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Maggie’s The Woodchuck and Firewood Hoarders Thread

Froes. Used for riving green wood, but the little feller would make a great kindling splitter to keep by the fire place.

I will use the big one for riving large pieces to get materials for making grips, boxes, or just about anything else. My last froe was an old lawn mower blade with an eye welded on, lol.

I buy green wood rounds pretty cheap. Gives you nice, strong material to use. With my break, I can split logs of a pretty good length.
 
Part of my fairly modest collection, displayed in the stairway to my reloading room. I have a thing for Norlund. The framing slick is an Underhill Edge, in perfect condition. I also have a few crosscut saws that aren't pictured.

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Ha I was right.

A few shingles and a lot of kindling.
They have a lot of uses. The small one is used for making pegs to hammer through a dowel plate for stronger dowel’s. I’ll use the dowels for joinery. Drawbore mortise and tenon or just dowel joints. You get stronger dowels this way. I also use it for processing smaller logs and pieces for smaller items like boxes, etc. I can get consistent 6 inch wide planks using the smaller froe.

I’ve used big froes to process larger logs. Once started you can get a pretty straight split all the way down. I’ve got quite a bit of 12+ inch wide X 3 inch thick boards made using a large froe. You can really tailor the thickness of the boards, or shingles if that’s what you’re making. I’ll get some pictures of of some 6 foot long boards I made with the large froes. Very versatile tools.

Pretty much a necessity for chair backs and legs, lol.

Easy to get nice quarter sawn boards from much larger logs after you split them with wedges.
 
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I've been splitting the green wood with my maul.

Not even trying to be "surgical" the stuff is coming out like dimensioned wood....

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Give me the accuracy of a froe that shit could be uniform split to do parquet flooring.
 
I've been splitting the green wood with my maul.

Not even trying to be "surgical" the stuff is coming out like dimensioned wood....

View attachment 7765681

View attachment 7765683

Give me the accuracy of a froe that shit could be uniform split to do parquet flooring.
My first froe was a lawn mower blade, lol. It’ll give you more accurate splits, but will still need to be thicknessed.

Quarter the large logs, split it to thickness, leave to dry. In about a year plane them up and make your flooring.

Your splits look really good, no homo.
 
My first froe was a lawn mower blade, lol. It’ll give you more accurate splits, but will still need to be thicknessed.

Quarter the large logs, split it to thickness, leave to dry. In about a year plane them up and make your flooring.

Your splits look really good, no homo.

It's all for burning.

I cut them small in hopes they dry faster, burn hotter.

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In that vidio the offset side ax really looked handy.

My grandfather had some of those tools but I was too young to learn them before we moved.
 
Took a beech log up to my father in laws house for Christmas. We cut it up with his electric craftsman chainsaw into pieces for lathe turning. Not a fan of the electric saws. No pictures of the before log. It had a Y in it. Did a cut bisecting the Y and quarter sawed the chunk below the Y. This is half of one of the quarters.

A sibling piece.
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My first time ever using a wood lathe. In progress.
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Done sanded. No finish yet.
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Finally had enough of my Husky 359’s crap. It has an apparently common issue with the intake clamp (plastic click tab deal). It runs great til good and hot then you can’t keep it making power. It simply leaks air into the tract. It was definitely loose when I pulled it all down.

The fix is to modify the boot/intake to use a steel clamp from NAPA, a CV boot type clamp (found the part number on a chain saw forum).

Another issue is the metering diaphragm was too stiff from the factory and an updated carb kit is needed. It causes idling issues like this saw has had since I bought it new. Cheap fix and it’s time for a kit after 15 years anyway. Plus you’re supposed to drill a small hole in the diaphragm cover to bypass the “intelli Carb” type vent. The new metering diaphragm and drilled hole are supposed to make it idle like it’s supposed to.

Piston and cylinder look good, no scuffing. Ring is sharp and not worn, kudos to Stihl synthetic oil since new.

So new carb kit, new base gasket, modified intake and new clamp are all inbound. I hope this gets it back right as it is a heck of a saw even with the 24” bar on it.
 
I’m in need of a new chainsaw. Been running the same Husqvarna since 2005. It’s a smaller model with 18 inch bar.

I want a new chainsaw with more power and a 24 inch bar. Don’t think I need the pro stuff though.

Saw will be used to take down trees up to 36” in diameter, cutting logs to length for shit, and whatever else a chainsaw is used for.

1. More power
2. Lightest weight
3. Easiest start

Price is not a concern.

What would you recommend/ get?
 
I’m in need of a new chainsaw. Been running the same Husqvarna since 2005. It’s a smaller model with 18 inch bar.

I want a new chainsaw with more power and a 24 inch bar. Don’t think I need the pro stuff though.

Saw will be used to take down trees up to 36” in diameter, cutting logs to length for shit, and whatever else a chainsaw is used for.

