Wow...that is a great deal. Picked one up. Thanks for the info!
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Wow...that is a great deal. Picked one up. Thanks for the info!
I added the straighter grip, the target forearm, the spacers and the rubber recoil pad to my base class T1x. Also removed the "barrel spacer block" to free-float the barrel.
The Caldwell Harris copy bipod fits the forearm just fine, probably a bit better than the original width forearm. The buttstock spacers add about 1/4" each and the rubber buttpad is 1" thick. Removing the stock buttplate and replacing it with these pieces added about 1" to the LOP. Now it's about 14 1/4" LOP, which fits me pretty good.
It's a little tricky to install the spacers because they don't "lock in" to either the stock or the buttpad so everything is just "smashed together" as can be seen in the picture. It works, but it could definitely be improved.
I concocted the comb riser from a sheet of kydex and backed it with duct table to keep it from slipping. I simply drilled through the stock to mount it. Not fancy, but good enough for my uses.
Based on what you have said, I would have to suggest the Tikka T1x. Reason I suggest this is it has a great track record, I have had 3 22 lr, still have two and it can be upgraded as needed. The Tikka doesn't cost a lot but is still a great rifle. If for some reason you decide the game is not for you you are not out a lot of money. If you do love the sport and want to keep going you will still have several options one being upgrading the Tikka with a KRG Bravo stock. Today I shot 900 rounds combined from my Tikka #3, B-14R and Anschutz 1712 MDT. The little lowly "price wise" Tikka held its own and would have made any difference in any rimfire sport other than Bench Rest which it would have lost . Once I get all the targets checked I'll make a post about today. One thing you might be interested in is how the Tikka did in the factory stock compared to the KRG Bravo.
@Kisssofdeath idk about anyone else but I’d be very interested in the comparison between the factory set up and the bravo... I don’t necessarily want to be in an open class but I love the looks of the bravo
I really want to stay base class but I'm torn between the Oryx and bravo chassis
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My accuracy improved greatly by using the KRG Bravo chassis and it looks and feels much better, more adjustable my only complaint is that the rifle in the Bravo is really light. I have shot 12-15 different types of competition ammo and it shoots everything ok but really likes SK Pistol Match.
Is there enough space for a little velcro to help secure the cheek riser? Together with the bolts it seems like that would hold up to tactical use.
Here is the comparison for my Tikka #3 in the factory stock VS the KRG Bravo. Spoiler alert, I don't think it made a significant improvement in accuracy for me. What it did do was help me tailor the rifle to fit me better and if looks matter, to me it looks better. Honestly if I wasn't installing the IBI barrel I'm not sure I would have ever bought one. I needed it for the larger barrel channel. But, now, I'm glad I got it and was so pleased with the first one I did buy another for my T1x 17HMR.
I will post photos from today first then look for others. Just keep in mind these are results for my rifle and yours may be different. Look at the top of the plates for information. Factory stock will be on top.
Well that's ten photos but all I had for comparison anyway. Draw your own conclusion.
I will post photos from today first then look for others. Just keep in mind these are results for my rifle and yours may be different. Look at the top of the plates for information. Factory stock will be on top.
Well that's ten photos but all I had for comparison anyway. Draw your own conclusion.
Tatman, can you quantify that? Not that I don't believe that there wasn't improvement, just how much was there.
These 22s are light. I have heavy optics and am building a spigot ARCA rail, less see if I need a weight kit!
These 22s are light. I have heavy optics and am building a spigot ARCA rail, less see if I need a weight kit!
That's a good idea. I'm sure there could be enough room there, the kydex is somewhat flexible and it could always be spread back out a little with some heat. I just used duct tape as backing material on the kydex to add a little bit of friction since it was what I had on hand. That seems to have done the trick well enough for NRL22 matches.
i tried a bunch of different ammo all at 50 yards and 5 shot groups and for me there was a difference in group size especially in the different ammo types. Granted there were some that it shot the same with either. I am sorry that I do not keep photo records on the Tikka T1X I only keep that info for my 2 Vudoo's. At the end of the day I would purchase the bravo all over again if I bought another T1X.
At the end of the day nothing really shot bad but when it comes to .22LR finding what your rifle likes is half the fun/battle
I mostly use these.
Other types should work also. If you do try something other than Avery I would make use the dots don't have a gloss finish. They reflect light and makes the dot hard to pick up. I have also used other brands and those were a PITA to remove from their backing.
@Kisssofdeath
Have you shot those reinforcers at 100yds yet. Just curious as to how it looks at 100.
