- Thread starter Tyler455
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Nice! Congrats man. Having an end date helps a ton haha.
Man I wish I could have built mine. That would have been so damn cool. Not sure what plastics I’d have gone with. They have 6 different colors. You have a few months to stew on it haha.
Man I wish I could have built mine. That would have been so damn cool. Not sure what plastics I’d have gone with. They have 6 different colors. You have a few months to stew on it haha.
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What all colors are there? I know blue, grey and orange.
Also, I’m debating switching from the 308 to the 6.5. My main concern with the 6.5 is somewhat short range on whitetail. I know it’s capable, but at say 30yd will it drop a whitetail in its tracks with a normal shot right behind the shoulder?
Check the top left hand corner. Those are the six colors they offer. And I believe you can mix and match. Doesn’t have to be all one color.
As for 6.5 vs 308 I’ve sold all my 308s because 6.5 is about the same energy wise inside of 500 yards. The 143 ELDX going 2475 out of a 16 inch barrel. Put those numbers in a calculator compared to 16 inch 308. Less recoil but similar energy. And more than enough to hammer white tails
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Absolutely... IME the .308 does a little better job at dropping them where they are (same round, same barrel length, same distance, different calibers.... pretty obvious) but I have never had a whitetail run more than 10-15 yards with the 22" 6.5 I used this past season. Shots this year were @140y, 195y, 300y, 320y, and 480y. I liked the 22" for 6.5 but the 16" will be effective out to 500y which is pretty realistic for a hunting rifle. When it comes to deer hunting you are really giving up about 100y to the 16" .308 and about 130y to the 22" 6.5 if you use the 1000 ft/lb cutoff (i'm basing this on the 6.5 143gr precision hunter and the .308 178gr precision hunter). At 30 yards you are golden.... if you do your job, the bullet will do its job.
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I think it’s been gone for a while. The 6.5 is there as of yesterday
Thanks for the info. I ordered the 308, but I think I can switch that when I go to the customer build day. If so, I will probably go with the 6.5.
My understanding from listening to their podcasts is that you’re able to basically pick any set up you want. From barrels (proof, Q and 6.5, 6mm, 260 or 308) to plastics to hand guards (Mlok or Qsert) to the length of your top rail. That’s awesome.
When I was there exaxtly 2 weeks ago the 6.5 was gone and the 308 was still there. Did you go in recently? I’m so surprised with the waits that exist for guns that that 308 was there for at least 3 months
That’s pretty cool. I might see about scheduling a customer build day for a mini fix.
Would assume there would be an upcharge for the proof barrel?
I didn’t go in person, the gun library guy told me the 6.5 was the only fix they had, I bought it then returned it.
Yes. They are like 400 more or something like that.
They said they won’t custom order guns. You get what comes on the 308 or the 6.5... unless you do a customer build.
Yeah. Makes me wish I would have done that. It would have been cool to do. But honestly other than plastic colors I wouldn’t have don’t anything different. I wanted a short Carbon barrel and they don’t offer that. I like Q sert and I would have still done the full length rail
Edit. They just posted this on IG: “customer build day”
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Wonder if it is worth the upgrade for me. I have no intention of doing competition shooting. Just want a fun light rifle for hunting and to do some precision shooting for enjoyment.
Well I have a 22inch 6.5 steel barrel (heavy contour) and a custom 6.5 16.5 inch carbon proof which while it’s a heavy profile carbon it weighs the same is their light weight profile 16 inch 308 and 6.5 barrels. Having felt the rifle with both barrels the short barrel is how the gun was meant to feel. I believe that’s why Q went away from the heavy profile 6.5 22 inch to a light profile 16 inch 6.5.
16 inch 6.5 is plenty for hunting in my opinion. I’d do that. Hopefully there should be more barrels come available someday soon
16 inch 6.5 is plenty for hunting in my opinion. I’d do that. Hopefully there should be more barrels come available someday soon
I'm in the same boat with the standard model, none of the barrels really do anything for me. I think I'd be happy with the standard 22" 224V tube though. I mainly just want a 224V without the wait. Picking my own plastics would just be icing on the cake.
These are not competition rifles first of all, I suppose it wouldn't be the worst platform if you screwed on a truck axle contour tube, but comp guns they are not.
They're awesome hunting rifles, that's what I use my current one for and what I will use my second one for thats on the way. The one I have now I bought with the Proof barrel mostly because it was the same price ($2925) as all the stocking dealers had standard models for. None of the standard barrel options really did much more me and I was planning on a Proof 20" 6.5 Creed barrel from the start and I knew the factory Proof barrel would have a good resale value.