1. More power
2. Lightest weight
3. Easiest start

Price is not a concern.

What would you recommend/ get?
While the pro Husky’s have been good to me, I believe in Stihl. I would look at a Stihl MS362, it’ll run the longer bar well and is light and powerful. It is a pro saw but it has what you’re asking for.
 
I’m in need of a new chainsaw. Been running the same Husqvarna since 2005. It’s a smaller model with 18 inch bar.

I want a new chainsaw with more power and a 24 inch bar. Don’t think I need the pro stuff though.

Saw will be used to take down trees up to 36” in diameter, cutting logs to length for shit, and whatever else a chainsaw is used for.

1. More power
2. Lightest weight
3. Easiest start

Price is not a concern.

What would you recommend/ get?
Which Husky? Are you wanting to stay Husky or branch out?

From what I've seen the pro models are lighter weight, have decompression, and are more powerful.
 
Husqvarna 440.

I’m fine branching out to other brands, but parts and serviceability are important.

My local shop has Stihl and Husqvarna. The Husqvarna 460 seems to check a lot of boxes, but I don’t want to find myself wishing I’d gone more powerful down the road.

I’ve wished for more power since I bought my first chainsaw all those years ago, but it would never break and give me a reason for a new saw, lol.
 
Husqvarna 440.

I’m fine branching out to other brands, but parts and serviceability are important.

My local shop has Stihl and Husqvarna. The Husqvarna 460 seems to check a lot of boxes, but I don’t want to find myself wishing I’d gone more powerful down the road.

I’ve wished for more power since I bought my first chainsaw all those years ago, but it would never break and give me a reason for a new saw, lol.
If money is no concern, the MS362 will make a 460 look like a toy.
 
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That one or the other 2. The plain 362 has the standard carb. The 362c-m has the mtronic carb that automatically adjusts. The 362 r c-m has the full wrap handle and the mtronic carb.



The local Stihl dealer only gets in the 261c-m version around here (that's the size that I want).

Good info and thanks. I’ll be at the Stihl dealers tomorrow. The 362 C-M looks like what I want. I don’t know if the full wrap handle is necessary, or a a worthwhile upgrade. Never used one.
 
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Good info and thanks. I’ll be at the Stihl dealers tomorrow. The 362 C-M looks like what I want. I don’t know if the full wrap handle is necessary, or a a worthwhile upgrade. Never used one.
From what I've seen they're useful for felling. Can use it either side up easier. You can use the handle as a sight for aiming (unsure if mil or moa).
Can see them used alot in this video (mostly on a ported 440 of some flavor).
 
I’m in need of a new chainsaw. Been running the same Husqvarna since 2005. It’s a smaller model with 18 inch bar.

I want a new chainsaw with more power and a 24 inch bar. Don’t think I need the pro stuff though.

Saw will be used to take down trees up to 36” in diameter, cutting logs to length for shit, and whatever else a chainsaw is used for.

1. More power
2. Lightest weight
3. Easiest start

Price is not a concern.

What would you recommend/ get?
Non pro grade saw, light and will run a 24” bar well doesn’t exist. I’d get a Stihl ms462 and deal with the little extra weight. It’s a pro saw but they’re good saws and will handle more than any body can throw at it.
 
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Good info and thanks. I’ll be at the Stihl dealers tomorrow. The 362 C-M looks like what I want. I don’t know if the full wrap handle is necessary, or a a worthwhile upgrade. Never used one.
A good stihl dealer will tell you skip over a 362. The 462 is less than a pound heavier and has 1.5 more Horsepower. It’s worth it to go up a level in that case
 
I’d get a Stihl ms462 and deal with the little extra weight. It’s a pro saw but they’re good saws and will handle more than any body can throw at it.
Untrue. They stop when you dog them hard in oak, elm or hickory even with a sharp 20”. But they’re good saws.
 
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Untrue. They stop when you dog them hard in oak, elm or hickory even with a sharp 20”. But they’re good saws.
I meant in the sense of longevity. My 120cc 880 bogs down hard if you dog it. They all have limits to them. Bottom line is it’s still a single cylinder motor you hold in your hand to cut trees. Can’t expect it to plow through everything on the planet and not bog down
 
I’ve never ran a 462 but I have run a 440 some and the weight savings of a 361/362 doesn’t sound like a lot but it feels more significant in the hand. I would visit the dealer and chat and feel them up some. I would echo that a light powerful saw is almost always going to mean a pro saw.

I would also say a 24” bar is not what you want on a “do it all” saw but having it on a hook in the shop is good for when you really need it bucking big logs.

I prefer a 20” and going to the other side usually.

My favorite saw is an old Echo CS3450 with an 18” bar. Not a screamer but SOooooo lightweight.

I’m an old guy tho 🤠
 
Good information to think about. I appreciate it. I think the 362 is what I will end up with. Checks a lot of boxes.
 
