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Tikka T3 Thread

With a little modification, you can use a Ruger Polymer Gunsite Scout 3 round AICS style mag in an AICS bottom metal. I shorten the feed lips on my mags, as otherwise the rounds hit the feed ramp hard before they clear the lips. This is in my T3 TAC 308 with GRS Bifrost stock & AICS bottom metal conversion.

The slightly modified Ruger mag fits almost flush with the lip of base plate about 2mm off the stock. For comparison that 5rnd AICS mag is 160grams, the Ruger is 60grams & will accept up to 72mm COAL rounds. Perfect as a single shot base on the range or as a hunting mag.
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The Ruger top area to the sides of the feed lips is rounded by default. I have filed it to a flat sided angle that will let it fit in to the T3 angled magazine port. Basically I copied the angle of the AICS mag. Fits & functions fine now. Though with the shortened feed lips when loaded with 3rnds, the first has a tendency to sit low at the rear & get
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missed by the bolt, so I’ve added a small rubber buffer to the mag spring at the rear so it can’t go below level at full load with the bolt closed.

Enjoy 👍
 
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Kmahow2 said:
With a little modification, you can use a Ruger Polymer Gunsite Scout 3 round AICS style mag in an AICS bottom metal. I shorten the feed lips on my mags, as otherwise the rounds hit the feed ramp hard before they clear the lips. This is in my T3 TAC 308 with GRS Bifrost stock & AICS bottom metal conversion.

The slightly modified Ruger mag fits almost flush with the lip of base plate about 2mm off the stock. For comparison that 5rnd AICS mag is 160grams, the Ruger is 60grams & will accept up to 72mm COAL rounds. Perfect as a single shot base on the range or as a hunting mag.
View attachment 7314805
View attachment 7314806
The Ruger top area to the sides of the feed lips is rounded by default. I have filed it to a flat sided angle that will let it fit in to the T3 angled magazine port. Basically I copied the angle of the AICS mag. Fits & functions fine now. Though with the shortened feed lips when loaded with 3rnds, the first has a tendency to sit low at the rear & get View attachment 7314805missed by the bolt, so I’ve added a small rubber buffer to the mag spring at the rear so it can’t go below level at full load with the bolt closed.

Enjoy 👍
Click to expand...
Or you can buy the Ruger metal mags and use them as is. They are accurate mags with a Ruger floor plate.
 
image0.jpeg


My baby

7mm-08, long action bolt stop, Tikka Performance bottom metal and mag, PVA barrel/barrel nut with Q taper and Cherry bomb.

Still need to get the action and barrel cerakoted in Texas Tan.
 
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What bore guide do you guys use? Specifically for a 6.5 CM Tikka Tac A1. Does any Tikka T3/T3x compatible bore guide work on a Tikka Tac?

People keep recommending some guy named Lucas who apparently hasn't been selling guides since 2018. The other common recommendations like Possum Hollow or Sinclair don't even list a 6.5 Creedmoor for Tikkas. I might just run to Cabelas and grab the universal Tipton boreguide and hope it fits.
 
I have a semi custom being built as we speak. Its being built by Mike @ Hells Canyon Armory
can't wait.
I also have a new 6.5 creedmoore that needs to be shot LOL
 
Hello all. Looking for a yodave trigger spring for my 20” T3X if anyone has an extra I’ll buy it. Also, anyone have have experience with MCARBO trigger spring and any difference with yodave spring?

Thanks folks.
 
1LoyalShooter said:
Hello all. Looking for a yodave trigger spring for my 20” T3X if anyone has an extra I’ll buy it. Also, anyone have have experience with MCARBO trigger spring and any difference with yodave spring?

Thanks folks.
Click to expand...

I have the Yo Dave in one rifle and the Mountain Tactical springs in all of my other rifles. No difference and the MT is $10 shipped.
 
Quarantine freed up time to complete these Tikkas, especially looking forward to trying the switch lugs(SL), various barrels and chassis. Chambered in 223rem (Bartlein, Oryx, SL), 6cm(Kreiger, McMillan, SL), 7 rem mag(Shilen, McMillan), and 7rem mag(Brux, Oryx). Return to zero on the SL will be interesting to test.
 

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f>b25 said:
Quarantine freed up time to complete these Tikkas, especially looking forward to trying the switch lugs(SL), various barrels and chassis. Chambered in 223rem (Bartlein, Oryx, SL), 6cm(Kreiger, McMillan, SL), 7 rem mag(Shilen, McMillan), and 7rem mag(Brux, Oryx). Return to zero on the SL will be interesting to test.
Click to expand...

