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Tikka T3 Thread

Gents,

Please forgive the NOOB question; How does one go about measuring the distance to the lands? I thought that the chambers are standardized. appreciate the explanation.
The overall length gauge is easy to do but I have found it is not all that accurate.

I use this method as described in this youtube



it may take longer but is well worth it as far as repeatability and accuracy.
 
The action used in the video is a two lug and the bolt will literally fall closed. Doesn't really work that way on a Tikka,
it’s not the number of lugs. You have to disassemble the bolt and remove the firing pin, ejector and extractor in order to use the Wheeler method.
 
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Sirui R-5214 tripod and K40x ball head, heavy duty.
LT5.JPG
 
@viking78

How secure is that Pig saddle? Would you ever consider the Hog saddle or do you feel it may not be nessesary?

I have not tested or used the hog mount, but i can tell that the pig mount is a very stable and hold the rifle so tight on, that i would love to test the hog, what should be even better.
Hunting and prs, on a budget this pig mount is a very good buy, that´s my opinion.
And it´s fast to use and wont leave any markings to your gun.
 
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Santa left a MDT ACC chassis for my CTR under the tree, so that leaves the existing Bravo stock without a barreled action. The horror !!!

One of the local shops has a NIB T3 in .223 that I should be able to get out the door for about $ 550.00.
It’s in a plastic stock with plastic magazines and looks like a standard weight barrel but I didn’t measure the length.
I did notice the the twist is 1-10”. Looks like 69 grain bullets are going to be at the heavy end of what will stabilize in that barrel. Pre- Fit barrels are an option if I see the need for a faster twist or heavier barrel.

Are the polymer AICS Pattern MDT .223 mags good to go for a 223 Tikka ?
 
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I use MDT polymer magazines on my CTR 223rem Bravo chassis, work just fine and cheap too.

Here´s my 10-years old son hitting steel plate grouse on 380-meters, over 400-yards.
Tikka CTR 223rem MDT magazines and KRG Bravo chassis, Vortex Viper PST gen II 5-25x50 MRAD FFP scope.
Ase Utra SL5i suppressor, works like a clock, this barrel twist is 1/8 and it likes 77gr Scenar, like you see on the video ;)



I tryed that grouse too :)

 
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what is the name of color on the barreled action?

My 260rem CTR love 123gr Scenar pills.
1/3MOA 5-shots 100-meters, just when the pilot keeps his head under pressure.



I use MDT polymer magazines on my CTR 223rem Bravo chassis, work just fine and cheap too.

Here´s my 10-years old son hitting steel plate grouse on 380-meters, over 400-yards.
Tikka CTR 223rem MDT magazines and KRG Bravo chassis, Vortex Viper PST gen II 5-25x50 MRAD FFP scope.
Ase Utra SL5i suppressor, works like a clock, this barrel twist is 1/8 and
 
Ordered the Timney 2-stage trigger last night. I was seriously considering the KRG Midas but, three things made me choose the Timney. First was the adjustment range for take up and release. By their advertised numbers, the KRG didn't go as low as the Timney. Perhaps that doesn't paint the whole picture but, it was a consideration. The second factor was my experience with Timney. I have three Timney's in my safe right now and all have served me well. I figure, I'm used to their performance so this should be a similar experience. The final factor was price. Most outlets had the Timney for $245. Not a huge difference in price from the Midas at $289...but, then I found the Timney on GrabAGun for $188. That was the final decision maker!

Bob

The Timney 2-stage trigger for Tikka is fantastic. I replaced the trigger in my Tac-A1 with it. I had the Yo-Dave trigger spring, but wasn't the biggest fan of the first stage. The Timney T3 was exactly what I wanted. It's not cheap, but a significant improvement over the factory trigger IMO. I have mine breaking right at 2lbs every time. It's primarily a PRS rifle, so I have no interest in a lower pull weight.
 
