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Tikka T3 Thread

didn’t realize how green the krg stock is... definitely not an od green.
Pictures on their site doesn’t make it look like that.
The T3 in a green Bravo is and will always be the frugal man's Sako TRG. ;)
This does not make it bad, it makes it frikkin' awesome.

Also, the images of the green Bravo on the KRG website are pretty representative. Not mindlessly Instagram filter like overblown or wannabe-tactical grittified but I would argue more correct than usual on my color calibrated monitor.
 
1DC934BF-6715-4B93-9716-CB652C407A21.jpeg

Tikka T3X 300wm
Bartlein 28” 1/9
McMillan A5
 
I like my left hand frugal man's Sako TRG ;)

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I 3D printed a filler plug for the RH bolt cutout, it just pushes into the cutout in the backbone and sits down into the cutout in the plastic shell. The photo below is a first prototype, I haven't had a chance to print a final version yet but you get the idea. I've uploaded the final version to Thingiverse if anyone wants to print their own: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4739508

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I like my left hand frugal man's Sako TRG ;)

View attachment 7539137

View attachment 7539142

I 3D printed a filler plug for the RH bolt cutout, it just pushes into the cutout in the backbone and sits down into the cutout in the plastic shell. The photo below is a first prototype, I haven't had a chance to print a final version yet but you get the idea. I've uploaded the final version to Thingiverse if anyone wants to print their own: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4739508

View attachment 7539140

View attachment 7539139
Shittt... I'd buy one of these if I end up getting a bravo and doing the LH conversion.

It's kind of strange that it would be that simple to convert one to a left hand and that there is already enough clearance. You would think krg would just offer it as an option and charge a little more...
 
As mentioned already, get the Tikka inlet chassis. Converting to Left Hand is easy.

You need to create a bolt handle cutout on the left side. You can use a round file, a Dremel, or an end mill cutting bit. You then need (should, maybe not a need) to fill in the gap on the right side in the aluminum backbone part of the chassis so that junk doesn’t get down in there in the trigger.

I used an end mill bit in my drill press, chucked up the Bravo in a table vise to make the cutout. I filled the opposing gap with Bondo, and when dry sanded and filed it to desired shape. Painted these areas with Brownells Alumhyde.
Do you have a picture of the rh side after bondo and paint?
 
Do you have a picture of the rh side after bondo and paint?
No sorry I sold that particular stock/chassis. I used steel putty to fill most of the old notch, then some fine automotive filler putty, sanded it and I had some black cerakote to cover the backbone and was cerakoting the stock tan too.
 
Feel free to use 40 inch-pounds if you want, but the factory instructions specify 22 inch-pounds (2.5 Nm) .

You might also think about purple Loctite instead of Blue considering the thread size.
Ramblr72 is correct - check page 115 of the manual (117 of the .pdf page count)
 
Posted this in the shorty thread but deserves to be here too - 18' 6BR - 87gr Vmax @ 2850fps and 105gr Bergers @ 2690fps. 8.2lb as pictured

View attachment 7539673
How’s the 6br run and cycle? Are you using 22 250 mags or ? Interested as I’ve been trying to find info about rebarreling to a 6br and any issues with reliability and not finding much info.
 
