I called and spoke with a guy named Hunter. He set me up with a return label and everything. For me, email is useless when trying to get something like this done.
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Do you happen to have the phone number and Hunter's extension? I'll call him directly and tell him you sent me.
Well, I dropped my baby off at the gunsmith this morning. I should have it next week with a shiny new 16” bull barrel. I think I may bead blast everything when I get it back so it isn’t quite so shiny anymore.
Very cool! I'm excited to see it
Do you happen to have the phone number and Hunter's extension? I'll call him directly and tell him you sent me.
I don’t have an extension for him but I just called the Beretta USA service number and went through the prompts. If I were you I would do that and just ask for Hunter.
I’m pretty excited too. I just ordered a CZ 457 Pro Varmint also so I will be able to do some head to head comparisons. If it shoots as well stock as the Tikka I will be amazed. My plan is to guy the rifle a little at a time and customize it so I’m not really worried about how it shoots in stock configuration anyway.
EODDAVE27,
Who is doing the work on your barrel?
Who is doing the work on your barrel?
He is a guy local to me. His name is Dave Stancil. He is a damn good gunsmith though. He pays attention to the smallest details. I have had him do the work on all my precision rifles and all the work has been fantastic. He is also a good friend so he really goes the extra mile on stuff I bring in to him.
We expect pics man. I have been looking to make mine a heavy barrel.
Has any one been able to get ahold of Eric? I can't get a response out of him. I'd much rather have his bore guide than the Boretech.
Do your guys' Tikkas have a cold bore / first round POI shift? And also how long does it take to for it to exhibit a "cold bore" shot again? 10 min of cooling? 15min?
I really should measure these things more diligently -- when I was shooting unsuppressed, I believe I was getting about a .5-1" shift high on my first shot @ 100 yards.
But cold bore shot with the cold shot on my SilencerCo Sparrow exhibits a cold bore / cold suppressor shift that's probably 1.5" right and 1" high.
Subsequent shots will be fine. I didn't let it cool off today as I was going for groups on my 6x5's, so I didn't exhibit any other first round flyers.
For NRL22, there are no sighters, so we get a quick zero period, but it's probably 30min till I pull the trigger, and if my first shot is going to be at a 1" target, or the NRL22 scoring ring, I don't want to miss/lose points on it. Also between each stage, it's variable depending on squad size / number of people who showed up, meaning we could go to a new stage within 30min, so guessing whether or not that next string of fire is going to exhibit a "cold bore" like effect is a pain in the ass.
I guess time to get really scientific with my cold bore measurements. And if it's shifting differently per ammo.
I really should measure these things more diligently -- when I was shooting unsuppressed, I believe I was getting about a .5-1" shift high on my first shot @ 100 yards.
But cold bore shot with the cold shot on my SilencerCo Sparrow exhibits a cold bore / cold suppressor shift that's probably 1.5" right and 1" high.
Subsequent shots will be fine. I didn't let it cool off today as I was going for groups on my 6x5's, so I didn't exhibit any other first round flyers.
For NRL22, there are no sighters, so we get a quick zero period, but it's probably 30min till I pull the trigger, and if my first shot is going to be at a 1" target, or the NRL22 scoring ring, I don't want to miss/lose points on it. Also between each stage, it's variable depending on squad size / number of people who showed up, meaning we could go to a new stage within 30min, so guessing whether or not that next string of fire is going to exhibit a "cold bore" like effect is a pain in the ass.
I guess time to get really scientific with my cold bore measurements. And if it's shifting differently per ammo.
My first shot when I sight in is always like 1" low at 50 yards. By the third shot it's shooting perfect. After that I honestly don't notice any cold bore problems during that match.
I haven't noticed any cold bore issues during a match either... not sure why, maybe since the targets are big enough, and shooting 1" low on one isn't going to make or break things most of the time. It is possible that that first shot of the stage is a scoring ring and that's a crappy way to lose like 4 points.
I usually leave my suppressor on all the time. I've noticed that all that shit from the suppressor falls down the barrel. I wonder if some crap is in the barrel and the first couple shots clean it out ?.....just a theory
I really haven't noticed a cold bore POI shift. So much so, I haven't even thought about it since very early on. No one else seems concerned or talks about it at the matches I've attended.
