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Maggie’s The Wood Shop

Made a couple benches for my buddies range that I use all the time. This one is the Cadillac of them so far.

The lumber came from a 100 year old building we demo'd at work.
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I think it turned out great and it should last. About 6 heavy coats of linseed oil before assembly.
 
Guys, I need some advice: I have a shed door made of untreated wood that I am reworking. The wood is still good. What treatment/coating is available to help preserve it? I don’t want to paint it if it can be avoided. Obviously the door is exposed to the elements.
 
Someone with more knowledge than me should chime in shortly, but I would go with straight spar urethane. It will be much more weather resistant. It is clear, and will let the wood show, but protect it. If someone can give better advice please chime in as I could learn something here too.
 
Spar varnish but..clean the wood with TSP first and make sure it's dry before you put the varnish on. If not, the dirt will prevent the varnish from sticking and you'll have areas that peel off.
 
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@Slash0311 , even though I was giving you grief, I should have added that your work looks great, and that project will be pretty cool. I don’t have or do laser stuff, but I can see how handy it can be. I have knife projects in the near future and something like that could be useful.
 
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@Slash0311 , even though I was giving you grief, I should have added that your work looks great, and that project will be pretty cool. I don’t have or do laser stuff, but I can see how handy it can be. I have knife projects in the near future and something like that could be useful.

My CNC is a router. A laser is an add-on accessory.
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Thought some of the rest of you might appreciate this. He came up with his own mix of finish and wax. All made with stuff that would be consumable if you wanted to.

Finish 75%blo, 25% dewax blond shellac (2lb cut made with 99.9% ethanol or 95% everclear).
Wax 1 part carnauba, 1 part beeswax, 4 parts blo, 2 parts citrus oil/ citrus solvent. Measured by weight.
 
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It ain't much, but here's a few things that I've made out of teak scraps. The "spice rack", the spotlight mount, and the spotlight remote control caddy. The trim pieces and such I just refinished. Doing the acid/alkali process to prep teak really REALLY is something, that turns out a fantastic job. Never had to do that before, to any other wood over the decades.

A couple more coats, then a few coats of clear, then call it done. This season I'll get a few pics up of all the wood installed on the boat, and you can see how much things 'pop'. (sure makes a difference)

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I’ve made a few simple boards lately. I’ve spent a lot of time in the shop, but it’s been mostly setting up equipment and stuff. Doing a little bit, and hope to do more coming


Wow... those would be some really cool guitar bodies starting with some of those... they look amazing.

I used a rough cut blank mahogany with a maple top and just did the finessing, holes, radius work and finishing myself.. I cant imagine starting with something like you made... be so cool looking.



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@Green461 , love the grain on that guitar. Very classic. It’s kind of weird how this thread has slipped by me for a few weeks. Haven’t done any boards in a few weeks just due to how crazy busy life is. Hope to get back in the shop next week if the heat will let up. My shop isn’t air conditioned so I can only get in there in the mornings. Another project for another day.
 
@502Chevelle

Do you just oil the boards or seal them?

Im working on plans for a table to go with my grill, smoker, and flat top on the back patio and contemplating how to make it tough.
will get a cover for weather when not in use, but will be exposed to all kinda things out there.

Good lookin board, glad you are having some fun with a hobby in retirement!
 
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My boards are just finished in mineral oil with a little bees wax on them. They are food safe that way. I might would use some spar urethane for outdoor use, but I would probably avoid putting food straight on them. I would also let the board dry a week or two after the last glue up to make sure it's totally dry before the urethane. You need to let boards like this dry by standing up on their side, and rotate them once a day or so, so they dry evenly. Let them dry flat and they will warp from the top drying faster than the bottom.
 
Im not getting too fancy with the top for now.
Utilitarian, but looks nice, is the plan.

Have made loads of tables years ago, so the glue up and drying is something I know, and thanks for watching out for a goober!
Never made one food might rest on though.
Usually use pans or cutting boards and ya never know!

Also need a big cutting board for briskets, full prime ribs off the smoker, and ribs.
Have to work on that after hunting is over.
 
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