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Tikka T3 Thread

Picking up my first Tikka (looking at the T3X CTR in 308), getting in to some precision and long range shooting. I have a hunting back ground that I have taken mule deer and elk out to 450ish yards (mostly using 300wsm, & 30-06) out of Model 70's and M77 in featherweight models. Really liking the Tikka, any thoughts and inputs on starting out, are much appreciated.
Tikka buying guide
Page 66 of this thread post #3268. Start there. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/post-7301418
 
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Hey Right! I reload so what I meant was are they compatible? I tried them but returned them to Midway because the bolt never became easier to close. I just bought a new T3X Super Varmit 223 and I'd like to use them if I can. Any ideas?

Have you bothered to adjust your die?
I don't really get your problem at all, since the only "issue" I've ever noticed with using different shellholders have been that I might have to actually measure my bump and not follow the book, but you should be doing that anyway to avoid over working your brass.
 
@Sgt.O351 I have had no issue using a Redding FL sizing die and the Redding Competition shell holders to resize brass for my 6.5 Creedmoor T3X. There is either something wrong with your die or something else in your loading process.
 
TAC-A1 ?
A friend brought me his TAC A1 with a trigger problem. When I went to remove the action from the chassis , it seams that the action is somehow attached to the forearm of the chassis, with two od ball size socket head screws. Can someone send me a PM telling me what it what. The owner is looking for the manual , but I can't count that he has it.

Thank you
 
TAC-A1 ?
A friend brought me his TAC A1 with a trigger problem. When I went to remove the action from the chassis , it seams that the action is somehow attached to the forearm of the chassis, with two od ball size socket head screws. Can someone send me a PM telling me what it what. The owner is looking for the manual , but I can't count that he has it.

Thank you
Here's one manual. Any good?

(search for TAC A1) to find items that are specific to it)

Edit:
It says to remove the fore end as the first step of removing barreled action. 3mm Allen key is mentioned there.
 
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Here's one manual. Any good?

(search for TAC A1) to find items that are specific to it)

Edit:
It says to remove the fore end as the first step of removing barreled action. 3mm Allen key is mentioned there.
What it does not say or I missed it that there are two screws that hold the rear part of the chassis to the recoil lug.
Thank you , now to research everything to do with the OME trigger
 
Finally got the Arca rail mounted up today. Need a different scope mount and decide what to do about mags - either inlet for bottom metal/AICS mags or run the Waterman extended COAL mags.

This thing shot incredible yesterday. 1155 yards was easy money with 75 ELDs at 2930. Super consistent even with some pretty sporty wind.

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@Aksnowberm - Hornady ELD-m usually works pretty well in most everything I have owned with one exception (I have a 7PRC that doesn’t care for it). I’d pick up a box and start there.

As far as how loads perform at distance - I usually gauge that by reading around (ammo manufactures will give you an estimate for velocity, people also post online about the velocities they are getting). With that info and the manufactures published bc’s and bullet weights, you can run different loads against each other in a ballistic calculator and see how they compare in terms of drop, drift, energy, and velocity. That should help you make some decisions based on what you care about and your use case.
 
I have a T3x light in .308. I want a T3x in .223, Varmint to use as a trainer. Budget is a consideration.

I could just sell the 308 and get a .223 Varmint. Would lose some $ on the sale.

OR

If I chose to convert it (which sounds more fun), I have a few questions...

I know that I need a barrel.

Can you change the bolt face or do I need a whole new bolt? I have read contradicting info.

Am I right that Tikka doesn't have long and short actions?

Would I need to change anything else out?

Thanks for any help you can all give me.
 
I have a T3x light in .308. I want a T3x in .223, Varmint to use as a trainer. Budget is a consideration.

I could just sell the 308 and get a .223 Varmint. Would lose some $ on the sale.

OR

If I chose to convert it (which sounds more fun), I have a few questions...

I know that I need a barrel.

Can you change the bolt face or do I need a whole new bolt? I have read contradicting info.

Am I right that Tikka doesn't have long and short actions?

Would I need to change anything else out?

Thanks for any help you can all give me.
The action length is the same, the difference is the bolt stop. Considering they’re both short action cartridges you should just need a barrel, bolt, and magazine. Complete bolt assembly to change, not just a bolt head.
 
