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Gunsmithing The ULTIMATE Easyout

Turd in the Pool

Previously RJBGuns00 ;-)
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 1, 2006
819
2
65
Austin Texas
Here's a tip for you bitches. <----- Mainly for Woodsy and a little shot for Chad.

Everyone's been there. Broken screw extractors don't work well because the theory is flawed. They're usually too big for 6 and smaller screws. They suck in and expand what's left of the screw after you drill the hole making it grip the walls of the threaded hole.

Take a piece of annealed spring stock or drill rod, 5 or 6" is good. Too long causes a control problem. 3 of these are .120", .1" will work. Grind 4 opposing flats, harden the tip but don't anneal. The flex in the length keeps it from breaking unless you get stupid. Grind 2 flats close to 90 deg. (like the one on the left) on the tap handle end.



While pushing down, twist and put a load on the shaft. A quick snap of the wrist usually makes them turn. Obviously you need to heat if Loctite is involved. Make 'em now so you will have them when you need it. Hope I helped someone!
 
Cool!

I've seen a cantankerous old die maker use a 10d nail that he torched with a gas axe and quenched in a puddle, it worked for the 1 time it HAD to. This is a much more refined version of the idea, thanks for reminding me and posting it up.
 
You're welcome bohem. Though it's not critical, to ensure the flats are equal and uniform, drill a snug fitting hole thru a piece of square stock to hold it as you rest it on your grinder shelf.

Makes it much easier.
 
I can beat this.

Drill your hole as you would but use a torx insert instead. Cold forge it into the hole with a few whacks from a ball peen.

I can back out a busted screw in less than 2 minutes this way. Just make sure your using good inserts and not the Harbor Freight kind.

Last,

I rarely use taps anymore for anything other than chasing a hole. I thread mill just about everything. No broken tools this way.
 
I can beat this.

Drill your hole as you would but use a torx insert instead. Cold forge it into the hole with a few whacks from a ball peen.

I can back out a busted screw in less than 2 minutes this way. Just make sure your using good inserts and not the Harbor Freight kind.

Last,

I rarely use taps anymore for anything other than chasing a hole. I thread mill just about everything. No broken tools this way.

New LRI motto; When all else fails, beat your chest!

I've employed your method many times. It does work. Let me see you do it on a broken 3-56 shotgun bead. Or better yet, a broken 0-80 screw in your reading glasses.

While you are working on that, I'll run out and get me one of them threading mills for my Dewalt cordless. Should I cut the threads in one pass?
 
You guys kill me. I hope you have as much fun gigging each other as the rest of us do reading it!! I just wonder how you guys get any work done !? Thanks again, and all of the tips you guys have really does help the rest of us amateur smiths!
 
I think RJB wants to have a Cock Off with Chad.

Cock Off:


Coigned by Bubba the Love Sponge: When two males that cannot settle an argument or dispute in any other civilized fashion resort to measuring their genitals to determine a winner. The standard form is to lay your junk on a table about yea high while your opponent does the same from the opposite side. The match is immediately forfeit if you attempt to touch your opponent while he is in this position.

Bubba and Ronny had an dispute that they couldn't settle. Bubba challenged Ronny to a cock off. When they measured their cocks, it was determined tht Bubba's cock was longer....He was then named the winner of the cock off and the argument. ...and there was much rejoicing
 
You guys kill me. I hope you have as much fun gigging each other as the rest of us do reading it!!

I do;-) Playing F U is one my favorite forms of entertainment. Chad is the one that started this shit. I tried to get him to ease off by complimenting his work and referring customers to him. Didn't work. Seems he has a raging boner for me. I wish he'd just yank it to get it to reside. Must be painful and embarrassing to walk around with.

I'm glad I could pass a tip along. Hope it helps someone avoid paying and waiting for a smith.

Edm's and thread mills are for everyone. Just run up to the 7-11 and grab a couple.
 
RJB is looking to get another 2 week vacation from the site, he will never learn!

I'm going to get a vac soon, maybe sooner from the site;-) Headed to Idaho as soon as I get my plate clean. A ban would be a blessing! Talk everyone into bombarding the mods with pm's and it will happen;-)
 
RJB, Where ya going in my state of Idaho, want to know if I should stay, run or hide. Idaho is a great place to live, hope you have fun here.
 
RJB, Where ya going in my state of Idaho, want to know if I should stay, run or hide. Idaho is a great place to live, hope you have fun here.

By all means, stay! No need to run or hide. I'm a lot more likeable in person than the image you get here. I have a bud that has property north of Gibbonsville. After I visit him, I'm going to find a friend that is up there hunting bear. Somewhere around Lolo and Missoula. Haven't mapped it out yet but I think SE will be a bit out of the way.

