking forward to seeing how much better this thing is at 200+.
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You’ll love the trigger. I have a beta model and love it. It completes the package.
definitely looking forward to it. i really would like to get in some nrl22 matches but i live in ohio and i didn't see any in state. closest i saw was in Tennessee.
You'd be more than welcome to show up at our NRL22 matches here in TN! You might even consider the SE Regionals this April 13th. You don't have to be a NRL22 member to attend this match. It'll be 12 stages from 25 yards and possibly up to 370 yards. Details on the match at:
I've donated a Savage rifle to the local group to be given away at the match as a random draw. So everyone just competing has a chance at a decent prize:
That said, I know that there are NRL matches held in Ohio as there's at least one group coming down for the regional match. Looking at the NRL22 website I found these matches in Ohio and they should be listed in order of the ones closest to you:
I've donated a Savage rifle to the local group to be given away at the match as a random draw. So everyone just competing has a chance at a decent prize:
That said, I know that there are NRL matches held in Ohio as there's at least one group coming down for the regional match. Looking at the NRL22 website I found these matches in Ohio and they should be listed in order of the ones closest to you:
You'd be more than welcome to show up at our NRL22 matches here in TN! You might even consider the SE Regionals this April 13th. You don't have to be a NRL22 member to attend this match. It'll be 12 stages from 25 yards and possibly up to 370 yards. Details on the match at:
I've donated a Savage rifle to the local group to be given away at the match as a random draw. So everyone just competing has a chance at a decent prize:
That said, I know that there are NRL matches held in Ohio as there's at least one group coming down for the regional match. Looking at the NRL22 website I found these matches in Ohio and they should be listed in order of the ones closest to you:
Awesome, thanks for the info. I'll check them out.
Got a chance to get about 6-700 rounds through the new shaw barrel. I took a few of the types of ammo that the factory barrel liked best. It really liked Eley target for 50 yards and anything beyond that eley force does very well. Attached is a few groups from force and target, take out a few flyers here and there which were 100% caused by me and those numbers would be significantly smaller. overall so far i've been impressed with this barrel over factory. is it 300 dollars good? eh maybe not. but still fun.
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Hello All!
Great work all of you! The contribution to this thread is simply amazing! After reading this thread I purchased an 18" Shaw barrel. Installation was very straight forward. I used copper antiseize and it went in with very little effort. I followed the recommended break in and after about 100 rounds of Automatch I shifted to "better" ammo and zero'd at 50 yards. I only used GreenTag, SK standard plus, Wolf MT, Wolf Extra and Eley Match black box. I was shooting with 3 other people so I didn't Chrono any of it but all shot noticeably hotter than out of the factory barrel. The SK Std + was just at 1"-1.1". The greenTag was just under an inch. The wolf MT was .5-.6. as was the Wolf extra. The Eley Match was .3-.4. All these groups were 10 shot groups. I was clearing my small KYL (2"-1/4") without misses using the Wolf MT and Extra. After getting bored with hitting everything at will including the 1/4" spinner at will we moved back to 100 yards. All the info I have seen indicates that +2.1 mils at 100 is pretty standard so using hold overs to begin with and staying with the Wolf MT hitting 2 inch targets was pretty consistant if I did my part but I couldn't hit anything smaller than the 2" paddle of the KYL using hold overs. I realized that 2.1 mils was not "perfect" so I took the time to zero at 100y and POA=POI at 100y was 1.9mils not 2.1 mils because of the increase muzzle velocity with the Shaw barrel. After setting my zero at 50y + 1.9 mils I cleared the small KYL (2"-13/4-11/2-11/4-1-3/4-1/2-1/4) and followed the 1/4 back to back! To say I am pleased with the Shaw 18" barrel is an understatement! I "bedded" the action block and removed the trigger adjustment spring which has my trigger pull consistently at 12-14oz as others have stated. I have SK Rifle match, SK Pistol Match and Pistol Match Special to test next outing, but with the Wolf MT shooting as well as it did it is hard to beat the price/performance out of my rig. I will also get Chrono numbers also.
