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Tikka T3 Thread

Picked up a TAC A1, 6.5 Creedmoor last week and will start setting it up this week.

It looks like there is a MLok QD mount in the box. So that's the front sling attachment. Cannot figure out the rear sling? Has what looks like over-sized sling studs. Can't see a QD mount in the box. Want to have a QD at the rear, not whatever those over-size swivels are. How to?
 
^ Can someone post a pic of their QD cup mounted on the rear of their TAC A1? I've got it on but it doesn't seem to have the same feel of clicking in as on my other rifle. This is only the second QD mount I've ever used, so sorry if the question is a bit clueless.
 
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So I got new glass mounted up and I’m having brass hit the turret, what are my options? Only thing I can think of is going up with the rings.
 
Picked up a TAC A1, 6.5 Creedmoor last week and will start setting it up this week.

It looks like there is a MLok QD mount in the box. So that's the front sling attachment. Cannot figure out the rear sling? Has what looks like over-sized sling studs. Can't see a QD mount in the box. Want to have a QD at the rear, not whatever those over-size swivels are. How to?
There should be a hole in the chassis stock that functions as a qd socket and one is in that protruding thing near the action across from the safety
 
Will it be sold in the states?
Looks like it will. I emailed my Euro Optic contact last night.

Found this May 27 article:

I was ready to get a CTR in .308 as I hadn't heard the Super Varmint was coming back. Heavier barrel, 2-stage trigger, and LOP adjustability may make this work for many in OEM form. My .223 T3x Varmint in a Bravo chassis has sold me on the T3x rifles. The function and accuracy with 69g FGMM is outstanding.
 
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Looks like it will. I emailed my Euro Optic contact last night.

Found this May 27 article:

I was ready to get a CTR in .308 as I hadn't heard the Super Varmint was coming back. Heavier barrel, 2-stage trigger, and LOP adjustability may make this work for many in OEM form. My .223 T3x Varmint in a Bravo chassis has sold me on the T3x rifles. The function and accuracy with 69g FGMM is outstanding.
Barrel aint be heavier than the normal varmint model.
And there is NO lop adj than the spacer system that has been since the T3.
Only thing is that the T3X is with the really nice 2-state trigger.
Action and barrel are still SS, just cerakoted.
Stock is also having that nice green color.
Not bad, id love to test that, even i have those plastic stocks.
6.5PRC is maybe the biggest oooh...
 
Barrel aint be heavier than the normal varmint model.
And there is NO lop adj than the spacer system that has been since the T3.
Only thing is that the T3X is with the really nice 2-state trigger.
Action and barrel are still SS, just cerakoted.
Stock is also having that nice green color.
Not bad, id love to test that, even i have those plastic stocks.
6.5PRC is maybe the biggest oooh...
But the barrel is heavier than the CTR and Sako S20 Precision. The expansion of calibers is quite welcome even though I'm going .308 mainly due to my inventory of brass, powder and bullets..... A fast twist 22-250 would be tempting in the future. The stock may work, we'll see, if not I'll probably stick the action in a KRG X-Ray chassis.

I'm guessing the 5/8x24 muzzle thread indicates the new offerings are destine for the US market.

Here's a video Tikka produced on the 3 new models.

 
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Tikka T3x TAC A1 Availability

I am located in the San Jose, CA area and looking for a Tikka T3x TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. I checked all the retail stores and all the big chains stores and none are available. I tried reaching out to Tikka to find out if there is any US inventory or if more are on the way, but I have not been able to find any published contact information for them.

Curious if anyone here knows what the availability for the Tikka T3x TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor is.
 
Tikka T3x TAC A1 Availability

I am located in the San Jose, CA area and looking for a Tikka T3x TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. I checked all the retail stores and all the big chains stores and none are available. I tried reaching out to Tikka to find out if there is any US inventory or if more are on the way, but I have not been able to find any published contact information for them.

