True, accuracy for a stock Tikka is pretty dang good.
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Has anyone determined an optimal torque value for the action screws mating a T1X to a KRG bravo? I have mine at the very scientific "hand tight" but it seems to be working well. I dont have a torque wrench to take to the range but can use my neighbor's in the evening to get the setting right, but can't take it since he's a machinist and needs it during the day...
Mine performs best at 30in lbs.
I have always set all my rifles at 20. I use this for standardization. The Bergara B-14R I have came from the factory at 55-60 in/lb and after experimenting extensively I have set it at 20 also.
That is a good question and one that I don't have a definitive answer to. I do know across the board with all my rifles I have shot many different types of ammo that have been very accurate with the same 20 in/lb setting.
I bought into the hype, and bought an YoDave spring. I don't know that it really needed it but, make money to spend it... Anyone know how low it adjust it without dry firing? It frankly doesn't seem much lower. I just screwed the set screw in the same amount as it was originally. Is there a better way to adjust it?
The spring and set screw is the only adjustment that I'm aware of. Best you can do to start with is install the spring and back the set screw out until it touches the mounting bolt. Then go shoot. If you don't get any firing pin drops then you are at the best trigger weight you can get. I have read where people have ground off some of that bolt and backed the set screw out more but I haven't tried that.
As for dry firing you can use a fired case or you can use one of the orange snap caps. I believe the caps say not to use them for dry firing but I haven't had any negative effects yet and I've used them for years.
As for dry firing you can use a fired case or you can use one of the orange snap caps. I believe the caps say not to use them for dry firing but I haven't had any negative effects yet and I've used them for years.
A lot of the T1X triggers prevented the adjustment from going too low due to some sear engagement issues. Mine was like that... I was too lazy to send it to Beretta, so I ended up just swapping it with a T3X trigger.
www.rimfirecentral.com
Can't get T1X trigger < 2.5lbs
I just got my new T1x. It also has the same sear engagement problem when the trigger pull weight is reduced. Does anyone have had this issue fixed by Beretta ? Or is there a way to increase the sear clearance for proper trigger reset ?
www.rimfirecentral.com Mine is like that. I installed the Elay Precision spring and went from 2.5 to 2 pounds. Also too lazy to send it to Beretta (and be without my rifle for 6 weeks), but don’t really feel like buying another trigger hahaA lot of the T1X triggers prevented the adjustment from going too low due to some sear engagement issues. Mine was like that... I was too lazy to send it to Beretta, so I ended up just swapping it with a T3X trigger.
Can't get T1X trigger < 2.5lbs
I just got my new T1x. It also has the same sear engagement problem when the trigger pull weight is reduced. Does anyone have had this issue fixed by Beretta ? Or is there a way to increase the sear clearance for proper trigger reset ?
SKRM shoots best in my sons gun at 15”#, sub MOA, and only at that setting, anything above that and it averages MOA+. All the Eley we have shot, Club, Edge, Contact, Force as well as Wolf MT shoot tighter at higher settings. Edge and WMT like 40-43”#. MDT LSS chassis. YMMV
Any tests i should run before range day to I sure safety? I haven't backed the screw out all the way but quite a ways. I dropped the rifle but first on the bench 3 times and it didn't ignite. It's an NRL rig so live bolt open mag out...
Sounds like it'd be alright.
Just put on the Lothar Walther Barrel: Note that the Lilja thread protector for the CZ fits flawlessly.
That looks awesome. Let us know how it shoots.
I’m thinking I need some lower rings, for sure. ...but I’ll try to get it out on Monday and see how it shoots.
I think it looks great. I wouldn't think you need lower rings but that's your call. Can you reach the tension lever for the bipod with it in front like it is? The entire setup is similar to mine.
I just put that on there real fast.... i used to having the rail quick release on the left side... as with my other bipods.
I'm the same way. Just flip the mount around. Then you can still reach the tension knob
Looks awesome! Definitely need a range report!
Got my rifle all finished up. i am still undecided on if I’m going to bead blast the barrel or not. I put on a muzzle brake just to add a little length to the rifle. For now I’m going to leave it as is and just shoot It.
Got to practice some today, needless to say I was impressed, best shooting I’ve done with the gun to date (federal match .22 902a I think?)
