Tikka T3 Thread

[viking78]

I could order a suppressor from US, but for sure i would be not able to do that, because i am not a US citizen, and i could not get the suppressor tax stamp, but if i could, i could order one and get it to Finland with a 43€ import licence from a Finnish police.
But if i would not have a gun licence in Finland, i would be not able to do it, suppressor is kind of a firearms part that needs a licence in Finland, these use to be like a licence free items before 2016, when they did made the rules a bit, and it is a firearm part, and needs a
license to buy one in Finland, but not a extra papers etc, as long as you have a firearm licence, no matter is it rimfire, a shotgun you can buy the suppressor you want, and as many as you wish, for sure you wont need these a dozen, just a few, maybe five or six

But yes, for the can i have on the end of my .260Rem Varmint Tikka.
This end cap i a proto version, only one port and it needs to point upward.
It has a timing nut behind the brake, so it is easy to fix to the right angle.
I have not take a shot with this can yet, it is raining, same shit tomorrow, and even more after that.
So waiting for the right weather to go out and do the test, kind of looking forward to get and do it
The suppressor baffles are stainless, shell is alloy and i do believe that the muzzle is also stainless.
There are also tiny holes on the other side of the port of the brake, maybe 2mm.
I am doing a video of this can, and i can add it here, if you want so see, how it does performed.

 

[LeftyJason]

I could order a suppressor from US, but for sure i would be not able to do that, because i am not a US citizen, and i could not get the suppressor tax stamp, but if i could, i could order one and get it to Finland with a 43€ import licence from a Finnish police.
But if i would not have a gun licence in Finland, i would be not able to do it, suppressor is kind of a firearms part that needs a licence in Finland, these use to be like a licence free items before 2016, when they did made the rules a bit, and it is a firearm part, and needs a
license to buy one in Finland, but not a extra papers etc, as long as you have a firearm licence, no matter is it rimfire, a shotgun you can buy the suppressor you want, and as many as you wish, for sure you wont need these a dozen, just a few, maybe five or six

But yes, for the can i have on the end of my .260Rem Varmint Tikka.
This end cap i a proto version, only one port and it needs to point upward.
It has a timing nut behind the brake, so it is easy to fix to the right angle.
I have not take a shot with this can yet, it is raining, same shit tomorrow, and even more after that.
So waiting for the right weather to go out and do the test, kind of looking forward to get and do it
The suppressor baffles are stainless, shell is alloy and i do believe that the muzzle is also stainless.
There are also tiny holes on the other side of the port of the brake, maybe 2mm.
I am doing a video of this can, and i can add it here, if you want so see, how it does performed.

We can't import nfa except for specific purposes. Essentially LEO only.

"With certain exceptions, NFA firearms may only be imported for the use of the United States or any
State or possession or political subdivision thereof such as a law enforcement agency; for scientific or
research purposes; solely for testing or use as a model by a registered manufacturer; or solely for use as
a sample by a registered importer or registered dealer."

Go to 1:07:09 to 1:16:00 in this vid for a better explanation.

 

[Gogga]

Ironically it looks like the UK are about to deregulate suppressors and we have some of the most restrictive regulations in the world. Additionally the MOD have just discovered 6.5CM bullets carry a lot further than .308 and have restricted use until further notice on military ranges.

 

[carbonbased]

It is another Finnish company, Oulun Työstökeskus ArmaSe-T.

Effing rolls off my English-speaking tongue lol

Just giving you shit. Your English is 10000000x better than my Finnish. Hats off for you doing English-speaking vids…they’re fun to watch!

 

[Charlie112]

This is not a Ase Utra suppressor.
It is another Finnish company, Oulun Työstökeskus ArmaSe-T.
It is a proto version with a muzzle brake, not a production model.
View attachment 8714614

Copy, Thanks for the info.

 

[Taylorbok]

Does anyone know if this piece on a Tikka firing pin is available separate.
The entire assembly isn't terrible but I thought maybe save a couple bucks.

I punched a primer and it broke the little tab off that holds the shroud on, purely aesthetic but I think it looks better with the shroud on.

