I was surprised since its not "match" or even pricey ammo, but the Hornady American Gunner shoots great in my 6.5 20" CTR.
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I was surprised since its not "match" or even pricey ammo, but the Hornady American Gunner shoots great in my 6.5 20" CTR.
I'm new to it also, but I've had my best results so far with Hornady's 143 ELDX....
Normally I lean towards Berger, and have a couple hundred of their 140 Hybrids and 130 VLDs to work with, so it may work out as well.
I suspect the 120/123, 130 and 135 will also be "accurate" in different brand flavors...kinda' depends on what you want to do with it.
George
Normally I lean towards Berger, and have a couple hundred of their 140 Hybrids and 130 VLDs to work with, so it may work out as well.
I suspect the 120/123, 130 and 135 will also be "accurate" in different brand flavors...kinda' depends on what you want to do with it.
George
That’s 2 bullets in the top hole and then the third below. Factory ammo - Federal GMM 130 Berger OTM I bought at WM. Dies got here today.
Shot this afternoon after I mounted the new Badger Ordnance 20moa unimount.
Only shot 10 rounds and those were the last 3.
I have yet to adjust the trigger.
Shot this afternoon after I mounted the new Badger Ordnance 20moa unimount.
Only shot 10 rounds and those were the last 3.
I have yet to adjust the trigger.
Mine shoots 120gn and 140gn ELD really well and 142gn just a little worse.
10 round group yesterday. 42.4 g H4350 and 140 ELD Match.
10 round group yesterday. 42.4 g H4350 and 140 ELD Match.
that'll do pig, that'll do...
Please, and the brass, primer, COAL to round out the info?10 round group yesterday. 42.4 g H4350 and 140 ELD Match.
Hornady once fired brass, CCI BR2, 2.25 CBTO. Indoors.
Anyone else using the TRG brake that comes with it? It’s heavy and ugly to me, but works well without concussion back to the shooter.
I have an APA little bastard but hate that thing outside of comps. I don’t notice it in a competition, but when practicing the concussion to me is horrible.
Also has anyone tried an effective barricade stop? Mag well doesn’t seem it will do well by itself.
I have an APA little bastard but hate that thing outside of comps. I don’t notice it in a competition, but when practicing the concussion to me is horrible.
Also has anyone tried an effective barricade stop? Mag well doesn’t seem it will do well by itself.
has anyone replaced the grip on the Tac A1 yet? what did you replace it with?..
Not yet....waiting for an excuse to justify it in my feeble mind....probably won't take much.
It feels fine, but looks crappy to me.
It'll probably be something from Bravo Company....
Not yet....waiting for an excuse to justify it in my feeble mind....probably won't take much.
It feels fine, but looks crappy to me.
It'll probably be something from Bravo Company....
actually I don't mind the look of thge Tikka grip but I'm not a fan of how it feels. I have a spare Magpul MIAD grip with the different front and rear inserts but I'd actually prefer a more vertical grip.
someone mentioned they were going to try a MPA EVG Grip. I don't know who that was or if they followed up with it but was hoping I'd get some responses like that...
thanks I use that grip on a couple ARs but it won't work in the Tikka without cutting off the curved backstrap.
I have a Magpul MIAD that comes with interchangeable back straps and one is flush on the top. it would work in this case but I'd just like to get suggestions of what other people have tried before I mount that up...
I bought a 20MOA rail from Mountain Tactical. After multiple emails and phone calls I was reassured it would fit. I purchased the Gen2 only to return it. The rail is too long and too low in height. They suggested cutting the rail to fit! I have searched and have not found anyone who makes a 20MOA for the T3X TAC A1 version after multiple purchases/returns from multiple companies. Therefore, I had one made at a machine shop. I will receive it any day and will post more info.
As far as removal of the factory 0MOA rail, I recommend a lot of patience! The factory liberally applied epoxy to the receiver on my unit. The epoxy worked its way into the 6/48 threads and hardened once the rail and screws were installed. I ended up stripping 1 out of the 5 screws. Also, keep in mind there is a 5mm bolt that goes into the front of the factory rail. In order to get access to this bolt, remove the 2 bolts in the forend, and slide it off the barrel. Note: the exoxy was since removed from the rail and receiver in the pictures below.
What measurements you looking for?
Yes sir....that's exactly what I had to do regarding the rail. Apparently none of the companies selling rails for the T3X TAC A1 took the time to do some research!
