Tikka T3 Thread

CaptNemo

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Recently sold one of my "spr"esque ar uppers and optic, thinking of getting a 223 CTR for plinking or getting into 22lr. I love my CTR in 6.5 and a matching 223 would be dope, but would you guys spring for something cheaper at this point, like a Ruger American Ranch? Kind of a silly question in a Tikka thread...but idk!

Cycle the bolt on the Ruger.
 

reubenski

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Recently sold one of my "spr"esque ar uppers and optic, thinking of getting a 223 CTR for plinking or getting into 22lr. I love my CTR in 6.5 and a matching 223 would be dope, but would you guys spring for something cheaper at this point, like a Ruger American Ranch? Kind of a silly question in a Tikka thread...but idk!
Just get a .223 bolt and barrel. I love shooting my same setup in but in the tiny and affordable .223. Suppressed of course.
20190826_193611~2.jpg
 

Welldone7.5

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135 Grain Berger Classic Hunter moving along at 3,300 FPS
71 grains H1000 compressed
 

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Raffy

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SHOT 2020 said there was going to be a 6.5 prc, but that was before the 'rona. I wonder if it got scrapped or if its still coming?
 

Blain Cooper

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Krazy_jim

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patriotnation

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I am changing the barrel on my Tikka CTR so I read about how hard it is. It is 3 years old T3x , after 4 attempts I succeeded today finally. I soaked it in Kroil over a week, tried brown sugar, then heat with a heat gun to the action, then ice pack on barrel and heat action while using a pipe wrench(eek) on the barrel and it took every ounce of my energy to break it free as I did not have a pipe to add to the wrench handle. Holy crap that was on there. I remember reading about someone's theory of the factory putting the barrel on while the action is hot, I bet they did with mine because that sucker was on there.
 

louu

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I am changing the barrel on my Tikka CTR so I read about how hard it is. It is 3 years old T3x , after 4 attempts I succeeded today finally. I soaked it in Kroil over a week, tried brown sugar, then heat with a heat gun to the action, then ice pack on barrel and heat action while using a pipe wrench(eek) on the barrel and it took every ounce of my energy to break it free as I did not have a pipe to add to the wrench handle. Holy crap that was on there. I remember reading about someone's theory of the factory putting the barrel on while the action is hot, I bet they did with mine because that sucker was on there.
What did you use to hold the action.
 

lou400a

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I am changing the barrel on my Tikka CTR so I read about how hard it is. It is 3 years old T3x , after 4 attempts I succeeded today finally. I soaked it in Kroil over a week, tried brown sugar, then heat with a heat gun to the action, then ice pack on barrel and heat action while using a pipe wrench(eek) on the barrel and it took every ounce of my energy to break it free as I did not have a pipe to add to the wrench handle. Holy crap that was on there. I remember reading about someone's theory of the factory putting the barrel on while the action is hot, I bet they did with mine because that sucker was on there.
I've just took mine off tonight. Its a stainless T3 270 wsm. I've mixed acetone and kroil and let it soak for about five days reapplying daily. Used older vice with wooden block inserts, lead spacers and rosin. Wrapped the action and barrel with paper, torqued it down, re torqued it and on second whack from dead-blow hammer it came loose. I was pleasantly surprised
 

Ndbowhunter

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Bs on shock vs torque.

Not saying the hammer doesn’t work. It’s just applying more torque then the method that doesn’t work.

Don’t bind up threads. Either by clamping over them, or not applying 90 of force.
 
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LeftyJason

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    Bs on shock vs torque.

    Not saying the hammer doesn’t work. It’s just applying more torque then the method that doesn’t work.

    Don’t bind up threads. Either by clamping over them, or not applying 90 of force.
    By that I meant that I have seen lots more success in this thread and others over the years when they use a dead blow vs other methods of slow torque. I have read every post of this thread. There are many examples where people said they got it off easier with a dead blow. There are also examples where gunsmiths tried to wrench it off and decided to cut a groove. Dead blow on a wrench is still torque. It's just a different type. It is a shock type torque vs a slow torque. Difference between a torque wrench vs air impact wrenches. Impact type torque devices exist for a reason.
     

    reubenski

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    What kind of velocity can I reasonably expect to get out of a factory 24" 6.5mm CTR barrel reloading with 140gr ELDM?
    I got 2800 with StaBall with that exact setup plus a suppressor. Hornady factory brass and the ELD-MS seated to 2.905 coal. Without high pressure. I think with a faster stick powder like 4350 you'll pressure out first. Id recommend R16, R23, StaBall, 4831, R26 with the 140 seated closer to the lands than factory ammo. Factory Hornady 140 had a 110ish thou jump iirc.
     

    Ndbowhunter

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    Deam, that is looking good sir.

    Haha yeah I was pretty stoked!

    My family came from Tornio river valley area. Except for my grandma Heikkenen who was from Oulu.

    Both parents learned Finn before English.

    Kinda funny to go into LRI shop because a fair of my childhood either working or waiting for dad in a tool and die shop run by a family of Finnish immigrant. That smell brought instant memories.

    The bolt will be fed lapua 6br 105 ammo exclusively with the .48 bolt face. Most times 80gr eld-m with factory 20” at 2850.

    We call the rifle Rottutauti. Rutter for short. Deer, yotes, speed goats,sage rats, tree rats, turkeys.. Killing machine.
     
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    viking78

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    I think you mean Heikkinen, that is quite common name in Finland.
    Tornio is a border city in Finland, it´s nearly a Sweden :)
    My grandmother brother lived in Tornio, so i have been there few times.
    And i do rember those trips to Sweden, sugar and butter was the souveniers of those trips at 80´ties :D
     

    Ndbowhunter

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    Yeah spelling error. My best friend is a Heikkinen and I screw it up all the time.