I'm sure I'll have fun. If you're up for it I'd like to visit if you're on my path.
 
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I love that these arguments happen, I keep learning new ways of doing things. And each time either one of you post something the other wants to one up you and I learn something new. Today I learned a few ways to extract broken screws/bolts. Keep this shit going, I am always looking to learn new things. You both are smart guys and have much more knowledge than I do on this subject...

Who knows, maybe next week I'll learn how to insert foot into mouth before making some smart ass comment...
 
Fwiw;

"I can beat this" was meant more as humor than a jab. . .

As for your challenge. An external 0 thread measures between .052/.055 according to my machinery handbook thread chart. In theory a #5 torx would work. In reality it wont because it would wipe out the ID thread of the hole.

In a case like this my solution would be one of two options:

Use a CD and spot the screw, then drill to the largest hole I could use. Prolly an .04, then chase with a tap.
Another option is to put a spot of TIG weld on the broken screw with a dab of air hardening filler rod using an .04 tungsten electrode set to about 15 amps. Build it up out of the hole till you can put a pair of pliers on it and then back it out. Just know itll likely cook the blued finish. The drill option would likely be my first choice.

Reasons are these tiny threads are often made with soft/free machinig materials. Beating a torx bit/expediant tool onto a hole can very easily munch the threads an make it near impossible to back out the part. Ive found that a non impact method gives me better results.

Just another way to peel the kitty skin.

C.zn
 
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Or use the wire EDM and burn the bitch out. Tada, done, no fkn around.
 
Or use the wire EDM and burn the bitch out. Tada, done, no fkn around.

Still gotta drill a hole to use a wire. Then you'd also be explaining to the cst why there's a hole all the way through the barrel/receiver. Wire doesn't magically turn a 90 corner around stuff to miss it. Then you have at best a 1/16th/min feed rate and a whole lot of setup time and brass these days is EXPENSIVE.

Just sayin. . .
 
Where have you been? I've used things like that for years. You actually can make 'em a bit better by grinding a "flute" up and along each corner. This makes the bit bite better.

However, it is still a modified easy-out. My "go to" methods are to use a sharp center punch to turn the screw or drill and peel out the remnants. Of course, the easiest is to not break the screw in the first place.

Nice attempt at the "shot". Good to see you haven't changed a'tall.
 
Still gotta drill a hole to use a wire. Then you'd also be explaining to the cst why there's a hole all the way through the barrel/receiver. Wire doesn't magically turn a 90 corner around stuff to miss it. Then you have at best a 1/16th/min feed rate and a whole lot of setup time and brass these days is EXPENSIVE.

Just sayin. . .

A sinker edm would be more practical than a wire machine. No hole required. They burn threads too.

A cnc edm would be a nice addition to you collection. :D
 
Where have you been? I've used things like that for years. You actually can make 'em a bit better by grinding a "flute" up and along each corner. This makes the bit bite better.

However, it is still a modified easy-out. My "go to" methods are to use a sharp center punch to turn the screw or drill and peel out the remnants. Of course, the easiest is to not break the screw in the first place.

Nice attempt at the "shot". Good to see you haven't changed a'tall.

Look woody woodpecker, picking on me is only going to get your ass handed to you. Why don't you post some pics of your improved fluted version? Anyone could do that with a cutoff wheel. I don't see the need because this model works.

Do you have a 5th grade child? Maybe they can explain to you that the need for the easyout is because screws do break. The only reason one would need an ease out is because the punch won't turn it. Remind me not to let you drill and peel. Sounds like a mess.

Bet your bottom dollar I won't change. I've worked too hard to get here and it's too late to turn back;-)

As far as the rest of you edm users and sonic sambo. I posted this for the little guy. Not for you guys with more money than sense;-)
 
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Look woody woodpecker, picking on me is only going to get your ass handed to you. Why don't you post some pics of your improved fluted version? Anyone could do that with a cutoff wheel. I don't see the need because this model works.

Do you have a 5th grade child? Maybe they can explain to you that the need for the easyout is because screws do break. The only reason one would need an ease out is because the punch won't turn it. Remind me not to let you drill and peel. Sounds like a mess.

Bet your bottom dollar I won't change. I've worked too hard to get here and it's too late to turn back;-)

As far as the rest of you edm users and sonic sambo. I posted this for the little guy. Not for you guys with more money than sense;-)

Rim Job, you are a funny little hobbit. I'll give you that.
 
I can't think of a time when a screw gave me much trouble. Taps were always a pain in the ass when they would break. I don't supose one of these would help much with that though.