 

[Charlie112]

Does anyone know if this piece on a Tikka firing pin is available separate.
The entire assembly isn't terrible but I thought maybe save a couple bucks.

I punched a primer and it broke the little tab off that holds the shroud on, purely aesthetic but I think it looks better with the shroud on.
View attachment 8716452

That’s a good question,, I bet Lefty Jason will answer that for you in a bit….

 

[Eo12]

Just got done installing the barrel on my sons tikka and just in time for an axis deer hunting trip. 18” xcaliber 6br, shooting the 105 bergers. Got high expectations for this barrel after waiting over 3 months for it to arrive.

 

[LeftyJason]

Does anyone know if this piece on a Tikka firing pin is available separate.
The entire assembly isn't terrible but I thought maybe save a couple bucks.

I punched a primer and it broke the little tab off that holds the shroud on, purely aesthetic but I think it looks better with the shroud on.
View attachment 8716452

You're in luck! Numrich has it.

Cocking Piece, Blued, Used Factory Original

TIKKA T3 Cocking Piece, Blued, Used Factory Original

www.gunpartscorp.com

Otherwise you have to get a complete firing pin.

Tikka T3 / T3X Firing Pin Assembly

Check out the deal on Tikka T3 / T3X Firing Pin Assembly at MGW

www.midwestgunworks.com

https://jaoutdoors.com/product/tikka-t3-t3x-firing-pin-assembly/

Or try to fight to get one from Beretta. These are easier. I personally haven't had to mess with them.

That’s a good question,, I bet Lefty Jason will answer that for you in a bit….

Hahaha. I didn't have an answer right off the top of my head but did a little bit of looking.

 

[lash]

You're in luck! Numrich has it.

Cocking Piece, Blued, Used Factory Original

TIKKA T3 Cocking Piece, Blued, Used Factory Original

www.gunpartscorp.com

Otherwise you have to get a complete firing pin.

Tikka T3 / T3X Firing Pin Assembly

Check out the deal on Tikka T3 / T3X Firing Pin Assembly at MGW

www.midwestgunworks.com

https://jaoutdoors.com/product/tikka-t3-t3x-firing-pin-assembly/

Or try to fight to get one from Beretta. These are easier. I personally haven't had to mess with them.

Hahaha. I didn't have an answer right off the top of my head but did a little bit of looking.

We all tend to forget about numrich arms, but I’ve found many an odd piece there.

 

[viking78]

Does anyone know if this piece on a Tikka firing pin is available separate.
The entire assembly isn't terrible but I thought maybe save a couple bucks.

I punched a primer and it broke the little tab off that holds the shroud on, purely aesthetic but I think it looks better with the shroud on.
View attachment 8716452

No.

The firing pin will only come as assembled, as it shown in the picture.
I have asked this from the factory last year.
I was, still am iterested to do a dual spring for Tikka firing pin, like there is for Remington 700.
But not sure will it ever work, since that Tikka spring is so short, even the firing pin is so long.
Tubb design.

 

[R_Swanson]

Any recommendations of gunsmiths people have used other than LRI for Tikka barrel removal that salvages the barrel? I also want to get 2 bolts and a barrel fluted, and some cerakote work.

I was thinking of contacting Unknown Munitions and J/A outdoors... they both seem to be right near each other and may use Kampfeld Customs, from my research. I know they both resell Tikka Barrels so I assume they remove them without a relief cut.

Looking for any recommendations / other options.

 

[tow2atm]

SAC built 284Win
Tikka long action

Is that a MT bolt handle and knob? Nice looking set up.

 

[david walter]

It’s just not that complicated to remove a barrel. Go back a few pages and there’s a whole narrative about how to do it. It’s easy if you take your time.

Speaking as someone who is well into the high 20s on barrel removals and swaps on T3 action, maybe even the low 30s.

And I’m not a gunsmith. Nor did I sleep at a holiday inn.

 

[R_Swanson]

It’s just not that complicated to remove a barrel. Go back a few pages and there’s a whole narrative about how to do it. It’s easy if you take your time.