Curious if anyone here knows what the availability for the Tikka T3x TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor is.
Contact Eurooptic. They will know more.
 
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But the barrel is heavier than the CTR and Sako S20 Precision. The expansion of calibers is quite welcome even though I'm going .308 mainly due to my inventory of brass, powder and bullets..... A fast twist 22-250 would be tempting in the future. The stock may work, we'll see, if not I'll probably stick the action in a KRG X-Ray chassis.

I'm guessing the 5/8x24 muzzle thread indicates the new offerings are destine for the US market.

Here's a video Tikka produced on the 3 new models.


Yep, it is the Tikka Varmint profile barrel.
It is the heaviest on Tikka collection.
I have that on my T3 260rem.
Slow as fuck, but accurate.
E68.JPG
 
T3x Varmint in .223, nothing fancy.
20190816_120257-L.jpg


Timed match 10rds in 10 minutes @100.
1579472531560-M.png


Minute of digger squirrel is my priority for this rifle.

Swirling wind conditions at our 200 range will drive you nuts shooting our 100/200yd Rimfire matches. I want the .308 to minimize the wind variables as all current my rifles are .17 and .22 cal.
 
Picked up another tikka today. This one is a T3x CTR in 6.5CM. Wanted a 308 but couldn't find one.

Anybody have a good source for CTR magazines?

Tempted to swap this one into my Oryx chassis and put my T3x lite into the CTR stock.
 
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Picked up another tikka today. This one is a T3x CTR in 6.5CM. Wanted a 308 but couldn't find one.

Anybody have a good source for CTR magazines?

Tempted to swap this one into my Oryx chassis and put my T3x lite into the CTR stock.
 
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Hope I am not jacking this thread. I am a noob and need some advice on barrels and muzzle devices for my Tikka project. I know this is SH but obviously this isn't intended to be an all out heavy bench rifle but rather a relatively lightweight versatile build to which I can then add weight where I want and need and still walk around in the hills with without too much difficulty.

Put this NF NXT onto T3X Superlight because that's the only Tikka .308 I could get at the (Covid) time, and it is pretty light as you can see. Probably a little too light for what I want (I am not an avid backcountry hunter, at least not yet)
IMG_3414.jpg
Unfortunately the factory stock doesn't even remotely fit me or my wife properly (smaller people, too long LOP, poor to no cheekwell etc.), and I am putting it into this XLR Mag chassis, which will still be very light and will be using the XLR weights in the chassis. Before even shooting it I am concerned with this rifle jumping around in .308.
IMG_4062.jpg
Especially since it's such a light rifle I want to add the APA Lil Bastard brake, but in my ignorance didn't realize the factory stainless fluted barrel does not have sufficient material to thread for the 5/8x24 device. Eurooptic didn't respond to my return email and now I am outside of return window for the brake.

So now I need to decide whether to try to sell the APA LB brake, replace with a x18 thread one, then thread the factory barrel, or just get an entirely different barrel. I didn't really buy the Superlight for the barrel and am fine with adding some weight in a barrel so I'm open to replacing it but don't think I can quite justify spending $1k on a Proof or similar at this point, and I am a little ignorant and overwhelmed with options for other barrels. I would be disappointed to swap brakes, thread the barrel, only to find it still jumping about and would rather just build it once the right way.

What options would you suggest for barrels, twist rate, etc.? Sorry for the long post and dumb questions.
 
Hope I am not jacking this thread. I am a noob and need some advice on barrels and muzzle devices for my Tikka project. I know this is SH but obviously this isn't intended to be an all out heavy bench rifle but rather a relatively lightweight versatile build to which I can then add weight where I want and need and still walk around in the hills with without too much difficulty.