My apologies....you received your answer. In my application, I used 1.50" rings to mount a 56mm scope with Vortex flip cap. I probably could have used 1.3875" rings, but probably would have to modify or "86" the flip cap.
I just went with a 30MOA Spuhr mount on the factory rail. With an ATACR 7-35 I have plenty of elevation adjustment.
I had a heck of a time getting the rail off my T3x. Can't imagine it being any easier on the TAC and I didn't really want to try.
I had a heck of a time getting the rail off my T3x. Can't imagine it being any easier on the TAC and I didn't really want to try.
Yes sir.....it was a bear to get off. Lots of patience req'd. The factory applied epoxy liberally and it oozed into the screw holes and then hardened once the screws were torqued down. I stripped 1 out of 5 screws! On top of it, the screws were very soft. No wonder the Beretta reps are telling people not to take the rails off!
I’m scared to buy one that is not stainless for this reason! My ctr is SS and had zero epoxy on the threads or anywhere for that matter,it came right off with ease
The CTR I had a pain with was a SS one too. Still took a lot of work and a heat gun.
I used JASCO. Took some time and patience, but the epoxy came off the rail & receiver rather easily. Note: use JASCO in a ventilated area. However, the epoxy in the threads is another story.
Thanks Tikka Tinker. I'm still waiting for the LH Tikka A1 (June). I bought a Spuhr 4602 1.5" and Vortex Razor 4.5-27x56 with Vortex flip cap. Your info gave more confidence there will be clearance with the rail.
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Got mine out today to finish up the last 4 single shots of barrel break in and also the first 2 of 5 3-shot cycles for break in.
All shots are hornady American gunner bulk ammo.
Here is the 4 single shots, at 100 yards. POA was lower right corner of red square. First shot I knew was off. Next three were all in the one hole just left of POA.
First 3-shot group at 100 yards (ignore the MOA calcs as I forgot to change it back from 200 so it halved the calcs)
And then a 3-shot group at 200 yards
I'd say I'm pretty happy with this. I'm not a skilled shooter by any means so I'm looking forward to improving technique even more and bringing these down even smaller.
All shots are hornady American gunner bulk ammo.
Here is the 4 single shots, at 100 yards. POA was lower right corner of red square. First shot I knew was off. Next three were all in the one hole just left of POA.
First 3-shot group at 100 yards (ignore the MOA calcs as I forgot to change it back from 200 so it halved the calcs)
And then a 3-shot group at 200 yards
I'd say I'm pretty happy with this. I'm not a skilled shooter by any means so I'm looking forward to improving technique even more and bringing these down even smaller.
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Not to be critical, well - a little, recommend when someone post a load for the T3x A1, in addition to the powder brand (H4350) , grains (42.x), bullet (Hornady ELD-M), etc., they also state caliber, primer, and case . Some of the information may have been stated earlier but it will help with searches and minimize load development errors. It 's great some of you post pictures and offer assistance/comments but the additional info would go a long way. Thanks.
I just got one in recently to use as a practice rifle. Overall I was impressed, although 2 minor aggravations were that the rifle came w/o any way to mount a bipod and that I have to remove the action from the chassis to adjust the trigger (4#, 9 oz second stage). Three days later I have a MWI M-LOC QD sling adapter and Harris on it and good to go. The more I fondle it the better I like it! Having had Tikkas before, I do like the safety much better on the A1.
I just mounted my custom made 20 MOA rail on my T3X TAC A1. I will post more pictures once scope assembly is complete.
Finished installing my scope on custom made 20 MOA rail.
30mm tube
56mm objective
1.50" rings
19" length end to end of scope
As you can see, there is less than 1/8" of clearance between the front flip cap and the forend rail. One could possibly get away with 1 3/8" rings, but some flip cap modification would be required.
30mm tube
56mm objective
1.50" rings
19" length end to end of scope
As you can see, there is less than 1/8" of clearance between the front flip cap and the forend rail. One could possibly get away with 1 3/8" rings, but some flip cap modification would be required.
I do not have an answer for that. Maybe someone else will know.
I wouldn't recommend that. I'm sure you might find a place that offers the service but I would be very hesitant to try anyone else's loads without having worked them up on my specific rifle. And any place you pay to do it may not have the consistency and attention to detail that you want.
