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Tikka T3 Thread

I just ordered a 6.5CM CTR and now I am looking into getting a brake for it. Should I go with a little bastard, Hellfire, or other? I most likely will not hunt with it, I am having a 6 CM built for that. Most likely going to shoot paper and bang steel with the 6.5
 
Coyotejunki said:
I just ordered a 6.5CM CTR and now I am looking into getting a brake for it. Should I go with a little bastard, Hellfire, or other? I most likely will not hunt with it, I am having a 6 CM built for that. Most likely going to shoot paper and bang steel with the 6.5
Click to expand...
I would shoot it before you get anything. The 6.5 CM in the CTR is so mild recoiling that you may not need it.
 
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Coyotejunki said:
I just ordered a 6.5CM CTR and now I am looking into getting a brake for it. Should I go with a little bastard, Hellfire, or other? I most likely will not hunt with it, I am having a 6 CM built for that. Most likely going to shoot paper and bang steel with the 6.5
Click to expand...
I have both the little bastard and hellfire match I prefer the hellfire.
 
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I have a Tikka T3X Roughtech (308). The factory muzzle brake that came with the gun is a simple radial design and I would like to replace it but I‘m not sure of the factory muzzle thread specification.

The owners manual states: M14x1 Except: 8x57IS, 9.3x62, Magnum Calibers... M15x1 Varmint, Super Varmint, Sporter, TAC... M18x1 Arctic, Compact Tactical Rifle... 5/8x24.

Since the Roughtech and Veil models are relatively new models and are not referenced anywhere in the manual, I contacted a highly respected brake manufacturer and he said he "thought" the threads for the Roughtechs were 5/8-24. If anyone knows for sure, please help me out.
 
KenCS said:
I have a Tikka T3X Roughtech (308). The factory muzzle brake that came with the gun is a simple radial design and I would like to replace it but I‘m not sure of the factory muzzle thread specification.

The owners manual states: M14x1 Except: 8x57IS, 9.3x62, Magnum Calibers... M15x1 Varmint, Super Varmint, Sporter, TAC... M18x1 Arctic, Compact Tactical Rifle... 5/8x24.

Since the Roughtech and Veil models are relatively new models and are not referenced anywhere in the manual, I contacted a highly respected brake manufacturer and he said he "thought" the threads for the Roughtechs were 5/8-24. If anyone knows for sure, please help me out.
Click to expand...
Assuming this was a US-purchased Roughtek model, yes it’s 5/8-24.
They make lots of other thread pitches for other international markets.
 
Jcarpenter223 said:
Anyone run a mk5 5-25 on their ctr? I finally got a ctr coming in and got that scope on backorder
Click to expand...

Yes I have one on my 6.5 CTR. Factory rail with Hawkins Medium rings.

20220202_102248.jpg
 
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For CHEAP Trigger spring replacement,

I saw on an earlier thread someone used an AR15 bolt catch spring to replace, and lower the Tikkas trigger pull. I just put a CMMG lower parts kit spring in my Tikka CTR and it took it from 2lbs factory spring lowest setting to 1lb 7 oz with the AR15 spring. I'll pick up some more since I still have a couple AR lowers to build.
 
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wade2big said:
I have a Tikka with a 24” factory 6.5 PRC barrel. With Hornady Precision Hunter I am getting about 2820 fps. Does anyone else have a factory 6.5 PRC barrel and have velocities with factory or handloads? I only put a few rounds down the barrel to zero and get some numbers on it. It may speed up a bit yet but I think its gonna take some handloads seated long and filled with powder to make it more than the 6.5 creedmoor it identifies as.
Click to expand...

Graywolf.260 said:
did you get this speed issue squared away yet
Click to expand...

I pulled down the factory Precision Hunter ammunition. The case was loaded with 55.7gr of powder. I reloaded the rounds from 56.2 to 60.7gr in .5gr increments seating the bullet way out long in Tikka LA magazines to .025” off of jammed using the factory powder and components.

With .5gr of powder more than the factor load but loaded much longer, the velocity dropped off to 2656 fps. At 60.7gr I was up to 2969 fps with no pressure signs. That’a plenty fast for me so it’s where I stopped. It was windy as hell so I will have to work a load up another day. As of now I only have 28rds down the barrel.

Tikkas seem to shoot factory ammunition extremely slow because of the long freebore I am figuring. Loading out longer and adjusting the powder charge to fill the void seems to get it on par with anything else out there. Good to know.
 
