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Tikka T3 Thread

Hey y’all! Quick question. (Which I realize is not quick at all).

I have my tikka t3x crt in 6.5cm w a 20” barrel. I’m planning on upgrading the barrel in a few months time. I’m planning on going w a Heavy Palma contour in 24 or 26”. I’m shooting 6.5cm w heavy for caliber rounds, 140+ (144,147 and 153) normally.

Questions:
What twist rate? 1:7, 1:7.5 etc.?
What FB? 6.5mm Creedmoor (SAAMI .199" FB) or .110 or .150?

Thanks y’all!

Btw I’m hand loading everything.
 
Hey y’all! Quick question. (Which I realize is not quick at all).

I have my tikka t3x crt in 6.5cm w a 20” barrel. I’m planning on upgrading the barrel in a few months time. I’m planning on going w a Heavy Palma contour in 24 or 26”. I’m shooting 6.5cm w heavy for caliber rounds, 140+ (144,147 and 153) normally.

Questions:
What twist rate? 1:7, 1:7.5 etc.?
What FB? 6.5mm Creedmoor (SAAMI .199" FB) or .110 or .150?

Thanks y’all!

Btw I’m hand loading everything.
You aren’t upgrading your barrel, you are just switching it out for something different.
 
When I emailed Hornady about twist for 6.5 140s they recommended 1:8. You might email them about the longer bullets 1:7 or 7.5 might be preferable. Not sure on the FB handloading others might jump in I think mine is the standard 199 but I just shoot factory.
 
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When I emailed Hornaday about twist for 6.5 140s they recommended 1:8. You might email them about the longer bullets 1:7 or 7.5 might be preferable. Not sure on the FB handloading others might jump in I think mine is the standard 199 but I just shoot factory.

Thanks and good point!
 
Last question: how hard is it to remove / replace the factory barrels on the Tikka T3Xs? I have a full shop in my garage, lathe, mill, etc. and do fabrication for my 80 series Cruiser but have never worked on a rifle to that level… only scope mounting etc. (ie Lego level). I know I need a vice, barrel wrench go/no go gauges etc….
 
Anyone rebarrelled a TAC A1 to .284 Winchester? I have one in .308 which as far I can work out would need a new barrel, modified bolt stop and some work on the mag well to take a longer magazine? Thinking of running 180gr Berger's...

Change the bolt stop and put it in a LA chassis.
 
I ended up taking my tikka to a gunsmith to remove the factory barrel. They had a 250+ pound guy pulling on the action wrench and another tapping the wrench with a hammer before it finally popped loose.
 
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Last question: how hard is it to remove / replace the factory barrels on the Tikka T3Xs? I have a full shop in my garage, lathe, mill, etc. and do fabrication for my 80 series Cruiser but have never worked on a rifle to that level… only scope mounting etc. (ie Lego level). I know I need a vice, barrel wrench go/no go gauges etc….
I have read that the factory barrels are on there pretty darn tight. Sometimes people make some sort of relief cut to get them off. Ruins the barrel. I have never done this, but a search will reveal numerous examples.
 
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I ended up taking my tikka to a gunsmith to remove the factory barrel. They had a 250+ pound guy pulling on the action wrench and another tapping the wrench with a hammer before it finally popped loose.

Yeah this is what I’ve heard too…. Guess I need to find a good smith in the area… thanks!
 
Yeah this is what I’ve heard too…. Guess I need to find a good smith in the area… thanks!
I’ve removed (4) factory Tikka barrels. Three come off with a whack of my hand on the action wrench. One took a few whacks with a rubber mallet on the action wrench handle. If you are considering picking up the tools to do it anyhow, then go ahead and get them and give it a go.
 
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I’ve removed (4) factory Tikka barrels. Three come off with a whack of my hand on the action wrench. One took a few whacks with a rubber mallet on the action wrench handle. If you are considering picking up the tools to do it anyhow, then go ahead and get them and give it a go.

Same here, 4 barrels between myself and a buddy who had never removed a barrel.
 
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Anyone put a Tikka in an ESS or sim AR type chassis with AR style fore end/stock? Wondering how the high bore axis relative to butt pad shoots and looks.