Here in Finland I ordered my left-handed Tikka A1 .308 late February and it just arrived to me. Hopefully they'll arrive shortly there as well. Dealer was guesstimating delivery for May per notification from Sako.
If you're interested: in Finland, where these are manufactured, lowest price for this rifle is € 2090 or around $ 2569. Add $ 105 for a single gun permit (application). For that price, you will get the rifle and one (1) magazine, no extra magazine promos at all, for extra magazines add $ 110 (each). For the price you will not get an M-LOK picatinny snippet either, but M-LOK QD snippet and muzzle brake are included.
If anyone is interested in trading the two stage trigger from a tac a1 for a ctr single stage plus cash from me to you, send me a message. I’m very interested in one for a build.
I’d also be interested in trading a timney two stage for a Tikka for the tac a1 trigger.
I’d also be interested in trading a timney two stage for a Tikka for the tac a1 trigger.
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any more grip swaps? what are y'all using?
has anyone tried the MPA EVG Grip -- https://masterpiecearms.com/shop/mpa-enhanced-vertical-grip/
has anyone tried the MPA EVG Grip -- https://masterpiecearms.com/shop/mpa-enhanced-vertical-grip/
When you ordered your Tikka from grabAgun did it come with the muzzle brake and two mags?
I have a close buddy that bought one for long range shooting. I have fired it 3 times at 350 yds and like it very much! To be clear it is a sub 1/2 moa with prime factory ammo rifle. He has been working up a Hornady 143 eldx and H4350 for a couple months. His goal is to make a standard load for hunting.
He has worked on loads with those two variables to the tune of 300 rounds.
He just can’t narrow it down. I think he should expand his focus, to include other bullets, but he just wants a bucket of good hunting rounds. Understand that his groups are about 1/2 moa.
Anyway, the tikka tac a1 is awesome
He has worked on loads with those two variables to the tune of 300 rounds.
He just can’t narrow it down. I think he should expand his focus, to include other bullets, but he just wants a bucket of good hunting rounds. Understand that his groups are about 1/2 moa.
Anyway, the tikka tac a1 is awesome
The mags are the only problem with the Tikka, I have had issue and the guys this past weekend at our class had issues of feeding with the Tikka Mags
The Tac A1 is nice, but because of the Mags, Get a T3x and change the stock to a chassis that uses AICS Mags. I am swapping my Tac A1 to a Cadex this week... not gonna suffer the mags not feeding anymore
Tikka Barrels and TRG Barrels are the same, both come off the same line.
The Tac A1 is nice, but because of the Mags, Get a T3x and change the stock to a chassis that uses AICS Mags. I am swapping my Tac A1 to a Cadex this week... not gonna suffer the mags not feeding anymore
Tikka Barrels and TRG Barrels are the same, both come off the same line.
I run the BCM grip on all my ARs and now my TacA1. The Mod-0 does not have the backstrap and bolts right up to the Tikka.
these are more vertical than typical grips, correct?
is there different ones for AR15 and AR10? which did you use?..
They are more vertical than a Magpul MOE or MIAD grips. Not 90 degrees like the grip on the Magpul Chassis for instance. I have just become used to it running it on my 5.56 SPRish build, my 7.62 OBR and all training ARs. To me it's a consistency and familiarity thing. If all my rifles have the same grip, it's less for me to adjust (in myself) if I go from one to the other. The Tikka is my first and only bolt gun. All my shooting "knowledge" has been acquired on ARs. Using the same grip everywhere, makes it easier for me.
The AR15 and AR10 accept the same grips.
This is the one I have on my Tikka:
https://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-GUN-FIGHTER-s-Grip-GFG-Mod-0-Black-p/bcm-gfg-mod-0-blk.htm
I use the Mod-1 on guns that allow for the backstrap.
thanks, I'll give that a try. in fact, I may already have one, I need to check...
MIAD Grips come in 2 types - 1 and 2. I have the TYPE 2 Kit on my AR10 which uses taller backstraps for optimized fit with certain 7.62x51 receivers such as the Armalite AR-10A/B/T, DPMS LR308, KAC SR25, LaRue OBR, LMT .308 MWS, Palmetto PA10, and S&W M&P10.
I am selling the remainder of the 20 MOA rails I have left. $240 shipped to lower 48. Send me a PM if interested.
Note: these will only fit the TAC A1 model.