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The Timney 2-stage trigger for Tikka is fantastic. I replaced the trigger in my Tac-A1 with it. I had the Yo-Dave trigger spring, but wasn't the biggest fan of the first stage. The Timney T3 was exactly what I wanted. It's not cheap, but a significant improvement over the factory trigger IMO. I have mine breaking right at 2lbs every time. It's primarily a PRS rifle, so I have no interest in a lower pull weight.

I installed and adjusted my Timney but, have not had a chance to get the gun back to the range. After doing some dry firing, I think this trigger is going to shrink my groups! I will definitely report back when I get a chance to test it out.

Bob
 
I did cartridge Base to Ogive measurements with the following bullets in my 6.5 Creedmoor Tikka Tac A1 with a couple hundred rounds down the tube. I'd estimate everything had between .001-.003" (.02-.08mm) jam into the lands with the way I measured. I measure with a case I cut on two sides, push bullet slightly into it, push casing into chamber, push bolt closed onto case rim, but not engaging the extractor, then get a cleaning rod into muzzle and push cartridge out. This way the bullet is seated into the cartridge. I repeat the process 3-5 times and all measurements are usually within .001-.002 if each other. Looks like this:


15776839885651011437823579406255.jpg



Barnes 120 Tipped TSX: 2.325" (59.05mm)
Hornady 120 GMX: 2.281" (57.95mm)
Norma 130 Golden Target: 2.291" (58.2mm)
Sierra 130 Tipped Matchking: 2.328" (59.13mm)
Nosler 130 RDF: 2.307" (58.61mm)
Berger 130 Hybrid: 2.315" (58.82mm)
JLK 130: 2.310" (58.68mm)
Hornady 147 ELD-M: 2.325" (59.05mm)


15776845798625318684481628202421.jpg


Here's what the JLK looks like when it touches the lands LOL... almost not even in the neck..... it's gonna be jumping, to say the least

1577684708420751393330506199966.jpg
 
what is the name of color on the barreled action?



I use MDT polymer magazines on my CTR 223rem Bravo chassis, work just fine and cheap too.

Here´s my 10-years old son hitting steel plate grouse on 380-meters, over 400-yards.
Tikka CTR 223rem MDT magazines and KRG Bravo chassis, Vortex Viper PST gen II 5-25x50 MRAD FFP scope.
Ase Utra SL5i suppressor, works like a clock, this barrel twist is 1/8 and

Cerakoted to coyote tan :)
 
Shit happens when you do not pay tension.
I should check the cans, since i have two of a kind, only difference is the diameter of the bore inside the can.
Most importand thing is that no one was hurt, and the suppressor manufactured was also kind on me and send me a new suppressor.
i send the suffered one to the factory, so they can check what kind of damage it did to the can.
Jaki supressor that the s..t happend was Titaniun Hunter, it has a titaniun inner parts, titanium is a hard metal.
So it might has a crevice is side the cann, that you might not see, so it is not safe to use any more.
Even the look thru looks fine, there might come pieces off, if it will shot more.
Not want to take that risk.
That´s why it is importand to do check and then a double check if you have a suppressor or a muzzle brake that has a same
thread on many rifles, that you might have the mix on the suppressors, or brake.
Some kind of color code might be a good idea, to not do the same mistake again.
 
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I call that an OOOOOOPS. Thankfully you're OK. That could been a really bad day.

It's ok. At least your vehicle is intact.... unlike my range trip today.... I was driving, no wind, 36 degrees F (2c), gonna be a perfect day... called ahead, recording at the range phone said it was open....
20191230_091756.jpg


Idiots parked in the road playing in the snow around a blind corner forced me to keep too far right to avoidthem, and subsequently, my passenger side mirror went bye bye thanks to a broken tree branch sticking out into the road.

20191230_104425.jpg
20191230_105552.jpg


Like a good citizen, I go back and pick up the pieces because I dont want anyone to pop a tire or anything on my debris.

I carry on to the range to shoot all this lovely ammo I made for my T3x Tac a1.... get to the range and...