Just finished setting up my Tikka on Saturday (san's the XLR Element). I'm shootin' again tomorrow (Tuesday).
I'll look for variation in my first/cold bore shot from what I recorded on Saturday and post it here.
John
I'll look for variation in my first/cold bore shot from what I recorded on Saturday and post it here.
John
I have a slight POI shift for my first round but not enough to cause a miss at a match. I have the same thing with my centerfire rifles also.
I just got a repair status on my T1X that I sent back for in-feed jam problems and it says repairs complete - pending shipment. Can this be sent directly back to me or does it require and FFL to receive it? I'm in Colorado if that matters.
If you're the owner, they'll ship it back directly to you. Just had my Armalite AR-10 (3GN13) shipped out, repaired and returned directly to me. Out and return FedEx Ground if that matters too. I had thought that firearms had to be sent out via overnight, but Armalite's RMA shipping was Fed Ground and it returned the same way.
John
Mine's ~1.5" high on the first cold bore shot at 100 yards (as of this ~8:30a morning at the range). 2nd and 3rd rounds were in the bull and at my POI. I was using CCI SV (1057FPS, 10.1SD) as I'm still trying to test locally available ammo before I go and order online - SK is next, picking up a 500 box at Mile High Shooting tomorrow morning.
Also, there was another shooter there testing 22LR in his bench rest gun - all ~20 lbs of it. He was making really tiny groups at 50 yards - and is/was a much better shooter than I am. Had all the wind reading gear out too.
Tikka's shooting pretty good - better than I am. Used some lubed ammo this AM to chrono - and see if there was a velocity difference. FWIW, it was 10 fps slower and SD was higher by 4. So much for lubing my own...
My plan for today was to figure out how many rounds it would go before accuracy suffered and I didn't quite make it to any accuracy test. After running ~100 lubed rounds through the Tikka, there was lube buildup around the feed ramp and a round wouldn't feed.
Previously I've been doing a bore snake at ~100 rounds and that seems to work fine for me. I'm not as accurate as the rest of you all - yet. Still working with a 2 lb trigger too.
John
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Thanks Pok_53 & John. The status now shows "shipped to customer" so it's on it's way back. Hopefully the in feed jamming is now fixed. Hopefully.
FWIW, in one of the Tikka review articles on the 'net that I read - they had a feeding issue too. Their fix was around the action screws and the bottom "metal". If memory serves they took some sand paper to it. If I find it again, I'll post a link here.
John
John
Well, here you go: https://precisiondefenceindustries.com/tikka-t1x-review/
"So, after Bourneys first impressions, what had changed and what stayed the same?
The trigger and magazine performance hadn’t changed; they were excellent! That said, Bourney did lightly sand the front of the factory bottom metal to change the feeding angle a fraction, improving feeding. As far as factory triggers go, the T1X is clean, crisp and light. The magazine had about 1/10 mis-feeds with Eley Black (perhaps a combination of the heavy lube and blunt nosed projectile) but with every other ammunition type, it was flawless."
John
"So, after Bourneys first impressions, what had changed and what stayed the same?
The trigger and magazine performance hadn’t changed; they were excellent! That said, Bourney did lightly sand the front of the factory bottom metal to change the feeding angle a fraction, improving feeding. As far as factory triggers go, the T1X is clean, crisp and light. The magazine had about 1/10 mis-feeds with Eley Black (perhaps a combination of the heavy lube and blunt nosed projectile) but with every other ammunition type, it was flawless."
John
Thanks, John - good review, well, he was kinda so-so on the gun. looking forward to getting mine back. Thinking re-stock with At One or Bravo.
You betcha.
FWIW, I went with an XLR Element for my Tikka (because I already own one for my Rem 700 .308 bolt) and just modified the order to add the folder option. Thought HARD on the KRG Bravo and you won’t go wrong with one. It’s pretty similar to my McMillan clone (that my Pierce action in 6.5x47 Lapua is in).
