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Tikka T3 Thread

damn, im doing this. what type of sponge did u use?

Just did my first camo paint job I've ever attempted this weekend. Painted KRG Bravo for my in progress Tikka build.
Considering this was my first time and I don't consider myself good with this kind of thing, I'm very happy with the result I got with the sponge method.

Basically I copied the method in this 3 minute YouTube video:


I used these sponges ($5 on amazon):
Set your amazon smile (donation program) to 2nd amendment foundation.

Used it with some camo spray paint, brown/olive/tan, spraying it onto some tin foil then dipping the sponge in.
The base color of my KRG Bravo was FDE.
 

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Tikka T3x RoughTech Stock Details

Picked up my Tikka T3x Roughtech model today.

Here's a photo of the inside of the stock.

The weight is 1 lb 15 oz.

I purchased the Roughtech model to get the new D18 barreled action with fluted barrel/bolt to put into a KRG Bravo, so I'll be selling the Roughtech stock later.
 

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Anyone having rust issues with the blued barrels? Worth upgrading to stainless or just save the cash for rebarrel?

saw another forum talking about rough finish on the blued barrels and quick corrosion
 
Anyone having rust issues with the blued barrels? Worth upgrading to stainless or just save the cash for rebarrel?

saw another forum talking about rough finish on the blued barrels and quick corrosion
I haven't seen it and I live on the Texas Gulf Coast. I do take the 45 seconds to quickly wipe it down with rem lube after I use it. I do nothing for the bore. No issues there.
 
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Not a T3 but it's predecessor the M595. 17 Rem & 223.
 

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Roughtech model: Got a question on fluting and how close it comes to muzzle.
photo attached
The model I purchased was JRTXRT316
 

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Tikka T3x RoughTech Stock Details

Picked up my Tikka T3x Roughtech model today.

Here's a photo of the inside of the stock.

The weight is 1 lb 15 oz.

I purchased the Roughtech model to get the new D18 barreled action with fluted barrel/bolt to put into a KRG Bravo, so I'll be selling the Roughtech stock later.

Looks like the inside of a CTR stock.
 
Make sense. This is the only Tikka I've handled. Bottom metal is integral to the little "mini chassis" in the Roughtech stock.
To my knowledge Tikka hasn't made a new mini chassis bottom plastic/metal. It's not down as a new feature and im sure they'd shout about it too - changing something like that costs money and the point of Tikka is quality but lower cost by having modular/interchangeable design. So id take a closer look - it's still a standard T3x stock, just with the Roughtech finish. Trigger guard will come out, might be a snug fit.
 
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Anyone having rust issues with the blued barrels? Worth upgrading to stainless or just save the cash for rebarrel?

saw another forum talking about rough finish on the blued barrels and quick corrosion

I've not had issues.
I live in a place that's basically perfect conditions for rust, I managed to get a small amount on the first stainless Tikka I bought.
Provided I wipe the outside of the rifle with oil and keep the humidity controlled in my gun safe I've not had any issues.

My Tikka T1x is all blued, the finish is nice, much nicer than the finish on the 2 Remingtons I have.
 
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Got the factory rail off today. It took about 5-7 minutes with a heat gun at 800 degrees. A little wiggling with some vise grips and it came right up.
View attachment 7301531

I’m not sure how to get the residue off. Gonna have to figure it out before the new Area 419 20 MOA rail shows up next week.
000 or 0000 steel wool. It won't scratch
 
To my knowledge Tikka hasn't made a new mini chassis bottom plastic/metal. It's not down as a new feature and im sure they'd shout about it too - changing something like that costs money and the point of Tikka is quality but lower cost by having modular/interchangeable design. So id take a closer look - it's still a standard T3x stock, just with the Roughtech finish. Trigger guard will come out, might be a snug fit.

You're correct, trigger guard comes out with more force (my bad).
Everything inside being plastic, and the weight being nearly identical to "standard" Tikka stocks, I assume the only real difference is the exterior texture/look.
 
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Tikka Roughtech Barreled Action Weights
My measurements for model JRTXRT316 (308 22.4" barrel).

Full Gun (doesn't included the muzzle brake they include, it didn't come installed on the rifle):
6 lb 10 oz

Barreled Action Weight (includes trigger group, not bolt assembly):
3 lb, 15 oz

Fluted Bolt Assembly:
11 oz

Included Muzzle Brake:
2.6 oz
 
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Tikka D18 Profile Fluted Barrel Dimensions
The Roughtech, Veil Wideland, and Veil Alpine models released this year include this new-for-Tikka fluted barrel contour they titled "D18 profile."
Here's some rough measurements of the barrel width every 2 inches.
Measured on JRTXRT316 (308, 22.4" barrel) with calipers, but I didn't take the time to do it perfect.

(from chamber)
How far down barrel -- Width
2" -- 1.1385"
4" -- 1.0175"
6" -- 0.8980"
8" -- 0.7885"
9.5" -- 0.7315" (this is about where the fluting starts)
12" -- 0.6845"
14" -- 0.6805"
16" -- 0.6785"
18" -- 0.6860"
20" -- 0.6785"
21.5" -- 0.7345" (this is about where muzzle threads begin, flutes stop around 21")
 
Putting on a mountain tac 20moa rail this weekend.. still haven't gotten it. Do these two pins have to come out to install?
 
Do they unthread? Are they metal? You’ll need to remove them. The mountain tac rail will have a lug that fits in the big hole.
I'd assume they unthread. I'll give them a try with a small pair of vice grips tomorrow. Look like they are steel from what I can tell
 
What was the rifle originally? CTR? I’ve not seen these pins before.
The rifle is a t3x ctr 6.5 24"
Everywhere I read nobody ever said anything about these pins. No lug either. No cutout in the rail for it. Rifle is brand new
20200429_194533.jpg
 
My 20" 308 CTR had these under the rail as well, they just pulled straight out of the action on mine.
 