Closed
20191230_092459.jpg
 
Wow. That’s a bad day. Just bought my wife a car and on our Christmas trip to see the family this week we got pelted with loose rocks flung up by a truck. Dented bumper and chipped windshield on a new car. Fun times.
 
Wow. That’s a bad day. Just bought my wife a car and on our Christmas trip to see the family this week we got pelted with loose rocks flung up by a truck. Dented bumper and chipped windshield on a new car. Fun times.
It is what it is. Got a replacement part on the way. Be here by the 6th. $70. Dealership wanted $185. Yeah, no.
 
Shit happens when you do not pay tension.
I should check the cans, since i have two of a kind, only difference is the diameter of the bore inside the can.
Most importand thing is that no one was hurt, and the suppressor manufactured was also kind on me and send me a new suppressor.
i send the suffered one to the factory, so they can check what kind of damage it did to the can.
Jaki supressor that the s..t happend was Titaniun Hunter, it has a titaniun inner parts, titanium is a hard metal.
So it might has a crevice is side the cann, that you might not see, so it is not safe to use any more.
Even the look thru looks fine, there might come pieces off, if it will shot more.
Not want to take that risk.
That´s why it is importand to do check and then a double check if you have a suppressor or a muzzle brake that has a same
thread on many rifles, that you might have the mix on the suppressors, or brake.
Some kind of color code might be a good idea, to not do the same mistake again.

I saw a video where a guy has his .30 cal cans in Black, and his 6.5mm cans in Green. Seems like a safe way to keep them separated.
 
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Shit happens when you do not pay tension.
I should check the cans, since i have two of a kind, only difference is the diameter of the bore inside the can.
Most importand thing is that no one was hurt, and the suppressor manufactured was also kind on me and send me a new suppressor.
i send the suffered one to the factory, so they can check what kind of damage it did to the can.
Jaki supressor that the s..t happend was Titaniun Hunter, it has a titaniun inner parts, titanium is a hard metal.
So it might has a crevice is side the cann, that you might not see, so it is not safe to use any more.
Even the look thru looks fine, there might come pieces off, if it will shot more.
Not want to take that risk.
That´s why it is importand to do check and then a double check if you have a suppressor or a muzzle brake that has a same
thread on many rifles, that you might have the mix on the suppressors, or brake.
Some kind of color code might be a good idea, to not do the same mistake again.
Another excellent opportunity to learn.
Many prefer to learn from other people's mistakes, instead of their own ;)


I call that an OOOOOOPS. Thankfully you're OK. That could been a really bad day.

It's ok. At least your vehicle is intact.... unlike my range trip today.... I was driving, no wind, 36 degrees F (2c), gonna be a perfect day... called ahead, recording at the range phone said it was open....


Idiots parked in the road playing in the snow around a blind corner forced me to keep too far right to avoidthem, and subsequently, my passenger side mirror went bye bye thanks to a broken tree branch sticking out into the road.

View attachment 7212820

That looks sorta like the driver's side mirror of the guy who decided to make a U turn from the curb side - while I was riding my bicycle past him. (That was some years ago). I got a sore finger - he got a sad looking mirror.
 
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The Timney 2-stage trigger for Tikka is fantastic. I replaced the trigger in my Tac-A1 with it. I had the Yo-Dave trigger spring, but wasn't the biggest fan of the first stage. The Timney T3 was exactly what I wanted. It's not cheap, but a significant improvement over the factory trigger IMO. I have mine breaking right at 2lbs every time. It's primarily a PRS rifle, so I have no interest in a lower pull weight.

PM me if you want to sell your stock tac a1 trigger haha
 
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Aside from a few MDTs that I'm not in love with looks wise, what are the options for a left handed long action stock?
 
Here’s why I have an extra Bravo Stock here at the house:
View attachment 7212324View attachment 7212320View attachment 7212321
View attachment 7212323
I can’t let Viking78 have all the fun around here...