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Hi everyone-
So I spent some money I didn't have on a new Tikka T3X UPR .308 ... Unlike years ago when I could waste money and methodically build up stuff, buying piece by piece etc. I really liked the idea of having a pretty good+ (at least, certainly, for my purposes) rifle right out of the box.
I haven't shot it yet ... when I got it home last week I was busy, only had time to wipe it down with RemOil wipes and put it away. When I got it out the other day, to mount a scope, I notice it has a gouge/chip/whatever you want to call it, a gouge out of the barrel.
I am just screwed, it seems, right? Tikka's website doesn't even have Contact info ... If you try to contact them or look for service, it says to contact your 'Distributor' - which I take to be Beretta USA for us in the States? And then it says how the Customer's Responsibility is to make sure nothing is wrong out of the box. I mean, right, I get it. It's not the first time I've bought a firearm before. But, this is crazy Covid times... the gunshop basically wants you to fill out the paperwork, process the sale, and bounce. I opened the box, saw it was wrapped up in the nice fancy Plastic-wrap, and it looked fine. Now I see I am screwed... nothing they will do, right? And there's nothing to be done short of total refinishing or a new barrel ? (neither of which I am going to pay for on a brand-new, ~$1,500 rifle I literally haven't even shot yet.)
And finally- this is something that won't affect the actual functionality, right? I don't have a pic this second, I will try later- it's not HUGE, but it's looking like a spot where the finish is totally removed and steel is visible underneath. (Probably located at a distance about 1/4 length of the barrel from the muzzle, underneath-ish) ... it just sucks, you are psyched to get a piece of Fine Finnish Firearm engineering, and it's got a chunk out of the barrel. And I sure didn't do it. I've barely touched the thing.

Edit- I tried to snap a quick pic or two. The first is just to show the actual rifle, the second are trying to show the gouge. It's pretty hard to see clearly in the pictures but it's definitely there, definitely can see it and feel it with your finger, looks like bare metal with the finish gouged/marred/etc. Sucks. It's not the biggest deal in the world, it just sucks when it's literally brand new, a week-or-two from picking up etc. Thanks again
 

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That sucks.Some fucker at the shop probably dinged it whilst showing it to someone else.
Paint it.
Won't affect the performance of your rifle.
Once you've launched some pills down range and see how nice it shoots, it will be fine.
What scope is that on board?
 
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Ok thanks very much. It occurred to me it was *possibly* the shop but I really doubt it - it's a senior citizen and his wife. And he's not in very good physical condition- from what he said, he just opens the boxes, confirms the serial numbers, calls and says "your gun came in" and goes back to whatever he does. - Certainly POSSIBLE- I am the type of guy who thinks just about anything is possible... . but still sucks right?

I am probably gonna paint it then. To be honest I had considered doing a little bit of a half-aced spray-camo job. I have done them 2-3 times. I have a Remington 597 .22LR that I did - I have precisely ZERO or negative-integers worth of artistic ability ... my 597 came out, as someone put it , "like one of those colored-sand-bottles you make at the Beach for a souvenir " lol ... I did an 870 shotgun that actually wasn't so bad, and another didn't come out too bad either. I just didn't really think I'd be doing it to this ... I know it's not expensive to other people but to me, i FINALLY GOT A TIKKA!!!

The scope was pretty much all I could afford after the rifle. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50mm ... it's an American company (not American made but at least it's a start) and FFP / illuminated reticle, had pretty decent reviews. At low magnification it seems awesome. Gets a little hazy at high but I haven't really laid down with it and messed with the focus settings and parallax etc. I figured this rifle would last me a long time, so I could save and buy a real nice scope someday when I can afford it (A lot of Tikka guys seem to love Steiner, it seems like on Youtube.)

Anyway thanks again. Just sucks really.
 
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@Ser Arthur Dayne you may notice Tikka rifles with Steiner scopes because they're both distributed by Beretta - so it's possible it's a demo rifle in some cases from Beretta and they've put a Steiner scope on it because its something they also sell.
 
Can't find this info anywhere so I'm hoping someone here can clarify this for me...

I am replacing my factory barrel with a new bartlein and found a gun Smith near San Diego CA that has worked on tikka t3's in the past. This was no easy task within itself..

I however have a t3x tac a1. Are the receiver thread patterns the same as the t3s?? My contact has told me that if the thread pattern is metric he won't be able to do it but if it's the same as the t3s he can. Anyone have any insight as to the thread pattern on the tac a1s??
 
Can't find this info anywhere so I'm hoping someone here can clarify this for me...

I am replacing my factory barrel with a new bartlein and found a gun Smith near San Diego CA that has worked on tikka t3's in the past. This was no easy task within itself..