Have you shot those reinforcers at 100yds yet. Just curious as to how it looks at 100.
Haven't shot them at 100 yards yet. Depending reticle size and type (a dot or fine xhairs) at a minimum, a 12 power would be needed to see at 55 yards and preferably a 15x. I say this based on my experience with what I have tried.
Tikka T1x Bolt Handles - Mountain Tactical Company
Trick out your T1x with these titillating bits from Mountain Tactical. Each T1x bolt handle is .250” longer than the factory T1x bolt knob. This increase in
tikkaperformance.com
This place doesn't get any love here but I just ordered on of there handles. Might work for you.
Mountain Tactical has good products. I have one of their bolt handles and one of their scope bases.Tikka T1x Bolt Handles - Mountain Tactical Company
Trick out your T1x with these titillating bits from Mountain Tactical. Each T1x bolt handle is .250” longer than the factory T1x bolt knob. This increase in
This place doesn't get any love here but I just ordered on of there handles. Might work for you.
Here is the one from Mountain Tactical.
Here is one from DIP.
My favorite by far the Sterk swept bolt handle. This deserves more than just one photo.
You may ask if Sterk is my favorite why do I have the others. I just like trying different things.
Anyone running one of these in a Manners? Sorry if it's been asked in the 66 pages here...
Ben
Ben
Made it to the range today for the 1st time. I put the barreled action in a stockys vg2 carbon I had laying around. Shot about 50 rounds. All CCI SV. Zero feed/extraction issues. I’m pretty happy. Was rushing because of cold/dark. Pics below. Of 50 and 100 yards.
Attachments
Good job, real world results. Accuracy will get better the more you shoot it. Not that the rifle may increase in accuracy "although it could" but you will bet more accustomed to the rifle and what works best. Not talking about ammo, talking about hold, shoulder pressure, finger placement on the trigger, ect.
Tikka T1x Bolt Handles - Mountain Tactical Company
Trick out your T1x with these titillating bits from Mountain Tactical. Each T1x bolt handle is .250” longer than the factory T1x bolt knob. This increase in
This place doesn't get any love here but I just ordered on of there handles. Might work for you.
Interesting, but i'm really fancying the DIP one right now and literally no one has it in stock
Some other designs for the T1xInteresting, but i'm really fancying the DIP one right now and literally no one has it in stock
I was too, until I saw how it locked up against the square bolt knob interface and I thought the MT ones were sexy particularly the outdoorsman. Should have it in hand by the end of the week.
Those are also Sterk units.
Not sure if Tactical Works ships to Canada.
Eurooptic will, not sure if this needs an export license by them or not.
Sterk Shooting
Sterk Shooting shrouds and bolt handles soon available at EuroOptic! Call now at (570) 368-3920 for more information.
Cool. Welcome to the pain in the ass that is trying to buy gun parts from U.S -> Canada...
Why a bolt handle is ITAR is beyond me
Because of the short and easy bolt throw on the Tikka this little snubby handle would actually work.
Where I shot here, just outside Huntsville, AL, the competition required single capabilities only. I assumed these rules to be nationwide, since they report the scores back to the NRA... (?)
Both of mine were tight with some loctite on the threads. It was tuff but cam out with some force.
I don’t know if they will let you do this there but when I shot NRA F class I had several magazines and just loaded single rounds in my magazine. I have 4-5 magazines and just swapped and reloaded. The rifle I was shooting really had issues when I single loaded.
I want to share some information about the Tikka T1x receiver shank inlet inside diameter size and shape. As some of you know/remember, I had an IBI barrel that I sent back because it had a very loose fit in the receiver, looser than the factory barrel, factory barrel shank measured .695". The IBI barrel shot extremely well with Lapua Pistol King but that was about it and the rest was just ho hum. Ryan with IBI gave me the opportunity to replace it which I did. During our conversation I requested a .700" shank size and chamber cut with the 52D reamer. A few days ago I received my new barrel and the shank was sized at .700" just like I requested. I get the barrel, it's too tight, freezer method doesn't work to shrink it, didn't want to heat the receiver so....in doing all this I noticed that the receiver actually looked out of round because I had a gap at the top of the barrel/receiver fit. Next, I went to the trouble of pulling the barrel out of the other T1x I have and that receiver was the same. At this point my head is spinning and I wondered how Tikka could make two receivers out of round "egg shaped".