Put this NF NXT onto T3X Superlight because that's the only Tikka .308 I could get at the (Covid) time, and it is pretty light as you can see. Probably a little too light for what I want (I am not an avid backcountry hunter, at least not yet)
View attachment 7652874
Unfortunately the factory stock doesn't even remotely fit me or my wife properly (smaller people, too long LOP, poor to no cheekwell etc.), and I am putting it into this XLR Mag chassis, which will still be very light and will be using the XLR weights in the chassis. Before even shooting it I am concerned with this rifle jumping around in .308.
View attachment 7652875
Especially since it's such a light rifle I want to add the APA Lil Bastard brake, but in my ignorance didn't realize the factory stainless fluted barrel does not have sufficient material to thread for the 5/8x24 device. Eurooptic didn't respond to my return email and now I am outside of return window for the brake.

So now I need to decide whether to try to sell the APA LB brake, replace with a x18 thread one, then thread the factory barrel, or just get an entirely different barrel. I didn't really buy the Superlight for the barrel and am fine with adding some weight in a barrel so I'm open to replacing it but don't think I can quite justify spending $1k on a Proof or similar at this point, and I am a little ignorant and overwhelmed with options for other barrels. I would be disappointed to swap brakes, thread the barrel, only to find it still jumping about and would rather just build it once the right way.

What options would you suggest for barrels, twist rate, etc.? Sorry for the long post and dumb questions.
Smallest recommended thread for a 308 is a 9/16 thread. On my Lite barrel it is big enough for a 9/16 but not enough for the shoulder.

I've got a thunderbeast ultra 7 in jail (I see you're in California so sadly that's a no go). For mine I'm going to send it to Thunderbeast to have them thread it for their CB face mount brake (they are the only ones that thread for that brake). It will then 'shoulder' off the muzzle.

To get enough meat on my Lite for a proper shoulder for 9/16 it'd have to be chopped from 24" to 18". I think that'd put you into the flutes. For a 5/8 thread it'd have to be chopped to an SBR of 9".

If you want to get it threaded for something else, @LongRifles Inc. does amazing quick good work for a pretty good price.

Might could ask @bohem if he could make one of his brakes be a face mount brake.
 
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@washedupndurty Cheapest route would be to sell the apa and buy a clamp on brake. Otherwise you could have somebody spin you up a prefit for $450-$600 and have them either do a 3b profile or do a lighter profile and have a reverse taper put in the very end of the barrel so you have a shoulder to butt the muzzle devise up to. Not sure if that is the correct term but I added a photo for reference. Carbon 6 also makes tikka prefits for $700ish

1624404338130.png
 
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Thanks so much for the helpful replies everyone. I am pretty set on staying .308 for various reasons with this rifle, and would love to be able to keep this APA since it fits my other rifles's threads too. At $450-700 for a quality new barrel, I think I'll just get a different barrel that closer suits my intended uses. Much appreciated!
 
I highly recommend McGowan barrels. They make a shouldered Tikka T3(x) prefit barrel. Meaning it is chambered, threaded, muzzle threaded, etc. Ready to screw on. For about $450. I have several and they shoot very well.

So really you just need to decide what caliber, cartridge, and bullet or ammo you want to shoot. On top of nailing down a contour. If a Tikka Lite contour is too light and too small at the muzzle for 5/8 threads, then you may look at the minimum muzzle diameter a 5/8's brake will thread. I think .700 is a safe bet. It's problem something like .675 but I'll leave that up to you to research.

If you look on McGowen's website a heavy Sporter is right around the size you're looking for. A Light Palma is the next size up but that's getting towards the lighter long-range or heavy hunter.

A caveat is that obviously the muzzle diameter will change depending on the length you have the barrel cut. I think the heavy Sporter is .7" at 24". It is much faster at 20".

McGowen also offers cerakote, fluting, and complete finishing.

Good luck!
Just so you know this is the numbers for a t3x lite.