IMG_20191129_195108.jpg



old pic, only slight changes to this pic in the way of arca rail, longer pic rail and scope, and got it threaded for a brake, but will have the same scope back on it when i get some time. sorry i dont have it right now to take more pics. have a pic on my phone that i will upload shortly, but strapped in a bag.
 

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old pic, only slight changes to this pic in the way of arca rail, longer pic rail and scope, and got it threaded for a brake, but will have the same scope back on it when i get some time. sorry i dont have it right now to take more pics. have a pic on my phone that i will upload shortly, but strapped in a bag.
Dude...sweet 😄 I'm thinking about piecing together something like that with an AR style collapsible folder!
 
Dude...sweet 😄 I'm thinking about piecing together something like that with an AR style collapsible folder!

word of warning if not using a pencil thin barrel, mine is not light. its between 17-18 pounds (merican weight), thats why i use a monopod to shoot when i go hunting. in my current physical condition with work related injuries, i cant shoulder it.
 
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That's an OK weight for me it'll likely be in 308 so won't mind a little weight it won't be a backcountry use. My primary concern is getting a proper cheek height. That higher scope rail to flush out with the fore end rail gets high at the butt. I'd like to find a magpul stock that has enough comb adjustment to get up there that will work with a LAW style folder on a buffer tube.
 
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Anyone rebarrelled a TAC A1 to .284 Winchester? I have one in .308 which as far I can work out would need a new barrel, modified bolt stop and some work on the mag well to take a longer magazine? Thinking of running 180gr Berger's...
I think you'd run out of space in the mag but you'd need to load a dummy round and measure to confirm. WTO has a cartridge called a 7 SAW that's similar to a 7-08 Ackley that might be a better fit but the real high BC bullets like the 190 atip and 195 bergers are still gonna be seated way too deep to get food velocity (guessing, again you'd have to load one to confirm).

At those mag confines a faster 6.5 Creedmoor or 25 creedmoor with the 131 BJ is gonna be hard to beat.

The hunting crowd has run 284 out of the factory Sporter/lite '06 mags just fine, fwiw
 
Has anyone used the Tikka action wrench on eBay?

PVA and Bugholes are no ETA. I could go with the SAC, but I wanted to get feedback on the eBay one first?


I'm actually pulling a newly installed 7SAW barrel to throw on a 6.5CM. I was planning on shooting 160 TMK at 2825ish. Life has just gotten in the way to do any meaningful load development, so I needed to shoot some factory ammo.
I have the sac vise and wrench and it's fantastic. It's modular too so buy once cry once.
 
I'm going to buy their vice, specifically because they have the Tikka taper bushing. I actually just buy the stainless takeoffs that people sell and keep a few around.
Same. Good call.

I actually just popped a factory Tikka barrel for the first time last night using my sac vise with a wheeler #1.

Super easy, took 10 minutes.
 

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I’m SURE someone has posted on here before but what’s the trick to removing a stock tikka t3x ctr scope mount…? Heat? I’ve ruined 2 torx wrenches already… and it’s beginning to strip the damn screws too! Thanks!
 
I’m SURE someone has posted on here before but what’s the trick to removing a stock tikka t3x ctr scope mount…? Heat? I’ve ruined 2 torx wrenches already… and it’s beginning to strip the damn screws too! Thanks!
Yep they are on with epoxy just use a butane torch/lighter. I used an old scope ring on the rail to use as a pry anchor.
 
Same. Good call.

I actually just popped a factory Tikka barrel for the first time last night using my sac vise with a wheeler #1.

Super easy, took 10 minutes.
Didn't have to flip the wrench cap upside down? I flipped mine over onto the flat side but had to buy longer bolts. BTW if that CTR barrel is a 308 and you want to sell let me know.
 
Yep they are on with epoxy just use a butane torch/lighter. I used an old scope ring on the rail to use as a pry anchor.
Ok cool and thanks! I also have a heat gun which I may try first…. Also I noticed what looked like a pin in the mount…. Not a screw but a silver pin… I’m installing an EGW rail and it ain’t got no pin…. Thoughts?
 
Ok cool and thanks! I also have a heat gun which I may try first…. Also I noticed what looked like a pin in the mount…. Not a screw but a silver pin… I’m installing an EGW rail and it ain’t got no pin…. Thoughts?
I don't recall pins being present on the one I removed but it was an older T3 not X receiver something may have changed. If your new rail doesn't have holes for the pins I'd just keep them with your stock rail and degrease the holes.
 
