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Tikka T3 Thread

What concern? Galling? You think Tikka haven't thought about that with the number of actions that are out there? I've also never heard of an action and bolt seizing up. Also why would you be running a gun completely unlubed? What about all of the other actions that are made out of stainless? Not to mention the stainless barrels threaded into stainless actions.
Yes, my concern was about the increased susceptibility to galling. I am definitely no expert in this area but, as I understand it, the best way to reduce the likelihood of galling is to make the bolt lugs and receiver lugs of different hardness. Chromoly steel is easier to harden than stainless so many manufacturers make their bolts from chromoly steel.

Action manufacturers who combine a stainless steel receiver body with and chromoly steel bolt include Defiance, Stiller, Impact Precision, Terminus and Big Horn. Even Remington welds a chromoly steel bolt head onto a stainless bolt body for their stainless actions. I figured there must be a good reason why all these manufacturers do this.

Maybe Tikka has some other way of dealing with the issue. Maybe the majority of their rifles are sold to hunters and don't get cycled frequently so Tikka has decided that corrosion resistance is more important than resistance to galling. I don't know.

A few years ago I asked on a several Tikka related forums how Tikka deals with this issue and did not get any responses. I did read a few comments from people saying that they found the chromoly actions operated more smoothly than the stainless versions.

In the end, I was not able to find answers to the questions I had in my mind so I just went with the blued steel options.

As I said, I'm definitely not an expert in this area and am happy to hear actual explanations as to why this is not an issue with Tikka rifles.
 
Yes, my concern was about the increased susceptibility to galling. I am definitely no expert in this area but, as I understand it, the best way to reduce the likelihood of galling is to make the bolt lugs and receiver lugs of different hardness. Chromoly steel is easier to harden than stainless so many manufacturers make their bolts from chromoly steel.

Action manufacturers who combine a stainless steel receiver body with and chromoly steel bolt include Defiance, Stiller, Impact Precision, Terminus and Big Horn. Even Remington welds a chromoly steel bolt head onto a stainless bolt body for their stainless actions. I figured there must be a good reason why all these manufacturers do this.

Maybe Tikka has some other way of dealing with the issue. Maybe the majority of their rifles are sold to hunters and don't get cycled frequently so Tikka has decided that corrosion resistance is more important than resistance to galling. I don't know.

A few years ago I asked on a several Tikka related forums how Tikka deals with this issue and did not get any responses. I did read a few comments from people saying that they found the chromoly actions operated more smoothly than the stainless versions.

In the end, I was not able to find answers to the questions I had in my mind so I just went with the blued steel options.

As I said, I'm definitely not an expert in this area and am happy to hear actual explanations as to why this is not an issue with Tikka rifles.
There are quite a few alloys of stainless that are hardenable. There is more than one alloy.

Doing a quick list of "stainless" alloys that I've worked with. I made lots of bolts and nuts out of alot of these.
303
304
308
316
316l
416
420 (common barrel stainless)
440
15-5
17-4
A286
BTW there are many more.

Why do other companies use stainless actions with steel bolts? A couple of reasons include cost of materials and material workability which translates to cost. Stainless is less easy to work with to machine.

Also have you read this thread? I have read all 157 pages of it. There are lots of people that have burned through multiple barrels in their Tikkas. So not just Hunters.

If there were problems with galling you wouldve heard about it years ago. Not an issue.

BTW the only company that I have seen publish alloy, hardness, and surface finish specs is @THEIS with his Hoplite rifles.
 
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found this that might work for you

Had one. Seemed nice until the bolt in stop worked loose. When I finally got the part out the screw in portion was beat to hell. I now just use the original bolt stop.
 
Just a few thou; enough to slide a folded $ bill between the sight ears & the mag ring....as tight as garter clearance at the Booby Trap...

The maker of that mount is an artist. He knows how to use a caliper/ruler in metric AND standard; that alone will ensure there will never be Spuhr's on my boots again :cool:

It looks like Richard has changed his front ring design. I have two of his mounts, and my father has one of them. He is an interesting guy to talk to, and definitely puts out a good product.
 
I remember when these were being sold for $500, man crazy accurate for a rifle in that price range. All Tikkas I've seen shoot very good, all under 1 inch with factory ammo. Good rifles for the money.
 
Looks like @StraightShooter77 and the guys at Straight Jacket Armory are offering tikka prefits for unmodified actions now!