Not sure what I did to two of them but I’ll take it... I’m sure it was me... anywho playing with this rifle has convinced me to sell my savage and get a t3x ctr to match my .22, absolutely in love with this little guy
that was a 2 shot I was playing with match targets to see if I even stood a chance at trying to compete... super excited to see that pair but the other 3 left some to be desired... eh, nothing beats trigger time right?
Not sure what I did to two of them but I’ll take it... I’m sure it was me... anywho playing with this rifle has convinced me to sell my savage and get a t3x ctr to match my .22, absolutely in love with this little guy
that was a 2 shot I was playing with match targets to see if I even stood a chance at trying to compete... super excited to see that pair but the other 3 left some to be desired... eh, nothing beats trigger time right?
I was trying to contact Beretta but they were EST and closed already by the time I called. I saw the link that said go to Brownell's to get spare parts. I was browsing Brownell's and --
www.brownells.com
If you want the cheap plastic synthetic stock that came with it... $575! WTF.
My little extractor claw ended up costing me $40... hopefully that'll help with things. After switching barrels and having a tighter headspace the factory claw in my bolt isn't always reliable. I got a new T1X for my father-in-law for Christmas, and his bolt works flawlessly. I compared the extractors and his is slightly larger and longer. More rim space and engages the extractor cut on the barrel sooner as well. I'll give the new extractor a try when it gets here, or I might end up just swapping him bolts for a while since he's running a factory stock/barrel.
I haven't shot a factory bolt in a long time... and even though I have a Sterk now, I really don't have any issues with the factory bolt. I ran a few stages today using his bolt and didn't really feel like I was lacking anything. The oversized/swept back bolt does give you more leverage, but on a smooth feeding 22 it doesn't really matter all that much. It definitely looks nicer though
TIKKA TIKKA T1X SYNTHETIC STOCK | Brownells
TIKKA TIKKA T1X SYNTHETIC STOCK | Brownells
www.brownells.com If you want the cheap plastic synthetic stock that came with it... $575! WTF.
My little extractor claw ended up costing me $40... hopefully that'll help with things. After switching barrels and having a tighter headspace the factory claw in my bolt isn't always reliable. I got a new T1X for my father-in-law for Christmas, and his bolt works flawlessly. I compared the extractors and his is slightly larger and longer. More rim space and engages the extractor cut on the barrel sooner as well. I'll give the new extractor a try when it gets here, or I might end up just swapping him bolts for a while since he's running a factory stock/barrel.
I haven't shot a factory bolt in a long time... and even though I have a Sterk now, I really don't have any issues with the factory bolt. I ran a few stages today using his bolt and didn't really feel like I was lacking anything. The oversized/swept back bolt does give you more leverage, but on a smooth feeding 22 it doesn't really matter all that much. It definitely looks nicer though
Lothar Walter barrel first spin:
I took the rifle out today, and it shot well. I, on the other hand, was having a very difficult time with the scope and it's eye relief (maybe I should have used the S&B Ultra Short).
The following ammo grouped very well at 25 yards:
- SK Standard Plus
- Lapua Biathlon Xtreme
- RWS Rifle Match
- CCI Green Tag
Unfortunately, it did not seem to like CCI polyimer coats HV ammo
I used two suppressors as well, and I found a minimal shift in POI:
- Sinlencer Co 22 Sparrow SS
- YHM Mite Stainless (with Sound Tech baffle system)
Subsonic rounds:
- American Eagle (OK)
- RWS Subsonic HP ( Grouped with bullet holes touching)
I'm going to need to run this again, as I was having a very difficult time with the eye-relief on the scope, and that was causing issues...
Ammo tried today:
- SK Standard Plus
- Lapua Biathlon Xtreme
- RWS Rifle Match
- CCI Green Tag
- American Eagle 22 Suppressor
- RWS Subsonic HP
- Prime 22LR (for Semis)
- RWS Target Pistol
- Lapua Center-X
- Federal HV Match
- CCI Clean-22 HV [polymer coated]
1) Supressor subsonic: AE (Left) RWS (Right)
2) SK Std Plus
3) Green Tag
4) Gold Medal HV
5) RWS Rifle Match
6) Lapua Biathlon Xtreme
....no, I'm not a 22 god.
9 shot groups as the mags were not taking 10 rounds... and I wanted to see actual groups.
