Tikka T3 Thread

jLorenzo

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Something a little different.
I've kitted my T3X Varmint .308 with target sights for a 300m comp.
The Sights are Pheonix Sights. The rail is a Spuhr extended rail which i have reversed to bring the extended part back behind the receiver and move the sight 2" closer to the eye.
Chassis is an MDT XRS.
And a single shot adapter
How big are the targets that you shoot?
 

jLorenzo

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Took the T3 in .308 out this weekend. Not my best effort, and I had camera issues, plus my suppressor was loose (found out after the session)
I still prefer .308 to 6.5cm as far as "feel"

Nice video. Cool to see the Arken reticle. Just ordered a 6x24 SH4. Cool rifle. Rifle specs? *saw the video description nevermind
Im moving to the old Sierra 155s (little bit cheaper than the Berger 155.5s) not a fan of shooting 100 rounds of 175s anymore.
 
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just browsing

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    Has anyone had any success shooting Hornady 88gr ELDM out of a factory Varmint .233?

    Unless you already have a bunch of them or you wanna do it just because, they would definitely not be my first choice.

    These barrels are notoriously slow to begin with and 8 twist does not help at all in terms of stability.

    Even the 80s were meh… shot fine at 100 but the 75-77gr stuff was noticeably better at distance.
     

    GBMaryland

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    What was interesting to me is that the factory barrel for the T3X shot lead bullets very well. (I have a 6.5cm)

    However when I attempted to shoot solid bullets through the barrel, they patterned kind of like a shotgun with a 19 inch group.

    i’d be surprised if the .223 barrels didn’t suffer the same consistency issues that the 6.5 and other barrels suffer.

    Which would explain why so many different types of bullets are sort of meh.

    The original barrel didn’t have more than about 700 rounds on it, but when I took a borescope to it I noticed all sorts of chatter marks and things that I would not of expected to see in a Tikka rifle. It wasn’t as bad as the Ruger RPRR that I bought new and was astonished to see how bad the barrel was… but it did have a tendency to get full of copper pretty quick, and it was a lot more picky with different bullets.

    Flip over to the proof barrel I had installed last week and it’s a world of difference.
     

    JohnCarter17

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    Jul 27, 2021
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    GRS Bifrost (brown) ordered for T3 Sporter 308 24" yesterday. Finally. MT bottom metal, shroud and lug already done.

    Also called Robert's Precision Rifles (Spring TX) about threading its barrel. I need to verify the diameter is big enough, I can't imagine it's not.
     
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    WeimaranerDad

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    I made it out to the range this morning with this new to me T3 Tactical in .223 . I borrowed a scope and mount from one of my AR’s. Yeah, yeah, I know…that height over bore . I was shooting 3 different factory loadings:

    1. PMC X-TAC with a 77gr SMK
    2. Sierra factory ammo with a 55gr HPBT
    3. Frontier 5.56 NATO w/ Hornady’s 75gr HPBT

    Yes, all 5 shot groups at 100 yards.

    I have a Tikka T3 Varmint in .22-250 on its way too.
     

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    Fire4EffectCA

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    I picked up my new Tikka T3x TAC A1 last Friday at the dealer. I have to wait to get a replacement set of rings before I can go shooting, but want to get familiarwith the rifle in the meantime.

    Are there any tips from other owners of this rifle regarding what I should do or look out for? I plan to keep the rifle stock for now.

    Thanks
     

    GBMaryland

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    The factory barrel only works well with lead core bullets… That is to say jacketed rounds.

    You’ll find that the factory barrel shoots very well, but it also heats up very quickly. As the barrel and action begin to heat up, if the ammunition you’re shooting is on the hot side you will begin to experience heavy bolt lift.

    A typical round that shoots very well is the 142 gr SMK running with ~41.5gr H4350 in Hornady brass, with LRPs.

    Berger 140 factory ammo is pretty great. Likewise most things you can buy from Spark Munitions will shoot very well. Prime 130s are decent but werent the best.

    Unlike my TRG rifles the T3X does not like solid copper bullets; I found that they would group around 18 to 19 inches at 100 yards no matter how hard I tried to work up a load. This is because the factory barrel is inconsistent from one end to the other in so far as the overall rifling: parts of the barrel slightly balloon out and then come back in which is not an issue for a lead-based bullet. However it is an issue if you have solid copper rounds because you get blow by the exhaust gases around the bullet. This is not really a problem for most people and lead rounds don’t have an issue with this at all.