I got the rifle and a Proof blank and started shooting the rifle some and sent the blank off to be done and the shop I sent it to said that a 1.20" cylinder barrel wouldn't work (they were wrong) so I just committed to shooting it how it is, plus it shoots great. The rifle is really damn long though considering it's intended purpose. Mine is a 26" and all the Proof models are 24-26" depending on the chambering. By itself the barrel isn't bad but this rifle shines suppressed so add 7" of can to the 26" and it's very long in the field. The rifle would be so much better with a shorter barrel since it's so light.
When this barrel is cooked I won't be ordering a replacement from Q unless they change their lengths (they should). Hopefully by then there will be aftermarket barrel extensions available and more smiths willing to work on them so I can send it off and have a 22" 6mm Creed and a 20" 6.5mm Creed done for it. I'd even go 20" on the 6mm except Proof doesn't off that length so 22" it is.
The 16" 308 that I ordered will probably stay that way unless it doesn't shoot.
Long story short, unless you get a deal on a Proof gun or don't ever plan on running a can then I wouldn't do it. You're paying more $$ for a rifle with a long barrel that destroys the utility of the gun. If you want a rifle to shoot a bit I'd go with 6.5 over 308. The 308 rifles bite pretty good and the light barrel isn't the best choice for plinking.
Will be running suppressed with my Surefire 300SPS. Since I haven’t done a lot of long range shooting (not a lot of ranges around that go beyond 200yd) I think the 16” 6.5 will be plenty. By the time I find a range that I can stretch out on they should have some longer barrels readily available.
They have mentioned on their podcast that they test fire every gun. 5 round group at 100 and if it isn’t basically a half MOA it doesn’t ship.
He also mentioned the 308 isn’t easy to shoot. It’s light and takes some work.
@redneckbmxer24 you mentioned you measured with calipers after apa told you it wouldn’t fit. What size clearance did you find inside the hand guard. My calipers aren’t that fancy kind so I can’t measure it. I know my 1.20 inch Proof fits but it’s awful close. It had to be turned down just a bit for clearance of the Jam Nut. But where it’s close is right where the carbon meets the metal on the breech end. Where the First Q sert mounts are on the hand guard.
When I got it to where it is now. In pics.
He also mentioned the 308 isn’t easy to shoot. It’s light and takes some work.
@redneckbmxer24 you mentioned you measured with calipers after apa told you it wouldn’t fit. What size clearance did you find inside the hand guard. My calipers aren’t that fancy kind so I can’t measure it. I know my 1.20 inch Proof fits but it’s awful close. It had to be turned down just a bit for clearance of the Jam Nut. But where it’s close is right where the carbon meets the metal on the breech end. Where the First Q sert mounts are on the hand guard.
When I got it to where it is now. In pics.
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Inside the barrel nut (two samples) is 1.220” which gives .020” clearance for the nut to go on and the inside of the handguard is quite a bit larger. I don’t recall off the top of my head but the tightest spot still had over .100” total which gives .050”+ around the barrel. That’s plenty.
The only thing I could find that may touch is the very rear rail screw and it would be close but a screw is easy enough to shorten. I saw a report where Q sent out a set of shorter screws to a custom that got one of the BT barrels that were contoured wrong and the screw was contacting the barrel and effecting accuracy. Guarantee you that was a 1.20” contour barrel that they just hadn’t turned down to Q’s spec.
The funny part is that both factory Proof barrels I’ve measured (one 26” 6mm Creedmoor and one 24” 6.5mm Creedmoor) were 1.190” right behind where the SS meets carbon. That measurement is .002-.003” OVER Q’s print which I was told is either 1.60” or 1.70” but I don’t recall.
Cool thanks man. That’s interesting that your proofs are 1.190 I always assumed that Q only offered that length because that’s the only length that Proof offers a 1.13 breech. So it’s interesting to me that yours are the standard proofs at 1.20 or turned down to 1.19 as Mr Tooley mentioned to me.
I won’t be able to accuracy test mine till Wednesday. But we will find out then. I can shorten a rail screw if needed. I already shortened my sling mount and bipod stud screws so they wouldn’t interfere. Probably didn’t need to but wanted to play it safe
I won’t be able to accuracy test mine till Wednesday. But we will find out then. I can shorten a rail screw if needed. I already shortened my sling mount and bipod stud screws so they wouldn’t interfere. Probably didn’t need to but wanted to play it safe
You make a good point and I agree with you.
But what people are forgetting is how unreliable mines been. So in order to try and start fresh, my new scope arrived yesterday. I disassembled the entire thing, cleaned, greased it and put it back togeather and put 80 rounds through it today.
3 light primer strikes and 2 feeding issues with damage to the cases, so its at least 50% better than it was and Australian Outback 165gr SBT showed some good accuracy.
I have the week off it’s my birthday so I’m going to keep shooting it everyday, all week and if it continues to maintain that level of reliability then I’ll get a 6.5CM barrel for it and the wider buttpad when it comes out and stick with it.
I designed a QSERT barricade stop for it the other day too and wasn’t too expensive to get made so I’m excited to try that out.
