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Tikka T3 Thread

alaskalanche said:
Well it’s all done...for now.

Just one 6 pounds even with a 20 moa pic rail, just under 8.25 pounds with 4-16 NF ATACR, and just under 9 pounds with an TBAC ultra 7 on there.

After barrel break in initial load work ups showed it likes 212 eldx with a nice flat node around 2860 fps which isn’t to shabby from the 22” proof barrel.


View attachment 7002105

Bare rifle:
View attachment 7002106

With the NF 4-16 on there:
View attachment 7002109

And of course to SHHHHH the beast :)
View attachment 7002111
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I recently acquired a T3 in 270win that has a very nice walnut stock that just isn't my style. To pretty to beat up hauling around in the woods and have been very interested in the Bush hunter CF stock but can't find much info as far as reviews go.
What are you impressions on it so far, any negatives or very satisfied ?
 
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I got carried away with this. Got my dad a Beregara BMP in 6.5, and then for some reason I justified getting myself a 6.5 because I can just load one round for both of us. Started as a T3x in .243. Cadex Lite Strike, DMR did the 6.5 creedmoor bartlein barrel, MK5 scope and Impact brake. The Magpul mag is not fitting great. I sanded it down to get into the chassis, but the bolt is catching on the lips a bit. I'll shave them down just a tad and hopefully they'll still hold rounds. Just need some clear skies to start testing this thing.
 

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Katahdin said:
Anybody have a 24” Stainless CTR 6.5 Creedmoor? What velocities are you guys getting with 130gr Berger’s?
Click to expand...
My 24” CTR runs the prime factory 130s at 2875 fps.

That said RL-16 and 130 ELDM you can tack on atleast 100 fps to that.
 
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thaflash_la said:
I got carried away with this. Got my dad a Beregara BMP in 6.5, and then for some reason I justified getting myself a 6.5 because I can just load one round for both of us. Started as a T3x in .243. Cadex Lite Strike, DMR did the 6.5 creedmoor bartlein barrel, MK5 scope and Impact brake. The Magpul mag is not fitting great. I sanded it down to get into the chassis, but the bolt is catching on the lips a bit. I'll shave them down just a tad and hopefully they'll still hold rounds. Just need some clear skies to start testing this thing.
Click to expand...


Very nice...
 
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Thanks for the response guys, I'm either going Tac A1 or Stainless CTR. I don't have time or means to reload so was looking at factory ammo. Heard the factory barrels were slow so just wondering how bad?
 
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thaflash_la said:
I got carried away with this. Got my dad a Beregara BMP in 6.5, and then for some reason I justified getting myself a 6.5 because I can just load one round for both of us. Started as a T3x in .243. Cadex Lite Strike, DMR did the 6.5 creedmoor bartlein barrel, MK5 scope and Impact brake. The Magpul mag is not fitting great. I sanded it down to get into the chassis, but the bolt is catching on the lips a bit. I'll shave them down just a tad and hopefully they'll still hold rounds. Just need some clear skies to start testing this thing.
Click to expand...
Friends don't let friends buy Magpul Mags for Tikka's
Magpuls are designed around Rem 700 actions and is a known fact for years that they suck in Tikka's
What few dollars you save on them is not worth the headache of trying to fit them and still not have reliable function.
If you want to use polymers try an MDT they fit the Tikka's action the way they are supposed to.
Or go metal in MDT or ARC ......
Of course I would contact Cadex to confirm the MDT's will function.
 
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Hi All- Didn't realize there was a specific page to Tikka! I originally posted in the general forum. I had a 7SAUM built on a Tikka action. 1-8" twist, No. 5 Brux, in a McMillan Gamehunter. I am trying to develop a functional load for hunting, that will fit in the 2.900" mags that Tikka makes. I was told the 180 ELD-M's would have to be seated so deep that it might not be ideal. What would be some alternative options/suggestions???
 
My first Tikka T3x its chambered in 300 WSM. The tolerances are impressive for a production rifle.
 

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Have same rifle and caliber. Added a Vais brake reduced recoil significantly. Newer company here is Texas now making stocks for the Tikka actions just released at SHOT. I dropped mine off Sat at their shop for a fit and bedding job as these will be their first ones not in a 700 footprint. Once they’re done I will post pics and info if anyone is interested.
 