I however have a t3x tac a1. Are the receiver thread patterns the same as the t3s?? My contact has told me that if the thread pattern is metric he won't be able to do it but if it's the same as the t3s he can. Anyone have any insight as to the thread pattern on the tac a1s??
1"-16. Not metric.
 
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Athlon are nothing to snigger at.
Lots of happy boys and girls out there, that use them.
just don't expect much from the aussie importers.
long story short, contacted importers, sent images, mentioned repairs at "my" cost, stuffed around for months, finally (expensive post) mailed scope to them only to have them do diddly, phoned the boys in the US, mailed (very expensive again) scope to the US, they replace, can't send replacement directly to me so i am patiently waiting for importers shipment to arrive from US for importer to send me my replacement, coming close to a year since this started. aussie backup really leaves a lot to be desired. must question more before every buying new scope as to how shit is dealt with if shit goes sideways down the line. thats when i ended up buying the new strike eagle to replace the athlon when the drama with the local importer started. will not make the same mistake again when looking for a new scope in the future. guys at athlon in the US are fantastic, not so much the importers here, even though they tried. to say the least, the guys here were not honest with me to begin with. have emails to prove.
 
Can anyone second that? For a factory t3x tac a1? 1-16 ?
Its right. 1" - 16tpi All t3x actions are the same. Only difference is material, handedness, and bolt stop.

I got it from a search of this site. Thread is from 2013. Multiple people said it's right. Don't necro the thread.
 
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just don't expect much from the aussie importers.
long story short, contacted importers, sent images, mentioned repairs at "my" cost, stuffed around for months, finally (expensive post) mailed scope to them only to have them do diddly, phoned the boys in the US, mailed (very expensive again) scope to the US, they replace, can't send replacement directly to me so i am patiently waiting for importers shipment to arrive from US for importer to send me my replacement, coming close to a year since this started. aussie backup really leaves a lot to be desired. must question more before every buying new scope as to how shit is dealt with if shit goes sideways down the line. thats when i ended up buying the new strike eagle to replace the athlon when the drama with the local importer started. will not make the same mistake again when looking for a new scope in the future. guys at athlon in the US are fantastic, not so much the importers here, even though they tried. to say the least, the guys here were not honest with me to begin with. have emails to prove.
That sucks.
Retailers and manufacturers bleat about how times are hard.
Maybe if they fronted up with decent customer service.
They take your hard earned pingers fast enough.
Our local gun store is brilliant.They just make it right on the spot, and deal with any dramas themselves.
 
That sucks.
Retailers and manufacturers bleat about how times are hard.
Maybe if they fronted up with decent customer service.
They take your hard earned pingers fast enough.
Our local gun store is brilliant.They just make it right on the spot, and deal with any dramas themselves.

customer service started off fine as i wasn't in a hurry due to going in for shoulder surgery and the time after surgery that it took for me to get to a point where i could move with some comfort. what shit me is the lies the importers told me, i found out from athlon in the US that the importer here hasn't placed any orders, yet here tells me they're waiting on parts. yes emails to back everything up i say here. like i said, nearly a year since this started.
 
Can't find this info anywhere so I'm hoping someone here can clarify this for me...

I am replacing my factory barrel with a new bartlein and found a gun Smith near San Diego CA that has worked on tikka t3's in the past. This was no easy task within itself..

I however have a t3x tac a1. Are the receiver thread patterns the same as the t3s?? My contact has told me that if the thread pattern is metric he won't be able to do it but if it's the same as the t3s he can. Anyone have any insight as to the thread pattern on the tac a1s??

Shooter 71 aka shaen rifles is a boxing up of a rifle drive away. Bishop maybe? He does tikka stuff all the time. And he’s fast.

If LRI wasn’t at the bottom of the hill from me this box of parts would go that way.
 
Yup.
I've bought 2 Vortex Razor Gen II, and the Razor HD.
Pretty hard to knock the quality and warranty.
i wasn't prepared to go nuts on a scope for my hunter/trainer. my proposed future comp gun already has a PMII on it.
still recovering from shoulder surgery and no answer from doctors when i will be 100%, it didn't make sense to spend big on something i have barely had time to use or get use to. plus i can't pick up an 8kg rifle properly to practice with at present. yeah saying ammo and barrel life but still...
 
