I have a very nice Devilbiss detail gun that I use. I've found that as long as you're diligent about cleaning every part of it (full disassembly and clean every component inside and out) after spraying, you won't have to worry about cerakote gunking it up. I built my own oven for cerakote, the ability to hang a long part straight down is worth the money, time, and effort into the oven (additionally, with a PID controller you get very accurate temperature holding which is also nice especially if running heat cure cerakote on non-metal parts). Air compressor wise, I assume large means large enough to run the HVLP (my idea of large may be different than others as my compressor is a 10hp 3ph 240 gallon unit).
As long as you have the air to run the guns, the most important thing is clean dry air. A refrigerated air dryer, ample filters, coalescing filter (I run before the dryer and after the dryer and at each air outlet along with individual desiccant dryers at each outlet point). Basically, the cleaner and dryer your air is the better.
Get disposable strainer filters from your local autobody supply. I also recommend getting a pile of mil/cc glue/lubricant syringes (makes it easy to measure out the correct amount of cerakote to hardener). Since I use the syringes for my measurement, I just use the standard small size disposable plastic mixing cups from my autobody supplier.
Beyond all of that, I recommend a bunch of different size stainless vessels to soak your parts in acetone in. I just bought a bunch of different sized stainless warming containers from a restaurant supply. I don't leave the acetone in them, instead I use the cheap plastic kerosene siphon pumps to fill them from the acetone cans and then put the acetone back in the sealed can through a funnel when I'm done.
For blasting small parts I just put them in a wire mesh basket strainer (available at any restaurant supply or Asian food market) and blast them in that.
Also, for hanging parts, some somewhat heavy and some pretty fine wire (picture wire from home depot works for the fine wire, rebar tying wire for the heavy wire).
Respirators I think should be their own subject in any shop. I use 3m 7503 respirators with 3m 60926 cartridge filters for spraying any kind of coatings from auto paint to cerakote. A full face may be what you want instead of the half face 7503 respirators, but since I weld a lot in my shop, I pretty much just buy the half face ones since they fit under my welding hood when using pancake filters instead of the cartridge filters. For anything really nasty (or anything where I'm unsure of just how bad it is) I tend to use a full face mask with CBRN filters, but heck, I've never felt like finding out that there was some nasty disease floating around in that mass of rat/mouse/squirrel nest I had to remove from under the house
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--Wintermute