I took the rifle out today, and it shot well. I, on the other hand, was having a very difficult time with the scope and it's eye relief (maybe I should have used the S&B Ultra Short).
The following ammo grouped very well at 25 yards:
- SK Standard Plus
- Lapua Biathlon Xtreme
- RWS Rifle Match
- CCI Green Tag
Unfortunately, it did not seem to like CCI polyimer coats HV ammo
I used two suppressors as well, and I found a minimal shift in POI:
- Sinlencer Co 22 Sparrow SS
- YHM Mite Stainless (with Sound Tech baffle system)
Subsonic rounds:
- American Eagle (OK)
- RWS Subsonic HP ( Grouped with bullet holes touching)
I'm going to need to run this again, as I was having a very difficult time with the eye-relief on the scope, and that was causing issues...
Ammo tried today:
- SK Standard Plus
- Lapua Biathlon Xtreme
- RWS Rifle Match
- CCI Green Tag
- American Eagle 22 Suppressor
- RWS Subsonic HP
- Prime 22LR (for Semis)
- RWS Target Pistol
- Lapua Center-X
- Federal HV Match
- CCI Clean-22 HV [polymer coated]
1) Supressor subsonic: AE (Left) RWS (Right)
2) SK Std Plus
3) Green Tag
4) Gold Medal HV
5) RWS Rifle Match
6) Lapua Biathlon Xtreme
....no, I'm not a 22 god.
9 shot groups as the mags were not taking 10 rounds... and I wanted to see actual groups.
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Here is another view. It seems to make sense but setting stock torque is such a constant topic. I know nothing so be kind.
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Did the thread protector thread on easily for you? I just picked up my rifle back from the smith with the Lothar barrel too and my thread protectors and brakes will only thread on a few turns.
That makes two of us. ?
I'm only doing what others are recommending as I'm pretty new to this area of firearms.
I was cranking down my screws like a gorilla and frankly, I've noticed no difference from then to now when I use controlled 25 inch/lbs.
I tend to agree with the gentlemen in the video but we all like to over think these things, otherwise we wouldn't have anything to post on here except in the Bear Pit.
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it was tight initally.... then I kept going and it was fine. Works great now....
Update on my end regarding the extractor. I took out both extractor claws from the new T1X and mine, and I filed mine down to have the same angle/hook as the new one. The only difference is that the new one is slightly taller.
I ran my newly filed one, and still no luck on extracting tight rounds in the match barrel.
At this point the only difference is that since it's taller, it engages the extractor cut on the barrel sooner... I ended up just swapping the new T1X claw into my bolt, keeping my same spring as we were diagnosing piece by piece. Voila, it worked.
So hopefully the $35 replacement part from MGW is going to be like the new T1X specs, and not my rifle. I also called Beretta today and got a hold of them. I went the gunsmith/repair route on the automated phone service and told the guy that the two extractor claws I had were different. He sent me a new one for free. Part of their 2 year warranty . So that's nice.
I'm not sure why they wouldn't send @Jefe's Dope that firing pin.
Next up - I'm going to run my old claw in the new bolt in a factory rifle and see how that works. Maybe it's the angle of the cut of the new barrel + it being tight that requires this slightly larger claw / engagement angle.
I ran my newly filed one, and still no luck on extracting tight rounds in the match barrel.
At this point the only difference is that since it's taller, it engages the extractor cut on the barrel sooner... I ended up just swapping the new T1X claw into my bolt, keeping my same spring as we were diagnosing piece by piece. Voila, it worked.
So hopefully the $35 replacement part from MGW is going to be like the new T1X specs, and not my rifle. I also called Beretta today and got a hold of them. I went the gunsmith/repair route on the automated phone service and told the guy that the two extractor claws I had were different. He sent me a new one for free. Part of their 2 year warranty . So that's nice.
I'm not sure why they wouldn't send @Jefe's Dope that firing pin.
Next up - I'm going to run my old claw in the new bolt in a factory rifle and see how that works. Maybe it's the angle of the cut of the new barrel + it being tight that requires this slightly larger claw / engagement angle.
Did I miss something? I'm not up to speed with a old claw/new claw. Was there a bolt update as well?
Guess I need to call Berreta and try and get a firing pin out of them. And a new claw too? ?
