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Tikka T3 Thread

I did the screwdriver trick on my CTR magazine and it worked a threat on eliminating the front to back movement. There is still some side to side rattle , but a piece of electrical tape on each side has got it to a perfect fit .
Thanks to all those who responded to my post , my issues are fixed.
 
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Got the shorty out to 1k for the 2nd time with norma 143. ABMobile doesn’t have 143 golden target in it so having to use the pdm that’s been uploaded. Need to figure out how to do bc alterations, was .4mrad high of my output at 1k.
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Fun morning! Solid wind and the 143 going slow didn’t have any issues dealing with it.
 
Not enamored with the TikkaT3X recoil lug and the bolt release pin/spring assembly. Seems more work needs to done to improve stock to lug fit. The factory lug liter falls out of the stock….too damn loose. So, it has been replaced with a Mountain Tactical “ Bombproof “ lug. Plus, replaced the bolt release pin with drill bit of slightly larger in diameter. This is all regarding my 7MM RM Tikka. So far, not as impressed with this Tikka than my old Remington 700 Mountain rifle in 260AI. Time will tell.
BTW, my 260AI has many upgrades. It has accounted for many mounts on my walls. MTG
 

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Similar to talk of a t3/x receiver in a ctr stock + ctr mags:

Can a standard SA T3x Lite receiver be dropped into a CTR mag version KRG Bravo and used with CTR mags without any serious modifications? And is it always going to be "not quite as good" function/fit wise going down the modification route?

Or are the receivers one and the same with the only differences buried in the stock, barrel, bolt handle, etc?
 
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Similar to talk of a t3/x receiver in a ctr stock + ctr mags:

Can a standard SA T3x Lite receiver be dropped into a CTR mag version KRG Bravo and used with CTR mags without any serious modifications? And is it always going to be "not quite as good" function/fit wise going down the modification route?

Or are the receivers one and the same with the only differences buried in the stock, barrel, bolt handle, etc?
If the magazine retention spring is removed from under the trigger screw you're good to go. Keep if if you ever want to use the lite mag in the original stock.
t3 t3x trigger assembly - external spring kit-max-1000.png


For a good understanding of tikkas check out this post.
Tikka buying guide T3 thread #3273
Page 66. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/post-7301418
 
Similar to talk of a t3/x receiver in a ctr stock + ctr mags:

Can a standard SA T3x Lite receiver be dropped into a CTR mag version KRG Bravo and used with CTR mags without any serious modifications? And is it always going to be "not quite as good" function/fit wise going down the modification route?

Or are the receivers one and the same with the only differences buried in the stock, barrel, bolt handle, etc?
If you want to put a T3X receiver into any tikka chassis that uses AICS magazines, the only change you will need to do is use a long action bolt stop. This will open many more chassis options and might be more versatile for you.
I personally use this version in my Vision Tikka SA chassis. https://www.mountaintactical.com/shop/tikka-t3t3x-bolt-stop-long-action
I think it feeds MDT AICS mags with the binder plate just as well as CTR, but with more capacity options.
 
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If you want to put a T3X receiver into any tikka chassis that uses AICS magazines, the only change you will need to do is use a long action bolt stop. This will open many more chassis options and might be more versatile for you.
I personally use this version in my Vision Tikka SA chassis. https://www.mountaintactical.com/shop/tikka-t3t3x-bolt-stop-long-action
I think it feeds MDT AICS mags with the binder plate just as well as CTR, but with more capacity options.
Most likely just dropping a CTR using CTR mags into the chassis, but wanted to know for future reference or any potential future swap outs with other T3/x.

Regardless, I'm glad it's that easy.
 
Nice ! Are those the Next-gen (3?) vision forends?

The magwell area looks alot cleaner on these...or am I thinking of the chassis versions?
 
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Pardon if this has been asked before but my searches are bringing up nothing of real use.
I'm considering adding a .223 bolt gun to my collection for shooting paper and steel at 100-300 yds. Looking for a AICS mag feed, heavy and long barrel, usable trigger. From my research so far, it sounds like the T3X varmint of super Varmint in 24" would be good choices. Price seems to be $700 ish more to go to the Super Varmint. From what I read, the SV adds a adjustable ( better quality?) stock, 0 MOa rail, Fluted bolt. Is that it?
Part of me thinks that the rail and aftermarket stocks/chassis ( KRG or Oryx) would be a better way to go but I don't know if I'm missing anything. Anybody have the super varmint ( or both) to comment? Any other T3X worth looing at?
 