How easy is it to get mags down under? Can you get a KAC mag or another Pmag? I’ve seen several people talk about flaring the feed lips on the Pmag to help feeding issues. Are you hand loading or factory ammo only? The light primer strikes with non mil primers would be an issue for me. They do Mention it isn’t tuned for military hard semi auto primers intended to prevent slam fires. But if you’re getting light strikes on normal primers I’d email them. Maybe they can send you another FP spring to try. You don’t know unless you ask.
I can get 10 rounders from any shop that’s no dramas. KAC mag I would have to import myself but since I want a 6.5CM barrel I’ll have to import that myself anyways so I could get both at the same time.
Factory ammo only and good stuff too, no cheap stuff.
The light primer strikes would really get to me and I think that is something that someone from Q needs to work with you on to correct that issue. I wouldn't put up with light primer strikes (outside of the surplus ball type ammo that they clearly recommend against).
But have you noticed that you drop your mag to the ground when you are cycling the rifle? I am starting to think that this was what was causing my feed issues. I am at a conference right now and I am going to play around with it more when i get home this afternoon, but i loaded up about 40 rounds of ammo i didn't care about (in both 10 and 20 round pmags) and cycled through them as quickly as possible while making sure that the magazine wasn't in contact with anything... cycled beautifully. Like I said, I am going to see if I can replicate the feed issues by dropping the rifle down on the magazine and then cycling, but I am starting to think that as long as shit isn't pressed up against the mag, it will cycle ok. Your experience may be different and I am basing this on very limited, very unscientific testing. Can't say I am thrilled about the fit of the mag in the magwell, but not having to spend $500 on 5 mags is motivation enough to look into it a little more.
If you shop around a little bit you can find KAC’s for less. I bought two 10 rounders from rwsnyder for $150, and I’ve seen them listed on here and other places new or like new for $50-$75. I’ve also bought new 20 rounders off here in package deals for less than $50/mag.
Even at the normal $90/pop they’re worth it, but getting a good deal is always worth looking for.
Even at the normal $90/pop they’re worth it, but getting a good deal is always worth looking for.
@midSCarolina can you please elaborate on “dropping your mag to the ground”?? I don’t have any 20 rounders. But I’m having a hard time understanding what you’re saying.
I got my KAC 10s but I’m out of town right now. So they will have to wait. I have 4 of them new in wrapper.
So if anyone wants to buy one hit me up. I certainly don’t need 4. If you’re having feeding issues maybe I can help.
@redneckbmxer24 did you have any feed issues with the pmag and the KAC works perfect?
I got my KAC 10s but I’m out of town right now. So they will have to wait. I have 4 of them new in wrapper.
So if anyone wants to buy one hit me up. I certainly don’t need 4. If you’re having feeding issues maybe I can help.
@redneckbmxer24 did you have any feed issues with the pmag and the KAC works perfect?
Correct. With the 2x 10rd pmags it came with the rifle wouldn’t feed about 50% of the time when the top round was on the right side of the mag, so 25% failure rate. I tried some gen 3 20 rounders and they didn’t feed ultra smooth but they didn’t fail at least but I could see them hanging one up eventually.
I tried one of my 20rd KAC’s and it fed like butter and the 2x 10rd KAC’s I ordered feed smooth and reliable too. Q should charge a little more and ship the rifle with one KAC mag instead of 2 pmags.
Agreed. The rifle should have come with one KAC instead of two PMAGs. But that’s fine. My PMAG fed ok with one round and a little hang up here and there with the other. What’s funny is it fed my snap caps perfectly. So I think with the PMAGs it depends on the bullet length etc
When shooting off the bipod, if you aren't supporting the rifle, it will rest on the magazine kinda making a tripod with the bipod + magazine. So if you are shooting from the bench, for example, it is easy to take your shot, drop your rifle into that resting position, and then cycle the bolt... especially if you are waiting a few minutes between shots.
I haven't used my 10 round pmags that came with it all that much. I'll end up buying a KAC mag or two but i much rather "stock up" on pmags than KAC mags since 20 mags sounds a lot better than 5. But if you gotta pay more for reliability, you gotta pay more. It is what it is but I want to pmags to work.
The PMAGs have issues in lots of guns. Not just the fix. I think you can tune them with sand paper or a file and it will help. That’s what I’ve read. I’d just rather have one that works. Reliability is the name of the game for me. I want it to go bang every time. That’s why I think @thestacche should contact Q about his light strikes. Maybe they can send him a new firing pin or spring.
Has anyone else had light primer strikes with regular primers? (Not mil hard primers)
I’ve had 308 pmags not work in several other rifles. IMO they’re very hot or miss and more miss. Only had a few instances with small frame stuff but it’s happened in rifles that quality metal mags few fine.