Sat behind a Bravo about a month ago. For me, and I’m picking nits a bit, but I like fit/finish (and adjustability) of my XLR more. But that’s just me.
Frankly, (IMHO) just about any chassis/stock will be an upgrade over the original Tikka stock for many. I’m not what you’d call a fan of most synthetic stocks - just too bendy for me - so milled/anodized aluminum and AR style ergos float my boat better.
On mine I’ve added the beaver tail fore end, pistol grip, a bipod rail, sling swivels and a longer butt pad trying get it to fit me and run as my 308 trainer. All in all, no joy. But, again, that’s just me.
Boyd’s AT-One is stiff. But, from what I’ve read, you’ll likely need to pillar bed the action too. If you’re not into bedding, KRG is a better bet.
I handled a CZ AT-One in .17 HMR and it was good, not great. Tikka bolt throw was worse than the CZ I looked at, but now after ~500 rounds, mine is now much smoother as I thought might be the case.
Oh, and I added a DIP bolt handle. MUCH better than stock, and I may still go with a Sterk swept, but for now the DIP bolt handle is great.
John
FWIW, I went with an XLR Element for my Tikka (because I already own one for my Rem 700 .308 bolt) and just modified the order to add the folder option. Thought HARD on the KRG Bravo and you won’t go wrong with one. It’s pretty similar to my McMillan clone (that my Pierce action in 6.5x47 Lapua is in).
Sat behind a Bravo about a month ago. For me, and I’m picking nits a bit, but I like fit/finish (and adjustability) of my XLR more. But that’s just me.
Frankly, (IMHO) just about any chassis/stock will be an upgrade over the original Tikka stock for many. I’m not what you’d call a fan of most synthetic stocks - just too bendy for me - so milled/anodized aluminum and AR style ergos float my boat better.
On mine I’ve added the beaver tail fore end, pistol grip, a bipod rail, sling swivels and a longer butt pad trying get it to fit me and run as my 308 trainer. All in all, no joy. But, again, that’s just me.
Boyd’s AT-One is stiff. But, from what I’ve read, you’ll likely need to pillar bed the action too. If you’re not into bedding, KRG is a better bet.
I handled a CZ AT-One in .17 HMR and it was good, not great. Tikka bolt throw was worse than the CZ I looked at, but now after ~500 rounds, mine is now much smoother as I thought might be the case.
Oh, and I added a DIP bolt handle. MUCH better than stock, and I may still go with a Sterk swept, but for now the DIP bolt handle is great.
John
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Can't find Eric but I did find his bore guide in stock. I ordered the #601 from Nordicmarksman in Canada.
Mine was in repair, just checked on it and it had shipped to me. Tracking shows it will be back to me in 09/04. We shall see what the repair notes say.
Did anybody get anywhere seeing if they can just buy the firing pin from berreta?
Just checked with my gunsmith and my rifle should be back in plenty of time to sight it in and put some rounds down range before a match next weekend. I’m itching to see how the new barrel shoots.
Good luck. Mine will deliver here tomorrow. Hope they include some notes on what corrections were done and what they found.
Same here. I’d at least like to know the root cause. I shipped all 6 mags back with mine.
Got the T1x back and notes on the invoice said the stock was improperly installed. It was correctly installed and tested for 20 rounds. I will call next Tuesday and try to get more detail on the installation. Not sure if that is a torque problem with action screws or what.
Wow, what a waste of time. I wouldn’t expect anything else from Beretta Service though.
I'll be interested hear what you get back from them.
Hello my shooter friends. Excuse me for my bad English, I'm french .. @Just Chuck & @poke_53 I have the same problem as you, I have a GRS bifrost butt and I never try to shoot with the original stock. I tried several ammo, ELEY club, CCI SV, SK RM, SK standard plus. I noticed that I have problems only with the SK RM is SK standard plus. No problem with the CCI SV is ELEY club. I find that the SK are slightly shorter than the other ammunition and I am convinced that this is the cause of the problem. But I do not understand why other tikka t1x owners have no problem with SK ammo. I tried in 2 different chargers, I try to type the back of the chargers but no change, I usually have 1 cartridge out of 10 that gets stuck.There must be a cause for our problem ... Just Chuck the answer of beretta and completely stupid, too bad ... I will try to send you photos. Good day to you
Same here. If that is truly the issue that is fine. But, it would be nice to be given some troubleshooting tips over the phone before sending it in for several weeks.