    Overall with the right lead core bullets the factory barrel is a tack driver.

    I will say that in my experience you do have to clean it a lot more because there will be tooling marks in the lands and grooves on the barrel which you won’t see so much from an aftermarket barrel that cost as much as a rifle did. 😉
     

    Fire4EffectCA

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    The factory barrel only works well with lead core bullets… That is to say jacketed rounds.

    You’ll find that the factory barrel shoots very well, but it also heats up very quickly. As the barrel and action begin to heat up, if the ammunition you’re shooting is on the hot side you will begin to experience heavy bolt lift.

    A typical round that shoots very well is the 142 gr SMK running with ~41.5gr H4350 in Hornady brass, with LRPs.

    Berger 140 factory ammo is pretty great. Likewise most things you can buy from Spark Munitions will shoot very well. Prime 130s are decent but werent the best.

    Unlike my TRG rifles the T3X does not like solid copper bullets; I found that they would group around 18 to 19 inches at 100 yards no matter how hard I tried to work up a load. This is because the factory barrel is inconsistent from one end to the other in so far as the overall rifling: parts of the barrel slightly balloon out and then come back in which is not an issue for a lead-based bullet. However it is an issue if you have solid copper rounds because you get blow by the exhaust gases around the bullet. This is not really a problem for most people and lead rounds don’t have an issue with this at all.

    Overall with the right lead core bullets the factory barrel is a tack driver.

    I will say that in my experience you do have to clean it a lot more because there will be tooling marks in the lands and grooves on the barrel which you won’t see so much from an aftermarket barrel that cost as much as a rifle did. 😉

    Thank you for your input.

    I don't plan to shoot solids. I do have Hornady 140 gr EDL Match bullets, Hornady brass and H4350 on hand. Very disappointed to hear that Tikka barrels are of such poor manufacturer.
     

    CaptArab

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    my tikka CTR Phoenix is in the PX if you haven’t ordered yet
    I saw that.
    I guess it didn't work for you?

    I bought the MDT XRS but ended up returning it.

    Great chassis, just pushed me overweight for my rifles intended role (short / light / handy).

    I drilled a Matthew kydex cheek riser into the factory stock and I'm loving it as is.
     
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    blisters

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    I have shot solid hunting bullets (Barnes TSX, TTSX, Hornady GMX and Lapua Naturalis) in three different Tikkas with factory barrels (6.5x55, 6.5 Creedmoor and 9.3x62) and never had any issues.

    One thing to keep an eye out for is bullet length as bullet stabilization depends on that - a 140 grain 6.5mm caliber lead bullet will stabilize in any 6.5 (don't know about Grendels and other midget cartridges though) while a 140 grain GMX for example is very long and prone to cause stabilization issues in a lot of rifles.
     

    WeimaranerDad

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    I have shot solid hunting bullets (Barnes TSX, TTSX, Hornady GMX and Lapua Naturalis) in three different Tikkas with factory barrels (6.5x55, 6.5 Creedmoor and 9.3x62) and never had any issues.

    One thing to keep an eye out for is bullet length as bullet stabilization depends on that - a 140 grain 6.5mm caliber lead bullet will stabilize in any 6.5 (don't know about Grendels and other midget cartridges though) while a 140 grain GMX for example is very long and prone to cause stabilization issues in a lot of rifles.
    Here is Berger bullets twist rate bullet stabilization calculator :

    I started fiddling around with that the other night once I learned that the .22-250 Tikka I bought and should be getting shipped right now has a 1:14 barrel twist rate. Turns out I have plenty of 69gr and 77gr SMK’s. Some fellas on another forum were saying that a 14 twist could send 69’s and 77’s keyholing through a target.
     

    blisters

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    Honestly I have no experience at all with the .22-250 so I cannot weigh in on your thoughts. I have a 1:9 .223 to be able to run 69-73 grain lead bullets but the -250 delivers a whole lot more speed.
     
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    YotaEer

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    I saw that.
    I guess it didn't work for you?

    I bought the MDT XRS but ended up returning it.