Pardon if this has been asked before but my searches are bringing up nothing of real use.
I'm considering adding a .223 bolt gun to my collection for shooting paper and steel at 100-300 yds. Looking for a AICS mag feed, heavy and long barrel, usable trigger. From my research so far, it sounds like the T3X varmint of super Varmint in 24" would be good choices. Price seems to be $700 ish more to go to the Super Varmint. From what I read, the SV adds a adjustable ( better quality?) stock, 0 MOa rail, Fluted bolt. Is that it?
Part of me thinks that the rail and aftermarket stocks/chassis ( KRG or Oryx) would be a better way to go but I don't know if I'm missing anything. Anybody have the super varmint ( or both) to comment? Any other T3X worth looing at?

I have the .223 varmint in bravo stock I really like it. I recently had the barrel chopped and threaded for a suppressor. Only problem with varmint is the barrel isn’t threaded.
 

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I have the .223 varmint in bravo stock I really like it. I recently had the barrel chopped and threaded for a suppressor. Only problem with varmint is the barrel isn’t threaded.
Nice looking rifle. I always liked the Bravo. I still have one for my Bergara Premier .
Good observation on the Varmint vs Super Varmint. I hadn't caught the threaded barrel. (Not sure I need/want the threads for my use but it's a consideration.)
 
Pardon if this has been asked before but my searches are bringing up nothing of real use.
I'm considering adding a .223 bolt gun to my collection for shooting paper and steel at 100-300 yds. Looking for a AICS mag feed, heavy and long barrel, usable trigger. From my research so far, it sounds like the T3X varmint of super Varmint in 24" would be good choices. Price seems to be $700 ish more to go to the Super Varmint. From what I read, the SV adds a adjustable ( better quality?) stock, 0 MOa rail, Fluted bolt. Is that it?
Part of me thinks that the rail and aftermarket stocks/chassis ( KRG or Oryx) would be a better way to go but I don't know if I'm missing anything. Anybody have the super varmint ( or both) to comment? Any other T3X worth looing at?
I had a Tikka Varmint 223 (not Super Varmint) with 8 twist. Never got the performance out of factory barrel I wanted so I pulled factory 223 barrel, installed a barrel nut prefit 26 inch 7 twist MTU threaded and dropped into KRG Bravo with a trigger spring.

Another option for you is buying the cheapest Tikka T3 223 (pencil barrel) and use prefit 223 threaded barrel in a KRG Bravo (or takeoff CTR)
 

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Pardon if this has been asked before but my searches are bringing up nothing of real use.
I'm considering adding a .223 bolt gun to my collection for shooting paper and steel at 100-300 yds. Looking for a AICS mag feed, heavy and long barrel, usable trigger. From my research so far, it sounds like the T3X varmint of super Varmint in 24" would be good choices. Price seems to be $700 ish more to go to the Super Varmint. From what I read, the SV adds a adjustable ( better quality?) stock, 0 MOa rail, Fluted bolt. Is that it?
Part of me thinks that the rail and aftermarket stocks/chassis ( KRG or Oryx) would be a better way to go but I don't know if I'm missing anything. Anybody have the super varmint ( or both) to comment? Any other T3X worth looing at?
The Super Varmint has a two stage trigger, same that is found in the Tac A1. However, I believe that the Tac A1 has a three position safety whereas the SV has the typical two position.

Before I replace the already-good trigger I am going to first investigate getting a lighter spring, and Lumley Arms has expressed interest in figuring this out if I send them the stock springs. Haven’t gotten around to that.

The SV stock is way better than the black Tikka stocks. Actually is stiff and the adjustable cheek piece is nice.

The SV, in stock form, also cannot take any other mag other than the plastic Tikka hunting mags. Of course, dropping it into a Bravo chassis fixes that and allows for either AICS or CTR mags, depending on the model you buy.

Someone with a mill could easily convert the SV stock to CTR mags with the appropriate bottom metal. Not sure about the feasibility of converting that stock to AICS.
 