Another great option for even more support for us tikka lovers. They are offering intro pricing right now also. I’ve had one of their barrels for a TL3 and it absolutely hammered. Can’t beat their service either
 
Bravo came in today, after the kids and wife went to bed I had to put it together! I know, looks like every other stainless CTR in a black bravo, but I dig it. 24” 6.5, gamma VG6.308 brake, vortex diamondback 6-24x50 (plan on moving it to my T1x when funds allow me to go another step up in glass)...I believe the KRG would be an ok stock to hunt with, the whole set up is a little heavy but manageable I suppose.

Waiting on a Bravo myself! First I got the AICS Bravo but decided I preferred the CTR mags. Got the CTR version on the way now (sad they didn't have it in Stealth Grey) and have to unload the AICS Bravo. Really should've shot the rifle and got a feel for it before I ordered the AICS Bravo but oh well live and learn.
 
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That's right @Estes640 !! Many of you here on the Hide have messagef me or posted asking for prefit barrels for your Tikka rifles. Well...we listened! Check this out below

Straight Jacket Armory is pleased to offer you custom made Pre-Fit barrels for your Tikkas and the best part is these Pre-Fits DO NOT require any modification to the face of the action. These new Tikka Pre-Fits are 1.090" diameter shanks (original spec)


Want a custom prefit tackdriver for your Tikka from Straight Jacket Armory? Call 307 -707-3181 Ext 1

Shoot Straight!

StraightShooter77
 
I bet it’s about to get longer when the word spreads on this. 👍


Anybody ever shortened the bolt stop pin to fit in a chassis?
 

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Not sure on that.

XLR is pretty popular on here so someone will chime in soon
 
Anybody ever shortened the bolt stop pin to fit in a chassis?

Didn't need too on my XLR element, does it protrude outside the radius of the action. Personally I'd dremel the chassis first. Not like you can see it when the action is in it.
 
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Fully inserted. But definitely probably just going to just deemed chassis

Hi, I would dremel the bolt stop pin flush with the action before I dremeled the chassis. The chassis costs hundreds vs the bolt stop pin costing maybe a few bucks. If you do find out that the pin wasn’t in or it was too long you wont have a hole in your chassis for your new/ installed correctly pin to fall into.
 
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Hi, I would dremel the bolt stop pin flush with the action before I dremeled the chassis. The chassis costs hundreds vs the bolt stop pin costing maybe a few bucks. If you do find out that the pin wasn’t in or it was too long you wont have a hole in your chassis for your new/ installed correctly pin to fall into.

Already dremeled the chassis as I put a couple other tikkas in and it had a very similar result. I’m going to send the guys a XLR a note. I don’t expect them to do anything for me, just a heads up in case any one else has the same problem.
 
Coworker had asked my recommendations for a 6.5CM rifle for range and occasional hunting use (once a year for deer in WI). I convinced him to go with a CTR. He purchased it in stainless, added a Bushnell Forge 4.5x27 in vortec rings and a magpul bipod. Pretty entry level but a decent start. A hand full of rounds got it sighted in at 100yrds and I will say I was impressed with the accuracy with Hornady 140gr Match. He only had 40 rounds so I only shot it 3 times at 200 but it produced about a .5 moa group. He's pretty happy with it as well.

For all the hype on here about the Tikka, I dont think I steered him wrong.
 
Anyone ever tried putting a T3 in a KMW Sentinel?
Doubt it, I don't know of any inletted for a Tikka. I'm sure it's doable with enough work. I sure like mine but there's plenty of other options for a Tikka that won't require any effort to use.
 
Doubt it, I don't know of any inletted for a Tikka. I'm sure it's doable with enough work. I sure like mine but there's plenty of other options for a Tikka that won't require any effort to use.

Yeah thats what I thought. Just wanted to ask anyways. If I go T3, I’ll probably just throw it in a Bravo and call it good.
 
Yeah thats what I thought. Just wanted to ask anyways. If I go T3, I’ll probably just throw it in a Bravo and call it good.

I'm pretty sure I saw a KMW stock housing a non r700 footprint action a while back. The owner mentioned it took some work to get it to work. Although I am not 100% on which action the stock was housing, I wanna say it was a T3.
 