Legend:
Diameter [Dia in mm] back from muzzle {bfm in mm} (barrel length) <bl in mm>

Muzzle 0.616 [15.64] 0 {0} (24.33) <618>
.620 [15.75] 1.358 {34.5} (23) <584.2>
.630 [16] 2.57 {65.28} (21.75) <552.45>
.640 [16.25] 3.81 {96.77} (20.5) <520.7>
.650 [16.5] 5.05 {128.27} (19.25) <488.95>
.660 [16.75] 6.27 {159.25} (18.06) <458.72>
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662 [16.81] 6.625 {168.27} (17.7) <449.58>
0.673 [17.1] 8.08 {205.23} (16.25) <412.75>


Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of tupperware 0.711 [18.06] (11) <279.4>
Recommended od for 5/8 0.725 [18.41] (9.33) <236.98>
 
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So now I need to decide whether to try to sell the APA LB brake, replace with a x18 thread one, then thread the factory barrel, or just get an entirely different barrel. I didn't really buy the Superlight for the barrel and am fine with adding some weight in a barrel so I'm open to replacing it but don't think I can quite justify spending $1k on a Proof or similar at this point, and I am a little ignorant and overwhelmed with options for other barrels. I would be disappointed to swap brakes, thread the barrel, only to find it still jumping about and would rather just build it once the right way.
First, congrats on the Tikka, that will be sweet. Second, try shooting it before going to such lengths to get a brake? Third, if a brake is needed, I agree either get it threaded in another pattern or get a clamp on brake. Edit: You could get this:
 
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Thanks so much for the helpful replies everyone. I am pretty set on staying .308 for various reasons with this rifle, and would love to be able to keep this APA since it fits my other rifles's threads too. At $450-700 for a quality new barrel, I think I'll just get a different barrel that closer suits my intended uses. Much appreciated!

We make a myriad of options for Tikka shouldered prefits however I also have a 9/16-24 thread pattern 30 caliber self timing muzzle brake.
If you want to thread that factory barrel I can do it and include my brake for $250 plus shipping.

Turn time is 7-10 days right now with the holiday weekend coming up.
 
washedupndurty, a good smith will have no problem installing a brake on that barrel contour, probably a 1/2-28, x18 is a metric thread and still pretty big. I had a 270wsm stainless light done a few years ago.
 
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washedupndurty, a good smith will have no problem installing a brake on that barrel contour, probably a 1/2-28, x18 is a metric thread and still pretty big. I had a 270wsm stainless light done a few years ago.
A good smith wouldn't thread it 1/2-28.

From Thunderbeast website.
1/2-28 threads are too small for .30 caliber. There is not enough metal between the bore grooves and the thread root diameter.
For 6.5mm (0.264") up to .30 caliber, we recommend a minimum of 9/16-24 threads.
If your barrel does not support the minimum dimension "D" in the diagram, we have a "FACE MOUNT" brake that "may" work for your rifle. Please call for details.
 
Yeah, Lefty, not sure if a brake is the same as a suppressor with regards threading and backpressure, I'm sure a Smith will chime in. Tikka barrels if I remember correctly are .630 so not sure what the appropriate size would be.
 
It has to do with metal between the threads and bore. Brake or suppressor doesnt matter. This is an extreme example but highlights why you dont want to go too small on your threads.

 
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I’m looking for a couple guys to be beta testers for my flat trigger shoes. These are for use with the factory trigger pack! Comes with the flat shoe and a replacement plunger. With the factory spring in my T1x and T3x I’m seeing an average 15oz break weight. Shoe shown here, along with it installed on my T3x. Can be seen (if you look real close) on my T1x pictured here as well. Have 5 or so I would like to get in the hands of people that will actually test them and provide feedback.
 

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Yeah, Lefty, not sure if a brake is the same as a suppressor with regards threading and backpressure, I'm sure a Smith will chime in. Tikka barrels if I remember correctly are .630 so not sure what the appropriate size would be.
Is @LongRifles Inc. a Smith according to your definition?