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Quick question. Would my Tikka T3 Tactical barreled action drop right into a McMillan stock inletted for a CTR without any modification to the stock or receiver? I read I'd have to remove the T3's mag retaining spring/clip. I'd be using the CTR bottom metal/mags. Thanks in advance. Below is my gun.
 

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Quick question. Would my Tikka T3 Tactical barreled action drop right into a McMillan stock inletted for a CTR without any modification to the stock or receiver? I read I'd have to remove the T3's mag retaining spring/clip. I'd be using the CTR bottom metal/mags. Thanks in advance. Below is my gun.
This should work OK if you are running the t3 tactical in .223, but if you are running it in .308, you may need the (t3x) notch milled into your action This notch was put in for the CTR mag in 308 to fit properly, IIRC. Some people have said they got away without this, but I would do some google searches on t3 vs t3x for more comfort before making a decision. YMMV and caveat emptor and all that.
 
^ Thanks for that info. Yes, mine is a .308, I'm not too keen on doing any receiver surgery on it. I guess I'll look into it further. Thanks again.
 
I finally got to shoot the CTR with the bravo stock. The range I went to was closed for maintenance so we just shot prone on some public land. First time I’ve ever dialed a scope for elevation. Zeroed for 100 yards, dialed up .5 mil and hit an 8 inch plate nine out of nine times at 200. I know that’s not a big deal for you guys on here, but now I’m hooked. Can’t wait to start stretching it out.
IMG_3299.jpeg

The scope looks out of level in this picture, but it’s not. Must be the camera angle.
IMG_3307.jpeg

This picture shows two hits from my buddies 30-06 and my last 3 to the right. I was aiming at the bolt hole due to a steady right to left wind.
IMG_3308.jpeg
 
Hey guys,
I need the omniscient rifle hive minds help.
Has anyone had trouble with feeding cartridges longer than 3.4“ in a T3x?

I’m getting my T3x rebarreled. Chamber will be a .30-06 again and I’m thinking about having the gunsmith cut the throat long for 212 gr ELD-X at 3.45“ oal.

The MDT magazine allows for 3.6“ oal, I’m just afraid of the tip of the bullet hitting the end of the barrel instead of the chamber at this length.

Cheers
Lars
 
Has anyone had trouble with feeding cartridges longer than 3.4“ in a T3x?
Not able to answer your question directly, but from previous research on SAUM COAL issues, reported action length of the Tikka is ±3.4 (give or take possibly a small amount), so I would research this further for your 30-06 project. Let us know if you find definitive numbers.
 
Hey guys,
I need the omniscient rifle hive minds help.
Has anyone had trouble with feeding cartridges longer than 3.4“ in a T3x?

I’m getting my T3x rebarreled. Chamber will be a .30-06 again and I’m thinking about having the gunsmith cut the throat long for 212 gr ELD-X at 3.45“ oal.

The MDT magazine allows for 3.6“ oal, I’m just afraid of the tip of the bullet hitting the end of the barrel instead of the chamber at this length.

Cheers
Lars
I know some have cut a v notch.

Quoted from @clcustom1911 in another thread. I remember seeing pics.
If I were to re-barrel my Tikka T3x from 7mm RemMag I'd probably do 7 SAUM. The 3.41" OAL restriction of the bottom of the action inlet would be a deciding factor.

Unless you're like me and you took hours to hand file a notch in the bottom of the action to allow OAL of up to 3.63" with AICS mags ?
 
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Hey guys,
I need the omniscient rifle hive minds help.
Has anyone had trouble with feeding cartridges longer than 3.4“ in a T3x?

I’m getting my T3x rebarreled. Chamber will be a .30-06 again and I’m thinking about having the gunsmith cut the throat long for 212 gr ELD-X at 3.45“ oal.

The MDT magazine allows for 3.6“ oal, I’m just afraid of the tip of the bullet hitting the end of the barrel instead of the chamber at this length.

Cheers
Lars
Try it as it is first, it might work. I would say the issue is that the magazine is internally a bit longer than the action cut out not that the bullet tip would hit the barrel. The little radius or v notch is the solution as others have said. Bergara have that in some of their actions as standard. I would just do the that notch anyway as well as re-work the feed ramp a little. Not even bother getting it re-proofed (it was always like that...). On your rifle the magazine is set back as far as it can go meaning there is only maybe 3mm magazine over stand in the bottom. With the notch done you can use full magazine length.
btw... if you are getting your T3 re-barrelled it will be proofed anyway (German rule), why not put the notch in before proofing and all will be "legal". ?
edi
 
Hey guys,
I need the omniscient rifle hive minds help.
Has anyone had trouble with feeding cartridges longer than 3.4“ in a T3x?