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Can anyone confirm the muzzle threads on the t3x roughtech being 5/8x24?
Edit this is a 308
 
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Hi everyone-
So I spent some money I didn't have on a new Tikka T3X UPR .308 ... Unlike years ago when I could waste money and methodically build up stuff, buying piece by piece etc. I really liked the idea of having a pretty good+ (at least, certainly, for my purposes) rifle right out of the box.
I haven't shot it yet ... when I got it home last week I was busy, only had time to wipe it down with RemOil wipes and put it away. When I got it out the other day, to mount a scope, I notice it has a gouge/chip/whatever you want to call it, a gouge out of the barrel.
I am just screwed, it seems, right? Tikka's website doesn't even have Contact info ... If you try to contact them or look for service, it says to contact your 'Distributor' - which I take to be Beretta USA for us in the States? And then it says how the Customer's Responsibility is to make sure nothing is wrong out of the box. I mean, right, I get it. It's not the first time I've bought a firearm before. But, this is crazy Covid times... the gunshop basically wants you to fill out the paperwork, process the sale, and bounce. I opened the box, saw it was wrapped up in the nice fancy Plastic-wrap, and it looked fine. Now I see I am screwed... nothing they will do, right? And there's nothing to be done short of total refinishing or a new barrel ? (neither of which I am going to pay for on a brand-new, ~$1,500 rifle I literally haven't even shot yet.)
And finally- this is something that won't affect the actual functionality, right? I don't have a pic this second, I will try later- it's not HUGE, but it's looking like a spot where the finish is totally removed and steel is visible underneath. (Probably located at a distance about 1/4 length of the barrel from the muzzle, underneath-ish) ... it just sucks, you are psyched to get a piece of Fine Finnish Firearm engineering, and it's got a chunk out of the barrel. And I sure didn't do it. I've barely touched the thing.

Edit- I tried to snap a quick pic or two. The first is just to show the actual rifle, the second are trying to show the gouge. It's pretty hard to see clearly in the pictures but it's definitely there, definitely can see it and feel it with your finger, looks like bare metal with the finish gouged/marred/etc. Sucks. It's not the biggest deal in the world, it just sucks when it's literally brand new, a week-or-two from picking up etc. Thanks again
Try this, or similar.
 
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T3x, with a 20” carbon barrel in 6.5 cm
Mcmillan game warden edge fill
Black cerakote
Bargain gemtech tracker from gander outdoors 60% sale.
Looks great. I’d like to try out the McMillan stock myself.
 
I have been looking for the new veil model in 300 win but cannot find one anywhere... for that matter I can't find any stainless tikkas anywhere. I have a upr in 6.5 but really want the veil in 300. It's crazy
 
Veil has the same profile barrel.
Thanks bud. Before I got my hands on the rifle I ordered the EGW soacecomp of the Tikka varmint but that was way to big. I went to the post office this morning and returned it and they said they are going to ship me the one for 5/8x24.
 
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I got my chassis cerakoted to match the scope and it looks F€¢<ING! Amazing!

I'm going to use these scope rings but I have to mill off the last three nubs on the picatinny rail to clear the zoom ring. The scope is just sitting in there for now, the ring caps are just loosely on there.
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My CTR got the GRS Bifrost treatment today. I was going to put the Elay trigger spring in, but the trigger mounting bolt did not want to come out. I heated it with a soldering iron for about 5 minutes and my 5mm allen key was flexing pretty good, so I just left it for now. BTW - I did not see a flat spring on it, I was expecting to see one. So the scope is just lightly fitted - my buddy is brining a torque driver to do it right and a hone too. So here's the Bifrost. I took a gamble on the green - some of the images online make it look like a bluish green that I did not want, but it's just what I hoped it would be.
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