Speaking as someone who is well into the high 20s on barrel removals and swaps on T3 action, maybe even the low 30s.

And I’m not a gunsmith. Nor did I sleep at a holiday inn.

Good for you. I've tried 2 of them, they weren't budging. I'd rather pay someone than deal with it, and you might have noted that I have stuff to get fluted anyways.

Appreciate your non-helpful answer though.

 

[tacoman69]

Good for you. I've tried 2 of them, they weren't budging. I'd rather pay someone than deal with it, and you might have noted that I have stuff to get fluted anyways.

Appreciate your non-helpful answer though.

I'm with you, if I was just doing one id send it to someone like kampfield to get it off or find a local smith with all the tools already to get it off. Last one I soaked for a week and still needed a pipe wrench to get it off destroying any future resell value.

 

[david walter]

Thanks for the sarcastic reply.

I remain unsure what people think the gunsmith has that you don't have?

I once asked Long Rifles how they do it, and they said a good barrel vise, an internal action wrench, a large 3/4" socket wrench, and a pipe of some sort to get additional leverage. Wrap the barrel in the vise with some rough paper (I use a cut down paper towel core) for additional gription, and to prevent marring of the barrel. I also have my barrel vise bolted to a 8 foot 2x4 that I stand on one end, and put the other end under something heavy (like my safe) for additional leverage.

How do you think Tikka installed them in the first place?

And, you can just send the parts to be fluted without the action attached.

Was trying to save you some $$ and give you an additional skill.

But you do you.

Good for you. I've tried 2 of them, they weren't budging. I'd rather pay someone than deal with it, and you might have noted that I have stuff to get fluted anyways.

Appreciate your non-helpful answer though.

 

[lash]

Thanks for the sarcastic reply.

I remain unsure what people think the gunsmith has that you don't have?

I once asked Long Rifles how they do it, and they said a good barrel vise, an internal action wrench, a large 3/4" socket wrench, and a pipe of some sort to get additional leverage. Wrap the barrel in the vise with some rough paper (I use a cut down paper towel core) for additional gription, and to prevent marring of the barrel. I also have my barrel vise bolted to a 8 foot 2x4 that I stand on one end, and put the other end under something heavy (like my safe) for additional leverage.

How do you think Tikka installed them in the first place?

And, you can just send the parts to be fluted without the action attached.

Was trying to save you some $$ and give you an additional skill.

But you do you.

Yeah, his sarcasm was totally unwarranted and you provided him with a sensible option. But you just can’t help some people.

 

[kabarNC]

Is that a MT bolt handle and knob? Nice looking set up.

Thank you. That's a Sterk handle and knob.

 

[R_Swanson]

Thanks for the sarcastic reply.

I remain unsure what people think the gunsmith has that you don't have?

I once asked Long Rifles how they do it, and they said a good barrel vise, an internal action wrench, a large 3/4" socket wrench, and a pipe of some sort to get additional leverage. Wrap the barrel in the vise with some rough paper (I use a cut down paper towel core) for additional gription, and to prevent marring of the barrel. I also have my barrel vise bolted to a 8 foot 2x4 that I stand on one end, and put the other end under something heavy (like my safe) for additional leverage.

How do you think Tikka installed them in the first place?

And, you can just send the parts to be fluted without the action attached.

Was trying to save you some $$ and give you an additional skill.

But you do you.

Jesus Christ, SH does not f'n change... someone asks a questions... 10 pages ensue how their QUESTION was wrong in the first place, and they should be doing something totally different. This place has more know-it-alls per square inch outside of f'n Washington DC in the entire US.

I know how to take a barrel off, as you pointed out, its not rocket science. When I rebuilt my Land Cruiser, I did everything... minus having the diffs re-geared and lockers installed. Couldn't I have done the same thing as my guy, if I bought the tools and followed the instructions? Yes... but he's done it 5 thousand times, he already has the tools, and I was more than happy to pay for his expertise.