I have a T3x light in .308. I want a T3x in .223, Varmint to use as a trainer. Budget is a consideration.

I could just sell the 308 and get a .223 Varmint. Would lose some $ on the sale.

OR

If I chose to convert it (which sounds more fun), I have a few questions...

I know that I need a barrel.

Can you change the bolt face or do I need a whole new bolt? I have read contradicting info.

Am I right that Tikka doesn't have long and short actions?

Would I need to change anything else out?

Thanks for any help you can all give me.
A gunsmith can make the bolt face larger, but not smaller. You need a new bolt
 
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I have a T3x light in .308. I want a T3x in .223, Varmint to use as a trainer. Budget is a consideration.

I could just sell the 308 and get a .223 Varmint. Would lose some $ on the sale.

OR

If I chose to convert it (which sounds more fun), I have a few questions...

I know that I need a barrel.

Can you change the bolt face or do I need a whole new bolt? I have read contradicting info.

Am I right that Tikka doesn't have long and short actions?

Would I need to change anything else out?

Thanks for any help you can all give me.
The absolute last thing I'd do is to try and rip apart a perfectly good rifle, throw half of it's parts away to start building a new one at possibly similar expense as buying a second rifle.
Just shop around and get a t3 223 preferably with 1/8 twist. Even if 20" and light barrel. I am shooting that configuration since about 15 years and am very happy. The two I had/have just love 68gr Hornady BTHP and 75 A-Max/ELDM but also shoot cheap 50gr HP UMC very well.
Rather invest time and money in a better stock with AICS mag system to run the longer seated 75's. This stock can also be used with the 308 Lite.

Another option would be to re-barrel the 308 to tight twist 22-250. No bolt change needed. Have great long range performance with 75g-80gr.
I am always on the lookout for shot out or unloved T3's. Plenty 25-06 that have been hunted very hard where we live as well as 6.5x55 that nobody wants anymore. Make a great start for a semi custom rifle.

edi
 
Trying a new load for CTR.
My old one was VV N140 39,9 grains, ELD-X 178, Brass 51,00mm OAL 71.5mm, V0 = 724m/s

The new one will be:

VV N540 42,8-44,2 grains, ELD-X 178, Brass 51,00mm OAL 74.5mm, V0 expected to be round about 810m/s ( mag max lenghth is 75,12mm). ( test of loads within next two weeks )
 

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Trying a new load for CTR.
My old one was VV N140 39,9 grains, ELD-X 178, Brass 51,00mm OAL 71.5mm, V0 = 724m/s

The new one will be:

VV N540 42,8-44,2 grains, ELD-X 178, Brass 51,00mm OAL 74.5mm, V0 expected to be round about 810m/s ( mag max lenghth is 75,12mm). ( test of loads within next two weeks )
Pretty fast powder for that weight bullet.
I had really good results with N150 for 175 Scenars, tried some loads with N540 as well, but didn't get the same consistency, and ran into pressure much faster.
Don't have N550 in my closet currently, think that would be close to optimal.
 
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T3x Lite in 308, barrel cut to 19", Shooters World Precision, 45.5 grains, 155 Lapua Scenar at 2.830 OAL.

Velocity was 2,673 FPS, SD 10.4, ES 27 FPS. Which isn't bad for a 19" barrel.

4 shots at 100 yards with an Athlon Helos G2 2-12 scope with the 1" dot in the middle. Just covered the diamond and fired.

Was working up a replacement load for 45.5 Varget, and think I found it.

IMG_5955 (1).jpg
 
Hmmmm cool. All you did is add their enhanced mag catch?

And cool Arca bench vise thing! Tell me more.
As you know, i am a big fan of KRG.
So i received the kit, that i was able to modified with 2-parts the AICS chassis to eat to CTR/TRG magazine.
Job took about 15-minutes.
I have tested it now few times, and i just love it.
Need to find a TRG magazine now, just love the way this type of magazine works.
CTR magazine is not as good quality as TRG, no matter some one is saying, they are not the same magazine.
I have had few TRG magazine, and you can tell the difference when you hold them, CTR is made of not that good quality steel.
 
