A thicker recoil pad won't actually affect the felt recoil much at all. It might make it fit your shoulder pocket better perhaps and in return make the recoil more tolerable but if a firearm recoils too heavy for you its most likely always going to be too much recoil for you. I would say get a better muzzle brake on it first.
- Thread starter Tyler455
- Start date
Anyone know when more Atlas bipods with Q-Sert mounts will be back in stock?
Cherry Bomb is a pretty efficient muzzle brake. Generally, a wider recoil pad spreads the impact energy over a wide area, so given reasonable shooting form it should make for a lower recoil feel.
ILya
After shooting it yesterday i think just more surface area would be helpful. The recoil was not too bad but i will be purchasing a wider recoil pad if they become available.
So i got to get out and run it yesterday. After about 60 rounds of break in and getting it zeroed it was shooting 5 shot groups about 5/8-3/4 moa with factory prime 130 that was left in a hot pickup for most of last summer. Bolt lift was a little hard on a few rounds but I blame that on poor storage of the aforementioned ammo. Action ran well. It’s fast but it need a fatter grip to place my hand farther back for better trigger control. My boss (who’s gun is 2 serial numbers higher than mine)had 2 light primer strikes that required him to cock it and hit it twice. Other than that they ran awesome! Got an average of 2809 for mv with my 20 inch barrel. You need to run it like you stole it for them to feed smoothly but once I figured that out and ran it hard it ran perfectly. Aside from the mag selection I am very impressed with this little rifle. I can’t wait to put the trash panda on it and see if that helps it out.
I know the pictures are not very good but i couldnt seem to get away from all the shadows before a dust storm showed up.
I know the pictures are not very good but i couldnt seem to get away from all the shadows before a dust storm showed up.
I also had some heavy lift the first time out. Second time was better. I noticed I had to run the bolt fast as well otherwise it would bind up. After figuring that out it ran like a champ. Had mediocre groups, but I was sighting it in on a windy day that was moving the target, and the next time out (I got it closer, but it had rained and the sun came out and we had a lot of mirage. Now I got new scope rings, so back to sight in. Hopefully a non windy non miragie day.
Picked up my 6.5 yesterday. Dry fireI have hard bolt lift.. No hard lift until I pull the trigger and pull the bolt handle up. Anyone else have this? I can cycle the bolt with ease.. pull the trigger and have 5x the force to open the bolt.. Havent even put a round through it yet.. Worse in live fire? Get better over time? Thanks in advance..
I had the same. I took it to the range and it was hit and miss. Especially in the first 40 rounds being aggressive with the bolt cycle was needed, and I would have harder bolt lifts than others. All using 130 grain prime. The next time to the range It was better. I am up to approx 120 rounds. I contacted Q and they said if it’s gettin better let it ride. So my assumption is there is a break in process. Unfortunately I do not have a data book with this rifle, but I will be changing that soon.
Got it. Thanks for that. Good that Q will address it if needed. Not too worried, but wanted to ask. Thanks for the reply.
After you dry fire it you're fully cocking the firing pin where as youre just lifting it off the sear if you don't so of course it's going to be heavier than if you don't pull the trigger. Every bolt gun is like that.
Mine was fairly stiff at first but it's smoothing out with use. I have had some random rounds a little heavier to lift and eject than others but that seems to be getting better as well.
Mine was fairly stiff at first but it's smoothing out with use. I have had some random rounds a little heavier to lift and eject than others but that seems to be getting better as well.
I put a bit of grease on those roller bearings on the back end of the striker and that seemed to help the bolt lift out quite a bit. I think this is going to be like my desert tech and i will just run it like i stole it.
Hoping that alternate bolt handle options are available soon. I'd prefer about a 3/4" diameter ball on the end rather than the taper. I think it would glide between your fingers better with less chance of slipping out when you're trying to run the bolt fast.
Understood. Just never felt one so different. Then again I have never handled one of these til yesterday. Good to know it smooths out.
I bought a HK MR762 grip for mine, and love it. The ergo grip is almost too bulky.
First thing I did after getting the rifle was lube the bolt slightly and dry fire it about 500 times (w/ snap caps). While there's no real way to objectively measure the bolt lift (w/o a dedicated rig), after the first hundred and two hundred dry fires the lift lightened up quite a bit each time.
I'd say the bolt lift became consistent after 300 or so dry fires. People also have to keep in mind this is a 6-7lb rifle that you're applying x lbs of torque when lifting the bolt, while most rifles are easily 3lbs+ heavier. This exaggerates the bolt lift as a heavier rifle would appear to have a easier time handling the same amount of force.
Like newguy said, really looking forward to bolt options. While the handle is nice and compact, its too compact for my preference.
I'd say the bolt lift became consistent after 300 or so dry fires. People also have to keep in mind this is a 6-7lb rifle that you're applying x lbs of torque when lifting the bolt, while most rifles are easily 3lbs+ heavier. This exaggerates the bolt lift as a heavier rifle would appear to have a easier time handling the same amount of force.
Like newguy said, really looking forward to bolt options. While the handle is nice and compact, its too compact for my preference.
New bolt handle options are going to be limited because they will need to fit in the folding stock.
To the dismay of everyone that loves the giant 8 ball shift... I mean bolt knobs.