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Does anyone know when Grayboe plans to release their Tikka inlets other than the Terrain?

I know there’s talk of them getting around to it but I’ve not seen anything concrete.
 
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Guys, about to pull the trigger on ordering a T3X CTR 24" 6.5 Creedmoor. Will be my first long range precision rifle. At some point will upgrade to high end SS barrel, may or may not shoot out the factory barrel. Only question I have is what metal to get. Can get it in blued CM steel or stainless. EIther way, planning on cerakote at some point action and barrel. Not that concerned about corrosion resistance, i'll maintain the rifle well either way. Uses will be range and maybe some hunting. What grade stainless is used, is there any accuracy benefit in the factory SS barrel over the factory CM barrel? Is the action smoother and/or stronger either way? The SS model is $100 more than the CM, is it worth the $100 to get the SS model?
 
I don't believe there is any accuracy benefit in the Tikkas. No difference in the actions. It's more a looks thing. If you're going to Cerakote anyway then totally not worth spending the extra cash.

-Stooxie
 
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Tikka's web pages have vaguely referred to things like "heat treated stainless steel" or "match grade steel" over the years but I don't think anyone's ever figured out what they mean-- if anything. Frankly I think it's just marketing terms that get translated from Finnish to English. They literally all shoot the same. Lots of people here, including me, have TIkkas in blue and stainless and they all make bugholes for the most part.

-Stooxie
 
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Stooxie said:
I don't believe there is any accuracy benefit in the Tikkas. No difference in the actions. It's more a looks thing. If you're going to Cerakote anyway then totally not worth spending the extra cash.

-Stooxie
Click to expand...
I bought a blued CTR for myself for Christmas, I figured I was $100.00 closer to a Bartlein barrel or a couple of boxes of bullets and a pound of powder to shoot and gain experience with the rifle.
 
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Ritterbruder said:
Quick question for Tikka users.

Have any of you experienced slam-fires after adjusting the trigger? On my T3X CTR, it is possible to adjust the trigger weight low enough to where the gun will slam-fire when the bolt is closed or smacked hard enough, and that's with the factory spring in place. There's no way I could use the Yo Dave spring safely in my gun.

Obligatory picture:
View attachment 6706496
Click to expand...
#3,967.
 
tevan0707 said:
Luckily I haven't experienced a slam fire, but like MtnCreek said, its best to test your rifle (with no rounds) to see if you adjusted to light. I installed my Yo-Dave and it passed every drop test I performed, but after running the bolt hard in some dry fire practice I came to discover that I could run it hard enough to disengage the sear so I tightened the spring up a little and that solved the issue.
Click to expand...
posted about a similar experience #1054
 
ArmchairOperator said:
Guys, about to pull the trigger on ordering a T3X CTR 24" 6.5 Creedmoor. Will be my first long range precision rifle. At some point will upgrade to high end SS barrel, may or may not shoot out the factory barrel. Only question I have is what metal to get. Can get it in blued CM steel or stainless. EIther way, planning on cerakote at some point action and barrel. Not that concerned about corrosion resistance, i'll maintain the rifle well either way. Uses will be range and maybe some hunting. What grade stainless is used, is there any accuracy benefit in the factory SS barrel over the factory CM barrel? Is the action smoother and/or stronger either way? The SS model is $100 more than the CM, is it worth the $100 to get the SS model?
Click to expand...

I got the stainless and synthetic for moisture and temperature resistance. while in the field I cover alot of ground on foot Ill be out in whatever weather mother nature throws at me.
 
patriot07 said:
Interesting. I run a CTR 6.5 and have never had this issue at all.
Click to expand...

Pretty common issue with some of the mags. Frank even mentioned it in one of his podcasts. A lot of folks confirmed it. It may have been just a single run of mags, and probably likely the case considering how many they had to crank out for CTR's as well as the Canadian contract Ranger rifles in a relatively short amount of time. No surprise to me that a batch of springs didn't get tempered correctly. It happens.
 