I am not using the switch lug, but I did have 3/4" flats machined on two barrels for the same rifle this year. I can hold the rifle between my legs and swap barrels in less than 5 minutes. I have to adjust 1.2 mils up and .2 right when I go to my 6.5 Creedmoor from the 22 BR barrel.
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Those switch barrel rigs are fucking slick. How well does zero tend to hold, and how much does a tikka bolt cost?
 
Anyone have a suggestion for a smith to thread a T3 lite for a suppressor? 300 Win either 1/2x28 or 9/16x 24 with an adaptor to 5/8x24
 
reubenski said:
Hold zero? Like once the barrels already on? Just as well as any other barreled action. If you're referring to returning to zero once you pull the barrel off and put it back on mine have been repeatable. But I haven't really tested the Tika out that much. My TL3s and AI repeat perfectly. I'll let Jared Co and 260284 answer for themselves.

As for a Tikka bolt, it is doubtful you will find one to purchase. I had to buy a complete gun, take the bolt out and sell the remainder of the gun.
Click to expand...

Yeah I meant with removing and replacing the barrel. What can you generaly sell a basic, used, gun for sans bolt?
 
I took my switch barrel out to confirm dope out to 775 yards before my first match of the year this Saturday. I had the 6.5 barrel on and zero set for 100 yards. Center punched the 413 yard plate with two shots, the 8" plate at 635 with 3 shots, and put 3 on the 66% IPSC at 775. Swapped barrels, adjusted zero down 1.2 mils and left .2, and chrono'd a 30.8 gr RL16 load at 100. Took the Magneto off, loaded up 10 of my 31.1 RL16, 88gr ELDM load and shot three of corners of the 413 plate, 3 shots in the center of the 635 yard 10" plate, and put two in the water line on the 775 plate. Mirage was kicking in and I couldn't see the two on the 775 plate, so I held middle bottom and sent two more. The return to zero is dead on so far.
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Has anyone gone back to the factory CTR stock? With my can clearing soon I am going to convert me 260 into a light(ish) hunting rifle. I will be selling my KRG bravo and replacing it with the factory with some paint. It seems like the easiest way to shed some pounds.

Also I will be putting my 3-18 Gen 2 razor , rings, and mountain Tactical base up for sale and replacing it with Talley one pieces and a Razor LHT.

This should put me @ 9# 11oz with with my direct thread Omega 300.
 
Wiscat said:
Has anyone gone back to the factory CTR stock? With my can clearing soon I am going to convert me 260 into a light(ish) hunting rifle. I will be selling my KRG bravo and replacing it with the factory with some paint. It seems like the easiest way to shed some pounds.

Also I will be putting my 3-18 Gen 2 razor , rings, and mountain Tactical base up for sale and replacing it with Talley one pieces and a Razor LHT.

This should put me @ 9# 11oz with with my direct thread Omega 300.
Click to expand...
I stayed in my T3X lite stock. Painted it and added a limbsaver pad. The cost per ounce to refuce stock weight with an aftermarket stock is $$$. For my hunting rig I just don’t see the value in my situation. For my money the Tikka stocks are light, durable and take paint very well. Yes they feel cheap but the deer won’t know the difference.

89CE90B9-D678-4D3E-9735-432890025A8B.jpeg
 
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Wiscat said:
Has anyone gone back to the factory CTR stock? With my can clearing soon I am going to convert me 260 into a light(ish) hunting rifle. I will be selling my KRG bravo and replacing it with the factory with some paint. It seems like the easiest way to shed some pounds.

Also I will be putting my 3-18 Gen 2 razor , rings, and mountain Tactical base up for sale and replacing it with Talley one pieces and a Razor LHT.

This should put me @ 9# 11oz with with my direct thread Omega 300.
Click to expand...
I put my CTR action/barrel into a Bravo and then moved my 308 lite ss into my CTR. It worked well this year, I'm pretty damn comfortable behind the CTR as long as the comb is raised (I'm sort of tall), which i did with a triad tactical pouch and it worked well.