I don't recall pins being present on the one I removed but it was an older T3 not X receiver something may have changed. If your new rail doesn't have holes for the pins I'd just keep them with your stock rail and degrease the holes.


Holy hell it worked!! Butane torch, hammer, lock jaws, cursing to every god imaginable, but it worked!!! Thank you!

The old torx screws are pretty well fukked though….
 

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Didn't have to flip the wrench cap upside down? I flipped mine over onto the flat side but had to buy longer bolts. BTW if that CTR barrel is a 308 and you want to sell let me know.
I'm actually holding on to it for teotwawki situations where I might actually use my stash of 175 SMKs 🤣

I didn't flip it, no.

The v fit the top of the receiver perfectly - didn't marr it at all.

I didn't heat it at all either, just a big whack with the hammer and it popped right off.
 
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I'm actually holding on to it for teotwawki situations where I might actually use my stash of 175 SMKs 🤣

I didn't flip it, no.

The v fit the top of the receiver perfectly - didn't marr it at all.

I didn't heat it at all either, just a big whack with the hammer and it popped right off.
Don't blame you for keeping they're nice pipes! Man I feel like a moron I never even tried using the V glad to know that now though.
 
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Yep they are on with epoxy just use a butane torch/lighter. I used an old scope ring on the rail to use as a pry anchor.
[/QUOTE]

Soldering iron works too.
 
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T3x Tac checking in...went 500 rounds stock. Anywhere from 250 to 1000 yards, has been very accurate for me. 0.45 MOA my best with 140gr ELD Match. After that it really likes 140gr Sig Match at 0.54 MOA. Both 5 rounds at 100.
52129801893_7bfe76b876_b.jpg


Just swapped into new chassis and went with a bit lower mount for the NX8. Chassis going out for cerakote then I'm off to Thunder Valley for 1000-1700 yards, and a Modern Day Sniper course in August. Psyched to wring out the new setup.
Parts list:
T3X TacA1 (if I was doing it again, I'd have just done T3X ctr)
Rugged 3 Port Brake
Rugged Radiant 762 (pending ATF. big sad.)
Nightforce NX8 4-32x50 XT Mil
Spuhr 3601
Spuhr SICS
Spuhr arca slider w/ bipod
52130099856_d05ea8bd49_b.jpg
 
I have an older T3 .223. 20" threaded barrel. Can anyone confirm what thread that is?

M18x1 I'm thinking, but Google Fu has been inconclusive and I'd rather not 'screw' this up.

Any barrel thread adapters to avoid? I'd like to get this to 1/2x28 to then get a KeyMo Flash hider on if possible.
 

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I have an older T3 .223. 20" threaded barrel. Can anyone confirm what thread that is?

M18x1 I'm thinking, but Google Fu has been inconclusive and I'd rather not 'screw' this up.

Any barrel thread adapters to avoid? I'd like to get this to 1/2x28 to then get a KeyMo Flash hider on if possible.
If I were you, I’d go to your local hardware store and get a bunch of single bolts in what you think it may be…. And test. Obviously you could also take the rifle to the store but that’s probably not going to go over well :). Either way, best know for sure by using a known bolt to test first than listening to strangers on the internet.

Good luck though!
 
I have an older T3 .223. 20" threaded barrel. Can anyone confirm what thread that is?

M18x1 I'm thinking, but Google Fu has been inconclusive and I'd rather not 'screw' this up.

Any barrel thread adapters to avoid? I'd like to get this to 1/2x28 to then get a KeyMo Flash hider on if possible.
1/2x28 is usually 223 and 9mm.
Yours is either m18x1 or 5/8x24.

Probably 5/8x24

For rifle cases bigger than 223, you typically want 5/8x24 unless you're doing something weird for a lightweight Sporter.
 
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I have an older T3 .223. 20" threaded barrel. Can anyone confirm what thread that is?

M18x1 I'm thinking, but Google Fu has been inconclusive and I'd rather not 'screw' this up.

Any barrel thread adapters to avoid? I'd like to get this to 1/2x28 to then get a KeyMo Flash hider on if possible.
I vote 5/8x24 your calipers read 17.95mm or .70" on the thread majors so it'd appear to calculate.
 