    The sisu gene still holds

    Most of the family records got burned when the Germans torched tornio

    From what I recall Tornio sits just up from where the river enters the Gulf of Bothnia

    Lifetime goal is to take a sauna after a ride on the lainelauta on the Bothnia some fall.


    Back to tikka’s. 24E9F5FC-6B8D-46E9-9F1A-B9365B99585A.jpegThe extractor on the LRI edition is a lot longer then the factory one
     
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    KitShickers

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    I got 2800 with StaBall with that exact setup plus a suppressor. Hornady factory brass and the ELD-MS seated to 2.905 coal. Without high pressure. I think with a faster stick powder like 4350 you'll pressure out first. Id recommend R16, R23, StaBall, 4831, R26 with the 140 seated closer to the lands than factory ammo. Factory Hornady 140 had a 110ish thou jump iirc.

    Great info. I appreciate it. And I just picked up 3lb of rl16 yesterday.
     

    Wiscat

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    Anyone know if it’s possible to buy an extra comb piece for a CTR stock? I want to put one on my t3x lite.
    I think they are available but super expensive like every Tikka aftermarket factory part. Like the fact that you can buy an aftermarket bolt handle for what the little ball and set screw on the CTR costs. These are sold out but I'm guessing that's standard pricing. https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/s585t391
     

    khuber84

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    Great info. I appreciate it. And I just picked up 3lb of rl16 yesterday.
    I've had 140 elite hunters over 2930 w/ a lightly compressed load of rl26 in Hornady brass. Lapua did 2900 with a lil less powder. Rl26 can be hard to find but it does magical things in these little cases with heavy bullets.
     
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    holden

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    Are the MDt poly-steel 308 mags running well in KRG W3 chassis w/ Tikka CTR 6.5cm? Best 5 round mag in aforementioned setup?
     

    tbx

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    It's starting to look a lot like Christmas! Just received the Mesa Precision Arms - Altitude stock (26.74 oz) and Proof CF Pre-fit barrel chambered in 6.5 PRC (24" 1/7.5). Just waiting on @LongRifles Inc. to put magnum bolts on sale.. Maybe I'll post up my .308 bolt for sale afterwards!
     

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    DeadZeppelin

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    Wiscat

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    Took my CTR 260 out calling coyotes in the Northwoods this weekend. No luck.(we had wolves howling all around each night which makes coyote pretty scarce). Probably the last adventure with the factory stock. I’m going back to a KRG bravo.D87E5730-6DE9-4936-9BB8-9ABE840727CA.jpeg
     

    5RWill

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    It’s real. First one goes to me!

    LRI tikka bolt.

    Woot woot!
    Back to tikka’s. The extractor on the LRI edition is a lot longer then the factory one

    Did Chad hint as to when they will go on the sight?

    It's starting to look a lot like Christmas! Just received the Mesa Precision Arms - Altitude stock (26.74 oz) and Proof CF Pre-fit barrel chambered in 6.5 PRC (24" 1/7.5). Just waiting on @LongRifles Inc. to put magnum bolts on sale.. Maybe I'll post up my .308 bolt for sale afterwards!

    Same. Currently having a hard time deciding on cartridge for our Tikka Build thought i was going to go 6cm but rethinking 6.5 SAUM. since i have all the components for it.
     
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    bassmaster07

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    Ok guys, who here as actually done the Tikka switch barrel with shouldered barrels. Looking for feed back on how repeatable it really is and how much of an issue keeping track of 2 or more zeros are?

    Current plan would be to swap between a 6.5 creed and .223. Really hoping LRI comes through with some reasonable .223 bolts because those things are impossible to find.

    Main reason is that getting into a .223 as a separate rifle is going to be way more than a new barrel and bolt.
     
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    260284

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    T3 vs T3x actions are the same metal make up

    T3 vs T3x, recoil lug is bigger, metal bolt shroud, different tapped wholes for a picatinny rail, better reinforced stock and recoil pad.

    Barrel/action is the same profile size, but it just different metal material between the blued/SS.

    you can prevent rust by taking care of the metal. I love to practice shooting in the weather (rain/snow) but I always make sure that I wipe it down with a gun oil rag before I store it back into the safe, if it got watered on.

    If you find a screamin deal on a T3 I wouldnt hesitate buying that over a full priced T3x. I look on Asmslist all the time for T3 because I know im going to change things out on it and ill take a good deal any day.

    I have T3 and T3x, the recoil lugs are the same size, the T3 were aluminum and the T3x are mild steel. If you are shooting a hard recoiling caliber, then replace it with a good stainless lug. Never bent the aluminum lug with a 260. Aftermarket chassis and stocks usually come with stainless or steel lugs.
     

    260284

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    Looking for a mag for a CTR bottom for a 25SST. Will a std CTR mag work with just bending the feed lips out a bit?
    Don't want a 10rd sticking way out the bottom.

    I have seen a guy run 6.5 SAUM in a CTR mag. He was able to get 5 or 6 rounds in it.
     
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    260284

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    Recently sold one of my "spr"esque ar uppers and optic, thinking of getting a 223 CTR for plinking or getting into 22lr. I love my CTR in 6.5 and a matching 223 would be dope, but would you guys spring for something cheaper at this point, like a Ruger American Ranch? Kind of a silly question in a Tikka thread...but idk!

    Get the 223 Varmint if you want a little cheaper than a CTR.
     
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