    Great chassis, just pushed me overweight for my rifles intended role (short / light / handy).

    I drilled a Matthew kydex cheek riser into the factory stock and I'm loving it as is.

    I decided to go back to a bravo since I got one for my T1x to keep things consistent. The Phoenix is handier with the bravo being sturdier.
     
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    Lawnboi

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    223 shoots even better with 75 eldm since the chop. After this group at 400 I decided it was time to stop shooting at the little plate so I didn’t mess it up. This rifle continues to impress.

    78335C4F-323F-4240-8877-B8CB28E6137E.jpeg
     
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    WeimaranerDad

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    Honestly I have no experience at all with the .22-250 so I cannot weigh in on your thoughts. I have a 1:9 .223 to be able to run 69-73 grain lead bullets but the -250 delivers a whole lot more speed.
    Thanks for the reply.

    I might have mentioned that I have 2,000 plus of the 69gr and 77gr SMK’s in .224 caliber . In a way it would be nice, if they shot well in the 14 twist .22-250, especially if I went prairie dog hunting

    But in looking at a few reloading manuals, comparing/contrasting .223 and .22-250, as the bullet weights go up, the .22-250 has less and less of a velocity advantage.) IIRC, for the 55 grainers, the .22-250 travels about 500 fps faster. Oddly enough, the Sierra manual I have doesn’t list any 77gr loadings for .223 Remington (bolt action) and .2-250
     

    HolyCity73

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    My twins. Both hunters, 6.5 CM and 6.5PRC. Probably pulling the lower (PRC) barrel and bolt to swap with the upper if needed. Not much magnum worthhy hunting here in SC. Besides, the idea of having switch barrels is much more appealing since I really love the rifle on top. Plus I’m thinning the herd when it comes to complete rifles.
    Everything I took last year was with that little 20” Creed. 75y-304, all died.
    Absolutely love Tikkas.
     

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    Radiohead71

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    Thanks for the reply.

    I might have mentioned that I have 2,000 plus of the 69gr and 77gr SMK’s in .224 caliber . In a way it would be nice, if they shot well in the 14 twist .22-250, especially if I went prairie dog hunting

    But in looking at a few reloading manuals, comparing/contrasting .223 and .22-250, as the bullet weights go up, the .22-250 has less and less of a velocity advantage.) IIRC, for the 55 grainers, the .22-250 travels about 500 fps faster. Oddly enough, the Sierra manual I have doesn’t list any 77gr loadings for .223 Remington (bolt action) and .2-250
    I was looking at the 22-250 varmint too, but the twist rate was a deal breaker for me. I got the .223 Varmint. Even the new Super Varmint 22-250 model has the 1:14 twist. You could always just shoot out your factory barrel and then get a 22-250 or 22CM barrel in the twist you want. I just got the new Hornady 11th edition loading manual and it recommends 1:9 twist for 68 gr bthp, a 1:8 for 70gr GMX, and the 73, 75 and 80 gr. bullets. Even the 60 gr v-max says it will not stabilize in a 1:14.
     
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    WeimaranerDad

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    I was looking at the 22-250 varmint too, but the twist rate was a deal breaker for me. I got the .223 Varmint. Even the new Super Varmint 22-250 model has the 1:14 twist. You could always just shoot out your factory barrel and then get a 22-250 or 22CM barrel in the twist you want. I just got the new Hornady 11th edition loading manual and it recommends 1:9 twist for 68 gr bthp, a 1:8 for 70gr GMX, and the 73, 75 and 80 gr. bullets. Even the 60 gr v-max says it will not stabilize in a 1:14.
    I was looking at the 22-250 varmint too, but the twist rate was a deal breaker for me. I got the .223 Varmint. Even the new Super Varmint 22-250 model has the 1:14 twist. You could always just shoot out your factory barrel and then get a 22-250 or 22CM barrel in the twist you want. I just got the new Hornady 11th edition loading manual and it recommends 1:9 twist for 68 gr bthp, a 1:8 for 70gr GMX, and the 73, 75 and 80 gr. bullets. Even the 60 gr v-max says it will not stabilize in a 1:14.
    Well… arrgghhh…

    Thank you sir for the reply!

    By the way, I am brand new here, so my apologies for monopolizing this thread/possibly turning it into a reloading thread.