That being said - I want to lighten up the 308 and make it a mountain rifle, so I'm putting a lighter scope on it and dropping it back into the stock t3x lite stock. Even though I dont love the ergos, it will be fine for shots 400ish and less, which is the idea for that gun. I am then going to use that CTR stock to build a 7mm SAUM for long distance hunting, especially elk. It should save me about 2-3 lbs over a Bravo and although I like the Bravo better, for hunting the CTR is a lot easier to work with. Its not only lighter but its more maneuverable, fits better strapped to my bag, etc.
 
reubenski said:
Isn't the Bravo 2.5lbs? Pretty sure I weighed mine. How much lighter is the CTR stock that using it would save over a 1 lb?
Click to expand...
They say it's 2.9 lbs on the website, but mine weighed more once it was setup... 3 and some change. The CTR saved me around a lb. To your point not all of that 2-3 lbs will from the stock.

When I take them all apart I'll weigh them again.
 
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reubenski said:
I put up a super boring 270 sans bolt for $250. It sold immediately. I probably couldve charged more. I'd look for a beater Rifle for $400 to canabilize
Click to expand...

Are the long and short action bolts a different length? For example, could I use a 30-06 bolt on a 6.5?

Wiscat said:
Has anyone gone back to the factory CTR stock? With my can clearing soon I am going to convert me 260 into a light(ish) hunting rifle. I will be selling my KRG bravo and replacing it with the factory with some paint. It seems like the easiest way to shed some pounds.

Also I will be putting my 3-18 Gen 2 razor , rings, and mountain Tactical base up for sale and replacing it with Talley one pieces and a Razor LHT.

This should put me @ 9# 11oz with with my direct thread Omega 300.
Click to expand...

Man, with how light the Bravo is, I think Id just take the weight if the lite stock is anything like what comes on the T1x...
 
Boltyboi said:
Are the long and short action bolts a different length? For example, could I use a 30-06 bolt on a 6.5?



Man, with how light the Bravo is, I think Id just take the weight if the lite stock is anything like what comes on the T1x...
Click to expand...
The difference is just the bolt stop. You can source a new one from a few places. No difference in bolt or action. That being said, Tikkas aren't super popular in LA because not as many aftermarket stocks/chassis work with them and the COAL isn't as long. If you were gonna build a 300WSM and wanted to load that long, that would be utilization that is more popular. Barrel swapping between SA and LA would necessitate a different inlet because of magazine length, so I think that's pretty much defeating the purpose.

Tons of people here know way more than me though, so please correct this post if anyone sees anything wrong.

The CTR is a way nicer stock than the normal t3x lite. Not Bravo nice, but it won't hold you back on a hunting rig (IMO).
 
R_Swanson said:
words
Click to expand...
Good to know. I don't have any intention of building an LA gun, but I have seen a fair number of 270s and other randum hunting rifle types used. Might get a .223 varmint, yank a bolt out of a 270 or whatever and do the swappy swappy buisness.

edit: Its amusing that the T1x is a .22lr in a long action footprint receiver.
 
Saves about a pound from the Bravo. Considering my normal hunting rifle is a Superlite an extra pound is a lot.
 
DasNightmare said:
What bore guide do you guys use? Specifically for a 6.5 CM Tikka Tac A1. Does any Tikka T3/T3x compatible bore guide work on a Tikka Tac?

People keep recommending some guy named Lucas who apparently hasn't been selling guides since 2018. The other common recommendations like Possum Hollow or Sinclair don't even list a 6.5 Creedmoor for Tikkas. I might just run to Cabelas and grab the universal Tipton boreguide and hope it fits.
Click to expand...
I just bought a possum hollow for my 6.5 CTR. It's the #13
 
thorium said:
its about 2 lbs for a stock Tikka lite style stock and 3 lbs for a KRG bravo
Click to expand...
Just weighed it. 27.9 oz for a stock Tikka Lite stock... 1.75 lbs.

When I weighed my Bravo I swear it was easily over 3 lbs. Mine has tool-less buttpad height adjustment and 2 shims in it. Someone in this thread must have one laying around to measure.
 
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R_Swanson said:
Just weighed it. 27.9 oz for a stock Tikka Lite stock... 1.75 lbs.

When I weighed my Bravo I swear it was easily over 3 lbs. Mine has tool-less buttpad height adjustment and 2 shims in it. Someone in this thread must have one laying around to measure.
Click to expand...

I just put together a tikka bravo in the past couple weeks and weighed. It was within an ounce of 3 lb, only accessory I had added before weighing was the polymer picatinny rail. So the 2.9 lbs is accurate with no accessories, no LOP spacers, etc. added.
 