Great work all of you! The contribution to this thread is simply amazing! After reading this thread I purchased an 18" Shaw barrel. Installation was very straight forward. I used copper antiseize and it went in with very little effort. I followed the recommended break in and after about 100 rounds of Automatch I shifted to "better" ammo and zero'd at 50 yards. I only used GreenTag, SK standard plus, Wolf MT, Wolf Extra and Eley Match black box. I was shooting with 3 other people so I didn't Chrono any of it but all shot noticeably hotter than out of the factory barrel. The SK Std + was just at 1"-1.1". The greenTag was just under an inch. The wolf MT was .5-.6. as was the Wolf extra. The Eley Match was .3-.4. All these groups were 10 shot groups. I was clearing my small KYL (2"-1/4") without misses using the Wolf MT and Extra. After getting bored with hitting everything at will including the 1/4" spinner at will we moved back to 100 yards. All the info I have seen indicates that +2.1 mils at 100 is pretty standard so using hold overs to begin with and staying with the Wolf MT hitting 2 inch targets was pretty consistant if I did my part but I couldn't hit anything smaller than the 2" paddle of the KYL using hold overs. I realized that 2.1 mils was not "perfect" so I took the time to zero at 100y and POA=POI at 100y was 1.9mils not 2.1 mils because of the increase muzzle velocity with the Shaw barrel. After setting my zero at 50y + 1.9 mils I cleared the small KYL (2"-13/4-11/2-11/4-1-3/4-1/2-1/4) and followed the 1/4 back to back! To say I am pleased with the Shaw 18" barrel is an understatement! I "bedded" the action block and removed the trigger adjustment spring which has my trigger pull consistently at 12-14oz as others have stated. I have SK Rifle match, SK Pistol Match and Pistol Match Special to test next outing, but with the Wolf MT shooting as well as it did it is hard to beat the price/performance out of my rig. I will also get Chrono numbers also.
Have any of you guys with the Shaw barrels had feeding issues? mine just will not feed any types of rounds i have to slam the bolt basically every time and i know the edge of the barrel cuts the round so its probably messing with the accuracy big time. Also, i know these are notorious for extracting which mine was but the new barrel made it 10 times worse. half of the rounds get stuck in the chamber and the other have barely extract. not sure if it needs shimmed or what the heck the deal is but its frustrating. I've emailed Shaw about it twice and have not heard back. pretty disappointed if I'm honest. Thought a 280 dollar barrel would make life easier not worse.
No feeding issues at all with mine. I get an occasional an un-extracted case every now and then with federal am but that’s it. May want to check your mags to make sure the round isn’t nose diving into the chamber. I bought a Kidd SS plunger and high tension mag release spring and there is no more slop in my mags and no nose diving.
Yea it does that with all of the about 10 mags i've got for it. i talked to the folks at shaw and they're going to take the whole gun and fit the barrel to the bolt and receiver. will update once i get the gun back. I'll check out that stuff from kidd. thanks for the input.
The only feeding issue I really had when I installed my Shaw barrel was how hard it was to close the bolt. I thought that might go away after a while, but it didn't. Because it was closing so hard, it was also hard to unlock, causing me to break my cheek weld. So, I put a shim in to take up about .003 using some aluminum foil. Now the bolt cycling runs as it should and I can cycle it without having much movement of the rifle. The cartridges feed just fine and when extracting an unfired one, my barrel leave a rifling impression on the bearing surface (as match barrel's will do). Using cartridges designed with a larger diameter (like all Winchester's), get stuck in my chamber whether fired or not, not I'll never use them in this gun (though this wasn't a problem with the factory barrel).
where did you get the shims from?
When I saw your solution in using the Kidd plunger, I was about to go that route. But first I deiced to put a shim under the mag assembly (where the bolt fastens to the lower receiver) in order to raise it and get the mag to function as it's supposed for ejection. It worked and the mags now not only are ejecting the cases but the mags are held much more firmly and not requiring a higher tension spring. All's good now.