I’m getting my T3x rebarreled. Chamber will be a .30-06 again and I’m thinking about having the gunsmith cut the throat long for 212 gr ELD-X at 3.45“ oal.

The MDT magazine allows for 3.6“ oal, I’m just afraid of the tip of the bullet hitting the end of the barrel instead of the chamber at this length.

Cheers
Lars
3.41" is your maximum OAL allowed up through the bottom of a T3x action. I found this out by happenstance when I was loading 183gr Sierra Matchkings. I have a T3x in a Manners T4 stock with a CDI bottom metal which allows me to use AICS magazines which allow a very long OAL.

I loaded the 183's to about 3.6" which was about 0.020 off the lands. I load the magazine and try to chamber a round.. no joy. I look amd see the round still in the magazine and the nose was pointing downward because the tip of the bullet wasn't clearing the bottom inlet of the action.

I was full of great ideas, so I decided to file a groove/V notch so the bullet tips would rise up through the action unimpeded. It worked, BUT I soon round out I needed to tune all my magazines to give all rounds of all types a slight nose-up angle, otherwise I'd have some rounds, like my preferred Berger 168 Classic Hunter nose-dive into that notch.

So, my "fix" for 1 type of bullet ended up causing malfunctions for other bullets, which required other fixes to fix the fix.

You do your thing. To he quite honest, I wouldn't hand cut that V notch again, even though everything works fine on my rifle now.

I may actually get a professional TIG welder to fill in that notch.... or I'll be stupid and do it myself 😅

Stay tuned for more Shade Tree Gunsmithery brought to you by our sole sponsor: Brute Force & Ignorance.
 
Hey guys,
I need the omniscient rifle hive minds help.
Has anyone had trouble with feeding cartridges longer than 3.4“ in a T3x?

I’m getting my T3x rebarreled. Chamber will be a .30-06 again and I’m thinking about having the gunsmith cut the throat long for 212 gr ELD-X at 3.45“ oal.

The MDT magazine allows for 3.6“ oal, I’m just afraid of the tip of the bullet hitting the end of the barrel instead of the chamber at this length.

Cheers
Lars
Might be better off single feeding unless that's all your going to shoot mainly.
 
T3x .223 Varmint, KRG BRAVO CTR, KRG NVMC, KRG ARCA Spigot, KRG ARCA rail, KRG/TRG Folding butt stock, Sterk swept back bolt handle, Murphy 20moa stainless rail, Nightforce Unimount 20moa 34mm 1.54", Zeiss S3 LRP 4-25x50 ZF-MRi #16, MDT GRND-POD.

Still need to thread it, second T3x .223 build but this one will keep the factory barrel and will be fed everything
 

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T3x .223 Varmint, KRG BRAVO CTR, KRG NVMC, KRG ARCA Spigot, KRG ARCA rail, KRG/TRG Folding butt stock, Sterk swept back bolt handle, Murphy 20moa stainless rail, Nightforce Unimount 20moa 34mm 1.54", Zeiss S3 LRP 4-25x50 ZF-MRi #16, MDT GRND-POD.

Still need to thread it, second T3x .223 build but this one will keep the factory barrel and will be fed everything
That's a fucking 🔥 setup. Put a good suppressor on there and you're shitt'n in tall cotton.

I really want a 223 bolt gun.
 
Hi everyone, I’m just trying to figure out what significant differences there are between a T3X CTR and a T3X Super Varmint. Anything major. The barrel looks chunkier on the Super Varmint
 
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Hi everyone, I’m just trying to figure out what significant differences there are between a T3X CTR and a T3X Super Varmint. Anything major. The barrel looks chunkier on the Super Varmint
I believe the mag is different……I own the ctr.. not the varmint…
 
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I
Hi everyone, I’m just trying to figure out what significant differences there are between a T3X CTR and a T3X Super Varmint. Anything major. The barrel looks chunkier on the Super Varmint
I believe the sv barrel is heavier but not by a ton. Sv has single stack mag. Sv has 2 stage trigger. Looks like cheek piece is adjustable. Bolt is fluted

Both look threaded. Both have 0 moa rail that is epoxied on.