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My Bravo is in the box. I will weigh both when I get home. CTR stock +bottom metal VS Bravo.
 
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75368209-2729-4F04-A2E9-8AC92FE91A5E.jpeg
Factory stock with a paint job. Talley LW rings and a place holder scope for load work ups. Most likely will end up with a LHT.
 
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mavrick10_2000 said:
Too Shiny Needs bead blast and/or Cerakote on the BBL. Looking good though on the - "Mini TRG"


What .25 cal pills are you running in that Dustin?
Click to expand...

131 Blackjack Ace. @2900-2950

I gotta get the barrel engraved and I’m gonna coat it. I’m waiting on another 7mm blank from bartlein and once it’s done I’ll take them both for engraving and coating.
 
reubenski said:
Science... that's why....

I figured it would be about a pound difference

Next..clouds! How do they work?!!
Click to expand...
Haha. Not to be a dick, but didn't you think a Bravo weighed 2.5lbs at the beginning of this conversation?
 
CaptNemo said:
Which stock fits you better ?
There's your answer.
Click to expand...

It’s hard question. Because most of my life shooting a rifle has involved mounting them like a shotgun. Getting down behind this the chassis definitely has its benefits.
 
Wiscat said:
Let the masses speak. Keep the painted factory stock above or run the bravo.
View attachment 7320370
Click to expand...

What’s more important to you?

Fit, comfort, weight, accuracy, looks?

Accuracy depends on fit.
If bench or prone shooting at the range weight is negligible but comfort isn’t
If hunting on the move I would sacrifice comfort and prioritize weight.
 
R_Swanson said:
The difference is just the bolt stop. You can source a new one from a few places. No difference in bolt or action. That being said, Tikkas aren't super popular in LA because not as many aftermarket stocks/chassis work with them and the COAL isn't as long. If you were gonna build a 300WSM and wanted to load that long, that would be utilization that is more popular. Barrel swapping between SA and LA would necessitate a different inlet because of magazine length, so I think that's pretty much defeating the purpose.

Tons of people here know way more than me though, so please correct this post if anyone sees anything wrong.

The CTR is a way nicer stock than the normal t3x lite. Not Bravo nice, but it won't hold you back on a hunting rig (IMO).
Click to expand...

If you are using the factory plastic bottom "metal", the only difference between a LA and SA caliber is the internal parts of the magazine, all the factory plastic mags are the same length. I built a 22BR/6.5 Creed switch barrel off a 270 T3 Lite that I bought for less than $400 new. I haven't tried my 223 bolt in any of my other two actions, but I suppose it would work.
 
260284 said:
If you are using the factory plastic bottom "metal", the only difference between a LA and SA caliber is the internal parts of the magazine, all the factory plastic mags are the same length. I built a 22BR/6.5 Creed switch barrel off a 270 T3 Lite that I bought for less than $400 new. I haven't tried my 223 bolt in any of my other two actions, but I suppose it would work.
Click to expand...
I haven't swapped from LA to SA or vice versa... But I researched it because I almost did (found a different donor gun). I'm fairly sure they shorten the throw in the SA via the bolt stop. Maybe it's not a necessary mod? I was going to do it.

tikkaperformance.com

Tikka T3/T3x Bolt Stop - Mountain Tactical Company

Specifications:
tikkaperformance.com tikkaperformance.com
 
R_Swanson said:
I haven't swapped from LA to SA or vice versa... But I researched it because I almost did (found a different donor gun). I'm fairly sure they shorten the throw in the SA via the bolt stop. Maybe it's not a necessary mod? I was going to do it.

tikkaperformance.com

Tikka T3/T3x Bolt Stop - Mountain Tactical Company

Specifications:
tikkaperformance.com tikkaperformance.com
Click to expand...

I used this one for my 270 action, put it in the short throw for 22BR. When I added a 6.5 Creedmoor barrel, I had to adjust it to the middle position to pick up the round out of the AICS magazine. The middle position is the same as the CTR bolt stop.

highvelocityhuntingaustralia.com.au

Tikka Bolt Stop Adjustable | HVHA

Our adjustable Tikka Bolt Stops fit both the Tikka T3 and Tikka T3x, our Bolt Stops allow loading of cartridges with long Case overall lengths
highvelocityhuntingaustralia.com.au highvelocityhuntingaustralia.com.au
 
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