Do you have a nifty tool to extract a broken tap?
 
I can't think of a time when a screw gave me much trouble. Taps were always a pain in the ass when they would break. I don't supose one of these would help much with that though.

Do you have a nifty tool to extract a broken tap?

I wouldn't exactly call it nifty but a fine tipped torch will anneal it enough to make it workable. I'm still trying to figure out how to light it but I read it somewhere on the internet;-)

I'm so glad I have you edm pros to bail me out when I need you. Thanks for being there.

BTW, Spend a few yrs on the bench gunsmithing and you will get your share of PITA broken screws.
 
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BTW, Spend a few yrs on the bench gunsmithing and you will get your share of PITA broken screws.

I hope this wasn't directed towards me. I can assure you, I have spent plenty of time fixing other peoples fu@#ups.

BTW, I don't own an edm but, I know someone who does and have seen what it is capable of doing. You are only limited by your imagination.
 
I hope this wasn't directed towards me. I can assure you, I have spent plenty of time fixing other peoples fu@#ups.

BTW, I don't own an edm but, I know someone who does and have seen what it is capable of doing. You are only limited by your imagination.

You must be livin' right or lead a charmed life. I hope you are willing to admit that you've spent plenty of time fixing your own too. You can't do this kind of work without the enjoyment of that aspect;-)

EDM's are cool. You are lucky to know an owner. Hope you have free access. Wish I could say I never had a problem screw. Seems like every time I say sure, run it over, I'll spin it out for you in a few min. It turns out to be one that puts up a fight.;-)
 
I've spent over 20 years doing thread repairs, a lot on cars/engine stuff but also other rusty shitty stuff. Easy-outs are great business, every second cheap one someone uses breaks and you can charge heaps getting them out. I use torx bits most of the time, they are one of the best broken bolt extractors around. here's a post I did on another forum a while back about the same thing on an ancient Win 92 I've been playing with:

IMG_1077.jpg


I used a die grinder with a pointy carbide bur to start a centre hole in the middle of the screw so the drill doesn't catch on what's left of the screw slot. It takes a bit of practice but I've been removing broken screws bolts and screws for the past 20 years and this is my method that works 99% of the time. I drilled a 1/8" hole down the centre of the screw, then ran larger left hand drill down until it cut level with the surface. Sometimes the left hand drill will catch and screw the bolt/screw out. This time it didn't but it did clean up the edge so nothing would catch:

IMG_1078.jpg


The next step was to tap a suitably sized torx bit into the hole and form some splines on the inside of the hole. I find torx bits much better than easy outs or some of the other tools made for removing broken bolts. Personally I reckon easy outs ought to be made illegal, I think I've removed half as many of them as I have broken bolts themselves.

IMG_1079.jpg


Sometimes the tapping is enough to loosen the screw but this one did need a ratchet on the torx bit to screw it out.

IMG_1080.jpg


IMG_1081.jpg


I ended up doing a lot of this stuff onsite and a die grinder with a 1/8" or smaller carbide bur buzzes through easy outs or the centre of small screws, usually enough so you can pull the threads out like a spring. Otherwise a tap down the hole cleans them out.

My other favourite tool is a left hand drill, they usually save having to do any on this. Just drill a small pilot hole then run the left hand drill into it and the screw winds out when the drill catches.
 
I can't think of a time when a screw gave me much trouble. Taps were always a pain in the ass when they would break. I don't supose one of these would help much with that though.

Do you have a nifty tool to extract a broken tap?

I've had pretty good like removing broken tap stubs with an automatic center punch. You can use the small Starrett model to punch the center of the stuck tap and it will usually break it apart enough to get the pieces out with a pick. I've used this method for years around the shop. Just be sure to back up the piece with a bucking bar or chunk of steel on thin walled or shallow threads so you don't damage anything. Note: that I have not had the same luck with a standard punch and hammer.

Punches And Sets
 
I've had success with Walton tap extractors. They don't work all the time but when they do you save a lot of time, not sure how small they make them however.

I'd post a link but for some reason when I do that my posts don't post, just Google them.

Be warned though that I was a diesel technician so I used them mostly on larger bolts.
 
I made a reducer nozzle for my wifes Dyson vacuum cleaner and stick it over the broken screw. The cyclonic action unscrew them and removes all the shavings. For left hand threads, just turn the plug around.
 
I thought I was the only one to harness the cyclonic action of the Dyson for something other than sticking my wanker in it. It does good at removing right-hand threads. For left-handers, I just drive to the Southern Hemisphere. Shit turns in the opposite direction.