To make a long story short, I'm 99% sure this is actually a Tikka design that allows the barrel to be tightened up with the three set screws and make two point of contact near the top of the barrel, say a contact point at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. Those contact points with the set screw contact point allow for a three point contact to ensure the barrel is held in place without movement and would explain why those screws are so tight and why the receiver is egg shaped. If you think about it, with this type set screw design it makes perfect sense Tikka made the receiver ID the way they did. Both Sako and CZ uses a different method to attach their removable barrels.
Why didn't I discover this sooner you may ask? First, because I wasn't smart enough , second, because the barrels always just slipped right in with no reason for me to think the receiver could be or was egg shaped. In reality, even though the first IBI barrel had a very loose fit it was probably still ok.
I used pin gauges on the receiver and the size that barrely slipped in was .697" the size I should have had IBI make my shank too. My shank is sized correctly now and will have photos up later. I do have the perfect fit but in reality a loose fit would have worked also.
The big shootout is taking shape.
To make a long story short, I'm 99% sure this is actually a Tikka design that allows the barrel to be tightened up with the three set screws and make two point of contact near the top of the barrel, say a contact point at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. Those contact points with the set screw contact point allow for a three point contact to ensure the barrel is held in place without movement and would explain why those screws are so tight and why the receiver is egg shaped. If you think about it, with this type set screw design it makes perfect sense Tikka made the receiver ID the way they did. Both Sako and CZ uses a different method to attach their removable barrels.
Why didn't I discover this sooner you may ask? First, because I wasn't smart enough
, second, because the barrels always just slipped right in with no reason for me to think the receiver could be or was egg shaped. In reality, even though the first IBI barrel had a very loose fit it was probably still ok.I used pin gauges on the receiver and the size that barrely slipped in was .697" the size I should have had IBI make my shank too. My shank is sized correctly now and will have photos up later. I do have the perfect fit but in reality a loose fit would have worked also.
The big shootout is taking shape.
That is great information, thank you.
Info I got from Tikka via the Canadian Distributor was 10 N-m (88.5 inch pounds) on the screws.... really really tight.....
Plus their addition of the "adhesive beading compound" makes your discovery ring true.
They use the compound to fill the gap then tighten the hell out of the screws.
Info I got from Tikka via the Canadian Distributor was 10 N-m (88.5 inch pounds) on the screws.... really really tight.....
Plus their addition of the "adhesive beading compound" makes your discovery ring true.
They use the compound to fill the gap then tighten the hell out of the screws.
I had to use a heat gun around the barrel to get all that adhesive bedding compound to loosen up. I didn't do any bedding on my new IBI barrel, just tightened up the set screws hand tight. I didn't even torque it down that much. I've been shooting pretty consistent .8" groups with it at 100 yards so I'm fine.
Mine seemed to be odd based on all I read regarding removing barrels.
Screws were tight but not what Tikka said they were supposed to be. I had no issues removing the screws. Pulled the barrel out - didn't have to heat it or use any external force.
My IBI was same as your first one, slightly wobbly in the receiver. I wound up using 45 in-lb to torque the barrel down with the grub screws.
Am getting groups like yours at 100 with SK Std+, waiting for spring to run Center-X through it and take it out to 350....
I just keep Center-X in my pocket when I shoot to keep it from getting too cold.
My 200 yard groups with C-X are about 2". With Pistol Match Special I am shooting 10 shot groups at about 3". Rifle holds up well. Furthest I've taken it though is 235.
My 200 yard groups with C-X are about 2". With Pistol Match Special I am shooting 10 shot groups at about 3". Rifle holds up well. Furthest I've taken it though is 235.
I really got only one problem with my tikka t1x and that is the standard stock.
It’s very short for me so I sit to cramped behind it. I’m looking around to buy the KRG Bravo stock but since they don’t have it in Belgium and it’s very expensive over here buy I want to ask if someone can measure the extra distance i will have to the stock one (without the spacers and with the spacers).
Or maybe someone has a picture of both of them next to each other?
Thanks in advance already
P.S don’t know if you guys already know but the threading front teeth barrel are differently in the EU vs the US, ordered a muzzle break in the US but it didn’t fit. So be aware buying overseas
It’s very short for me so I sit to cramped behind it. I’m looking around to buy the KRG Bravo stock but since they don’t have it in Belgium and it’s very expensive over here buy I want to ask if someone can measure the extra distance i will have to the stock one (without the spacers and with the spacers).
Or maybe someone has a picture of both of them next to each other?
Thanks in advance already
P.S don’t know if you guys already know but the threading front teeth barrel are differently in the EU vs the US, ordered a muzzle break in the US but it didn’t fit. So be aware buying overseas
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