Bolded sections are direct quotes from this page. https://www.longriflesinc.com/colle...services-muzzle-threading?variant=11313326913

Last, the caliber and cartridge for a particular setup must be considered. As a rule, LRI requires a minimum of .100" of wall thickness between the groove diameter of the barrel and the root diameter of the thread being machined to the muzzle. This value is judgement based as well. A 300-378 Weatherby Magnum is a powerful cartridge with muzzle pressures significantly higher than a 308 Winchester at a given barrel length. Wall thickness should be increased accordingly.

Our experience has shown that a thin wall muzzle has the potential to "bell mouth" over time. When a crown bell mouths, the accuracy of the rifle suffers. You as the user may be compelled to think the barrel "let go" due to throat erosion when it's actually because the muzzle was threaded with too thin of a wall thickness.




9/16-24 root diameter is 0.5129. 1/2-28 moot diameter is 0.4574. On a 6.5 caliber groove diameter of 0.264 a 1/2 28 equals a wall thickness of 0.0967 wall thickness. A 308 groove same 1/2 thread equals 0.0747 wall. Change it to the 9/16 and the wall thicknesses are 0.1245 and 0.1025.

Of note this was farther up in the same section.
The thread shoulder on the barrel that a suppressor squares up against is an important feature that should be respected for direct mount type cans. As a cardinal rule we require a minimum of .100" diameter increase over the major diameter of the threads.

Examples:


  • 1/2-28 = .600" Shoulder Dia.
  • 9/16-24 = .6625" Shoulder Dia.
  • 5/8-24 = .725" Shoulder Dia.
  • 3/4-24 = .850" Shoulder Dia.
  • M18x1 = .810" Shoulder Dia.
  • "CUSTOM" = +.100" Shoulder Dia. over Major Thread Outside Diameter

Post 9705 has my measurements. 0.616 at the muzzle.
 
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Has anyone else purchased the new Super Varmint? I'm waiting for mine to arrive. I'd love to see real world pics of one if anyone has one.
 
Last, the caliber and cartridge for a particular setup must be considered. As a rule, LRI requires a minimum of .100" of wall thickness between the groove diameter of the barrel and the root diameter of the thread being machined to the muzzle. This value is judgement based as well. A 300-378 Weatherby Magnum is a powerful cartridge with muzzle pressures significantly higher than a 308 Winchester at a given barrel length. Wall thickness should be increased accordingly.

Our experience has shown that a thin wall muzzle has the potential to "bell mouth" over time. When a crown bell mouths, the accuracy of the rifle suffers. You as the user may be compelled to think the barrel "let go" due to throat erosion when it's actually because the muzzle was threaded with too thin of a wall thickness.




9/16-24 root diameter is 0.5129. 1/2-28 moot diameter is 0.4574. On a 6.5 caliber groove diameter of 0.264 a 1/2 28 equals a wall thickness of 0.0967 wall thickness. A 308 groove same 1/2 thread equals 0.0747 wall. Change it to the 9/16 and the wall thicknesses are 0.1245 and 0.1025.

Of note this was farther up in the same section.
The thread shoulder on the barrel that a suppressor squares up against is an important feature that should be respected for direct mount type cans. As a cardinal rule we require a minimum of .100" diameter increase over the major diameter of the threads.

Examples:


  • 1/2-28 = .600" Shoulder Dia.
  • 9/16-24 = .6625" Shoulder Dia.
  • 5/8-24 = .725" Shoulder Dia.
  • 3/4-24 = .850" Shoulder Dia.
  • M18x1 = .810" Shoulder Dia.
  • "CUSTOM" = +.100" Shoulder Dia. over Major Thread Outside Diameter

Post 9705 has my measurements. 0.616 at the muzzle.
I have been using a direct thread 5/8 x 24 can (harvester) on a couple of 18” Tikka lite barrels with no problem for a few years. The can seats flush and solid. Why is a 0.1” extra diameter shoulder supposed to be critical?
 