LRI (and other smiths) have big, beefy 500 dollar barrel vises (LRI sells them here) secured to a very stable workspace with tons of room to apply leverage, etc. I do not. Not all of us have 4,000 sq ft pole barns, or even garages with tons of work space. I have the 80 dollar barrel vise from ebay (that everyone recommends) that I put in my Wilton Vise that works great to install barrels, but does not allow the torque necessary to remove a Tikka barrel. I could buy the LRI vise (or the high end SAC, etc), reconfigure my damn garage and build a new workbench to mount it, and remove it myself...

Or I could send it to LRI for 50 dollars per action/barrel. Which is actually the more logical solution?

Now that you know my life story, I hope my decision making around Tikka barrel removal and preference to send them out makes sense to you. I know it will help me sleep at night if it does.

Yeah, his sarcasm was totally unwarranted and you provided him with a sensible option. But you just can’t help some people.

Yeah, he was tons of help. Good call.

 

[R_Swanson]

I'm with you, if I was just doing one id send it to someone like kampfield to get it off or find a local smith with all the tools already to get it off. Last one I soaked for a week and still needed a pipe wrench to get it off destroying any future resell value.

So Kampfeld can save the barrel? My 6.5CM CTR is a shooter, and I want to salvage that barrel for sure. The other I don't care about, except that I presume someone will pay ~60 bucks for it, which would be cool but doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things.

 

[lash]

Jesus Christ, SH does not f'n change... someone asks a questions... 10 pages ensue how their QUESTION was wrong in the first place, and they should be doing something totally different. This place has more know-it-alls per square inch outside of f'n Washington DC in the entire US.

I know how to take a barrel off, as you pointed out, its not rocket science. When I rebuilt my Land Cruiser, I did everything... minus having the diffs re-geared and lockers installed. Couldn't I have done the same thing as my guy, if I bought the tools and followed the instructions? Yes... but he's done it 5 thousand times, he already has the tools, and I was more than happy to pay for his expertise.

LRI (and other smiths) have big, beefy 500 dollar barrel vises (LRI sells them here) secured to a very stable workspace with tons of room to apply leverage, etc. I do not. Not all of us have 4,000 sq ft pole barns, or even garages with tons of work space. I have the 80 dollar barrel vise from ebay (that everyone recommends) that I put in my Wilton Vise that works great to install barrels, but does not allow the torque necessary to remove a Tikka barrel. I could buy the LRI vise (or the high end SAC, etc), reconfigure my damn garage and build a new workbench to mount it, and remove it myself...

Or I could send it to LRI for 50 dollars per action/barrel. Which is actually the more logical solution?

Now that you know my life story, I hope my decision making around Tikka barrel removal and preference to send them out makes sense to you. I know it will help me sleep at night if it does.



Yeah, he was tons of help. Good call.

You seem a bit tetchy today.

And you are right, SH is just the same. Cunts like you ask a valid question. One person offers up another valid option. So instead of saying thank you and moving on, you go all sarcastic because you already had an answer and can’t stand if someone doesn’t do exactly as you say or want.

Grow the fuck up already or go somewhere else where people appreciate being abused for offering advice. Tata!

 

[david walter]

@R_Swanson,

You could have just said “I’m not smart enough or strong enough to do that” and moved along with life.

But you went full retard.

Nice.

 

[R_Swanson]

You seem a bit tetchy today.

And you are right, SH is just the same. Cunts like you ask a valid question. One person offers up another valid option. So instead of saying thank you and moving on, you go all sarcastic because you already had an answer and can’t stand if someone doesn’t do exactly as you say or want.

Grow the fuck up already or go somewhere else where people appreciate being abused for offering advice. Tata!

Still neither of you have offered up a smith you know of.... so we're still at ZERO help so far. Keep adding up those posts though bro, you're almost at 14k!

 

[R_Swanson]

@R_Swanson,

You could have just said “I’m not smart enough or strong enough to do that” and moved along with life.

But you went full retard.

Nice.

Still sticking with your dumbass logic, eh?

50 bucks doesn't affect my life, much easier to find a smith than the other options (noted in my post above so 85 IQ individuals can understand)... but hey... if this concept is too complicated for you, I get it.