I haven’t had any light strikes but I did have about 10 hang fires that I don’t attribute it to the gun. It happened on a couple very cold days (at or below freezing) and with SRP 6mm Creedmoor brass which others have had problems with causing hang fires in other rifles in cold weather. It was also with CCI 450’s which fall into the category of hard cup military primers which Q warns against.
The same loads were 100% in warmer weather and the 120-140 rounds of factory ammo I’ve fired and 50+ rounds of loads using 210M’s have been completely reliable too.
I sold a GA Precision Crusader without ever firing it and bought this. So does that make this my first big boy rifle or do all my previous rifles count?
Ehhh, you’re at like 1.5 since you didn’t shoot it. But you made a good decision.
No.
A fan boy maybe...but we are glad to have you. And you need to actually shoot this one! And bang it into stuff.
Didn't really make a difference. Fed about 200 through it and had 4 hang up while using the 20 round pmag. No real rhyme or reason
Why are you using 20rnd pmags instead of the 10’s that came with it? Serious question.
I’d like one or two of those KAC mags to use with my FIX if you can spare them. Let me know. Thanks.
I have a Scalarworks and NF 7-35x56 coming for my Fix!
Bc it looks cool... whats more important than that
?? I've also had 2 bind up on me while using the 10 round pmags so if neither is 100% reliable, I'll opt for what looks coolest and what pisses liberals off the most. I'm going to put a little velcro strip on the trigger guard and see if that helps with anything, but I may have to just accept that I need to go a different route.Unrelated question for you tho... the sponginess of the bolt handle makes me feel like I am going to rip the thing off one day... is that by design? And is it something that I need to be gentle with? Its just very different than the rigidity of other bolt actions.
ETA: I have been cycling the hell out of it while watching TV and I don't know if it is kinda breaking in or what, but I can't get it to bind up any more... also it only seemed to do it with Hornady ELD-M.
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It’s so sick! You’re going to be stoked! - I need a new piece of glass. Saving my nickels and dimes.
I had some issues with chambering when i first got the gun. I bumped my chamber back an extra thou on reloads and seems to be better. I also switched from ACS mags back to pmag.
I am curious at about the KAC mags and the Larue ones
I am curious at about the KAC mags and the Larue ones
Dude that is a ton of scope for the Fix. The goal is lightness.... if you’re doing 6.5 or even 308 that’s quite a bit of scope.
The EOTech 5-25 is 10oz lighter. The MK5 3-18 is just under a pound lighter. I’m a big NF fan. I think the 4-16x42 Atacr is the best scope for this rifle. It’s a balance between weight and awesomeness.
4-16x42 30oz
7-35 is 40oz
EOTech 5-25 is 29oz I believe it’s the best weight per magnification scope right now
MK5 3-18 is 25oz
I’m running an Athlon 2.5-15 and it’s at 26oz. I wouldn’t want anything heavier than 30oz.
I hear that for sure. I’m going to try PRS’in it this spring ????? We’ll see how it goes haha.
If the goal is the do comp then weight makes sense. I’d run a 22inch heavy barrel and the 7-35. Maybe I’d make a 6mm heavy 24 inch barrel and a huge scope. That way you could set it up for comp. that would be cool.
I think the switch barrel feature is awesome. We just need to get a few more barrels out there.
I think the switch barrel feature is awesome. We just need to get a few more barrels out there.
Agreed!! I’m pretty excited I got one of the 6.5 22” heavy Bart barrels
Are you referring to the pre-extraction of the bolt/handle when you pull it rearward to eject a case?Bc it looks cool... whats more important than that
Unrelated question for you tho... the sponginess of the bolt handle makes me feel like I am going to rip the thing off one day... is that by design? And is it something that I need to be gentle with? Its just very different than the rigidity of other bolt actions.
Can’t really shoot from the prone here, too much crap around so I haven’t had that issue but I hear what you guys are saying about the mags. Guess I won’t know if it’s the mags or the rifle then until I get a KAC mag.
...and yes KB is aware of the issues I’m having and simply does not seem to care. If they don’t offer to help by the end of the week I’ll force the distributor to get me a whole new bolt assembly.
I picked one up the other day and it’s a perfect match for the rifle, just a shame it doesn’t have a touch more elevation adjustment to get me to 900m with rings for PSR comps. PRS comps it’ll be fine, they only really go out to 500m here.
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EVERYONE: THIS THREAD NEEDS MORE PICS
@thestacche which one did you get? Edit now I see the pic. Duuuuuudddeeeee I NEED that optic. Man. It’s the perfect optic for this gun in my opinion.
@thestacche which one did you get? Edit now I see the pic. Duuuuuudddeeeee I NEED that optic. Man. It’s the perfect optic for this gun in my opinion.
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Yes... at the end of your pull as you are extracting the round/case... that flex you get in the bolt handle
@Movistar
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