Happy New Year and an update:

I worked a deal on the NIB T3 in .223, so it has a new home.
I measured the OD of the OEM barrel at the muzzle and it’s 0.635”, so enough material for a reasonable shoulder if I thread it 1/2-28 for a supper or mount.
Brownells was running a 10% coupon code with Free Shipping so I ordered a KRG Midas trigger to match the one on the CTR, some MDT polymer magazines and a 20 MOA Pic Rail scope mount by Area 419.

On the way to the LGS, I stopped at the range to test fire the Suppressor that I built on a Form 1.
I took my 6.5 Grendel AR mainly because I had factory ammo for it and wanted to test the can with a lower case capacity cartridge than either .308 or 6.5 CM.

It worked like champ ! Very happy with the results !
 
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Got to shooting yesterday. Three hand loads to test after zeroing with factory.
AACD9276-4ED0-4AB0-B0EE-B095C78B2A42.jpeg
First load i put through it 39.5 gr imr 4064 175gr smk at 2.220. Group is .400”
B9024F12-AAC2-4F7E-942B-890E6F690F35.jpeg
second load, 40.0 gr imr 4064, 175gr smk, 2.220. group is .622”
A86BECA7-F623-4C71-A9C4-747D0D4859E6.jpeg
last one I made is 41.0 gr of imr 4064, 175gr smk at 2.220. Group is .720”
5DA2BDA9-1EBA-4FE2-B961-B9134D3EC41F.jpeg
 
Does anyone know where you can purchase the tactical sling studs for the Tikka T3 Tac? I looking for the one that have the larger opening/eyes. Beretta said they do not have them in the USA.
 
Just came back from the range ... first shots with my Christmas present, a Tikka T3x TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor.

5 rounds to zero the scope at 100 yards (Leupold Mark 5 HD 5-25x50), then got this 5-shot group. Dinged steel at 500 yards with rounds 11-15. Had to stop at that point and go home for my "First-15" barrel break-in cleaning.

Heading to the 1,000 yard range on the next nice day. I have high hopes for this new toy ... seems absolutely solid.

Thank you Santa !!!

Tikka.jpg
 
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Just came back from the range ... first shots with my Christmas present, a Tikka T3x TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor.

5 rounds to zero the scope at 100 yards (Leupold Mark 5 HD 5-25x50), then got this 5-shot group. Dinged steel at 500 yards with rounds 11-15. Had to stop at that point and go home for my "First-15" barrel break-in cleaning.

Heading to the 1,000 yard range on the next nice day. I have high hopes for this new toy ... seems absolutely solid.

Thank you Santa !!!

View attachment 7216005
Nothing like that “New Rifle Smell”
That and banging steel at 500 is satisfying
 
Aside from a few MDTs that I'm not in love with looks wise, what are the options for a left handed long action stock?

Have a look at German Gunstocks:


Manners do a left hand in their mini-chassis which is what I've got.
 
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I got a T3X 223 SS for Christmas. Got out New year's day to shoot. Looked like it's going to be a shooter.IMG_9511.JPGIMG_9612 2.JPG
 
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yes it is a 8 twist.
Mark

My son CTR(TAC A1) is also 1/8 twist and 24" barrel.
Friend of mine just bought TAC A1 with the 20" barrel.
Kind of want to see, if my load recipe gives better result with that shorter barrel, i might do the 4" cut off on mine too.
With a suppressor that Bravo chassis rifle is just too long, specially on hunting, i like it short.
T26.JPG
 
My son CTR(TAC A1) is also 1/8 twist and 24" barrel.
Friend of mine just bought TAC A1 with the 20" barrel.
Kind of want to see, if my load recipe gives better result with that shorter barrel, i might do the 4" cut off on mine too.
With a suppressor that Bravo chassis rifle is just too long, specially on hunting, i like it short.
View attachment 7216767
Who did your paint job? Looks awesome
 
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