    Some other real quick questions :

    1. There is or was this little black plastic piece that covered the rear of the bolt on the Tactical I just got. It promptly cracked and split into two pieces.

    Is it critical to the function or longevity of the gun?

    Or is it strictly cosmetic?

    2. For the .22-250 Varmint (JRTXH314) model that is inbound, should I go ahead and buy a scope base for the gun now?

    Or should I actually wait to have it in my hands to confirm proper hole spacing, then order a base?

    Which base manufacturer would you recommend?


    I haven’t picked out any scopes, nor rings yet.
     

    Rich Emmons

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    My twins. Both hunters, 6.5 CM and 6.5PRC. Probably pulling the lower (PRC) barrel and bolt to swap with the upper if needed. Not much magnum worthhy hunting here in SC. Besides, the idea of having switch barrels is much more appealing since I really love the rifle on top. Plus I’m thinning the herd when it comes to complete rifles.
    Everything I took last year was with that little 20” Creed. 75y-304, all died.
    Absolutely love Tikkas.
    Interested to know more about your build? stock, barrel etc. nice rigs!!
     
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    Bertoli888

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    Saw a video that the Tikka T3x Arctic had a two-stage Trigger . Has anyone tried one and give us a report? Can it be swap into a regular one? Thank you.
     

    JohnCarter17

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    308Bifrost.jpg


    24" 308 Sporter, now in a Bifrost. MT bottom metal, rail, shroud.
    BLEMISHED BT46-NC PSR Atlas, 419 arca clamp and Henderson 3" arca rail ordered.

    Next time MT runs a special I will get their trigger spring, and the bolt release
    Meopta Optika6 5x30 MRAD (DLO reticle) will go on this.
    I am thinking Aadmount 34 mm, since Jon doesn't make 34 mm rings.

    CTRinSporter.jpg


    223 CTR now in the Sporter stock. MT steel recoil lug, UTG bipod.
    SWFA 3x9 HD, Aadmount 30mm rings, caps and throw lever.

    neutered CTR stock.jpg


    Neutered CTR stock
     
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    Dobermann

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    View attachment 7678321

    24" 308 Sporter, now in a Bifrost. MT bottom metal, rail, shroud.
    BLEMISHED BT46-NC PSR Atlas, 419 arca clamp and Henderson 3" arca rail ordered.

    Next time MT runs a special I will get their trigger spring, and the bolt release
    Meopta Optika6 5x30 MRAD (DLO reticle) will go on this.
    I am thinking Aadmount 34 mm, since Jon doesn't make 34 mm rings.

    View attachment 7678322

    223 CTR now in the Sporter stock. MT steel recoil lug, UTG bipod.
    SWFA 3x9 HD, Aadmount 30mm rings, caps and throw lever.

    View attachment 7678323

    Neutered CTR stock

    Hi John,

    Nice rigs!

    What drew you to the Bifrost stock?

    I have one but am still in two minds - amazing ergonomics, but it's heavier than a standard hunting stock, and doesn't have the rigidity of an alloy frame ... I keep wanting to sell it, because I can't really see a good use case ... but then I pick it up and it just melts into my arms like an ex-girlfriend I need to forget about.

    And thanks for the lead on the Henderson rails; I'd briefly looked for short Arca rails for the Bifrost but not found those. Did you get the Universal rail or the Hunter? And what mounting option did you choose?
     

    Raffy

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    Hi there does anyone know if the TX CTR short action 260 rem will fit into the TX3 super varmint 308 stock ?
    The regular varmint barrel contour is larger so you should be good there with the stock inlet. The bottom metal is not the same though. You are able to convert it with the right parts but will not have your 10 rd mag anymore
     

    Mallie

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    Sep 23, 2020
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    The regular varmint barrel contour is larger so you should be good there with the stock inlet. The bottom metal is not the same though. You are able to convert it with the right parts but will not have your 10 rd mag anymore
    That is what I am concerned about as the CTR has a 10 round mag and double stacked were the varmint had a4 round single stack.
     

    JohnCarter17

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    Jul 27, 2021
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    Hi John,

    Nice rigs!

    What drew you to the Bifrost stock?

