I use a heaping tablespoon (the kind you eat with not the measuring scoop) of Palmolive Original to .7cc of Lemishine (Lee .7cc dipper) to 1gal of water in a Thumler Model B.
- Thread starter SinCityJets
- Start date
Just regular tap water? Do you have good tap water where you live, or a softener?
I don't think this is what causes cold welding - think it's galvanic corrosion between the brass and copper
Also - for anyone using Lemishine, pretty sure it's just Straight Citric Acid Powder, which is probably cheaper, I know I've gotten it off Amazon. Sometimes used by backcountry hunters to spray on meat they've just de-boned to lower the PH, help get a crust, prevent bacteria growth, etc.
I’ve been processing my brass this way for a while and have been super happy:
1. Deprime
2. Wet tumble w/ SS pins and BoreTech case cleaner
3. Pour ALL the brass in a towel, grab the ends (hammock style) and roll the brass to remove the majority of the water
4. Vibratory tumble with white rice (30 min) to completely dry
5. Anneal
Once I’ve completed all of my sizing, trimming, turning processes…
6. Sonic cleaner w/ BoreTech case cleaner to remove ALL case lube
7. Repeat step #3
8. Repeat step #4
9. Prime
10. Neolube 2 necks and aloe to completely dry
11. Charge
12. Seat
It really didn’t seem obsessive until I wrote it all down…
1. Deprime
2. Wet tumble w/ SS pins and BoreTech case cleaner
3. Pour ALL the brass in a towel, grab the ends (hammock style) and roll the brass to remove the majority of the water
4. Vibratory tumble with white rice (30 min) to completely dry
5. Anneal
Once I’ve completed all of my sizing, trimming, turning processes…
6. Sonic cleaner w/ BoreTech case cleaner to remove ALL case lube
7. Repeat step #3
8. Repeat step #4
9. Prime
10. Neolube 2 necks and aloe to completely dry
11. Charge
12. Seat
It really didn’t seem obsessive until I wrote it all down…
Obsessive . . . nahhh, none of us are obsessive.
I do feel you should do your annealing before your step #2. That way you get that abrasive oxidation layer off so it doesn't have any way to rub on he inside of your sizing dies (an issue, even though you may have plenty of lube in that area).
I rarely wet tumble, but when I do I simply use a heat gun to heat up my brass that's laid out on a towel. The water inside the cases evaporates rather quickly due to the heated cases; takes me about 10 minutes to do that.
I regularly us medium rice in my dry tumbler to remove the lube I use (Imperial Sizing Wax) and as a results, I don't need any lube in the necks for seating.
To me, you simply appear to be putting way more effort than needs be. It took me a little while to refine my process. Maybe you should too???
old thread bump... wow lol
i have never lubed a case neck or bullet in 10 years of reloading
and now i know why some peoples look like factory round out of box! i tumble for sure, but my brass never looks out of box new and i do not care of it doesn't
i have never lubed a case neck or bullet in 10 years of reloading
and now i know why some peoples look like factory round out of box! i tumble for sure, but my brass never looks out of box new and i do not care of it doesn't
Pondering on getting a mandrel set up with 3 different size mandrels for 3 different cases 308, 6 & 6.5 Cm's. Got frustrated with every on line site using some form of AI in their search feature, type in "mandrel die" and you get every "Fn" die they have.
So, where to look for 1 die body and 3 different size mandrels ?
So, where to look for 1 die body and 3 different size mandrels ?
Worth considering for sure.Obsessive . . . nahhh, none of us are obsessive.
I do feel you should do your annealing before your step #2. That way you get that abrasive oxidation layer off so it doesn't have any way to rub on he inside of your sizing dies (an issue, even though you may have plenty of lube in that area).
I rarely wet tumble, but when I do I simply use a heat gun to heat up my brass that's laid out on a towel. The water inside the cases evaporates rather quickly due to the heated cases; takes me about 10 minutes to do that.
I regularly us medium rice in my dry tumbler to remove the lube I use (Imperial Sizing Wax) and as a results, I don't need any lube in the necks for seating.
To me, you simply appear to be putting way more effort than needs be. It took me a little while to refine my process. Maybe you should too???
KM and mighty armory both have this.
Try these guys. Die body and either single mandrel or they sell caliber specific kits also. Good product IMO.
Expander Die Body
Expander Die Body Introducing the much anticipated Generation X Expander Die Body with viewing window! Set up of an expander die has not been easier! The viewing window allows the user to set the die to allow for optimal mandrel use without “bottoming out”. Machined out of 7075 Aluminum and...
21stcenturyinnovation.com 
Sinclair mandrell die and the mandrells you need brownells should have them.
I even run my 223 ar brass through them.
Look into the porter precision products expander.It uses er11 collets and pin gages.It’s a great design that’s well machined ,simple and effective.Collets and pin gages can be purchased thru them or eBay and come in endless sizes and tolerances relatively cheap