I have been using a direct thread 5/8 x 24 can (harvester) on a couple of 18” Tikka lite barrels with no problem for a few years. The can seats flush and solid. Why is a 0.1” extra diameter shoulder supposed to be critical?
I don't know the exact reason why. I don't work on gun parts. I'm not an engineer.

If this sounds like I'm explaining something to a 2 year old or overly authoritative it's not meant to. Just trying to make sense of some of the reasons why they have those requirements.

What is your can mating up against when it gets seated? What in the thread is being stressed when it gets 'torqued' down? What is there to keep all of the forces in line directly axial and centered with out stressing the threads sideways?

There is a little bit of slop/ clearance required in threads. For example go to the hardware store and put a bolt and nut together enough to just get the nut on all the way. Wiggle the nut. What is preventing the wiggle? That wiggle would equal misalignment and baffle strikes.

images.jpeg


Now look at this pic. What would prevent the wiggle in this situation? The black material which in our case is the shoulder. Threads are designed to have all of the forces going straight through the center of the thread in tension. They don't like being side loaded. Having the shoulder there changes those side loading forces to compression forces in the other material preventing bending and misalignment.
download (1).png


If the thread is bottoming out on the back of the threads (the runout) it could be misaligning and also be messing up the threads themselves. If you have too small of a shoulder there is less material to compress and is more likely to deform and mess up because you went beyond the strength of that amount of material.
 
That makes sense. It seems like there would be a few parameters to consider including the steel hardness, thread pitch, tolerances of the different mating surfaces on the barrel and can adapter, torque applied, etc. so I would just be skeptical of a 0.1” rule that applied in all cases.

Btw thanks for sharing the diameter measurements at different barrel lengths.
 
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That makes sense. It seems like there would be a few parameters to consider including the steel hardness, thread pitch, tolerances of the different mating surfaces on the barrel and can adapter, torque applied, etc. so I would just be skeptical of a 0.1” rule that applied in all cases.

Btw thanks for sharing the diameter measurements at different barrel lengths.
If anybody has a ctr, varmint, or supervarmint I would love the same type of measurements. Pick your measurement units and we can convert from there. That's what I did.


Steel hardness for barrels. Basically everybody is the same. You don't want too hard.

Thread pitch there's not too big of a difference. All gun threads are generally of unef (unified national extra fine) threads or the metric equivalent not the coarse or fine variants. 1/4-20, 1/2-13, and 5/8-11 are the ones you generally find in hardware stores and they are all unc.

For tolerances of mating surfaces (more of clearances for this purpose) everybody reputable that states what thread fit they use use class 3. Class 3 is the tightest fitting. Class 1 are rarely used and class 2 is everything out of the hardware store and 90% of all threads. I've machined threads for oil and gas and aerospace. Of the ones I've machined 75% of oil and gas and 100% of threads for aerospace are class 3. All firearm muzzles should be class 3. Suppressor manufacturers make to class 3.

There is a reason why certain people are better for threads. IMO there are 4 proper ways to measure external threads. Threading til the matching item goes is not correct. That was the response from a local gunsmith.

Thread wires. Have to use specific size wires for different thread counts. Works but fiddly.
certified-thread-measuring-wires-pg19.jpg


Pitch micrometer. A 0-1" mitutoyo pitch micrometer is upwards of $425 +$72 for each anvil pair (need at least 2 anvil pairs to measure muzzle threads).
61XGW+dOvrL._SL1500_.jpg
mitutoyo-126-800-screw-thread-micrometer-anvil-and-spindle-tips.jpg
pitcdia.jpg


Go no go gages. ~$400 for each individual thread.
5532685-23.jpg


Or the crazy expensive way of checking with an optical comparator. Upwards of thousands of dollars. Can't be checked on the machine though.
4LA59_AS02.jpeg


At work we use pitch mic (for pitch size) , go no go, and optical comparator (root radius and minor diameter). Go no go most important.

Torque applied for suppressors can vary and doesn't matter as much. As long as it makes up it works. The bigger the shoulder the less it matters I think.