    I have one but am still in two minds - amazing ergonomics, but it's heavier than a standard hunting stock, and doesn't have the rigidity of an alloy frame ... I keep wanting to sell it, because I can't really see a good use case ... but then I pick it up and it just melts into my arms like an ex-girlfriend I need to forget about.

    And thanks for the lead on the Henderson rails; I'd briefly looked for short Arca rails for the Bifrost but not found those. Did you get the Universal rail or the Hunter? And what mounting option did you choose?
    I have wanted a GRS stock ever since I first saw them on Mountain Tacticals site. I have also been reading here and at arf.com about chassis. When I start comparing features the Bifrost has many of the same features as some of the chassis.

    I also looked at a Bravo (poor man's TRG), but I don't want to jump to AICS mags, since I have enough either OEM or MT.

    I like the way it feels too. The majority of my usage will be bench. I will see how it holds up. I don't think I will hit the limits of this stock until I use up my milsurp ammo (British and some Hirtenberger) and start reloading.


    As for the ARCA rail, I chose the Universal with the chassis kit, hoping some of the screws are metric. I can't believe GRS wouldn't be using metric screws.

    I have also emailed GRS (to see what screw thread they use) and Short Action Precision to see what is in the kit.

    Update. The SAP ARCA options (screws) are not metric. Waiting to hear from GRS. I will also check if the lower slots are MLOC. If they are, I will switch to MLOC and source screws locally and dual secure it.

    oops, I was looking at a picture, showing the hollow areas on the bottom, which are obviously not MLOC. I will get the bare kit and source some fasteners locally.
     
    Last edited:

    Buddydogs

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    Oct 2, 2020
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    View attachment 7678321

    24" 308 Sporter, now in a Bifrost. MT bottom metal, rail, shroud.
    BLEMISHED BT46-NC PSR Atlas, 419 arca clamp and Henderson 3" arca rail ordered.

    Next time MT runs a special I will get their trigger spring, and the bolt release
    Meopta Optika6 5x30 MRAD (DLO reticle) will go on this.
    I am thinking Aadmount 34 mm, since Jon doesn't make 34 mm rings.

    View attachment 7678322

    223 CTR now in the Sporter stock. MT steel recoil lug, UTG bipod.
    SWFA 3x9 HD, Aadmount 30mm rings, caps and throw lever.

    View attachment 7678323

    Neutered CTR stock
    Nice
     

    260284

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  • Feb 15, 2017
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    I was looking at the 22-250 varmint too, but the twist rate was a deal breaker for me. I got the .223 Varmint. Even the new Super Varmint 22-250 model has the 1:14 twist. You could always just shoot out your factory barrel and then get a 22-250 or 22CM barrel in the twist you want. I just got the new Hornady 11th edition loading manual and it recommends 1:9 twist for 68 gr bthp, a 1:8 for 70gr GMX, and the 73, 75 and 80 gr. bullets. Even the 60 gr v-max says it will not stabilize in a 1:14.
    I have seen a few Tikka 22-250 with a 1-8" barrel and that would be great for the 70-80 gr bullets. @WeimaranerDad With the 1-14" you will be at 55gr and lighter. Shoot it out and get a Preferred Barrels prefit or any of the many others that are offered for a Tikka. My 223 Varmint shoots about every bullet weight good, but the 65,75, and,77 gr bullets really shine.
     

    Raffy

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    That is what I am concerned about as the CTR has a 10 round mag and double stacked were the varmint had a4 round single stack.
    If you have a ctr stock and ctr bottom metal you can do it. It just will take some sandpaper and some elbow grease to enlarge the barrel channel of the ctr to fit the diameter of the varmint barrel. Using a dowel rod with sandpaper wrapped around it worked ok. Super slow, but it gets there eventually with pretty decent results. I would not reccomend it if you are in a hurry!
     

    JohnCarter17

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    Jul 27, 2021
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    TX
    Well… arrgghhh…

    Thank you sir for the reply!

    By the way, I am brand new here, so my apologies for monopolizing this thread/possibly turning it into a reloading thread.

    Some other real quick questions :

    1. There is or was this little black plastic piece that covered the rear of the bolt on the Tactical I just got. It promptly cracked and split into two pieces.

    Is it critical to the function or longevity of the gun?