1/2x28 is usually 223 and 9mm.
Yours is either m18x1 or 5/8x24.

Probably 5/8x24

For rifle cases bigger than 223, you typically want 5/8x24 unless you're doing something weird for a lightweight Sporter.

Found some more posts on other forums to make me pretty positive its M18x1 now. May take the thread protector to the hardware as @category_theory suggested and double check though.

And the more that I think about it, no reason to be married to 1/2x28 in this instance. .223 or not.

Thanks.
 
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Any of you Tikka shooters using KRG Bravo have to lop off the front of the cheek piece to clear the bolt when operating?
 
I have an older T3 .223. 20" threaded barrel. Can anyone confirm what thread that is?

M18x1 I'm thinking, but Google Fu has been inconclusive and I'd rather not 'screw' this up.

Any barrel thread adapters to avoid? I'd like to get this to 1/2x28 to then get a KeyMo Flash hider on if possible.
The one I saw in person used the Sako trg-22 thread / thread protector which is Metric system.
 
If I were you, I’d go to your local hardware store and get a bunch of single bolts in what you think it may be…. And test. Obviously you could also take the rifle to the store but that’s probably not going to go over well :). Either way, best know for sure by using a known bolt to test first than listening to strangers on the internet.

Good luck though!
Single bolts in the tpi you think it is. So any metric x1 or imperial-24. This works for any size thread. If you're ever trying to check a 1/2-28 you will never find one in a big box store but you might find 1/4-28.

Or get a set like this.
91jZMC4Q9sL._SL1500_.jpg
 
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What other options are there for a Tikka T3 LA chassis (WITH 3.56" MDT MAG) or heavier the stock the better for prone or bench shooting?
  • MDT ESS (Would prefer the ACC not available in LA)
  • KRG Bravo (would prefer the W3)
  • Just saw the Spurh SICS above very nice

  • Other conventional stocks may considered:
  • McMillan T3 LA?
  • Manners
  • grayboe
  • AG
 
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The tikka tac A1 is an awesome shooter as it sits no need to re barrel this rifle unless you want carbon fibre barrel and you dont save that much weight for the $.All my tikkas ctr,t3x ,tac a1 shoot better than I can shoot!
Rick
 
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Hey Y'all,
Im looking at getting a new barrel for my Tikka T3X ctr, in 6.5 cm. Im gonna go with a pre-fit since I like the idea of (post getting the old barrel off) being able to change barrels and set headspace myself from my own bench at home.... maybe even play around with some other calibers down the way.... Anyway I have narrowed it down to a few brands. I am keeping her at 6.5cm for the time being but will be going with a 24" or 26" heavy Palma or a heavy varmint for long range target shooting and then get a shorter 20 or 24 sporter or similar for hunting....

Question is which brand do I go with:
Criterion
X Caliber
International Barrels
Preferred Barrel Blanks

I am somewhat leaning to Preferred (mainly because I think I've watched all of their Youtube videos at this point, I'm a YouTube slut I guess.... :)
 
Hey Y'all,
Im looking at getting a new barrel for my Tikka T3X ctr, in 6.5 cm. Im gonna go with a pre-fit since I like the idea of (post getting the old barrel off) being able to change barrels and set headspace myself from my own bench at home.... maybe even play around with some other calibers down the way.... Anyway I have narrowed it down to a few brands. I am keeping her at 6.5cm for the time being but will be going with a 24" or 26" heavy Palma or a heavy varmint for long range target shooting and then get a shorter 20 or 24 sporter or similar for hunting....

Question is which brand do I go with:
Criterion
X Caliber
International Barrels
Preferred Barrel Blanks

I am somewhat leaning to Preferred (mainly because I think I've watched all of their Youtube videos at this point, I'm a YouTube slut I guess.... :)
26" m24 threaded muzzle shouldered prefit (no setting headspace needed) for $575.
 
My 24" CTR 6.5cm arrived at my FFL Wednesday but I haven't been able to pick it up due to him having the flu. 20moa rail and trigger spring on the way also so hopefully it will all come together this week. Can't wait to see how it You might do some research on getting the stock scope rail off before attempting it. It is glued on.