Interesting. i'll give that a try. thanks!
I cut them out of some aluminum foil from my kitchen (from heavy duty foil I had, though still pretty thin and requiring more than one piece).
Thats interesting. i'll have to try thatWhen I saw your solution in using the Kidd plunger, I was about to go that route. But first I deiced to put a shim under the mag assembly (where the bolt fastens to the lower receiver) in order to raise it and get the mag to function as it's supposed for ejection. It worked and the mags now not only are ejecting the cases but the mags are held much more firmly and not requiring a higher tension spring. All's good now.
Awesome. thanks for the info.
I had intermittent feeding issues (usually first round only and only occasionally) but I tracked that down to magazine fit/placement. If the bottom of mag gets tipped forward (towards muzzle) it creates a weird angle that caused ammo to bind.
I solved by shimming the magazine with several layers of aluminum tape. Mag is now solid in stock and zero feed issues.
Also, I disassembled rifle and "crowned/chamfered" the entry to the chamber. Mine was very sharp/crisp, so I used a brass lap to very slightly round the edges of the chamber where bullets feed up into barrel. Helped immensely with consistentcy and with no bullet damage.
Cation: do not alter your chamber without knowledge of possible downsides or dangers.
Do you have a pic of your barrel chamber after you did the rounding?
I took a few but it it's really hard to discern the difference from photo. Basically, I used a light tiny round file to just break the edge (45deg) then used valve grinding compound on a boatail of a 6.5mm bullet chucked backwards in drill (maybe 15-20 seconds) then finished with JB Bore paste to lap and smooth further (2-3 min).
It took very very little metal off but it round the outside edges of chamber so that lead doesn't get cut when entering chamber.
Great stuff! Thanks for the post!!
I tell ya, in my 20 years of shooting i have NEVER had a 22 with as many issues as these and a BOLT gun none the less. Shimmed barre, kidd plunger, so on and it still will not extract rounds. It's super frustrating. I got a hold of ruger a week or so ago and they're sending a replacement extractor/spring but my confidence in that working is very low.
Three reasons it may not be extracting: extraction spring clip too weak; extractor is not "sharp" enough or at correct angle to case; the extractor recess (notch in right side of barrel) is too wide forcing extractor to contact too far outside of rim and slips off.
My guess it's a combination of #2 & #3. Ruger will fix it but I can understand the frustration!
My RPRR has been perfect. It doesn’t toss a first round flyer like my marlin or savage mk2. My magazines all feed fine and eject fine. My friend played with the Rprr of mine and is now buying one he liked it so much.... I’m sorry your having issues with yours. A co worker bought essentially the same rifle in 17hmr and says it functions fine and he’s had no issues with extraction or chambering his. ?
I will admit though I did bend the extraction spring thing a touch to make it really kick the casings out further than it did from the factory.
Yea i bent the extraction spring also but i probably did more harm than good LOL so i'm out of options at this point. Going to throw it in the safe and shoot the 10/22 until the new extractor/spring come. fingers crossed.
So i called ruger last week and they sent out a new extractor spring and extractor. they came yesterday and I only had a chance to to run about 10 rounds through it. I used cci std vel which was the worst for me for not ejecting, normally would get 7-8 out of 10 that would not extract. well out of all 10 it threw them out and seemed to work better. the spring is a BIG noticeable difference but not so much with the extractor. didn't look like it was any sharper than original but did fit more snugly in the bolt. But out of a small sample size it seems to be working properly now. Left is original, right is what ruger just sent me as a replacement. 
now the question of the day...anyone tried to remove the Shaw barrel? If you were successful, how'd you do it?
Tried...failed...decided there wasn't much reason to take it off, so I gave up. Lol.
But seriously, if I were to try taking off in the future, I'd stick the action/barrel in the freezer and then slowly heat up the receiver before attempting to remove; It's that tight. Might be a better way but I'm not aware of it.