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As you know, i am a big fan of KRG.
So i received the kit, that i was able to modified with 2-parts the AICS chassis to eat to CTR/TRG magazine.
Job took about 15-minutes.
I have tested it now few times, and i just love it.
Need to find a TRG magazine now, just love the way this type of magazine works.
CTR magazine is not as good quality as TRG, no matter some one is saying, they are not the same magazine.
I have had few TRG magazine, and you can tell the difference when you hold them, CTR is made of not that good quality steel.
Cool. I’ve never handled a TRG mag, just a CTR mag. The CTR mag seemed as good a quality as my Accurate Mag AICS mags, but I believe you.

Maybe you should do a vid showing how you made it work. Sounds pretty easy.

Also, who made that Arca bench vise thing?
 
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Cool. I’ve never handled a TRG mag, just a CTR mag. The CTR mag seemed as good a quality as my Accurate Mag AICS mags, but I believe you.

Maybe you should do a vid showing how you made it work. Sounds pretty easy.

Also, who made that Arca bench vise thing?
I have should recorded the change, now it is done, but for sure i could do it again, it was not that difficult job to do.
TRG magazine material is better than CTR, the steel is better, and on CTR the mag bottom is plastic, TRG only thing is plastic, is the follower.
That beautiful vice is Rock Vice from Arrow Proucts USA.
Made like a Suisse watch, but in USA ;)
 
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I have should recorded the change, now it is done, but for sure i could do it again, it was not that difficult job to do.
TRG magazine material is better than CTR, the steel is better, and on CTR the mag bottom is plastic, TRG only thing is plastic, is the follower.
That beautiful vice is Rock Vice from Arrow Proucts USA.
Made like a Suisse watch, but in USA ;)
If I ever buy a c4 I might contact you for modding instructions!

I mainly shoot 204, so too bad Sako doesn’t make a 223 TRG mag. The Tikka CTR 223 works very well for 204. I’ve gotten 8 rounds in there no problem. 10 is a no go, but I should try 9 for the heck of it.

Thx for the info.
 
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If I ever buy a c4 I might contact you for modding instructions!

I mainly shoot 204, so too bad Sako doesn’t make a 223 TRG mag. The Tikka CTR 223 works very well for 204. I’ve gotten 8 rounds in there no problem. 10 is a no go, but I should try 9 for the heck of it.

Thx for the info.
I´ll be here my friend ;)
You know my IG and YT, so let me know when you need my help.
 
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Does anyone know anything about a trigger JARD is offering ?









Damnitman......their Match trigger can be ordered in 3oz.

Fukkamighty......it is pollen season here....I could sneeze and trip that one. :ROFLMAO:



I stripped my TAC A1 down last night to swap the rail, install a YoDave trigger spring and swap the grip afterwards.



That YoDave spring is capable of insanely light pull weight. I wound up pushing it up to the upper end of the adj range with the YoDave.

Then I stripped out one of the friggin Torx screw heads on the rail. Too aggravated to work on it any more tonight.

Gonna get after it over morning coffee tomorrow.





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My spring says "Elay Precision" on the safety instructions and how to. I'm hoping for a trigger with very little travel and breaks about 1.5 to 2 #0. That way all my rifles including a couple or AR's are all about the same
 
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Damnitman......their Match trigger can be ordered in 3oz.

Fukkamighty......it is pollen season here....I could sneeze and trip that one. :ROFLMAO:



I stripped my TAC A1 down last night to swap the rail, install a YoDave trigger spring and swap the grip afterwards.



That YoDave spring is capable of insanely light pull weight. I wound up pushing it up to the upper end of the adj range with the YoDave.

Then I stripped out one of the friggin Torx screw heads on the rail. Too aggravated to work on it any more tonight.

Gonna get after it over morning coffee tomorrow.





View attachment 8376056




View attachment 8376057
I have the YoDave installed on three of my Tikka rifles,,, that setup preforms well…👍👍
 
I’ve got the Lumley Arms springs and holy cow is the trigger good now. He gives you three different “weights” of springs in the package to try out.

They also have very nice Arctic trigger guard (for gloves, bigger hole & different shape). I own the silver version, but they make a black one too.

