Ahh that would make some sense. Not a big fan of the glossy look, but extra grip is always a nice thing. I have been thinking of adding grip to my t3x with marinetex, could make snowy gloves grip a bit better
Ahh that would make some sense. Not a big fan of the glossy look, but extra grip is always a nice thing. I have been thinking of adding grip to my t3x with marinetex, could make snowy gloves grip a bit better
I put my T3 in 30-06 in a Boyd’s pepper laminate stock - inlet for the factory DBM.
I got it for like $80 I think, there was only one available, and in left hand just like I needed so I jumped on it.
For a hunting rifle I like it. It’s heavier than the factory plastic but not too heavy. Action fit good. I was using Mountain Tactical billet aluminum bottom metal and their billet aluminum magazines, and it was a little snug, but I got it to work out and now it’s fine.
It’s no more or less accurate than before the change from what I can tell.
For the rifle it’s in and it’s purpose and the price I paid - I like it.
I need advice on aftermarket chassis for Tikka T3x CTR. I want it to be light enough for hunting (i.e. not heavier than original stock) but at the same time I want the m-lok forend so I can grab the barrel without the risk of burning yourself. Any such chassis around?
I think any chassis system is going to be at least 2 lbs heavier than factory stock
I believe my CTR OEM stocks are roughly 30-32 oz with bottom metal. The closest thing that comes to mind "chassis" minded would be the KRG bravo at 48 oz so you'll be gaining a pound overall.
New chassis on the market, Oryx brand by MDT. This would work out well for a hunting rig due to the overall lighter weight
https://oryxchassis.com
https://oryxchassis.com
Anybody going to be at SHOT? It'd be nice to hear from Beretta what they are going to be importing this year especially left handed. Left hand stainless ctr anyone?
I'll be there.
Will you be able to also ask AI if they are going to re-release the ACIS stock chassis for the Tikkas as well?
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I guess that would be a question for AI rather than Beretta. I'll see what I can do.
I’ve seen a couple photos of converted bravo’s. Can’t remember where. If memory serves, it was as simple as adding a notch for the bolt handle. One did it w a dremel, one with a mill.
This post ( http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/mdt-acc-chassis.6908492/#post-7321247 ) shows the work done (not by me). I tried with a dremel and quickly decided it was a bad idea. Had a friend of a friend do the work. Basically just mirror over the safety and bolt handle cutouts as well as the bolt release pin pocket.
Anyone used a long action T3x for a 6.5 Creedmoor? This is for a hunting rifle, not tactical (I have another build for that). I know I can order a short action bolt stop, but wondering if I need to or if I can get away with the long version. If not, thats cool, just thought Id see what others had experienced.
The long action would work just fine, you would be able to use either the medium or long magazine and both would work.
Unless you are seating your bullets way long, I don't see why you would want the longer bolt throw.
It's common for folk who want to seat the bullets into the lands to get the longer bolt stop and use the longer magazine.
Clothing iron. They are glued and have a dowel as well. You WILL break screws without putting heat to the screws and base.
I almost mounted a Wheeler Engineering 34mm scope lapping bar in my RRS unimount and mount that to the rail while or during the heating process to use as leverage to remove the rail but I decided not mess with it. It won't get cerakoted but that's ok.
Just before Christmas I bought a new CTR stainless 6.5 CM. I bought a Sterk swept bolt handle and was trying to install it last night. However, I cannot get the original bolt handle out of the bolt. Mine is not like the videos where the bolt handle just slides out. It is stuck in there tight. And yes, the firing pin is in the right position and loose. My stock bolt and handle are black rather than stainless (I guess ceracoted from the factory). I tried to tap the bolt handle a little with a small rubber mallet but it won't budge. Any suggestions on how I can get it out?
Has anyone tried the MDT polymer mags in their tikka yet
I am using the 223 MDT mags in my Tikka Varmint with AICS bottom metal. Had to file down the feed lips to clear the bolt. They feed great now.
Did you insert a proper size allen wrench or proper size punch into the firing pin slot before you moved the firing pin into the lower position on the bolt body ?
When I say proper size the I mean filling the slot with largest tool that will insert into the slot.
If not then you will have to reset the firing pin back to the upper level and start over using a tool in the slot to hold back the pressure on the pin as you turn it into the lower position.
Resetting the firing pin can be a pain in the ass until you done it a few times.
I just wrap tape around the jaws of pliars to keep from marring and lightly grip the back of the firing pin and slowly turn it back to the upper position.
Sometimes pushing forward on the back of the firing pin as you try to wiggle the handle out helps too...