    Or is it strictly cosmetic?
    That was the bolt shroud, I think it serves to provide a smooth cover and keeps grit out.

    There are aftermarket metal alternatives made by Mountain Tactical and Sterk.
     

    Mallie

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    Sep 23, 2020
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    Cape Town
    If you have a ctr stock and ctr bottom metal you can do it. It just will take some sandpaper and some elbow grease to enlarge the barrel channel of the ctr to fit the diameter of the varmint barrel. Using a dowel rod with sandpaper wrapped around it worked ok. Super slow, but it gets there eventually with pretty decent results. I would not reccomend it if you are in a hurry!
    Thanks that is what I was hoping. Now wait for licence . Here in South Africa takes 3 -10 months.
     
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    Raffy

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    Thanks that is what I was hoping. Now wait for licence . Here in South Africa takes 3 -10 months.
    By the time you bought the varmint and the CTR components you would be about halfway to getting a krg chassis, if they are available there, depending on price in a diffetent country, of course.
     
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    Mallie

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    By the time you bought the varmint and the CTR components you would be about halfway to getting a krg chassis, if they are available there, depending on price in a diffetent country, of course.
    We have MDT and a local Warrior which is very nice . I already have a custom Wood laminate stock for precision.
    Have heard about that stock and seen it . Very nice .
     

    JohnCarter17

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    Jul 27, 2021
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    And thanks for the lead on the Henderson rails; I'd briefly looked for short Arca rails for the Bifrost but not found those. Did you get the Universal rail or the Hunter? And what mounting option did you choose?
    OK, I finally did what I should have done in the first place.

    Look at the holes.

    There is no threading in the plastic, they are using M5 screws, which is what the picc rail is threaded for, after that they are threading directly into the plastic. That explains why it was so damn hard the entire time both putting in and removing their screws.

    So since I ordered the chassis kit for the ARCA rail, I will stick with that. It comes with pan head screws by design to stay flush in the inlet, so I will use those.
     

    Dobermann

    Sergeant of the Hide
    Full Member
    Minuteman
    May 28, 2020
    233
    116
    OK, I finally did what I should have done in the first place.

    Look at the holes.

    There is no threading in the plastic, they are using M5 screws, which is what the picc rail is threaded for, after that they are threading directly into the plastic. That explains why it was so damn hard the entire time both putting in and removing their screws.

    So since I ordered the chassis kit for the ARCA rail, I will stick with that. It comes with pan head screws by design to stay flush in the inlet, so I will use those.
    Thanks John,

    Yeah, I've wondered about the holes in the Bifrost not being threaded ... so, as silly a question as it may be, what would be the best attachment option for the rail that Henderson sells - in other words, to get the right screws to go into blind/unthreaded plastic of the Bifrost's holes' diametres?
     

    Baddog 0302

    Private
    Full Member
    Minuteman
    Sep 22, 2013
    262
    53
    Panhandle of FLA
    Here is Berger bullets twist rate bullet stabilization calculator :

    I started fiddling around with that the other night once I learned that the .22-250 Tikka I bought and should be getting shipped right now has a 1:14 barrel twist rate. Turns out I have plenty of 69gr and 77gr SMK’s. Some fellas on another forum were saying that a 14 twist could send 69’s and 77’s keyholing through a target.
    They are correct, JBM and all the other stabilization / twist programs including the grand daddy of them all " The Greenhill formula " use bullet length
     

    JohnCarter17

    Private
    Minuteman
    Jul 27, 2021
    59
    30
    TX
    Thanks John,

    Yeah, I've wondered about the holes in the Bifrost not being threaded ... so, as silly a question as it may be, what would be the best attachment option for the rail that Henderson sells - in other words, to get the right screws to go into blind/unthreaded plastic of the Bifrost's holes' diametres?

    Ask me in a week.

    I will use 2 screws in the holes provided. I will use a 3rd in the hole for the removed sling stud, since it is available.

    Ideally, it looks like GRS wants using (their) bipod spigot mounted under the barrel. But that is pricier and not as much fun.

    It should be fine for bipod usage, but I wouldn't want to be regularly using it against barricades with a heavy hand.

    This should suffice. If not, one could always drill a couple more holes and run more screws.

    Good thing I ordered the 419 clamp with barricade stop integrated, LOL.
     
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