Something still smallish is what I want. Just a ball shape that doesn't slip out of my fingers so easy.
I may still tweak it some more but I think for now I'm going to settle at
42.5 H4350
Br2
Hdy brass
143 Eld-x at 2.2" ogive .040" off the lands, ~2.85oal for feeding reliability
It's looking to be <3/4moa. Maybe not quite as tight as the 140amax load for my SRS that this gun happens to love too.
On another note The Fix has the tightest chamber between my DT Srs 6.5cm and Noveske 6.5cm. Fired brass from the fix chambers easily in both of those.
I'll take your comment about the chamber as a compliment.
Thank you
Thank you
Nice! What height scope rings did you use with that Nightforce?
Finally put it together today. Can't wait to get rounds down range.
I used the RRS Vyce on easter but i would very much like a Q-sert to arca swiss so i dont have to pack around the vyce. The RRS tripod is amazing though!
I don't have any problems heavy bolt on mine but the design lends itself to a heavier lift than say a 90 or 70 degree bolt throw. I just slide my hand straight up the side and back then my pointer to slide forward and down. Unfortunately it will probably be another month before I can shoot it again because the reticle in my scope is crooked and have to send it back. have any of you noticed that the cheek rest is adjustable forward and back?
Question for you Fix owners; Do you have rearward movement/flex with the bolt knob after extracting a fired round? I noticed it this past Saturday when shooting and sometimes it does it and sometimes it won’t. It’s like the knob flexes to the rear and I have to exert extra force to pull the bolt to the rear for extraction.
Yep, I noticed this when I was holding the bolt trying to figure out how to take it apart.
Mine does it to. It's just a quirk? Of the design. I don't want to call it a flaw or defect because I don't believe it is. If you take the bolt apart you'll see that the ears on the bolt handle rest against the back of the firing pin spring.
Have read through this thread and checked Q's site - unless I missed it somewhere the Pic-rail appears to have zero cant - correct ? Thanks in advance...
Just picked her up! Scope goes on tomorrow, hopefully to the range to sight in this weekend, can't wait to see how she shoots! The build quality on this is spot-on, props to the boys at Q for some fine workmanship!
Scope is mounted up, heading to zero it tomorrow. The Swaro scope with 50mm objective and BC caps took High rings (Burris Xtreme).
The trigger is seriously impressive, after I lubed it up and dry fired a bit, I got 1 lb. 12.5 oz. average trigger pull, and it was less and 0.6 oz difference between pulls averaging 10 of them together.
The trigger is seriously impressive, after I lubed it up and dry fired a bit, I got 1 lb. 12.5 oz. average trigger pull, and it was less and 0.6 oz difference between pulls averaging 10 of them together.
I use typical large bolt knobs on all my guns, except the Fix. Seems to work just fine as is for me, though I wear a small glove. Put the 308 barrel back on today just because it is so sweetly balanced with my can. Shot multiple 5 shot groups that were 5/8" or smaller. My last group was .0000000, except for my last shot that I threw out to...5/8" again. Frustrating, but the gun can shoot no question.
Of course it wasn't actually .000000, but it was a really sweet 4 shot group that was in the .0 something range.
Also did a little standing tripod work at 100 and 208 with it today. Held 1.5 moa at both distances. Very easy to shoot gun.
Of course it wasn't actually .000000, but it was a really sweet 4 shot group that was in the .0 something range.
Also did a little standing tripod work at 100 and 208 with it today. Held 1.5 moa at both distances. Very easy to shoot gun.
Do you know what the weight of the Proof will be? I weighed my 308 Fix barrel and it is a hair under 2# 2oz.
They list the weight of the Proof 308 barrels as 3 lb 3 oz for 24" and 3 lb 7 oz for 26". The OEM Bartlein 16" 308 barrel is listed as 2 lb 3.7 oz, so pretty close to what you measured it at. So basically you get 8" additional barrel length for about a pound. My 6.5 CM 22" barrel is 3 lb 2 oz, so I can put the Proof 24" 308 barrel on and have pretty much identical weight when I switch back and forth.
I forgot the website has those weights, duh. My 308 is minus the cherry bomb, so that may be the discrepancy there. I remember someone saying that is was about impossible for a Proof barrel to be lighter than the Bartlein 16", but of course they were talking about a similar shorty, not a 24". That's an interesting idea to make the two balance out... My 6.5 is a 20", and though heavier than the 308, also balances very well, especially without the can.
Do you have any 130 Federal ammo, by any chance? I'm curious what the difference in velocity will be between my 20" and the 22".
No, I'm shooting 140gr Hornady. Here's an interesting reference to barrel length vs. velocity with 6.5CM. I used this to estimate my muzzle velocity at 22" vs. the Hornady velocity listed which is based upon 24".
6.5 Creedmoor- Effect of Barrel Length on Velocity: Cutting up a Creedmoor!
Thanks again. It's absolutely the smoothest and most consistent trigger out there.
Starting to get the gun figured out. I'm right at 1/2 MOA with it now after a range session dialing it in at 100 yards, with the Hornady 140gr ammo. I took it out to 200 and 300 and it's a real joy to shoot. The 600 yard bay is down for maintenance at my range, but should be open soon, can't wait to see how it does then! What is everyone else seeing for accuracy on these?
Similar threads
Suppressors
Q Customer Service