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dumb question, just noticed the last screw toward the barrel end of my ctr rail is not tightened down flush, pic attached.
it's not "loose", as in, it takes a fair bit of effort to turn it, is this in the process of working its way out? should i go ahead and screw it down, maybe with blue loctite? sorry, drawing a blank on how this used to be


ctr_rail.jpg
 
bassplayer said:
dumb question, just noticed the last screw toward the barrel end of my ctr rail is not tightened down flush, pic attached.
it's not "loose", as in, it takes a fair bit of effort to turn it, is this in the process of working its way out? should i go ahead and screw it down, maybe with blue loctite? sorry, drawing a blank on how this used to be


View attachment 7860791
Click to expand...
Do not screw it down. It is used to attach a mirage band that would extend to the sako brake. Other than that it has no function. If you screw it in and tighten it too much it will press off the action and warp your rail upwards.
 
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That screw is an attachment point for the optional Tikka/Sako mirage band. Don't screw it in any further. I guess you can remove it ft you want. It doesn't secure the rail to the receiver.
*Beaten like a red headed stepchild, lol..
 
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I wish I had been smart enough to ask that question several years back -- I screwed it in and ended up with a bowed rail.

Smart thing to ask.
 
Bungi said:
I wish I had been smart enough to ask that question several years back -- I screwed it in and ended up with a bowed rail.

Smart thing to ask.
Click to expand...
I started to do the same but fortunately noticed the rail start to pick up and reversed course.
 
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I also tried to reverse course -- But I had gone a bit too far. It was not noticeable to most people, but I could always see that stupid little space between the rail and the action.
 
wade2big said:
I pulled down the factory Precision Hunter ammunition. The case was loaded with 55.7gr of powder. I reloaded the rounds from 56.2 to 60.7gr in .5gr increments seating the bullet way out long in Tikka LA magazines to .025” off of jammed using the factory powder and components.

With .5gr of powder more than the factor load but loaded much longer, the velocity dropped off to 2656 fps. At 60.7gr I was up to 2969 fps with no pressure signs. That’a plenty fast for me so it’s where I stopped. It was windy as hell so I will have to work a load up another day. As of now I only have 28rds down the barrel.

Tikkas seem to shoot factory ammunition extremely slow because of the long freebore I am figuring. Loading out longer and adjusting the powder charge to fill the void seems to get it on par with anything else out there. Good to know.
Click to expand...
Hand loading ammo to fit the rifle / chamber dimensions is the magic to making a factory Tikka to really sing.
 
cannoncrossfire said:
Nice, should get some photos of your handle and shroud combo, not many of those shrouds in existence 😉
Click to expand...
Duly noted. I can definitely make that happen. The workmanship is awesome like everything else you make and it’s a very unique look compared to any other shrouds available. Boxy for the win.

CaptNemo said:
What chassis is this ?
What does the availability of bullets in .257 look like these days ?
Click to expand...
It’s a legacy XLR carbon chassis. They don’t make them anymore but you can still find them floating around every so often in the PX.

The bullets have been surprisingly easy to find. The 131 Blackjacks are all but dead and gone at this point (and I doubt they’re very high on Sierra’s priority list), but you can find the Berger 135 LRHTs with relative ease. MH and Euro have had them in stock for months, and I’ve even been able to find them at my local SW the last couple times I’ve been in there.
 
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I currently have my Tikka T3 in a MDT ESS Chassis and running the 3.560 Magazine for 7 SAUM. I am still hoping to find a bottom metal to fit the magazines and move to a Manners stock, but no luck still.
 
I'd like to ask if anyone of you gentlemen could school me about real world difference between T3x TACT A1 / CTR / Varmint barrels / accuracy.

I've tried to ask about (the barrels) from Sako, but they are not replying at all.

I'd like to put together a .308 rifle that would be used to shoot groups at shooting range (100 - 300 meters, very rarely anything longer. Possibly 500-690 meters like once a year), but that would also serve as stalking / sneaking hunting rifle, so weight is a factor.

Although I'm going to use GRS Bifrost stock, so I'll lose the functionality of the roughtech stock, I had already decided to use 20" Super Varmint. Ceracote finish and 2-stage trigger sound good to me.

But today I received an email from Tikka retailer saying "I think that tactical and range models have been made using "TRG barrel blanks" so they might be superior to Varmint barrel when it comes to accuracy".

I'm completely lost now..