Here's a copy of the exact statement. 
Trying to think how or what was contacting the mags and maybe pushing them out of alignment. I don't know.
I'm putting it all back together now - rail, scope, cheek rest and will shoot it exactly as it was returned to see if the jamming is truly fixed.
@Alex266 you might want to consider taking a close look at any contact or interference of the mags in your set up. By the way - that is a really nice looking stock you have!
Trying to think how or what was contacting the mags and maybe pushing them out of alignment. I don't know.
I'm putting it all back together now - rail, scope, cheek rest and will shoot it exactly as it was returned to see if the jamming is truly fixed.
@Alex266 you might want to consider taking a close look at any contact or interference of the mags in your set up. By the way - that is a really nice looking stock you have!
Got to the range this morning with Tikka T1X that was in repair and really no improvement on in feed jams. I had one jam for each of the six mags using SK Std + ammo. I did run two mags of Center X and had no jams with that ammo. I had a couple the felt like they were close to jamming, but no full out jams with Center X. So I'm back to square one.
Here's my 100yard target with the Center X. Not great - but good, IMO.
Here's my 100yard target with the Center X. Not great - but good, IMO.
I had the FTE issue that was "repaired" by Beretta service, but not so much. I bent the spring myself and that seems to have cured the issue. Too bad, as I was considering a T3 for longer range, but since such a small service issue wasn't really resolved, it will cost them
a sale. No big deal from the corporate point of view I guess.
a sale. No big deal from the corporate point of view I guess.
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without seeing the boltface and extractor, my guess is that the rim of the cartridge is having trouble getting into position to be fed into the chamber. my rifle had an extremely tight extractor pivot pin which would allow only limited extractor movement. it may also be a rough boltface, or a rough extractor. best course of action is sending the rifle to an authorized repair facility for repair. I'm not very happy with the quality of the tech sometimes, but I know when something is working right and when it isn't. I ended up repairing my rifle myself because Stoeger Canada is a clown act. hope things work out for you.
Factory stock. I took it out of the stock, inserted a mag and still had occasional jam.
These rifles may not work well wit SK ammo. Kinda sucks cause you would think a large manufacturer would build a rifle that works well with all.
But, what do I know. I may be getting rid of this for a 457. I know they feed. Or just go back to my 455.
But, what do I know. I may be getting rid of this for a 457. I know they feed. Or just go back to my 455.
I've shot now 2000 rounds of SK+ and only had the fte/ftf during my first few hundred. Since paying attention to loading them all the way in the magazine haven't had any fte/ftf.
Also 500 rounds of eley Target. 0 fte.
250 rounds of eley tenex eps and that one has a fte where the cartridge gets stuck in the chamber. Probably happens once every magazine or two. I've heard a few people have issues with the flat nose profile. I switched to ordering the pistol match to get the round nose. Haven't tried it or Eley club yet. I'll go out and shoot tomorrow most likely.
Very unfortunate though all the problems from multiple members. I wish there was a real solution. When they said it was installed wrong in the stock I wonder if it meant like we are tightening the action screws down too much. Someone said it should only be 20-25lbs? I'm at 65 in my bravo. But maybe that's generally not good?
I was thinking CZ also when I got this one, but the five round mags on CZ didn't do it for me.
It they feed well. From all my 455 mags(1-5rd and 6-10rd. I’ve never had a FTF. I’ve probably got 2k rounds through this rifle also.
Cleaned my T1X this weekend and noticed my SilencerCo Sparrow was missing the inner o-ring, so I ordered some o-rings and will clean it and put on new o-rings this week. So I went out and shot unsuppressed. Also was testing out Eley Club, and Eley Match Pistol.
Not very good... shot a bunch at 25 yards to test out the zero. My Eley Target/Club/Match zero at the same POI, so that's good. Didn't notice anything crazy at 25 yards, but at 100, man it was not that great.