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Hi, I would dremel the bolt stop pin flush with the action before I dremeled the chassis. The chassis costs hundreds vs the bolt stop pin costing maybe a few bucks. If you do find out that the pin wasn’t in or it was too long you wont have a hole in your chassis for your new/ installed correctly pin to fall into.
And if you dremel the pin flush theres nothing to grab onto to remove it... common solution is a small relief in the chassis/stock.
 
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And if you dremel the pin flush theres nothing to grab onto to remove it... common solution is a small relief in the chassis/stock.
Ok let me rephrase that... cut the bolt stop pin flush with the radius of the action, not the flat spot on the action. Edit: I see what you are saying about the pin being cut short and not much to grab on to due to the pin being close to the edge of the action.
 
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Made a little update on my Tac A1 6.5CM this weekend. Previously I had a small pic rail mounted on the handguard, and my bipod mounted to that. On more than one occasion, I wished I had the ability to move the bipod closer in to be able to better position for up/down angles.

On went a 12” Area 419 Arcalock rail, and one of their clamps for my bipod. I really dig the ability to quickly adjust bipod position now! Mount up and locking seems darn solid to me.
I also picked up one of the Area 419 rail mounted pint size Game Changer bags (aka Railchanger). The rail changer bag is nice, it’s easy to mount and dismount, and provides a hell of a stable shooting platform. It’s damn heavy though. It will be useful for situational and positional shooting I think.

5D2C6510-C1DC-4E80-91DC-CDA266044774.jpeg
 
Made a little update on my Tac A1 6.5CM this weekend. Previously I had a small pic rail mounted on the handguard, and my bipod mounted to that. On more than one occasion, I wished I had the ability to move the bipod closer in to be able to better position for up/down angles.

On went a 12” Area 419 Arcalock rail, and one of their clamps for my bipod. I really dig the ability to quickly adjust bipod position now! Mount up and locking seems darn solid to me.
I also picked up one of the Area 419 rail mounted pint size Game Changer bags (aka Railchanger). The rail changer bag is nice, it’s easy to mount and dismount, and provides a hell of a stable shooting platform. It’s damn heavy though. It will be useful for situational and positional shooting I think.

View attachment 7362195

I hate be the bearer of bad news, but Tikka installed the bolt handle on the wrong side of the rifle....

JK, It's a really nice set up !!
 
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I hate be the bearer of bad news, but Tikka installed the bolt handle on the wrong side of the rifle....

JK, It's a really nice set up !!
Haha, I know right? I’m sure glad they did. Was hard to find at the time, like a year and a half ago!
 
Anybody hear anything new on the Tikka T3x 6.5 PRC being chambered by tikka since Shot Show 2020? Pre Covid it was supposed to be around June, but wondering if I just haven't seen the any in the wild, or if their guess on release was crushed by the mighty Corona. Anything?
 
Patriot Valley Arms is now offering 6mm ARC prefits for the Tikka T3x, but I am unsure how this would actually work in my .308 Tikka CTR were I to purchase this barrel.

I plan on switching over to 6mm for PRS at some point an I plan on utilizing my Tikka action for the interim, but I am having trouble finding information online about compatibility. Would I be able to run 6mm GT out of a Tikka CTR with the .308 bolt-face and the standard CTR mags? My CTR is currently in a KRG Bravo with the CTR inlet.

I'm assuming 6mm ARC is going to be right out, given that cartridge requires a short-action and grendel mags?
 
Patriot Valley Arms is now offering 6mm ARC prefits for the Tikka T3x, but I am unsure how this would actually work in my .308 Tikka CTR were I to purchase this barrel.

I plan on switching over to 6mm for PRS at some point an I plan on utilizing my Tikka action for the interim, but I am having trouble finding information online about compatibility. Would I be able to run 6mm GT out of a Tikka CTR with the .308 bolt-face and the standard CTR mags? My CTR is currently in a KRG Bravo with the CTR inlet.

I'm assuming 6mm ARC is going to be right out, given that cartridge requires a short-action and grendel mags?

6mm GT in a CTR magazine... Maybe. Not sure I've heard of anyone trying it. Might need some adjustment but the GT should run in AI magazines. I don't see the point in running the 6 ARC when you could run a 6 BR and get more speed and use a standard 308 bolt face.
 
6mm GT in a CTR magazine... Maybe. Not sure I've heard of anyone trying it. Might need some adjustment but the GT should run in AI magazines. I don't see the point in running the 6 ARC when you could run a 6 BR and get more speed and use a standard 308 bolt face.