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Good information to think about. I appreciate it. I think the 362 is what I will end up with. Checks a lot of boxes.
60cc saws like the 362 are a good all around saw. Same class as my Husky 359 in my view. A MS440 (ie 462) is a powerhouse for sure but unless I’m missing what you’re going to be using it for it’s overkill. But some folks love having way more power than needed and I’m certainly not against it. A heavy saw is a bitch to me at this point unless I’m just standing in place sawing blocks.
 
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I definitely don’t need or want the higher power or weight above what a 362 offers.

Taking down trees will be minimal. Cutting logs to length for a sawmill will be most of what it sees.
 
Since you mentioned money is of no concern, then just get the Stihl 500, which is fuel injected. I personally haven't run one, but they feel light, even compared to a 362, and my friends who own them say they're awesome.
 
Since you mentioned money is of no concern, then just get the Stihl 500, which is fuel injected. I personally haven't run one, but they feel light, even compared to a 362, and my friends who own them say they're awesome.
Definitely an option. More power than I’m interested in though. 462 seems to be a good middle ground.

I’m going this week to look at the models.
 
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Chose the Stihl 462 C-M. Wanted the extra power for when I use a 25 inch bar, but will keep a 20 inch on it most of the time.

Will have the el cheapo Husqvarna gone through and refurbished and will probably run a 16 inch bar for the smaller stuff.

Thank you to all who helped out!
 
I’m in need of a new chainsaw. Been running the same Husqvarna since 2005. It’s a smaller model with 18 inch bar.

I want a new chainsaw with more power and a 24 inch bar. Don’t think I need the pro stuff though.

Saw will be used to take down trees up to 36” in diameter, cutting logs to length for shit, and whatever else a chainsaw is used for.

1. More power
2. Lightest weight
3. Easiest start

Price is not a concern.

What would you recommend/ get?

Your list makes sense like you thought about it.

When my than girlfriend, now wife, said she wanted to buy me a chainsaw my list was....

1. Most power.
2. I didn't have a clue, why would weight matter?
3. My motorcycle has decompression buttons and it starts easy.....therefore........

I ended up getting an MS440.

It's a beast and will wear out my ass if there is much cutting to do.

Plus side there is nothing I cut it won't pull a chain through.

image.jpg
 
Chose the Stihl 462 C-M. Wanted the extra power for when I use a 25 inch bar, but will keep a 20 inch on it most of the time.

Will have the el cheapo Husqvarna gone through and refurbished and will probably run a 16 inch bar for the smaller stuff.

Thank you to all who helped out!
Told ya, the 462 is a better saw power to weight than the 362. No questions about it. You’ll be happier overall and you won’t feel that extra 12 ounces.
 
Your list makes sense like you thought about it.

When my than girlfriend, now wife, said she wanted to buy me a chainsaw my list was....

1. Most power.
2. I didn't have a clue, why would weight matter?
3. My motorcycle has decompression buttons and it starts easy.....therefore........

I ended up getting an MS440.

It's a beast and will wear out my ass if there is much cutting to do.

Plus side there is nothing I cut it won't pull a chain through.

View attachment 7771323
I’ve been wishing for more power and a larger bar since I bought the Husqvarna. It’s been a good saw, but lacking in many ways for what I need a chainsaw for. I’ll get it refurbished and use it for limbing trees and smaller stuff.
 
While you all are slaying firewood, keep an eye out for figured pieces. I’m always interested in figured wood, and you may be able to turn some of what you would burn into extra cheddar.
 
Where you at BFC?

I’ve been eyeballin’ some cherry burls for a couple years and have access to a couple hundred acres of hardwoods I can pick and pluck my way through looking for twisted stems and the like.

I’m ~25 miles from Madison, WI.
 
Where you at BFC?

I’ve been eyeballin’ some cherry burls for a couple years and have access to a couple hundred acres of hardwoods I can pick and pluck my way through looking for twisted stems and the like.

I’m ~25 miles from Madison, WI.
I’m down in NC. For gun grip blanks, anything 4”x2 3/4x3/4 works for single action grips. Just about anything cut to fit in a large flat rate box will provide material for many sets of grips for guns and knives, or smaller items like pen stands, jewelry boxes, etc.
 
I had a lady contact me about 10 years back about getting a blown down maple removed. Said I could have it for firewood if I removed it. I went out there and started debarking it, and could tell off the bat it was going to be a highly figured with tons of curl.

I’ll travel within a 5 state area in the southeast to pick up good logs. I don’t take the trees down often, but have before.

A good place to get good logs for dirt cheap or free is after a large storm blows through an area and takes down a lot of residential trees. I have so much 100+ year old live oak, red oak and other species milled that I got for free in storm areas. Trees look great in the yard until a storm knocks it over, lol.

My favorite trees to come across are old pine trees. Beautiful stuff to work with and a whole different creature than the baby trees the hardware stores sell as lumber.