My factory claw in my T1X did not work with the tight match IBI barrel or maybe the IBI barrel's extractor cut was different, or due to headspacing. A ton of factors. I can't extract live rounds out of my IBI Win52D barrel. But my new T1X's bolt worked fine. I then swapped claws, and now my bolt works fine.
I have 2 more claws coming, one from Beretta, and one from MGW (Paid $33 + 12$ for expedited shipping for this weekend's match). I am curious what the size of these new claws are..
Lothar Walther Barrel (Remember, I suck at 22lr...) @ 25 yards...
Taget 2 is the Lapua Biathlon Xtreme with 5 shots in the group...
Target 12 is 6 shots of SK Standard Plus:
It also shot CCI Green Tag really well...
...and it also liked the CCI Polymer Sub-Sonic... which is really standard velocity
Taget 2 is the Lapua Biathlon Xtreme with 5 shots in the group...
Target 12 is 6 shots of SK Standard Plus:
It also shot CCI Green Tag really well...
...and it also liked the CCI Polymer Sub-Sonic... which is really standard velocity
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I haven't went thru all 68 pages of this thread. But, has anyone else had magazine feeding issues?
I currently have 3 mags for my t1x and they all seem to have a feeding issue at about round 6 or so. Almost like the round will stove pipe in the mag.
I currently have 3 mags for my t1x and they all seem to have a feeding issue at about round 6 or so. Almost like the round will stove pipe in the mag.
Are u shooting sk?
Sk biathlon
What I find with the magazines is that you have to make sure to hit them on the table prior to loading them.
Similar to what you do with 30 round GI mags for an M-16 you do the same thing for these mags...
The bullets just don’t seat properly and then you get a feed issue
Similar to what you do with 30 round GI mags for an M-16 you do the same thing for these mags...
The bullets just don’t seat properly and then you get a feed issue
I've never had this happen and then my friend shot my rifle and it happened to him. It was because he was short stroking the bolt.
Well, I guess I will have to run some ammo tests. I have about a brick worth each of Norma Match22, Federal ultramatch, and center X and a few boxes of Tenex.
SK was the only ammo that gave me any feeding issues, and I have tested a lot of ammo. it was not as consistent or bad as it seems to have been for you.
So odd... not sure what is going on with all the feeding issues. I haven't had any feeding issues in my Tikka or the new one I just got. Both have fed Eley Contact and SK+ fine.
I also got a chrono out today and measured some stuff.
Factory T1X
Eley Contact
1050fps avg
SD 8
SK Standard Plus
1035 avg
SD 8
Out of my match barrel IBI Win52D Tikka
SK Standard Plus
1071 avg
SD 8
SK Pistol Match Special
1110 avg
SD 7
Lapua Center X
1078 avg
SD 10
I forgot to jot down the ES's, oops.
I also got a chrono out today and measured some stuff.
Factory T1X
Eley Contact
1050fps avg
SD 8
SK Standard Plus
1035 avg
SD 8
Out of my match barrel IBI Win52D Tikka
SK Standard Plus
1071 avg
SD 8
SK Pistol Match Special
1110 avg
SD 7
Lapua Center X
1078 avg
SD 10
I forgot to jot down the ES's, oops.
I used to have a similar problem with my Tikka, then I loosened up the action screws a little and my problems have disappeared. SK rifle and match is pretty much the only ammo I shoot in all of my. 22 rifles.
I can give that a shot. I'm down to 20# as it is now, but I am in the factory stock instead of a chassis, if that world make any difference or not.
I did the action screw thing then at a match i went 0 for 9 at 100yds all the sudden next stage 3 for 10 at 75. So i am mad at myself thinking i just cant shoot. My buddy says check your action screws so i did they loose. I tighten them and cleaned all the remaining stages. So i went home cleaned everything blue lock tite and 65 in/lbs and aint screwed with them since. Granted this is in a bravo chassis so i think u dont get the deflection from a higher torque like u would in a factory stock. And if sk is all it wont feed i am ok with that cause rws100 shoots the best anyway.
It would be a simple matter to drill and tap a hole in the Bravo or add some heavy duty Velcro. Right now I have an elastic mag holder on mine but that looks a lot cleaner than what I have. I would also be all in for a 2-3 round extension for my magazine. That would be huge for me since all our stages here seem to be 12 rounds. 