 

[lash]

Still sticking with your dumbass logic, eh?

50 bucks doesn't affect my life, much easier to find a smith than the other options (noted in my post above so 85 IQ individuals can understand)... but hey... if this concept is too complicated for you, I get it.

Since you already have at least 2-3 knowledge smiths to spend your money with, why are you still here? You just like the attention, don’t you? Admit it.

 

[R_Swanson]

Since you already have at least 2-3 knowledge smiths to spend your money with, why are you still here? You just like the attention, don’t you? Admit it.

I have one, LRI, and they are backed up. I asked if anyone had used any others, and mentioned I thought that two companies that service the Tikka market may use one in Idaho, but have have no real evidence... so I was wondering if any of the members here, in this 272 page thread, could offer any experience with any smiths that remove Tikka barrels without relief cuts and without marking up the barrel.

Listen, I understand reading comprehension at, I'd say an 8th grade level (TOPS) can be tough... but if you slow down, take your time, and read for content and understand that sentences may have 2 or 3 conjoining thoughts within one general theme, you'll get there.

________

If you, or anyone else here actually has first hand experience with any smiths (other than LRI, which I mentioned) that removes Tikka factory barrels without a relief cut and without beating up the barrel, I'd still like that information... lol.

 

[david walter]

And Kampfeld, which you acknowledged above. That 85 IQ is holding you down.

 

[R_Swanson]

And Kampfeld, which you acknowledged above. That 85 IQ is holding you down.

Incorrect, I speculated that Kampfeld is who JA uses, but I had no proof, so came here and asked if people had any experience with them or any others, etc.

You know, the point of a forum.... which you guys attempted to lecture me about earlier.

 

[lash]

Incorrect, I speculated that Kampfeld is who JA uses, but I had no proof, so came here and asked if people had any experience with them or any others, etc.

You know, the point of a forum.... which you guys attempted to lecture me about earlier.

Incorrect. We attempted to point out that you were unnecessarily being a dick. But apparently you don’t learn.

Well, apparently you want to argue more than I do. So enjoy your non answers.

 

[carbonbased]

If you, or anyone else here actually has first hand experience with any smiths (other than LRI, which I mentioned) that removes Tikka factory barrels without a relief cut and without beating up the barrel, I'd still like that information... lol.

I got nothing for gunsmith recce. But here are some tips from someone who’s fucked the process up despite beforehand reading and reading and reading and watching vids and vids and vids about how to do it.

And then, after failure, I had a gunsmith fuck it up!

Using a smith:
Ask if he uses an external action wrench, which I gather should be used after a certain amount of torque, as an internal one can start damaging the action at some point.

If he uses an external one, ask how he attaches it to the action. As in, on the vertical flats or on the action top and bottom?

Because my guy did the latter, didn’t tighten it down enough, and rounded off some of the factory STEEL pic rail! Ugh. He made it right but Jesus!

That was on a second Tikka that had the barrel taken off as I could not, for the life of me, get my Short Action Customs Modular barrel vise to grip the slippery Cerakote of a SV Tikka. Used rosin, drywall tape, heat from torch, slapping it repeatedly with my tiny penis, etc. Nada.

Doing it yourself:
If you or some other future reader of this post decides to do it themselves, a crucial tip that seems to be left out of a number of tutorials is - if using an external action wrench:

DO NOT TIGHTEN IT DOWN TOO MUCH. Tighten just enough to stop it slipping off the side vertical walls. I think using the pic rail or action top is dumb…I mean, that’s where you want it flat for scopes. You could tweak the top a little a never know it and always wonder why it’s hard to zero or etc.

If you tighten the external wrench too much, at minimum you might ruin the barrel threads. Like my “friend” did lol.

Btw I had tried using my Bugholes internal action wrench to remove those factory barrels on those two actions and nope! Not moving either due to vise slippage. Edit: by the time I finally got vise purchase on the first gun (a sporter), I was in full retard apeshit mode and you can see the result a few posts below.