After installing the Shaw barrel I found the bold remained hard to close, so I decided to reinstall it with the addition of a shim to give my bolt a little relief. To get it out after removing the barrel nut, I took a long wooden dowel and pounded it out with a mallet. It came out with a few strikes and didn't need to heat the receiver (though I planned to do that with a heat gun if it just wouldn't move). Reinstalled the barrel as planned and it's worked just fine since.
yea i removed mine. and sent it back because it was absolute trash. same with the shaw barrel i had on my 10/22. absolutely awful. lesson learned.
Do it. You won’t regret it. I love my 20 inch. Lowered the sd’s in just about every different brand I’ve tried.
The ER Shaw bbls are pre-headspaced correct?
I am considering trying one out but am worried about extraction issues given the extremely tight lockup...
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks Mike
The only cartridges I had a problem with were those made my Winchester as they produce their's .002 -003 larger in diameter than the other manufacturers. Certainly, there little risk of extraction problems with those that have lubricated bullets . . . even though ER Shaw warns that unfired cartridges are a problem.
So what do you like most about the new bbl and dislike most about it now that you've had it a while?
Obviously the accuracy looks like it is an improvement...
Factory barrel actually shot pretty well. But, even so, I wanted to get improvement in accuracy. And the Shaw barrel didn't disappoint, though the improvement wasn't a particularly dramatic difference over my particular factory barrel. The SS barrel is much easier to clean over the factory barrel. So, the improved accuracy is what I like most, though, I also like the looks of the stainless steel.
When I first got the barrel, I was a little worried about the caution that Shaw had about the difficulty for extracting unfired cartridges. But I've not found that to be any problem at all, even though I noted how extracted cartridges have rifling impressions in the lead bullets into the driver bands.
I suppose, if I had to lable something I "dislike" it'd be the amount of increased velocity I now get with this barrel/chamber. I wasn't expecting to see increases like 40 - 50 fps. For example, in my factory barrel Center-X would give me around 1055 fps and with the Shaw barrel I average around 1105 fps. I like to keep my accurate ammo subsonic, so that can be an issue for some ammo with higher listed MV's (like SK Long Range Match, listed at 1106 fps, where the Shaw barrel give me an average around 1130 fps ). There's nothing I would say I really "dislike" about the barrel, but if anything, it'd be this issue.
Yeah, my Ruger bbl has been bittersweet.
It throws a consistent cold bore flyer every time that is way off from zero, then seems to settle in?...
I have taken it apart and checked the bedding but can't seem to find the problem.
Could be a bbl issue as well.
I will definitely look into getting the ER Shaw bbl.
Thanks for your thoughts.
One last thing, if you don't mind?
What's the best aftermarket bbl nut torque setting?
What's the best aftermarket bbl nut torque setting?
Checking for an answer to this.
Since I didn't have a proper torque wrench when I installed a Shaw barrel onto my RPRR, I simply made it "good and tight" (certainly not over torquing it). I don't feel not having a precise torque will make a difference in the RPRR's performance. Mine has been working just fine having done this quite some time ago.
I don't feel not having a precise torque will make a difference in the RPRR's performance. Mine has been working just fine having done this quite some time ago. Last edited:
After reading this old thread and seeing the posts above about extraction issues, I want to add something here in case it pops up again. I've seen more than one of these guns with extraction issues. While mine ran just fine for the most part, after one failed extraction I took a close look at the bolt. The groove the extractor rides in wasn't machined correctly and there was a tiny shelf that kept the extractor from doing it's job. Being that I'm a jeweler and gun engraver with a fair bit of metalworking and gunsmithing experience it was all of 5 minutes work to clean up the channel with a file and polish things up. If you didn't know what to look for it could certainly drive you nuts. Not a hard job if you are handy working with small parts.
I am interested in purchasing one of these barrels, what factors do I need to consider to choose which length to order?
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