Thanks for the response. I'm still trying to educate myself on the subject, and I agree with you that it's probably pointless to run 6mm ARC when I can run something with better compatibility. I hadn't considered 6mm BR, but if it works with the .308 boltface that will probably be the ticket.
 
It might work, if you do a spacer on the magazine end, since it is so short, normal 308/6.5 creedmoor CTR mag lenght might be to much for it.
But if you change mag system to AICS, there is this MDT AICS magazine that would feed that ammo.

On that case, it is a bit smaller than 308, so im not sure how it will work on ejecting the fired brass.
308 bolt face is .473" and 6mm ARC it´s .441".
But im not familiar, can a gun smith do change on the bolt face´s.
Or should you get 223rem bolt and modified it from there.
Since there is no size between the 223rem bolt face and 308win on Tikka.
calibertikka.JPG

 
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It might work, if you do a spacer on the magazine end, since it is so short, normal 308/6.5 creedmoor CTR mag lenght might be to much for it.
But if you change mag system to AICS, there is this MDT AICS magazine that would feed that ammo.

On that case, it is a bit smaller than 308, so im not sure how it will work on ejecting the fired brass.
308 bolt face is .473" and 6mm ARC it´s .373".
But im not familiar, can a gun smith do change on the bolt face´s.
Or should you get 223rem bolt and modified it from there.
Since there is no size between the 223rem bolt face and 308win on Tikka.
View attachment 7363227
Regarding the bolt face, it is easier to go up a size than down a size. I dont know if going down a size would work, but there are some who have gone up to a magnum from a standard by having their gunsmith ream out the center of the bolt face with, acceptable results. Probably have to ask one about potential issues or limitations.
 
Any idea on a timelime with that? The impossibility of getting a different bolt has been holding me back from a tikka build ive had in my head
From post 7711
Over the last couple years now we've had multiple (hundreds, thousands maybe) requests from the Tikka crowd to answer the need for two things:

1. Sort out the ability to alter the bolt face on the T3.
2. Offer OEM quality T3 replacement bolts.

Well....that box is now being checked. A big ol truckload of steel is due to be delivered very soon so that the production growing pains can be sorted out. The bulk of the engineering work is already done.

So, I hope you all were serious cause they are coming!

Fall, 2020.
 
Has anyone measured the lands on their rifle when it was new? Specifically the TAC A1 factory barrel in 6.5CM. I’m at .107” jump with factory 147 ELDM ammo and 1750 rounds into it.
 
Any idea on a timelime with that? The impossibility of getting a different bolt has been holding me back from a tikka build ive had in my head


We are hoping for fall of this year. I realize that's a bit vague, but a job like this isn't exactly trivial. My biggest issue is ensuring the proper procedures and processes are in place so that things work smoothly. As it moves forward we'll start working on a release date.

C.
 
For a Tikka T3x Tac A1, looking for a zero-degree bag rider that clamps to the picatinny rail on the stock. I know Tikka Performance has one but it requires the removal of the picatinny rail.
 
It's been much too long (years) since I've done any precision shooting, and I'm uncertain whether I have the time to get back into it . . . but I did line up an Elk hunt out to CO next year, and I'd like to pick up a Tikka to take out there.

I'm partial to the 7MM Rem Mag, and my plan is to pick up a stainless steel T3X and drop it into a Manners MCS-EHTA stock.

The rifles I'm looking to start with are the Hunter Stainless Fluted or the Laminated Stainless. Does anybody have any specific thoughts on fluted vs non? I'm not expecting to have to shoot any strings, but if one is more ridged than the other, I'll go that route.

(Also, looking at all of the awesome rifles in this thread really has me wondering if I should consider a 6.5 CTR. . . )
 
It's been much too long (years) since I've done any precision shooting, and I'm uncertain whether I have the time to get back into it . . . but I did line up an Elk hunt out to CO next year, and I'd like to pick up a Tikka to take out there.

I'm partial to the 7MM Rem Mag, and my plan is to pick up a stainless steel T3X and drop it into a Manners MCS-EHTA stock.

The rifles I'm looking to start with are the Hunter Stainless Fluted or the Laminated Stainless. Does anybody have any specific thoughts on fluted vs non? I'm not expecting to have to shoot any strings, but if one is more ridged than the other, I'll go that route.

(Also, looking at all of the awesome rifles in this thread really has me wondering if I should consider a 6.5 CTR. . . )
For the same contour a non fluted is always more rigid.