Later, when installing a Tikka prefit I found that a piece of leather from the palm of an old glove gave me much increased slippage resistance. My Brownells rosin is either shit or I don’t know how to use it. And Tikka sporter barrels are a bitch to find a spot to grip, due to their taper.

Dudes that have zero trouble with Tikka barrel removal are either lucky and got an easy one and/or more experienced at barrel removal.

 

[david walter]

 

[R_Swanson]

View attachment 8720997

I got nothing for gunsmith recce. But here are some tips from someone who’s fucked the process up despite beforehand reading and reading and reading and watching vids and vids and vids about how to do it.

And then, after failure, I had a gunsmith fuck it up!

Using a smith:
Ask if he uses an external action wrench, which I gather should be used after a certain amount of torque, as an internal one can start damaging the action at some point.

If he uses an external one, ask how he attaches it to the action. As in, on the vertical flats or on the action top and bottom?

Because my guy did the latter, didn’t tighten it down enough, and rounded off some of the factory STEEL pic rail! Ugh. He made it right but Jesus!

That was on a second Tikka that had the barrel taken off as I could not, for the life of me, get my Short Action Customs Modular barrel vise to grip the slippery Cerakote of a SV Tikka. Used rosin, drywall tape, heat from torch, slapping it repeatedly with my tiny penis, etc. Nada.

Doing it yourself:
If you or some other future reader of this post decides to do it themselves, a crucial tip that seems to be left out of a number of tutorials is - if using an external action wrench:

DO NOT TIGHTEN IT DOWN TOO MUCH. Tighten just enough to stop it slipping off the side vertical walls. I think using the pic rail or action top is dumb…I mean, that’s where you want it flat for scopes. You could tweak the top a little a never know it and always wonder why it’s hard to zero or etc.

If you tighten the external wrench too much, at minimum you might ruin the barrel threads. Like my “friend” did lol.

Btw I had tried using my Bugholes internal action wrench to remove those factory barrels on those two actions and nope! Not moving either due to vise slippage.

Later, when installing a Tikka prefit I found that a piece of leather from the palm of an old glove gave me much increased slippage resistance. My Brownells rosin is either shit or I don’t know how to use it. And Tikka sporter barrels are a bitch to find a spot to grip, due to their taper.

Dudes that have zero trouble with Tikka barrel removal are either lucky and got an easy one and/or more experienced at barrel removal.

Great feedback dude, much appreciated. To your point about the Tikka sporter barrels... I also presume that a smith that removes a lot of these has a shim built just for that profile, I know I would... which seemingly would make it a lot easier. Mine was slipping no matter what I did (same things as you tried).

Stupid debate above aside - I don't think its impossible to remove a Tikka barrel at home. But it's not like we are utter idiots because we couldn't get them off. The "way" to remove them has been easily searchable on the interwebz for a loooong time as this point, lol.

Question: Why does tightening the external action wrench too much open up the possibility of ruining the barrel threads?

 

[carbonbased]

Question: Why does tightening the external action wrench too much open up the possibility of ruining the barrel threads?

The receiver is thin. Clamping hard on the thin “nut” (the receiver) transmits the forces onto the “bolt” (the barrel threads) and not only makes it super hard to spin the receiver off but, in my case, sheared the barrel threads right off and kinda damaged the receiver threads too.

Total common sense, but I’ve never been in that situation before.

 

[R_Swanson]

The receiver is thin. Clamping hard on the thin “nut” (the receiver) transmits the forces onto the “bolt” (the barrel threads) and not only makes it super hard to spin the receiver off but, in my case, sheared the threads right off and kinda damaged the receiver threads too.

Total common sense, but I’ve never been in that situation before.

Makes sense... I appreciate the additional information.

 

[carbonbased]

Exhibit A lol.

At some point I knew something bad had happened, but in the heat of battle I literally didn’t care.

You all know how it goes. It was man against machine in the fading light one hot sweaty midsummer night, mosquitoes were biting and that fucker was coming off even if I had to break out my oxy-acetylene torch

I’m willing to look the fool to help out the next poor sod.