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Just did the same thing with my new CTR the other day, the pins are a light press fit and mine were glued in with some sort of thread locker. Apply heat (little propane torch works best, but a soldering iron will work too - just take longer) till you see a little puff of smoke (that's the thread locker releasing) and they'll pull right out with a pair of vice grips.
 
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My new to me T3x 7 Rem Mag. So far basically factory except for a limbsaver and a vertical grip. I decided to sponge paint it. Just waiting on my rings to show up and waiting to find a 6x SWFA.
CCE1E5A6-76DD-4F17-8835-AF883483F90A.jpeg
 
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Ok makes sense.. should pull straight out then like JG964 said.
Thanks for the help fellas
Those pins for the rail are recoil lugs basically.

If anybody wants to sell their factory 0moa rail for a reasonable price feel free to pm me.
 
I just love my 260rem.
308win Palma case, neck down to 260rem, neck turned.
123gr Lapua Scenar, N150 38,6gr.
Awesome caliber and rifle.
View attachment 7313184

I was going to go that route if I stayed with 260 when I rebarreled my CTR. Figured the 308 Palma brass would have better primer pocket life. Ended up going with the 6.5 Creedmoor and am using the Peterson srp brass. No regrets at all. Easier to buy some quality factory ammo if needed.

Peterson has srp 260 brass now.
 
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Roughtech D18 profile Barreled Action Chop Down:

Bought Roughtech model for project, came as 22.4" fluted barrel .308.

I had it chopped down to 18" by Class 3 Machining.
Results:
- Flutes come to within a couple inches of muzzle, so new muzzle ends up well into the fluting
- At 18" the narrowest width (in the "valleys" of the flutes) was 0.601"
- Therefore needed to be threaded 1/2 x 28 instead of the 5/8 it comes with

No big deal for me since I will be using YHM Mini Brake to interface with their Kurz Kit suppressor mount, and per Hansohn Brothers, "the mini brakes are bored .350 and mini flash hiders are bored 9mm" for both their 5/8x24 and 1/2x28 models.
 
How are you guys dealing with bedding the Tikka action lug into a stock? Skim bed the lug, skim bed the lug recess only, leave it bare, etc?

Anyone specifically have experience with bedding into a KRG chassis and found any gotchas? I'm going to skim bed my Tikka into a KRG soon and thought I'd ask (first time bedding a chassis, but not a stock).
 
How are you guys dealing with bedding the Tikka action lug into a stock? Skim bed the lug, skim bed the lug recess only, leave it bare, etc?

Anyone specifically have experience with bedding into a KRG chassis and found any gotchas? I'm going to skim bed my Tikka into a KRG soon and thought I'd ask (first time bedding a chassis, but not a stock).

I used a KRG X-Ray all last year and there is no reason to bed it. Solid aluminum backbone that is machined for the Tikka action.
 
How are you guys dealing with bedding the Tikka action lug into a stock? Skim bed the lug, skim bed the lug recess only, leave it bare, etc?

Anyone specifically have experience with bedding into a KRG chassis and found any gotchas? I'm going to skim bed my Tikka into a KRG soon and thought I'd ask (first time bedding a chassis, but not a stock).
Part of the point of a chassis is the not bedding part.
 
I'm aware that many people don't bed chassis' to actions. Perhaps you should be aware that many also do. Rather than hash out that debate yet again and get nowhere, let's just assume it's not the end of the word if I skim bed things. If nothing improves or if I ruin my KRG it's cool I'll just buy another, right?

So... back to what those who are bedding Tikkas due with the recoil lug......
 
I'm aware that many people don't bed chassis' to actions. Perhaps you should be aware that many also do. Rather than hash out that debate yet again and get nowhere, let's just assume it's not the end of the word if I skim bed things. If nothing improves or if I ruin my KRG it's cool I'll just buy another, right?

So... back to what those who are bedding Tikkas due with the recoil lug......
@Massoud?
 
I'm aware that many people don't bed chassis' to actions. Perhaps you should be aware that many also do. Rather than hash out that debate yet again and get nowhere, let's just assume it's not the end of the word if I skim bed things. If nothing improves or if I ruin my KRG it's cool I'll just buy another, right?

So... back to what those who are bedding Tikkas due with the recoil lug......
The lug is pressed into the chassis... so bedding the lug is useless, and youre likely to damage it more from trying to remove it from the backbone. Yes you could skim bed the action into the backbone, scuff up the aluminium, dremel it/drill it for the bedding to hold onto, but unless you're the best shooter in the world you're not likely to notice any difference or improvement, and if you're not amazing at bedding a rifle you could actually worsen accuracy.
 
Roughtech D18 profile Barreled Action Chop Down:

Bought Roughtech model for project, came as 22.4" fluted barrel .308.

I had it chopped down to 18" by Class 3 Machining.
Results:
- Flutes come to within a couple inches of muzzle, so new muzzle ends up well into the fluting
- At 18" the narrowest width (in the "valleys" of the flutes) was 0.601"
- Therefore needed to be threaded 1/2 x 28 instead of the 5/8 it comes with

No big deal for me since I will be using YHM Mini Brake to interface with their Kurz Kit suppressor mount, and per Hansohn Brothers, "the mini brakes are bored .350 and mini flash hiders are bored 9mm" for both their 5/8x24 and 1/2x28 models.

What was the weight after you chopped the end off?