Most profiles for long range type shooting don't have to worry about shoulder.

"For heavier varmint/tactical type barrel contours these values [the +.100"] are essentially meaningless because the barrels are already significantly larger."

"When using a Bartlein #3 contour sporter barrel as an example, the following would apply for approximate barrel lengths that meet the +.100" rule:

1/2-28 = 26" max finish length
9/16-24 = 24.25" max finish length
5/8-24 = 18" max finish length
M18x1 = Cannot be used as the barrel will be shorter than the 16" minimum required by law for a non SBR type rifle."
 
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Hope I am not jacking this thread. I am a noob and need some advice on barrels and muzzle devices for my Tikka project. I know this is SH but obviously this isn't intended to be an all out heavy bench rifle but rather a relatively lightweight versatile build to which I can then add weight where I want and need and still walk around in the hills with without too much difficulty.

Put this NF NXT onto T3X Superlight because that's the only Tikka .308 I could get at the (Covid) time, and it is pretty light as you can see. Probably a little too light for what I want (I am not an avid backcountry hunter, at least not yet)
View attachment 7652874
Unfortunately the factory stock doesn't even remotely fit me or my wife properly (smaller people, too long LOP, poor to no cheekwell etc.), and I am putting it into this XLR Mag chassis, which will still be very light and will be using the XLR weights in the chassis. Before even shooting it I am concerned with this rifle jumping around in .308.
View attachment 7652875
Especially since it's such a light rifle I want to add the APA Lil Bastard brake, but in my ignorance didn't realize the factory stainless fluted barrel does not have sufficient material to thread for the 5/8x24 device. Eurooptic didn't respond to my return email and now I am outside of return window for the brake.

So now I need to decide whether to try to sell the APA LB brake, replace with a x18 thread one, then thread the factory barrel, or just get an entirely different barrel. I didn't really buy the Superlight for the barrel and am fine with adding some weight in a barrel so I'm open to replacing it but don't think I can quite justify spending $1k on a Proof or similar at this point, and I am a little ignorant and overwhelmed with options for other barrels. I would be disappointed to swap brakes, thread the barrel, only to find it still jumping about and would rather just build it once the right way.

What options would you suggest for barrels, twist rate, etc.? Sorry for the long post and dumb questions.
I'm running a Witt Machine clamp on brake on my T3x lite in 308. I can't recommend it enough, had q good experience ordering from them and the brake has been flawless. I measured with a pair of calipers, installled the brake with LOTS of locktite and haven't had a single issue. Works great as a brake, makes that 308 hardly recoil.

 
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It has to do with metal between the threads and bore. Brake or suppressor doesnt matter. This is an extreme example but highlights why you dont want to go too small on your threads.


The obvious question is how does that change in a 6.5CM or 6CM barrel.

One would assume that what actually happened was there was not enough metal to prevent some change in the bore.

also my following question would be: what happens if the barrel was never shot with out a muzzle device attached to it?

..and my last question is is it due to the machining process itself or due to firing the weapon with out enough metal to keep it from blowing out?
 
Are there any chassis for the T3 that uses factory magazines?
The Woox Furiosa used the factory bottom metal and single stack mags, not sure if it can also for the CTR bottom metal (which is just a bit wider). Though that begs the question if it's properly a chassis.
 
Are there any chassis for the T3 that uses factory magazines?
I’m currently developing one that uses CTR mags. Should be available Q4 this year. Pictures are the 1st prototype that I’m currently testing.
 

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Single stack plastic magazines.
For 6,5x55
Long action makes it a little thinner for options.

Cadex field comp, field tac, lite comp, lite strike all work with factory LA plastic.

MDT lss, ess, tac21 work with long action but you have to use their 3.56 box magazine. Hnt26 says it works with long action but doesn't specify which magazine.

It appears that the Woox furiosa and their others will fit like mentioned above.