From the factory, the Tikka is known for its super smooth action. However I'm not sure if this happened over time, after I fluted the bolt, or after putting a heavy bolt knob on, but now I can't cycle the bolt as easily. The smallest amount of left/right/up/down pressure and the bolt binds a little, and makes quickly cycling almost impossible unless you're pulling perfectly backwards/forwards. Has anyone else seen this after a putting a bunch of rounds down range? Or changing bolt knobs?

I want to change back to the factory bolt and see if its jsut the heavy bolt causing the binding, but I can't find my factory one. Anyone have a factory bolt they'd lend me to try out? I'll pay shipping and probably buy it from you if it solves my issue. Or just any ideas at all?
 
Have you checked to make sure the bolt handle isn't sticking out past the dovetail, and into the receiver wall?

Possibly some burrs from bolt fluting(?)...
 
The handle isn't sticking out at all. I can't feel any burrs either. I'm not sure what the finish on the bolt handle is, so I'm not sure if its a terrible idea to take some sandpaper to it just to make sure there aren't any micro burrs.
 
kornface13 said:
From the factory, the Tikka is known for its super smooth action. However I'm not sure if this happened over time, after I fluted the bolt, or after putting a heavy bolt knob on, but now I can't cycle the bolt as easily. The smallest amount of left/right/up/down pressure and the bolt binds a little, and makes quickly cycling almost impossible unless you're pulling perfectly backwards/forwards. Has anyone else seen this after a putting a bunch of rounds down range? Or changing bolt knobs?

I want to change back to the factory bolt and see if its jsut the heavy bolt causing the binding, but I can't find my factory one. Anyone have a factory bolt they'd lend me to try out? I'll pay shipping and probably buy it from you if it solves my issue. Or just any ideas at all?
Click to expand...
I started having this trouble by the end of a 2 day match. Turns out it was just a dirty raceway and I think it was from being on the firing line with the soot and dust from everyone else's muzzle brakes. Once cleaned, it was as good as new.
A bit of Hoppe's and a toothbrush should sort that out for you.
 
kornface13 said:
From the factory, the Tikka is known for its super smooth action. However I'm not sure if this happened over time, after I fluted the bolt, or after putting a heavy bolt knob on, but now I can't cycle the bolt as easily. The smallest amount of left/right/up/down pressure and the bolt binds a little, and makes quickly cycling almost impossible unless you're pulling perfectly backwards/forwards. Has anyone else seen this after a putting a bunch of rounds down range? Or changing bolt knobs?

I want to change back to the factory bolt and see if its jsut the heavy bolt causing the binding, but I can't find my factory one. Anyone have a factory bolt they'd lend me to try out? I'll pay shipping and probably buy it from you if it solves my issue. Or just any ideas at all?
Click to expand...

I have a couple of spare Tikka handles I think. Can send one to you to try out if you think that could be causing your issue.

Be sure to disassemble the bolt stop, inspect for any damage, and clear out any crud that may have become lodged in there. Otherwise give it a good cleaning/oil and see what that leaves you with.
 
Took this in on a trade. I don’t hunt so I’m trying to decide if I want to sell it or rebuild it.
Mountain Tactical 6.5 Creedmoor
Mountain Tactical Brake
Mountain Tactical BM
Spiral fluted Bolt
Swept Bolt Handle
McMillan Game Scout
Yo Dave spring
AD0AFC7D-ACB6-430C-8DFF-DD86C4560F89.jpeg
 
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XLR308 said:
I recently acquired a T3 in 270win that has a very nice walnut stock that just isn't my style. To pretty to beat up hauling around in the woods and have been very interested in the Bush hunter CF stock but can't find much info as far as reviews go.
What are you impressions on it so far, any negatives or very satisfied ?
Click to expand...

Thus far I like it over the OEM of course. Its has a much friendlier recoil pad that the OEM stock. A more vertical grip than the OEM stock which I prefer as well. As a bonus its also 5.5 oz lighter and supposedly stiffer, but the OEM stock is actually pretty stiff already so not a real gain there per say.

The only draw back is the finish is kinda slickery ;) So I had a grippy clear coat put on it thus it looks so shiny initially but that dulls out over time, or atleast on the other rifles I have had this clear coat put on we will see I guess.
 