CTR has single stage trigger. 10 round magazine.

Don't remember if the stock on sv is less flimsy but I think it had some texture to it.
 
Just thought I'd post up my latest Tikka .

I love looking at all the amazing Tikka's that you guys post up , but for my usage Chassis's and large magnification scopes just aren't required and can actually be a hinderance .
I own four Tikka's - T3 6.5x55 Lite / T3x 6.5 CM Lite but now with a CTR stock-Mag / T1x 22LR / and now a T3 Lite .223
Recently this .223 T3 Lite came up forsale at a great price ( almost to good to be true )
I hesitated , but at the price I couldn't really lose because even if it was thrashed the action value would cover my costs .
The original owner said that it had only shot about 250 rounds and had been carried way more than it had been shot ( doesn't every seller say that ) .
Here's a pic of the original advertisement , my interest was magnified because it had factory iron sights , which for here is unusual and even more rare for a .223

lAkji7A.jpg


I payed the money and received the Rifle , put a EGW rail on it / Ken Farrel rings / Zeiss Duralyt 3-12 scope
Yesterday before doing my days work on the Tractor at our property I pulled it out of the case and Bore sighted it at 50 yards .
I had looked through my factory .223 ammo selection that I have in the cupboard and grabbed 4 different loads , I will be reloading for this Rifle but just wanted to see that it goes " Bang " and vaguely hit's where it's pointed before spending more time/effort and money on it .

A couple of shots at 50 yards with some Winchester ammo got me centred and I move back to 100yards .

Now at this stage the only mods I had done were a 1 1/2 pound trigger spring and a Waters Magazine that allows you load your rounds out much longer than the Factory Mag .

pNvIQcs.jpg


kMXGWuO.jpg


At 100 yards I lined up the homemade target ( cardboard and 1/2 inch squares of electrical tape ) and sent three rounds of the Winchester down range .
Not a great result and I was a bit worried , looking at the remaining boxes I had with me I picked up a box of Sako 69 gr with the thought that Sako and Tikka are joined at the Hip so maybe it would shoot better.
I sent three shots and they went into 1/2 inch .
I packed up and went to work with a smile on my face .
Was that group a fluke ( probably/maybe ) three shots isn't exactly conclusive , but it absolutely helped me to decide to spend time and effort reloading for this Rifle .

djqiuFq.jpg
 
Does someone make an aftermarket recoil pad for the .308 t3x lite compact stock?
 
I notice that you have a rear monopod on all three of those Rifles.
Could you give a review / advice of their usefulness and performance.
I’ve never used one and would be interested in your opinion .

Cheers

Ken
Monopod is nice to have, it will go every where you rifles goes, every time.
Like if you forgot your rear bag, you still have monopod.
I like the monopod on hard table, it will be nice to have the precision adjustment you can make with it.
I was shooting with my 2 sons today, we only used monopod on the zombie rock chucks olympics :D
 
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Monopod is nice to have, it will go every where you rifles goes, every time.
Like if you forgot your rear bag, you still have monopod.
I like the monopod on hard table, it will be nice to have the precision adjustment you can make with it.
I was shooting with my 2 sons today, we only used monopod on the zombie rock chucks olympics :D

How do you like the monopods in terrain /out of table? I had one in some of my service rifles (TRG with a foldable stock) and never really found a way to make the most of it.

At the end of the day I always felt like I was wasting time with the adjusting and eventual readjusting, especially in multi-target situations
 
Good day gentleman

I have a Tikka T3x SuperVarmint in 223. Great fun to shoot and even shoot 1000yds using ELDM 75gr bullets. I just don't seem to get the precision with 53gr VMax bullets.
Screenshot_20230601-062646.png


Below is a photo of the leade. I have never seem anything like this. Been like this from new. It appears as if the leading edge of the lands have been machined away.

Have anyone seen anything like this before? What is the purpose? How in darnation do you even do that?
IMG-20230605-WA0007.jpg
 
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That would not go away even with the hardest hand lapping.
But if it shoots, i would not mind of that.
It looks to me, that the finishing has not done to the end, cold hammer forged is the way Tikka makes barrels.
It will go away after few hundred rounds, or so.