Plastic 223 and 308 work fine with a T3, at a push even work in the CTR floor plate.
I use Atlasworx CTR footprint AICS or the older Atlasworx AICS type floor plate.
edi
Yes, I inserted a proper size allen wrench 1/8". The firing pin was/is moving freely. The issue is the bolt handle is super tight in the slot on the bolt body. Whatever coating Tikka put on it is causing it to be tight.
Yeah the CTR with coating can be a bit tight. I wiggle the firing pin assembly in and out while pulling the bolt handle out and it came out without too much effort.
Thx for heads up on this for lw build for wife.
The Oryx looks cool, but 4 pounds without mag? Holy smokes...
-Stooxie
-Stooxie
After calling Beretta customer service this morning about not being able to remove the bolt handle, which was a complete waste of time, I took my bolt to a local gunsmith who put the bolt handle knob in a vise and used a small rubber mallet to hammer the bolt off of the handle. The new Sterk swept bolt handle slid in without any resistance.
My next question relates to magazines. I purchased an MPA Tikka version BA Competition Chassis. Which magazines can I use with the MPA Chassis and my CTR 6.5 CM action?
My next question relates to magazines. I purchased an MPA Tikka version BA Competition Chassis. Which magazines can I use with the MPA Chassis and my CTR 6.5 CM action?
Yes!!! Finally! I finally got my CTR!
Now the fun work begins ?
Now the fun work begins ?
I may not be as experienced as a lot of members here, but wouldn't MPA have that information? I'm not trying to be a smartass.
They do sort of. They told me that AI and MDT mags will work. However, there are several different AI mags and I'm not sure which one and I've read more than once that people have had problems with MDT mags. And, I was just wondering if there are more options.
I got the 5, 10 and 12 round mdt mags to use with my ctr and mpa chassis. The 5 and 10 rounders have worked great.
They are a little tight. The 10 rounders will only hold 9. The 5 rounders will hold 5 but barely. I only functioned tested the 12. They came in the mail yesterday. I didn't think to fully load them.
Less talk more pics!!
Just a teaser of what’s to come...
Attachments
I have the 20" version of that rifle, mine shoots amazing with Hornady 140 gr eldm's.
I have basically the same setup. I tried Prime 130gr, Federal Gold Medal Berger 130gr, Hornady 140gr & 147gr ELDM, Hornady 140gr American Gunner/Black, and some conservative handloads with Nosler 140gr RDF. It shot all of them well, except the RDF, but i didn’t even try to work up a good load with them.
Of those, I think the Hornady ELDMs (both weights) shot the best, but the others were close behind.
My best groups with factory ammo was with Federal Gold Medal match that uses Sierra match kings. I have the 24” SS barrel
You guys dropping the T3 into chassis/upgraded stocks...anyone have a T3 factory plastic stock collecting dust? I’m looking for one. Bonus for having the bottom metal and magazine catch, but my primary need is the stock.
PM me here if you’ve got something.
PM me here if you’ve got something.
Is that the factory inlet the stock came with or did you do work to open it up? I'm doing a lightweight 450 Bushmaster build for Ohio and have a Carbon Six barrel in Bull profile on order. This stock seems like a possible option as it's a good bit lighter than the McMillan Sako Varmint that I have on order.
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That's just the sleeve that is used to attach the hand guard to the body of the chassis not a barrel nut.
The Tac A1 uses the same barreled action as the CTR
Thats what I thought, thanks
Well it’s all done...for now.
Just one 6 pounds even with a 20 moa pic rail, just under 8.25 pounds with 4-16 NF ATACR, and just under 9 pounds with an TBAC ultra 7 on there.
After barrel break in initial load work ups showed it likes 212 eldx with a nice flat node around 2860 fps which isn’t to shabby from the 22” proof barrel.
Bare rifle:
With the NF 4-16 on there:
And of course to SHHHHH the beast
Just one 6 pounds even with a 20 moa pic rail, just under 8.25 pounds with 4-16 NF ATACR, and just under 9 pounds with an TBAC ultra 7 on there.
After barrel break in initial load work ups showed it likes 212 eldx with a nice flat node around 2860 fps which isn’t to shabby from the 22” proof barrel.
Bare rifle:
With the NF 4-16 on there:
And of course to SHHHHH the beast
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This one was the sporter option. So it had to be opened up to accommodate the fatty proof barrel.
I purchased a second one with the varmint/tactical contour channel so we will see how much it needs to be opened up for the 18” 6.5 prc carbon barrel that’s going in there. Basically wanting 24” barrel 6.5 cm performance with 6” less barrel which isn’t a bad place to be.