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MarinePMI said:
What kind of bolt handle?
Click to expand...
Its from Glades Armory - Tikka T3 Right Hand Black Melonite w/ 2" black anodized

silhouette said:
I started having this trouble by the end of a 2 day match. Turns out it was just a dirty raceway and I think it was from being on the firing line with the soot and dust from everyone else's muzzle brakes. Once cleaned, it was as good as new.
A bit of Hoppe's and a toothbrush should sort that out for you.
Click to expand...
I will go try this right now... THANKS.

just browsing said:
I have a couple of spare Tikka handles I think. Can send one to you to try out if you think that could be causing your issue.

Be sure to disassemble the bolt stop, inspect for any damage, and clear out any crud that may have become lodged in there. Otherwise give it a good cleaning/oil and see what that leaves you with.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the offer. Let me give this a good cleaning and see if that solves anything. If not I'll DM you.
 
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kornface13 said:
From the factory, the Tikka is known for its super smooth action. However I'm not sure if this happened over time, after I fluted the bolt, or after putting a heavy bolt knob on, but now I can't cycle the bolt as easily. The smallest amount of left/right/up/down pressure and the bolt binds a little, and makes quickly cycling almost impossible unless you're pulling perfectly backwards/forwards. Has anyone else seen this after a putting a bunch of rounds down range? Or changing bolt knobs?

I want to change back to the factory bolt and see if its jsut the heavy bolt causing the binding, but I can't find my factory one. Anyone have a factory bolt they'd lend me to try out? I'll pay shipping and probably buy it from you if it solves my issue. Or just any ideas at all?
Click to expand...

Can you post a pic? Id like to see the flutes if there's not much surface between the flutes the fluting could be the culprit?
 
OneMileSixFive said:
Can you post a pic? Id like to see the flutes if there's not much surface between the flutes the fluting could be the culprit?
Click to expand...

I don't think the flutes are the cause. It happens with the bolt all the way to the rear when the flutes aren't even in contact with the action channel.

I gave it a good cleaning and its definitely a bit better, but still not perfect.
 

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kornface13 said:
I don't think the flutes are the cause. It happens with the bolt all the way to the rear when the flutes aren't even in contact with the action channel.

I gave it a good cleaning and its definitely a bit better, but still not perfect.
Click to expand...
Check your rear action screw and scope base screws and see if any of them are protruding thru.
They will definitely cause some binding on the bolt if too long.
 
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I found my factory Tikka bolt handle and swapped it back in. DEFINITELY way less binding. I think its just the shape/angle of that bolt handle that made it super easy to put too much pressure in the wrong direction. I think we're all good here. Thanks for all the help and advice everyone!
 
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Looking to purchase a tikka in next few months for light carrying hunting but eventually it will be a donor for a long range rifle. Does all tikkas barrel come threaded or is it just the CTR model?
Thanks in advance!
44
 
Yeah for the money the TAC is better, twonstage adjustable trigger, more adjustable chassis. If you’re not going g to build upon it, it comes down to whether you prefer a chassis or tradition stock
 
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strike33 said:
Yeah for the money the TAC is better, twonstage adjustable trigger, more adjustable chassis. If you’re not going g to build upon it, it comes down to whether you prefer a chassis or tradition stock
Click to expand...

I like everything about the Tac A1, except the magazines, wish it was AICS. I watched Lowlights video review on the Tac A1 and I think I’m going to take his advice and go with a CTR and put it in a chassis I like. For me it’s either a KRG Bravo/X-ray or an MDT ESS. Plus be nice to have the regular stock if I want to take it out for hunting purposes.
 
ArmchairOperator said:
I like everything about the Tac A1, except the magazines, wish it was AICS. I watched Lowlights video review on the Tac A1 and I think I’m going to take his advice and go with a CTR and put it in a chassis I like. For me it’s either a KRG Bravo/X-ray or an MDT ESS. Plus be nice to have the regular stock if I want to take it out for hunting purposes.
Click to expand...

You won't regret it. My CTR in a X-ray shoots lights out. I honestly loved it even in the factory stock, but went for the chassis when one popped up on arms list locally for super cheap.
 
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