His stock photos of the trigger guard are down below. Sort of a pity I’ll be mainly a CTR-mag guy.
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Last night my Grayboe Phoenix showed up for my CTR in 308. I was really impressed with how it fit up getting the barreled action on the stock. The factory bottom metal fit up nice and tight, dummy rounds fed and cycled smoothly. I threw on my old Vortex PST gen 1 6-24 ffp and just need to get this zeroed. I can't begin to describe how much I like this stock more than I do the KRG Bravo I had it in prior to this. Best part was that when I weighed it with scope and empty mag it came in at 10.8 pounds. This rifle is going to be used as an all around backup for competitions, backup for hunting trips, and a primary rifle if I go to Mammoth again in 2025. It's a little heavy for a hunting rifle and a little light for a competition rig, but it's accurate enough for both and will eat 308 all day. I just need to give the whole setup a quick dusting and touch up with the krylon so it doesn't look all mismatched.
 

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i want to go to your range so bad lol
You are welcome, it ain´t even that cold here no more :D
Snow is still over 2 feet, but it is melting slowly.
If i had a snowmobile, the winter might ne nice time, but i dont have, and i hate this white shit anyways, more and more the older i get.
Worst thing in winter time is the darknes, it can go many months, that you won see the sun at all.
AND they still pick the Finland to be the happiest people in the world, again, 7th time in the row, i dont know where they are doing the enquiry.
Here where i live, 50 miles from russian border, the life ain´t fairytales.
But in the other hand, it could be much worst, so i should not complain.
Really waiting the summer to come, so i can go to the pit, this is my favourite place.
 
You are welcome, it ain´t even that cold here no more :D
Snow is still over 2 feet, but it is melting slowly.
If i had a snowmobile, the winter might ne nice time, but i dont have, and i hate this white shit anyways, more and more the older i get.
Worst thing in winter time is the darknes, it can go many months, that you won see the sun at all.
AND they still pick the Finland to be the happiest people in the world, again, 7th time in the row, i dont know where they are doing the enquiry.
Here where i live, 50 miles from russian border, the life ain´t fairytales.
But in the other hand, it could be much worst, so i should not complain.
Really waiting the summer to come, so i can go to the pit, this is my favourite place.

Finland is at the of my list if counties to move to if New Zealand continues to slide into oblivion.

I visited last year, foot for very long and barely left Helsinki but I throughly enjoyed the place.
 
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Well... I took a shot at blending all of the different colored items together and I think it turned out half way decent. I no sooner got done and realized that I had forgotten to put the bipod on the stock, so I've got one more spray paint project to look forward to. I already knew the rifle shot well in the factory stock and KRG Bravo, but this new Grayboe is the final home for this barreled action.
 

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Well... I took a shot at blending all of the different colored items together and I think it turned out half way decent. I no sooner got done and realized that I had forgotten to put the bipod on the stock, so I've got one more spray paint project to look forward to. I already knew the rifle shot well in the factory stock and KRG Bravo, but this new Grayboe is the final home for this barreled action.
Interesting result. I went with a digital camo which was more difficult than I originally envisioned lol. Turned out pretty good. The advantage to painting your own is that you can change it up whenever you want to.
 
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Does anyone know where I can buy a complete Tikka 223 bolt. I am converting calibers. I have tried links from older posts, and googled, and I am finding many are listed as "no longer available."

Thanks.
 
Does anyone know where I can buy a complete Tikka 223 bolt. I am converting calibers. I have tried links from older posts, and googled, and I am finding many are listed as "no longer available."

Thanks.

I've never used them, but ran across thier offerings a while back. They are in Canada, but I'd assume they will sell to the US. Also, it looks to be only the body, you'd have to swap out all the internals, etc. Almost be easier and more cost efficient just to buy a dang .223 Tikka, sadly.


edt: I've heard "rumors" that Unknown Munitions may be coming out with a tikka bolt with an interchangable bolt head. But no idea on that timeline. Would be a nice option if they did.
 
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I'd go for a new Tikka if the bolt requires swapping all the internals over. Chad from LRI had it figured out for that price to include a full bolt with no missing pieces. However the conversion from Canadian to American Dollars might offset the cost. I'd still want a fully assembled bolt though.