Super Varmint "If you’re looking for a true vermin control or long-distance tool, look no further."

T3x TACT A1 "the ultimate tool for long range accuracy."

I get they are both very accurate, but there has to be a winner here (and a reason why Tikka makes different barrels / shapes).

I would very much appreciate any light shined on this issue of mine.
 
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I
Aakoo said:
I'd like to ask if anyone of you gentlemen could school me about real world difference between T3x TACT A1 / CTR / Varmint barrels / accuracy.

I've tried to ask about (the barrels) from Sako, but they are not replying at all.

I'd like to put together a .308 rifle that would be used to shoot groups at shooting range (100 - 300 meters, very rarely anything longer. Possibly 500-690 meters like once a year), but that would also serve as stalking / sneaking hunting rifle, so weight is a factor.

Although I'm going to use GRS Bifrost stock, so I'll lose the functionality of the roughtech stock, I had already decided to use 20" Super Varmint. Ceracote finish and 2-stage trigger sound good to me.

But today I received an email from Tikka retailer saying "I think that tactical and range models have been made using "TRG barrel blanks" so they might be superior to Varmint barrel when it comes to accuracy".

I'm completely lost now..

Super Varmint "If you’re looking for a true vermin control or long-distance tool, look no further."

T3x TACT A1 "the ultimate tool for long range accuracy."

I get they are both very accurate, but there has to be a winner here (and a reason why Tikka makes different barrels / shapes).

I would very much appreciate any light shined on this issue of mine.
Click to expand...
Realistically, the difference in accuracy is likely to be bigger between individual rifles rather than the model. They're all good. Some of them are better than others. Some custom rifles may be quantifiably better.

It is often said that thicker barrel profiles are easier to get to shoot accurately, but you will find a lot of rifles with thinner barrel profiles that shoot extremely well.
 
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I took profile measurements of my lite barrel awhile ago. Haven't gotten my hands on a ctr, taca1, or varmint to measure the same way. Used calipers to measure muzzle size and every 0.010" (or 0.25mm) diameter change along with how far back from the muzzle that diameter was. For the ones listed above stopping at the front of the stock would help.
 
Are Tikka Tac A1 actions the same length as regular T3X actions? Could one hypothetically get a replacement Tikka/LRI magnum bolt, swap barrels and run say a 300WM? Yes it would not be ideal and not something I am planning to do, but how much would the max COAL the A1 action can handle limit this? Say as a pure single shot rifle to keep mag length issues away from the equation.
 
Centurion123 said:
Are Tikka Tac A1 actions the same length as regular T3X actions? Could one hypothetically get a replacement Tikka/LRI magnum bolt, swap barrels and run say a 300WM? Yes it would not be ideal and not something I am planning to do, but how much would the max COAL the A1 action can handle limit this? Say as a pure single shot rifle to keep mag length issues away from the equation.
Click to expand...
Theoretically, yes. They are one in the same length.

Just be careful with 7mag/300wm and above as you’re going to be limited by seating depth, especially with longer freebores and heavier bullets.
 
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Centurion123 said:
Are Tikka Tac A1 actions the same length as regular T3X actions? Could one hypothetically get a replacement Tikka/LRI magnum bolt, swap barrels and run say a 300WM? Yes it would not be ideal and not something I am planning to do, but how much would the max COAL the A1 action can handle limit this? Say as a pure single shot rifle to keep mag length issues away from the equation.
Click to expand...
No
 
Centurion123 said:
Are Tikka Tac A1 actions the same length as regular T3X actions? Could one hypothetically get a replacement Tikka/LRI magnum bolt, swap barrels and run say a 300WM? Yes it would not be ideal and not something I am planning to do, but how much would the max COAL the A1 action can handle limit this? Say as a pure single shot rifle to keep mag length issues away from the equation.
Click to expand...
The Tac A1 is only available in short action.
 
Possible ways to lengthen the 223 CTR mag to accept longer oal?

These use the plastic liner in what I assume is the .308 mag body, just looking for ideas to modify the liner and resecuring it to the mag body, and if any follower modifications will be needed. Have some 90gr SMK'S loaded to 2.6"
 

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Last edited:
Anyone have a T3x tac that they've migrated to a KRG Whiskey 3 chassis and weigh it?

Wondering what the overall weight came out to be and if it would be a significant improvement over the already portly 13.7 lb tikka

Yes, I havent made the time to pull my chassis off and weigh it, the fucking flu kicked my ass this past week.
 
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