Started out with Eley Target, had 4 groups around 1-1.2 inches, which is what I'd expect. I think my lot of Target must be chrono'd really fast, because it's only about 1.9 mil up for 100 yards. Ballistics app state it should be around 2.2. Tested this for 30 or so rounds just to make sure, and it was pretty clear.
Next up, went out to Eley Club. First two rounds through, had basically the same impact as my Eley Target. Interesting. Next 8 rounds, all grouped about 1 inch low. I went to the 25 yard line to see the zero, and it was the same zero, so that's good. Dialed up to 2.2mil and it's spot on. This is great... my Eley Club actually matches my Ballistics app, at the 1085 fps.
Went and did a 6x5, and it was just really odd. Occasionally get some really oddball flyers, it was really odd -- not sure the cause. When the flyers happened, the only thing that really stood out to me was I heard some sort of "spring" noise. Like a spring that reverberates. I didn't really scientific test it out enough to really make a good correlation but it was odd. Not sure what caused the random 2" flyers. It wasn't the trigger pull mechanic, it was just really weird. Would barrel harmonics sometimes just be off and shit happens? Maybe muzzle crown damage?
Next up, tested out the Eley Match Pistol. I'm happy that it had the same POI as my Eley Club, same 2.2 mil for 100 yards. The one thing to note is that the lube on the Eley Match is different than Eley Target/Club. Eley Target/Club the bullets are black, but Eley Match, even those this was the round nose, it had the same lube as my Tenex which the bullet looks silver. It feels a tiny bit dryer.
Eley Match also had the same FTE issues as Tenex, though not as bad. Out of the 50 rounds, I had 2 FTE.
So 50 rounds of Target, 0 FTE/FTF. 50 rounds of Club, 0 FTE/FTF, and then 50 rounds of Match Pistol, 2 FTE. I can't wait to put on the suppressor again, not sure why I get such weirdness when I shoot unsupressed...
Not very good... shot a bunch at 25 yards to test out the zero. My Eley Target/Club/Match zero at the same POI, so that's good. Didn't notice anything crazy at 25 yards, but at 100, man it was not that great.
Started out with Eley Target, had 4 groups around 1-1.2 inches, which is what I'd expect. I think my lot of Target must be chrono'd really fast, because it's only about 1.9 mil up for 100 yards. Ballistics app state it should be around 2.2. Tested this for 30 or so rounds just to make sure, and it was pretty clear.
Next up, went out to Eley Club. First two rounds through, had basically the same impact as my Eley Target. Interesting. Next 8 rounds, all grouped about 1 inch low. I went to the 25 yard line to see the zero, and it was the same zero, so that's good. Dialed up to 2.2mil and it's spot on. This is great... my Eley Club actually matches my Ballistics app, at the 1085 fps.
Went and did a 6x5, and it was just really odd. Occasionally get some really oddball flyers, it was really odd -- not sure the cause. When the flyers happened, the only thing that really stood out to me was I heard some sort of "spring" noise. Like a spring that reverberates. I didn't really scientific test it out enough to really make a good correlation but it was odd. Not sure what caused the random 2" flyers. It wasn't the trigger pull mechanic, it was just really weird. Would barrel harmonics sometimes just be off and shit happens? Maybe muzzle crown damage?
Next up, tested out the Eley Match Pistol. I'm happy that it had the same POI as my Eley Club, same 2.2 mil for 100 yards. The one thing to note is that the lube on the Eley Match is different than Eley Target/Club. Eley Target/Club the bullets are black, but Eley Match, even those this was the round nose, it had the same lube as my Tenex which the bullet looks silver. It feels a tiny bit dryer.
Eley Match also had the same FTE issues as Tenex, though not as bad. Out of the 50 rounds, I had 2 FTE.
So 50 rounds of Target, 0 FTE/FTF. 50 rounds of Club, 0 FTE/FTF, and then 50 rounds of Match Pistol, 2 FTE. I can't wait to put on the suppressor again, not sure why I get such weirdness when I shoot unsupressed...