 

[Edsel]

View attachment 8721049
Exhibit A lol.

At some point I knew something bad had happened, but in the heat of battle I literally didn’t care.

You all know how it goes. It was man against machine in the fading light one hot sweaty midsummer night, mosquitoes were biting and that fucker was coming off even if I had to break out my oxy-acetylene torch

I’m willing to look the fool to help out the next poor sod.

At my age, I don’t think my p***s is physically capable of stripping those threads off any more.

Seriously, just how on earth did that happen?

 

[carbonbased]

Seriously, just how on earth did that happen?

I mentioned in my earlier threads. Over-tightened external action wrench.

 

[tacoman69]

So Kampfeld can save the barrel? My 6.5CM CTR is a shooter, and I want to salvage that barrel for sure. The other I don't care about, except that I presume someone will pay ~60 bucks for it, which would be cool but doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things.

I'm not 100% sure but I'd give them a call. I know for fluting cutting and threading they have an excellent reputation. I have mailed barreled actions to unknown munitions for cerakote and threading and they were excellent to deal with as well. They sell take off barrels so for sure they could get it off.

 

[david walter]

When you do reassemble a take-off onto a tikka action, use the internal wrench (so you don't damage the exterior), tighten to 50 ft-lbs. with a torque wrench (more is just more, not better,) and make sure to coat the threads with anti seize so this doesn't happen if you have to remove the barrel again (been there, done that). See my post #13,567 and just reverse the process. The writing doesn't always lineup correctly, but I've yet to have a barrel swap where the head space isn't in tolerance.

 

[carbonbased]

When you do reassemble a take-off onto a tikka action, use the internal wrench (so you don't damage the exterior), tighten to 50 ft-lbs. with a torque wrench (more is just more, not better,), and make sure to coat the threads with anti seize so this doesn't happen if you have to remove the barrel again.

Yeah, that’s what I did when installing my nice Bugholes barrel after the gunsmith removed the factory Super Varmint barrel. Internal action wrench plus grease all the way! Used 70-ish ft/lbs.

That Tikka lite sporter barrel above with stripped threads was the factory barrel that I gorilla’ed off from a regular stainless (non-SV) action, so obv impossible to add grease/anti seize to it before removal.

 

[Edsel]

What’s the best way to grip these odd Tikka Lite barrel contours in a vise?

 

[R_Swanson]

What’s the best way to grip these odd Tikka Lite barrel contours in a vise?

Drywall tape and rosin are the two top suggestions I've seen. Some also mention leather, as well as some other methods I think @carbonbased discusses them above.

I tried all of them, minus the leather... the POS's still slipped for me.

 

[carbonbased]

What’s the best way to grip these odd Tikka Lite barrel contours in a vise?

One gunsmith I casually talked to (but did not use on this because he’s a real hack) said he used some sort of lead bushing that he squishes on via the barrel vise. Maybe he’s right on that, but man, he was wrong on a number of other things like bedding, barrel threading, and disassembling a Tikka bolt (personal experience with him).

 

[david walter]

@carbonbased ,

I’ve done that too. That’s what led me to have my gunsmith buddy clean up the threads on the receiver and try to salvage the barrel. I can’t remember if we pulled off the salvaging the barrel. But I do remember, he told me absolutely positively under no circumstances thread a barrel into a receiver where you don’t first apply anti seize to keep that from happening again.

The first ten or so barrel pulls were a learning experience. I still run into a problem barrel occasionally. Those I tap in the tightening direction before trying loosening.

Except the one that ended up like your picture, the rest of them have been fairly straightforward

 

[Emerson0311]

Good for you. I've tried 2 of them, they weren't budging. I'd rather pay someone than deal with it, and you might have noted that I have stuff to get fluted anyways.

Appreciate your non-helpful answer though.

Jesus man, I’m no gunsmith but my factory Tikka barrel was not a huge deal. Get off your wallet and order a solid barrel vice with appropriate insert for the Tikka factory barrel. External action wrench and do the deed. Get proper tools or continue to pay the guy that has them. 2 barrels in you are even; after that you are ahead.